garycrist

The funnies things during that time, was run-on. Shut the key off, go inside and eat

come back out and the car was still running. I guess it was one of those FREE options.

At least it cut down on starter replacement.

When I moved to Cali one could not De-carbon them like we used to. I once had a big block

Ford that ran-on no matter what I did. I even set the idle down to about 400ish RPM. It would still

run-on, with the best solution to shut it down in Drive, most of the time!

Fist look at the car battery. A simple red wire attached to the + terminal. (EASY)

Next pull the fuse cover above your left knee. Give a peek to see if there is a device there.

It will be piggy-backed to the OBD2 port. While you are there, take a flashlight and inspect the

OBD2 port for an extra small wire that looks out of place. If you find a small encased wire set coming

from the OBD2 port trace it to a tracker.

Let me know if you need more....

Gary

I have been a Ford guy since my 1st. car a burgundy  63, I've been hooked. When I worked at a L/M

dealer in the mid 70's when all of the glob-on emission were added. Gas mileage became terrible, especially

in 385 series engines or 429s and 460s. Part of the "Ford approved service procedure" aka. warranty. (I get paid)

was to put on a 1/10 gallon  glass jug that attached to the driver's rolled down window and the window channel.

I twisted a valve and it filled up the container to a measured mark. It went to the carb and when that jug went empty

the car died. What a terrible job, driving in an air-conditioned Lincoln during the Summer!

From that experience I have always beat everyone in their own vehicle on gas mileage. 

Oh yes, back to the big blocks. As we were out in the country, we would take them out and pour

1/2 to 1 gallon of ATF through the carb to de-carbon them. What a cloud it would make, even better that

a C-4 modulator rupturing! After driving them around for a bit, they would clear up and not ping so bad

with the crummy fuel we had back the,

3d. Party BOA. Used. The dealers now use these devices to track the customers. Only the

GPS markers and cellphone bursts. None were connected to kill the car. The excuse is for

oil-change reminders and a litany of other excuses.

One was Lojack the other was IKON Technologies.  They tried to up me by $5600 over the leader price! 🤣

The Lojack wiring was fresh and the box had no dust it was connected directly to the battery with only the hot and ground.

The IKON was plugged into the OBD2 port with a jumper wire into the dash. None of the extra functions were hooked-up

thus  some of the wires were clipped to the Lojack. I believe the IKON is only powered by the OBD2 port.

I worked in dealerships for years. I've seen many a trick these guys do. Most of them will lie, cheat and even rape their mothers

for a sale. The odds are with them too for the most part! IIRC the average buyer only visits less than 2 dealers for a purchase!

It was WE IN THE BACK that received holy hell because the vehicle did not do what the salesman said.

https://ikontechnologies.com/

Also, coke the turbos! Even my wife lets it idle for 2 minutes to cool down and un-spool the turbos.

It would show a <CHECK PARKING AID>. Then we would reset.

I've watched several people bring in hand written contemporaneous notebooks

of all things that went into their cars, even fill-ups with mileage notations.

Those things were GOLD back then for resale rather than the auction. Usually

they were cleaner no matter the odometer. I watched a dealer drop $10,000 off

a Shelby 500 after the deal was set, just because he saw the log-book the customer

was going to take with him!

After replacing the speaker it is FIXED. IIRC Forescan read the failure as the "Parking Aid Speaker".

As shown in the above pictures, the speaker the black round disc in the bottom, is held in by 2

push pins. They will be pried from the body with one's pry bars(s). The opening is big enough

to fit my 72 YO hands between the panel and body. If one drops the speaker, fear not as the wire

holding the speaker is attached the the body so it will not drop far.

There is a small push tab to depress to remove the wiring harness from the speaker. Install

the new speaker into the speaker socket. If one desires the speaker may be reattached or stuff

behind the panel away from the seat belt.

FIXED! It took 10-15 minutes and I am slow.

GL OM

Gary

DE KI6FG

I had that on my 08 but, it was the front I must have misread. I ended up

replacing the front squirters. I have sometimes in the past, passed a small

piece of stripped copper wire laying around into the holes while someone

applies the washer.. Sometimes build up or gunk gets moved up and plugs the jets.

Probably the pump if all of the fuses are good. If the pump, then the front inner fender cover will

get to be removed. Not too bad of a job with a clip puller

Someone around you might have a fob clone machine. Keep

those fobs protected with a Faraday Device or RF proof device.

Examples are wrapped tightly Al foil or a neat little RF proof pouch.

Once into the car, they can clone a key via OBD2 port.

Yes I'd love to do Ortega with this beast! Then 39, 17 @ Santa Cruz. I am only

on the 3rd. payment so I've got to be a little easy. Besides the bride was with me. ha ha

We have a little twisty here in Anna Texas. I always like driving my 92 Gt Mustang down

that little road. Eibach springs and sway-bars and 275 17s, Cobra Brake Kit. Needless

to say it will go around a corner, stiffly. I would never push the 08 Edge Limited that hard.

Now with the 22 ST even the wife does not grab hold of the dash, grab handles etc.

She even stated she like it and feels safer (smoother Ride) than the 'Stang. Active stability

and roll control kicks in and one can feel the brakes helping steer around a corner. Next time

I'll try Sport mode. The twisty road is 455 going west of 75 in Anna... Have fun.

@enigma-2 That's a good one !!🤗🤣

I don't care what you call me.

Just don't call me late to dinner!😊

Thank you much for the tip. I had tracked the problem down a long time ago.

I just did not know where the speaker was exactly and I was too lazy to

tear the trim panel out.

Also for someone else in the future.

Now that I found it a new part will be put in in no time!

G

Here is how to "Flat Rate " job or in civilian talk, this is how we can beat the clock!

This is the view of the Left Rear quarter Panel where the Parking Aid Speaker is located.

We will see it's location just below and to the rear of the seat belt entrance into the panel.

Looking at the trim panel, separate the trim from the rubber seal.

Peeling back the Quarter Panel the Speaker to be replaced is now visable.

Prop the panel and replace and reinsert the panel into the rubber trim.

Thank you very much! I have looked here and all over to no avail!

Gary

DE KI6FG

I have searched till my finger are blue to find where the Parking Aid Speaker is located in a

2008 Ford Edge Limited.

Thank You in advance.

Thank You very much for the reply. I just purchased one on your recommendation!

I know how much sub-frame connectors and a plate of steel under the rear seat

to tie them together on my Fox Mustang do!

When I jacked up the ST I found out how much they twist.

Thank You @gainesb2003

Be proud of that worn out Ford logo! The BMW guys keep them that way as

a badge of ownership duration. My '08 Edge Limited is far worse and I am proud

of all 210K miles we have had "her"!

The reason I post about LSPI, was during a conversation with a member,

he thought that the ECM was controlling the timing hence no LSPI. 

Yes I am quite aware of micro-welding of metal and oil particles contributing

to the phenomena too.

Thank You very much @todd92!

I see you purchased a Carfield Enterprise front strut bar. How hard are they to install?

You are absolutely right about wrench turners! The problem is we are in the back and have no control 

of the thieves and liars way up front! Here is how the game is played, as the customer as well as the technition

get the wienie in the end. I was a participant when Mazda started building their "Flat-Rate Book" or how much

we could "flag" back in '72. We could only use hand tool, no air powered. WE had to clock-in and clock-out for

every job we did. They then averaged those jobs and then cut the hell out of the time!!

The flat-rate books were all  built around hand tools no air power. So if a technician invested in air tools, one

could beat the book most of the time. Air tools back then were expensive. It was about $100ish for a 3/8 air ratchet

and about $150-$200 for a good 1/2 impact gun. That would be about $750 for the air ratchet and $1000 to $1500

for the impact gun in today's dollars! Back then my house was red with a Snap-On plaque for an address!

Technicians/Mechanics just like every other profession, only have so many, for lack of a better term, artists or people

with what it takes! Just like Doctors, 50% of all Doctors graduated in the lower %50 of the class! I hate to say this but,

dealerships are where a lot of the new  guys go to PRACTICE on YOUR car but, one never winces when Doctors practice

on US.

In a recent conversation here about oil catch cans and their value it appears there is a

confusion between Low Speed Pre-Ignition and detonation and or pinging. Sure we have

knock sensors and in conjunction with the ECM, control the timing ot achieve optimal timing

just short of detonation.

Pinging we experienced with carbs, port injection or where fuel was present in the intake path,

was caused by hot spots or combustion chamber deposits aside from fuel quality. With the new

Direct Injection DI engines most pinging is eliminated because of prcise fuel injection timing so that

these engines are bordering on a Diesel cycle rather than Otto cycle.

DI Engines (DIE) are like a Honda  Stratified system without the extra combustion chamber and

attending valve or some diesels with a per-combustion chamber . Instead, a rich patterned spray surrounds

the spark plug with a rich enough mixture to initiate combustion then spark. Power is achieved by duration

of spray measured in pulse and duration. As one can tell on a DIE this is where the computer can alter timing to alleviate pinging.

Now to the meat of this post LSPI or Low Speed Pre-Ignition. This animal is different and the computer

can not control it! Microscopic oil droplets in the intake path from blow-by is one culprit. The other, it

appears is the oil itself and it's additives as well as gasoline dilution of the residual oil film on the cylinder walls.

Some oil and now broken down oil (sludge) is now trapped between the top ring and top of the piston. This gunk

has a lower octane than the fuel and is one of the sources LSPI.

LSPI situations arise on cold engines or not up to operating temperature, engines that have been idling for a period

of time like in traffic. So as one may deduce it takes time to burn off the residual oil before applying a bunch of load

aka. boost.