garycrist

Pull the pan, weld 2 locator studs and use the old plastic pick-up. Be sure to measure pan to oil pump for fitment. Also Moroso Coyote Gen3 might be a thought for "raw" material to engineer a pick-up. (Moroso catalog page number 18) Looking at the pics of the 2 pans and estimating PU IDs the plastic PU ID (inner diameter) I guestimate it to be .9 inches while the Al PU looks to be about .75 ID.While the slot Looks to be .75X.75 MATH for area of openings. All measurements are by guesstimation based on the pics supplied above. Formula for area of circle Pi RXR. Formula for Al pan PU LXH Stock .9X.9X 3.14=2.54 SQ inches. Al Pan .75x.75 x3.14=1.77 SQ inches Slot for oil pickup .75x.75=.5625 SQ inches Even if the slot was 1 inch wide and 1 inch tall, one still can't pull enough oil. Also I do not think one can separate the stock plastic pick-up from the pan.

Pull the pan and cut a new slot in the rear of the pick-up. At the very least debur the entry hole and hog it out to make up for the volume loss due to a smaller feed hole diameter in the Al pan.

It is called "Radial Tire Pull". Just as @RPGR90s stated. If it still exists look up Firestone 500 problems. Those were replaced with almost as bad Firestone 721. Luckily, we don't see as much as in the early days switch to radials. Also fewer flats! And never forget the TPC radial problems good old GM.

How far worn are the tires? A lot of them will become more noisy as they wear. I have chased wheel bearing and tire whine and I feel your pain. As a side note, when they used to ship cars by train, they would cinch them tight with chains. All of the pressure was put on sometimes 1 roller of a bearing set. The race would sometimes pick-up a small dent and the roller a flat spot. Those were only found by replacement.

I remember Fiat 128 FWD. Hit the corner hard enough and the inside rear wheel would come off the ground.

Goodyear Gatorbacks. 285/35-22s

I thought the RDUs were basically the same. With a coupler bolted to about a 7.5 inch differential. Please set me straight!

When the "Big Wigs" @ Gm fought bankrupcy a few years ago, one of the "Bean Counters' tried to kill the Corvette line. That was until they found out sales of Corvette parts far outstrip car sales IIRC adding$100 or more million per year PROFIT. Thank you, I have edited the original post for clarity. Did you ever get to stay up for "Route 66"? If I could make it, "Sea Hunt" was on after that.

Ford sells NEW VEHICLES!!!! They only carry repair parts because of Federal Laws. (except for Corvette) About that differential, of all of the research and watching videos of failures, the front pinion bearing set sucks! Back in the past, who cared about a few sorry tenths of a mile to the gallon to a $3000 repair bill. There are NO CLUTCHES in the rear differential. BTW there are 2, that's right, TWO systems piggybacked together to make it work. The viscous clutch pack w/electro-magnet (prelubed ) bolted to a differential with a haploid gear set, no clutches. Traction control is by brake application on the spinning wheel. (no limited slip) Every time one saw heavy duty applications with premature failure usually a heavier oil did the trick like 75W-140. Towing back then was HD. I think the bearings are overheated and killing the oil. After looking looking at the bearing failure, some bastard engineer got a holiday trip to (fill in the blank) for that bearing set-up. So the B.S. about the clutches requiring some Houdini Magic Snake Oil that comes from a hidden valley with magical oiling powers sound like something a MFG would do. Several of the mfg.s are eating it for their sorry products. Gm on 6.2s just use heavier oil because an engineer said we could skip a final crankshaft polishing. "See how much money we saved and bonuses we earned" said those folks.

I used to custom install radios/stereos. I am also left handed (Lefties are better processing stereo/ music or hear it better). I can tell stories about me testing some theories on my installs. I snicker about all of the speaker replacements as I know most of them are going to go even deafer than they are today as all they worry about VOLUME. I've intentionally cross wired and cross polarized speakers and most will just "turn it up louder"! For a Christmas my sons put a new stereo with all the bell and whistles as a present. When finished, they came to show what they had done. Upon turning the radio on, it sounded like CRAP. Several of the speakers were wired backwards and it was terrible. I asked a few questions and sure enough they learned a few lessons on polarity. After finding the problem and this time noting the wiring diagram, they got it right. I could tell but they really could not. I agree with you @STBEAST these are fairly nice systems. Now about 50 to 100 pounds of insulation/ undercoating that has been removed by the factories for CAFE Standards, if reinstalled would do wonders for sound quality!

Are you sure it is not from the drain plug? Clean it off with some Brakleen and monitor.

I've wondered about running 75-140 with some friction modifiers. (like in a 8.8 LSD) It should quiet down the chatter some by making the fluid slippier. In looking at the failures so far. One thing is the bearing failures due to overworked thin fluids. Then as you stated above clutch failure. All of this for fuel economy?

The best way to search is not here, but at your preferred search + edge forum. Glad you got it fixed.

Hey @22CarbGrayElite, look at Corvette front brake air ducts. They look like they can be attached to the frame rail and feed the rotors with a short piece of flex duct. Like you said and I have also experienced, and, until you have done it you can't imagine the extra stopping power nor the satisfaction you did it yourself.

Wait till you put together Fox Mustang Cobra brakes scrounged from junk yard parts. I can remember pulling axles out of 2 different Ford Aerostar vans. The car stopped after that upgrade.

Everyone should be aware of this memo from Ford. https://fordcrashparts.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Ford_Glass_Replacement_Postion-Statement_FNL_2022.pdf

This reminds me of servicing the CV joints on my '69 VW..😉 I think I still have the 12 point Snap-On fall off socket.

Go over to Summit Racing and plug in your car info and go from there...

An old trick was to paint the link or tooth at each timing mark. Now you know how many links/teeth between cam marks ( used to have to align the distributor/oil pump also)and pre-mark the new chain/belt.

You might try.... https://www.sonnax.com/transmission

2008 Limited with 215K miles and I changed the antifreeze once a few years ago. Still running fine with no problems.

This might give you a clue but, it looks like they buried it down low.

The lighter wheels were an aid in handling. AKA road racing. It does this by reducing unsprung weight, so the suspension follows the irregular road surfaces better. Now if you want to go around corners.........

Did you clean the negative battery terminals down to clean copper and lead? For the last 50+ years, the 1st. thing I've asked the FORD client, "Have you cleaned the terminals"etc.

For a squishy ride try 235/70-17s or 245/65-17s depending on wheel width. A wider tire on a narrower rim will give a softer ride than a narrow tire on a wide rim within reason! But, according to the chart below, the wheels are only 7.5 inches wide or unfit for your needs. https://www.wheel-size.com/size/ford/mustang/2018/ The best you might do is 18 inch wheels. https://www.wheel-size.com/size/ford/edge/2018/#generation-ii-facelift-2018-2024 Check local wrecking yards too.