chefduane

Did a simple drain and refill on the RDU with Valvoline 80w-90 Hi-Performance gear lube. Used the transfer pump method and then had a bottle pump that fit on the new bottle. Took about an hour including running to the store. The bottle said "Limited Slip" on it and I though I had gotten the wrong lube, but doing some research I determined that LSD gear lube is ok in the Edge RDU. Apparently, you can use LSD lube in a non-LSD rear end, but if you have an LSD differential you MUST use LSD lube and a friction modifier if required.

At any rate, I have now drained/refilled/replaced all fluids in the car since I bought it in Sept. Coolant, oil&filter, ATF, PS fluid, brake fluid, and RDU with premium fluids and full synth whenever possible. PTU is tomorrow in my local shop. I know all this is probably overkill but I just like to 'benchmark' a used car whenever I purchase one. Along with new pads & rotors, AEM DryFlo airfilter, K&N cabin filter, and painting the grill tux black, I think I'm good to go. That is, of course, until I find something else to do! Maybe a MAF cleaning, shocks and struts... nitrogen tire fill??

Read the whole thread and it will explain everything. But, yes you can install the stock OEM side rails with a BAMR but not the crossbars as they are too low to allow the roof to open. There are a few aftermarket options for cross bars that can be used with the side rails.

hmm.. now I'm not sure. I guess just fill it till it starts to puke out the fill hole.

EDIT: I checked a Haynes Manual I have (mostly useless, I know..) and it says 18 ounces. So I guess 18 it is. Don't the tech writers who put together the Owner's Manual check this stuff??

I know I am responding to a thread that was last active 1.5 years ago but....

If there is anyone who is currently interested in trading roof rails for the inserts, let me know. I will do this.

''...recommended 18 oz."

Better check that. I think the total amount of 75w-140 is only 12oz for the PTU.

Odd that it is only in reverse. I was thinking maybe a caliper issue but why only in reverse? Have you tried jacking the front of the vehicle up and spinning one of the wheels to see if you can replicate the sound while you are looking at it?

I just put 4 x pads and rotors on my '11 with no issues. AutoAnything had a sale on PowerStop 4 x pads and rotors direct OEM replacement. You might check them out. I would suggest doing the rotors also since the additional cost is marginal and you're going to have everything apart anyway.

But, have you determined that it IS the brakes making this noise and perhaps not a drivetrain issue? That might warrant investigation also.

I'd be interested to hear how this turns out.

Got the rear brakes done today. Everything went pretty smoothly other than the *!@$%# PITA set screw on the rotor. Neither would budge with my impact wrench or a breaker bar. I actually stripped the first one with the torx #30. I had to drill it out. And the other side I didn't even attempt to remove it, I just drilled it. Wasn't really that hard, just needed to make sure I didn't penetrate anything on the back side. Many thanks to MacT for his instructional videos, especially the one about the Low Freq Noise Dampener.

I also took a look at the exhaust tips while I was under there. They are welded on. I'm not going to mess with them. I don't need black exhaust tips bad enough to cut them off and weld on new ones. Maybe I'll paint them with hi-temp black, but for the time being I'll live with the chrome.

Yeah, my concern is screw mounts into the plastic. They don't seem like they'd last in the long haul. If there good way to make them more secure and permanent, I'd be on this in a minute.

Did front brakes today. Rears are tomorrow. Used the PowerStop KOE5254 4 Wheel pads+rotors kit from AutoAnything. With misc materials and such it came to $253.90. A little less once I take the rotors to a recycler, usually get a few buck for each one. I did buy a rear caliper compression tool (the little cube with the notches) as I just didn't feel like running back and forth to AutoZone with the rental kit. The car is a DD about 60/40 street/highway so the PowerStop OEM replacement kit should be just fine. No real heavy duty hauling or towing. Planning a trip from Dallas to Knoxville next month (1700mi round trip) and wanted to get them done. Had about 70k on the showroom set so not too bad out of the OEMs.

Besides, baby gotta' have new shoes!

Still want to do black exhaust tips and roof rails.

..almost 100 views with no feedback or comments? ...oh well.

After reading most of the threads about the POS cargo cover that Ford offers (and buying then returning one) and then searching around a good bit, I finally found this: "Cargo Cover Retractable for 2011 Ford Edge Black by Kongka" - (I'd link it but for some reason my cut/paste capabilities have become non-functional. Just search amazon for that title.) At any rate, it seems to be exactly what I and MANY others have been looking for. It does require drilling some holes for the mounts but I really wouldn't mind that if it turned out to be an actual functional and usable retractable cargo cover. (Something that apparently Ford could not figure out.) And I personally don't care about the rear seat not reclining issue as its just my wife and I, and after 24 years of marriage and despite my considerable persuasion skills she seldom wants to get into the back seat anymore.

Anybody actually have one of these? Seen one? I like to get some comments on the listing before I bite the bullet. Thanks for any feedback!

So there is NO way to determine the trans fluid level AT ALL? Is there at lease some type of sensor with a dash indicator to let one know when/if the fluid gets low?

Not even a sight glass?? Heh heh.

Not any more:

"..but this time Ford has dumped hi-test in the terminal-velocity discussion by claiming a 200-mph top speed for the 2013 GT500. In fact, 202 mph, supposedly observed on a test run at the circular 7.8-mile circular Nardo Ring in southern Italy."

Source: Car and Driver - Flat Out! We Gun for 200 MPH in the 2013 Ford Mustang Shelby GT500. August 2012 Issue.

The article does say that 2011 and earlier GT500's had limiters at 155 but that their test driver was able to get the 2013 to 189+change but not quite to 190. Pretty damn fast! In a previous career I drove a 1998 Olds Alero Indy Pace Car around the Indy 500 at 100mph (track official said that was max allowed for a civilian driver) and that was fast enough for me! Got to do 5 laps - one of the best driving days I've ever had!!

My Goodyear Eagle RS-A's are Speed Rated H - 130mph.

Edit: Just did some checking... automobile-catalog.com/professcars estimates 136mph top speed with 4235lbs curb weight, full fuel tank, and 200lbs load theoretical top speed without governor.

MacT, thanks for the followup. Do you recall what size the torx was in the rotor? I have a few torx but not a whole set and want to make sure I have it before I start pulling off wheels! And thanks much for your instructional vids, I've used a few tips from them and I got an AEM Filter Minder and installed it on the airbox. I dig that.

Am I correct in assuming that the torx screw in the rotor doesn't actually do anything? Why take it out then? BTW, what size is it? I'm about to do 4x pads and rotors on my Edge and from what I can gather, the Powerstop rotors do not have the torx screw in it. I figure I can just take the old rotor off and toss it, and put the new rotor on and not have to worry about any torx bolt.

PS: I don't really trash the rotors. I take them to recycler in town that will give you a few bucks for them. But I do regularly pollute our pristine Texas air with wafting clouds of smoke from a fine Don Rafael 7x50 Churchill.

If you will be doing your own oil changes, I strongly suggest getting a Fumoto Qwik Valve. Google it. I had one on my Explorer and just put one on my '11 Edge. I agree with the location of the oil filter. And with the Qwik Valve installed, oil changes are a snap. Most of the time is taken pouring the new oil into the engine.

And I am not a spokesperson or employee of Fumoto Inc, But I did grow up in Fullerton, just up the road a but from Irvine. I'm a Texan now, tho!

Once you get the caliper off and up out of the way (2 bolts), you need to take off the caliper bracket that holds the pads (also 2 bolts). Once that is off the rotor should come right off the hub - nothing holding it on other than perhaps rust or corrosion. Mact has a real nice brake vid on utoob, just google something like '2013 Ford Edge SEL brake job" and you get all kinds of tutorials. If the rotor is rusted to the hub, a few smacks with a BFH should do it. (I think Mact actually has to do that in one of his vids.) Let us know how it goes.

Coincidentally, I just did front brakes (pads+rotors) today on my wife's '06 Trailblazer. Rears are tomorrow.

If you are not self employed, check with your employer about any special deals they may have with Ford. I get Ford X-Plan pricing through my employer. Next time I buy new I x-plan to use it. heh. Also, if you are a member of a credit union you might check with them about special pricing or financing options. Invoice pricing is all over the net. Just google it. I think Ford.com has a configurator so you can get specific about the particular vehicle you want. Do that, then get invoice pricing, and walk in to a dealer and see if they have what you want on the lot. If they do, offer them a 5 over deal on the spot and see what they say. If not, see what available through a dealer trade. Let the games begin!

45k seems a little low for needing brakes but a lot depends upon your style of driving. I usually replace rotors when replacing pads although you might opt for machining/turning them. Just check the thickness with a mic or caliper to determine if they are within spec. (I don't know the spec - someone might chime in.)

Rotors should come right off, but I see you are in Maryland. I assume your DOT salts the roads up there so they might be seized/rusted to the hubs. In that case you might need a BFH.

Did oil change today, first one I've done. OMFG!!! The tech must have put the drain bolt on with an air wrench!! Surprised they didn't crack the case. Would not budge with a ratchet and was afraid I might round the bolt. Then I used a regular 15mm box end.. not a chance. I thought I was going to have to put a piece of pipe on the end of the wrench to get some more leverage, or even break out my air wrench. Finally I used a long reach box end and with one mighty pull I was able to get it to turn a bit. Then with all I had, I finally loosened it up. Man, I like to smack the guy that did that! I bought the car at a Lexus dealer and I have half a mind to go back and complain! Prolly do no good.

At any rate, I used Mobil-1 5w-20 Hi-Mileage full synth and a Mobil-1 Extended Performance filter. Reset the OLM to 50% as I intend to go 5000 mile intervals. Also, I installed a Fumoto Qwik Valve to make things a bit easier next time I do an oil change.

That is all - beer and cigar time now.

I looked at that but I'd like to retain the seat back flat across, and the ability to fold the center piece down so back seat drivers.. err.. passengers.. can still make use of the cup holders. Dunno' what I'm going to do on this one. I really don't want to experiment with removing the headrest as I know it will mean destroying it. Hmph.

...only if you intend to over pack you car full of stuff, put a kayak up top, take your doors off, and run you and your family into a concrete barrier at 50 mph.

But I get your point.

I second what Tacyon said. Especially about the dog.

Heh Heh. Sorry for the unintentional misdirection. I'm actually with IWoPCWADTOBJ's. International World of Professional Chefs Who Also Do Their Own Brake Jobs. Kinda' wordy but catchy, eh?