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inthefuture1955

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  1. Hi, There are flasher units that won't hyperflash with LED's, but UNFORTUNATELY, Ford no longer uses flashers, it is controlled by the Body Control Unit (it also controls the power up sequence) which is located behind the inside fuse block. The Edge has never had a separate flasher.
  2. Hi, I didn't like the idea of changing settings in the OBD, so I chose to go with Ballast Resistors also. I had no problems with 3157A Canbus-compatible LED's in the rear, but when I put 3157A/W LED Switchbacks in front though, it started hypeflashing, so I added 1 resistor on each side and that resolved the issue. I used Artic Silver Thermal Epoxy (Amazon) to secure each in place to a flat location on the metal of the inner fender well. Wipe the surface with denatured alcohol before applying the epoxy. They need to be held in place for about 5 minutes before the epoxy sets up.The epoxy contains silver to aid heat flow from the resistor to the fender well. The resistors are never on continuously for long enough to become hotter than the sheet metal they are epoxied to. The paint on the fender well will not block the heat flow into the sheet metal and will not be damaged by the heat from the resistors. The resisters themselves are 50 Watts, about the same draw as a standard 3157A incandescent bulb. There is no mechanical or thermal reason not to use resistors if you prefer not to change settings in the OBD system (like me). If you prefer to change settings in the OBD, that is also a suitable option. Whichever you prefer. I have pretty much the entire DriveBright set of lights in my 2013 SEL, starting with the Shadow Black Soprt tail light set http://drivebright.com/home/shop/ford-edge-sport-led-tail-light-set-shadow-black-w-smoked-lens-2011-2014-sale-30-off/. I highly recommend the DriveBright line. 2013 Edge SEL AWD, Mineral Gray, DriveBright LED Headlights, DriveBright Shadow Black Sport taillights, DriveBright A/W Lower Valance lights, DriveBright Puddle Lamps, 3157A LED rear lamps, 5000K LED reverse lamps, 3157A/W LED Switchback front lamps and 5000K LED license plate lamps.
  3. I have a 2013 Edge with these. There are well worth the price. I put in LED 3157A and 5000K backup lamps in to complete the set up. These replacement units have the factory look to them. These pretty much match the look of the 2016+ Explorer tail light with the halo-style parking lamps. I also installed the front lower valance modules. They change from 5000K to amber with the turn signal. I also installed 3157A/W Switchbacks. My headlights are 5000K LED's and I replaced the Puddle Lamps with Drive Bright LED modules. I have 2 friends with Edges. One has already installed these in his 2007 and my other is ordering a pair for his 2009. They decided to order them after seeing mine. I also show them to every Edge owner I meet and they always want the company information. I highly recommend the Drive Bright product line for any '07-'14 Edge. 2013 Mineral Gray SEL, LED exterior lamps, ConsoleVault, Ford Remote Start
  4. I hope this does not leave members feeling at all insulred. It's not my intent. The original poster started stating that he wanted to install 6000 Kelvin LED's. In reading the replies, I saw no mention of the temperature of these LED's DON'T install LED's of that temperature, please. Here's why: The higher the Kelvin index (temperature) is, the greater the UV emitted. An index that high is very piercing. I believe most of those here have experienced that! I don't want to do that to other drivers. And it may seem otherwise, but the higher the K, the lower the light that the human eye can see. Part of the heat issue is that as the temperature index goes up, so does the heat per lumen emitted.(K*L [with some factoring for bulb type and resistor load present]) The factory index is 3400 K, as numerous studies have shown that this is the center of the visible (white) light that is perceptible by the human eye, no UV is present at that temperature index. Philips make 3400 K LED bulbs for that reason. If you do want to go to a higher temperature index, don't go above 5000 K; most brands are available in that temperature index. As far as lumens go, go as high as you can, but allow for heat dissipation, as has already been discussed. The greater the volume of light, the greater the heat. I just installed switchback LED turn signals and the lumens for those is higher than the original headlights. The temperature index is 4500 K, so very little UV is present. Name brand bulbs are around $30 and a pair of Phillips resistors (to prevent hyper-flash) are about the same. As for me, I'd like to go with with the Phillips 3400 K bulbs, but heat dissipation is an issue I'm still considering. I hope you will not go above 5000 K, if you insist on going above 3400 K. 6000 K is completely unnecessary. (Here something to consider: most people buy "warm white" LED bulbs for use in the home and these are 3400 K. Yet everyone wants to install 5000 [and higher]. Keep that in mind.)
  5. Nick said "As long as you dont use LED headlight bulbs you will be good" I had planned to use those, so I'm interested to know what issues are created by using LED headlights. I know that Phillips makes 3400 Kelvin (standard headlight color index). Again, I mention a brand name as those I'm aware of and for items this important, I refuse to use no-name one. A big hazard is created using them. For headlights, 5000 Kelvin emit too much UV. I think most members have experience passing cars with such headlights. I want to avoid this if at all possible and it can be difficult to avoid when using HID's. What issues are created using LED headlights. Any information about this would be very helpful. Thanks in advance.
  6. As a said, semantics. I just know that at least one company (DriveBright) calls them DRL's (I already knew what the initials stand for [that you felt it necessary to explain initials to me came across as a bit insulting]). I know of other people that call them that. You define them as you choose, I'll define them as I do. Whatever. If I'm using it the wrong way, fine, I don't particularly care. Let's not start a flame war over this. This issue of discussion wis installing resistors to stop hyper-flash when you switch to LED's, switchbacks or standard amber (no white). Other members said that hyper-flash can be prevented using FORscan, which, for those members that know about connecting a laptop to the car is probably a nice idea as alternative to installiang resistors. I have a 10 inch Tab that I use as my laptop, and I don't want to know about changing computer code in 2 1/2-ton projectile. I go back to carburetors days. Those types of things I know and like to work on. Vehicle computers, MAF sensors and the like are not what I know about and I let the computer stay as it is. I'm just more comfortable with that. I had the dealership install the factory remote start, but if I need to rebuild a carberator, that I can do. Others may be much happier using FORscan instead of resistors, so this is place to discuss it. For me, I chose to use resistors. I needed the color codes and that's what I found here. I provided some advice about resistors and switchbacks that I learned about. Anything else is just noise.
  7. The switchbacks I installed behave in the same manner as most foctory (Lexus is an example that quickly comes to mind) systems behave: white on when the turn signal is off, white off and amber flashing while the turn signal is on (which makes the amber element stand out better) and after a 5 second delay (so that the internal circuit can detect that the turn signal is off) the white comes back on. I bought this type deliberately. It is also the same pattern used by DriveBright for their replacement super bright (I guess about 4x brighter than the originals) bumper light replacements that have a built-in turn signal. BTB, this is not a pitch for DriveBright; I mention them only because I'm familiar with their products, others may be available. The light have an additional wire that is tapped into the turn signal to flash with the turn signal. I have been converting to LED's as quickly as possible to make my Edge highly visible. I've already been hit once by a driver that never saw me when she pulled out from a bus stop (parked illegally, she was determined to be completely at fault) making me more determined to make the transition as fast as possible. I can't recommend converting over strongly enough. I started in the back to make me clearly visible from the back, especially when I use the brakes.
  8. I may have used the term DRL's a broadly, but the lights are are on when the bumper lights are on, which I always see referred to as DRL's. Parking lights stay on as long as the switch in is that position, but the turn signal bulbs go out with the headlights and the bumper lights after dark when the ignition is turned off. It also how I have seen amber/white switchbacks referred to elsewhere (DriveBroght.com for example) in regard to the bumper lights. Others may only consider the headlights alone as DRL's. And they are on during the day when the light switch is in the DRL position, again with the bumper lights. Some of the use of the term itself maybe a matter of semantics, as some members consider that only the headlights are DRL's as they are on only when the transmission is not in Park. I consider that if a light is on during the day when the ignition is on and the light switch is set to DRL to be a DRL. The intensity of the switchbacks (parking lights are pretty dim, switchbacks are anything but dim) also make them DRL's. Whatever. More important to me was getting the LED turn signals working without hyper-flash. The wiring information provided was exactly what I needed, helping others with the hyper-flash issue was also important, the rest is only of minor consideration. Others have mentioned FORscan, but as I mentioned earlier, I'm a wrench and screwdriver type of guy. I don't have an OBD cable or the software, and the idea of changing the configuration of a computer that controls a vehicle is something I would like to avoid, especially if all I need is a couple of wire taps and resistors and a pair or pliers. 6 of one, 1/2 a dozen of another.
  9. Using switchback DRL LED's aslo makes for a very bright set of courtesy lights, so keep that in mind when choosing what type of LED's you go with. I can't state strongly enough on testing the fit of the new bulbs before putting them in place. The lamp housing has to be removed to get a bulb back out. There is *no* plate below the turn signal socket so the bulb *will* fall into the bottom of the lamp housing.
  10. Nick may be right about using FORscan but I'm a wrench and screwdriver type of guy. The idea of using anything to modify the programming of a computer that controls a vehicle (at least me doing it) is something I avoid if I can do it with a simple mechanical approach. As for the resistors, just make sure you *don't* buy no-name ones.
  11. I don't know what the MKZ uses for bulbs, but the Edge uses standard type 3157 bulbs. Spending $30 for a pair of resistors is a lot easier than re-programing the ODB to not hyper-flash. AND you don't have to go around cutting in to the factory wiring, an anethma in my view. The resistors impose no more, and maybe less, load on the turn signal circuit then trailer lights do. The system only goes into to hyper-flash when the load is too low when a light is out. Anyone who has towed a trailer will tell you that if the trailer is connected, you'll not get hyper-flash when a turn signal bulb is out as the trailer offsets the missing load from that bulb. I don't plan to remove the LED's from the Edge when I trade up to an Explorer next year, so there was no reason not to install the resistors. It took me less than an hour to install and test the resistors and the switchbacks. The output of the white DRL LED's is brutal if you look directly into the light from less 10 feet away, even in full sunshine. My bulbs are 5,000 degrees Kelvin (color index [sharp white, but little UV-A]) which contributes to the intensity of the output. All of the chips are phosphor backed made by CREE. I can't recall what the Lumen output is as I write this. Just make sure when you put the LED's into the sockets they firmly seat. The first pair I bought were ID'd as 3157's but they easily popped right back out. If they fall into the lamp housing, getting them uot *will* be quite challenging. The second pair I tried fit as tightly as the original bulbs. The resistors will be the quickest and easiest route to make the conversion. You may not need resistors with standard CANbus (amber only) LED'S. I don't know since I had decided on the DRL switchbacks (white/amber) when I decided to upgrade to LED's. With the resistors in place they worked correctly -> white on for DRL; white off, amber flashing normally during turn and white snapping back on 5 seconds after amber off. Buy the bulbs first and test for fit and hyper-flash before buying the resistors. If you need resistors, go with the Phillips, they're worth the money. And the DRL switchbacks are the route to go because of the increased visibility it gives your Edge. Good luck.
  12. I needed to use Phillips 6-ohm resistors (Phillips are commercial grade) to use with my CANbus. Yes, even though they were CANbus, I was still having a problem with hyper-flash, probably because the bulbs were "switchback" Amber/White and the bleed-back through the white, since the white are off when the amber are on. This is different for non-switchback LED's in that then parking element remain on when the turn signal is on. When I had instilled the Amber only CANbus in the rear I did not have (and still don't) this problem. I have a 2013 Edge and I've replaced all of my bulbs with LED's, except the headlights. So, if you are using switchback type, even if they are CANbus, you'll almost certainly need a resistor on each. Also, the Phillips run very cool, they are more expensive, but worth the higher price. (@30 a pair) I used thermal ADHESIVE to anchor them in place as there was no way to get into where I had to place them to screw them in place. Make sure you anchor to a metal surface. The wiring color code listed earlier helped a lot. Thank you for that information. Hope this helps others making the conversion. Start in the back with CANbus and you should be fine with standard bulbs up front. You may need do some testing for the front LED's. So, good luck.
  13. I'm interested in the same. Unfortunately, for both him and I, we both just bought ous, so an immediate trade-in is not quite appropriate. (Mine is a 2013.) So, in my case, I'll change my plan to trade-in for a late-model Explorer (2015-17) from 3 years to 2 and use a Galaxy Tab A for navigation. (I'd rented a 17 Titanium from Avis, but obviously that was not what I could ever afford to buy. I'm retired from a disability and love my Edge even without the Touch screen.) Thanks for your reply and I'll plan accordingly.
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