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I am now dealing with this on my 2016 Edge Titanium. It's been a while since I've posted. The Edge has been pretty trouble free up until now. I took a long trip and luckily for me it didn't start until I was almost home. The car ran smooth the whole way but noticed when I was heading home it was not shifting correctly. I also noted that it was also shifting oddly during the trip but did not have any noise at that time. I brought the car into the dealer last week and am currently waiting for parts (they think tomorrow) but assuming I won't get it back for at least another week. Lucky for my I purchased the car 4 years 10.5 months ago so just eeked in the manufactures warranty. I did purchase the extended warranty because I knew it was a "FORD" when i purchased it and never expect much from them even though I really like this Edge, I am sad to know I will be unloading it soon. I still have an extra 2 years on my transferable warranty so that should be a good selling point. I have seen that there is a lawsuit for the 2015-2018 Edge's pending for this issue that was filed in March 2021, Straub vs FORD MOTOR COMPANY if anyone is interested. This would be a good case to track as it may give us some ammunition or even extend our warranties as well as give some of you a chance to get some money back who have had to do this repair outside of the warranty. I found most complaints were around the 40-50k. If you went longer you may have had the issue but it wasn't loud enough for you to hear it. Another clue is you will find the Transmission will not shift like it used to, I had notice that it was starting to happen during my trip but never heard a noise, but by the time I drove the 200 miles home it was making the noise. The dealer is hopefully doing the repair per the TSB. Either way if it happens again before I sell it I am still covered. what next the timing chain stretch? or the coolant leak into the engine...hmm. Damn I really had hoped FORD got it right, but guess not.

The dealer I went to was talking about drilling into the housing etc and would cost 225 Geeze California prices! Anyway i was surprised because other mechanics would spray up the tube as well. others will go through the filter housing then close it up afterward. So far mine has been good so not worried yet. At least the water is dripping now. though seems a little slow. i have to bring it in, in a month or two for my reg service will talk to them again to see if they will run the AC and find the actual drain. Still not sure if i would bring it back to them for more than an oil change though. The service guy did say he was new and didn't work for Ford before so it makes me wonder. I had an Acura before and when the service manager would hear or test drive my car he would know exactly what was going on. Need to find another manager like that but for Ford.

Just an update. Well found out what the dealer thought was the drain for the evaporator was the drain for the vent below the windshield. We had a few warm days and had to run the AC, water was dripping from the vent, I did a disinfect with lysol and ozium it worked but funky smell came back once I turned off the AC and went to the regular vent. My assumption is the box still had some mildew so treated again with AC on and off with heat on too so I cover everything. Fresh now we'll see how long it lasts. If it comes back I will have to get under there to follow the drip of water then see if I can just clear it myself or make sure there is a tech at the shot to flow it. Then do a foam treatment to make sure it clears out any mildew as I know it will continue to grow even with a minor amount left in the heat/AC box.

Thanks Enigma, I have seen those videos theres another mack one on youtube but it's for an older model edge he shows the drain but it's under the car, unlike the 2016. There was another video from another who said most are under the car but the 2016 Edge has it in the firewall. So my thought is that has to be the drain. When we get back to AC weather I will have to check to see if I am getting water flowing out of that tube if so and still have the smell I will probably just go ahead and treat with foam. I was just curious to find out if anyone else was having the same issue I am having.

Here is a pic of the general location from a pic I found online. I will take a shot of the actual plug on my Edge when I get a chance. Easy to find when you know where to look. it's just a bent tube with a little rubber flapgate on it. Update I think it's time for a new shop. I checked it out further and this drain is for the vent intake just below the windshield. I figured the drain had to be lower then the evaporator which should be closer to the floor of the edge not up behind the glove box. Removed the pic as it's not correct.

Don't think it's overboard. I would do it the exact same way. Usually you replace one and you have to replace the other a short time later or the lack of stopping power on the rear will not help the front do what it needs to. The thought is if the front warped it probably won't be long before the back does. I remember one rental I drove the brake pedal pulsed and the front wheel shook every time I came to a stop. Good thing I only had that one for a few days, did not like that feeling! The way I see it brakes are a set of 4 when it comes to 4-wheel disc brakes. If I had drum and disc I would not hesitate to just replace the disc without doing the drums, or visa versa. I think you will be happy with the Centric rotors it's the only brand I use now. I used to like ceramic they don't tend to dust as much, but for my older Mitsubishi they would usually squeal like a pig after about 10k miles. Probably just the car, it had drums in back (lasted 100k) and discs that I switched out at least 4 times while I owned it. Once I got the semi's and Centric rotors that was the last front brake job I had to do. (before I traded it for my Edge)

Used to go to a cheap brake guy, rotors would warp every 10k! Then I found a good honest shop! He pointed out what the "cheap" brake job did wrong. He also suggested the Centric premium rotors and Powerstop semi-metalic pads. I was never happier after he put them in, braking after that was straight and true. When it comes time to change the brakes on my Edge he's the first guy I am taking it to. I like the slotted rotors as well so will have to watch this post to see how the fair. I've been lucky so far no warpage on my rotors but then again only have 20k on mine. I have rented a few that were pretty bad. Even the Escape's seem to have problems with their rotors as well.

You would be pretty lucky if it didn't damage the engine. I hear nightmare stories of the water pump taking the engine with it when it blows. Not sure why Ford had to bury the pump inside the engine when pretty much every other car has a nice easy to remove one right in the front of the engine. I am with Perf on that one replace what you feel needs to be if you're going in that deep to fix the water pump.

2016 Ford Edge Titanium 2.0 Ecoboost AC issue. Have a weird issue since I started using the AC again. When I shut off the AC I get a musty smell for a few minutes afterward. I did notice that there is no water dripping below the car when I park after running the AC. Before it used to leak a damn river. I also don't notice any moisture inside the car. So obviously the evaporator core drain is plugged,. I just brought it to the dealer today, they wanted to do the foam treatment at a cost of $225. With only 20k on the car I would think it would be covered as a bumper to bumper item, but I am informed it isn't. They did blow the drain out for me free of charge and have not used the AC yet but when they showed me where it was I was kind of amazed it was not on the underside of the car. The drain is on the firewall just behind the oil dipstick. My thought is it's above the core. Why would Ford put the drain above the core? Seems odd. In any event, has anyone ever cleared the evaporator core drain? If so was it on the firewall in the location stated? I honestly thought it was or should be under the car. Either way they were telling me they need to drill a hole in my housing to foam the AC unit but all the video's I have ever seen, they either run a line through the drain or open the filter compartment behind the glove box then run the hose in that way. I figure it's easy enough to do my self. I had tried the Lysol method but maybe I was too timid and didn't spray enough in the intake to work. As it was fine for a week then the smell came back. Either way if I can't get Ford to fess up and fix it under warranty then I will probably have an AC place do the foam treatment or just bite the bullet and have the Dealer do it, but I would want reassurance from them that it's fixed and not something I am going to have to do with this car for the rest of the time I own it. Any suggestions ideas? Has anyone else serviced the AC vents in the 2016 Edge? I see a lot for the 2007 thru 2013. I just don't want to spend all spring and summer smelling the funk from the AC. Thanks in advance. I can post a pic of the drain if anyone is curious.

As it works out the forecast i was looking at is for New Years was planning on going up that way and it was showing possible snow that weekend now the forecast has changed. I may just order some of the alternative style but I have a feeling the CHP has seen it before. There are some pull tie style ones that got bad reviews they were saying they broke off. I would think the ones with the seat belt straps might be a good option. I may just throw some chains in there just in case they do a mandatory carry requirement when I go up. I have only had to use chains twice both times it was just to travel about 10 miles. Even during the white out condition that was at night as well i drove without chains I was probably the last one out but even then driving through the pass at 10MPH sure pissed off a lot of truckers! Live an learn I guess. Thanks for the tips I was thinking Walmart too, but I would have to order them and may not get in time. I have some old cables think they were for 20" will have to check This would be about the only time I wish I had AWD. Honestly I drove an AWD rental one time and it seems to handle a bit different than the std front wheel drive it took me a few days to get used to driving it. Anyway Roots like the red sport...nice pick! I liked the Red for the Titanium too but couldn't find one with the ceramic leather, only black. Nothing against the black leather but for me it was too much black and the ceramic looked sharper (not to mention my wife liked the ceramic too). I could have waited but I liked the Tricolor white too and the guy gave me a deal I could not pass up.

Hey CARR just saw your post. Those are not the pins that are loose. The pins that were lose in the panel are part of the panel, at least that is what the dealer told me. Those 8mm pins are usually around the wheel well of the car and on the smaller plastic pieces near the wheels. The pins on the panel are larger than 8mm, and are about 3" in length. The end that holds the panel on is about 1 1/2" in diameter. I have yet to see any replacements.

that makes sense. I just wonder if I should just carry a set of chains and just know I would be taking my chances if I get stuck up there. Usually don't go unless the weather is cooperating. I have driven in white out conditions and with chains on my other car before and it's a scary ride! Hate driving in the snow either way. Last time I was able to borrow my fathers 4x4 Lexus with snow tires and it blew through the mountains like there was no snow! The auto stores have gotten wise to those who used top purchase the chains as a "just in case" then would return them after their trip. Forget when they decided to change the policy but I think they were tired of having to refund 100's of tire chains in the spring so they stopped taking them back. I have seen these I thought maybe these could be a good option Optional tire chains the only thing is I don't see them on the "approved list" so they may say I can't use them or they do not qualify. Anyway my main worry would be having to use them, the hwy is usually pretty clear though I know last year with all the snow and rain a lot of times they just had to close I-80 because they could not keep up with the snow fall. Then again not many were trying to get someplace with last years storms!

The thing is in the sierra mountains region of California the highway patrol will sometimes require chains, and other times the require you to "carry chains" if that is the case then they won't let you go further with out them on or in the car, even with AWD or 4x4. For me, I don't go up to the snow much so to invest or get a set of snow tires would be a waste of time and money for me. I have read a few people's posts where they used the low clearance chains and been okay I think that is the main issue. My other thought was to get the autosock style it does pass for the chain requirements for the state. There are also some clip on types that I see on Amazon but not sure if I should trust the reviews or not, esp when they are just one sentence, those to me seem to be the ones most likely to be fake, and put on so they can get a 4 or 5 star rating on junk. Tightanium here is a link for California requirements: http://www.dot.ca.gov/hq/roadinfo/ChainRequire.pdf

Funny I had seen 100ft/lbs online somewhere too but the manual does say 162. My Mitsubishi was more like 65 min to 80 Max. I would always tell the guys at the tire places don't hammer on the damn wheels! There's nothing worse than busting a knuckle trying to get lug nuts off or better yet hurting your foot or shin because you have to jump up and down on one of those little manf. lug wrenches. Also to check torque you have to back them off to be sure they didn't over tighten. sometimes it's just better to retorque them yourself so you know they are to spec. The dealer should know better unless they want you to come back to change your rotors out.

This sucks I read in the manual you can't put chains or cables on any tire other than the 18" on the edge? Seems odd to me. I don't do much snow driving but this time of year I may head up that way if I see there is a good window to get up there, but weather being what it is can change. So what am I supposed to do if I am up in the mountains and it snows? I could just wait it out but if it's snowing a week and I got to get back to work what to use? I see there are strap type avail that will loop around your rims with a plastic type pad. Anyone have any experience with those. There has to be something we can use on the 19" or even 20" tires that would work. The other thought is an autosock style thoughts anyone or experiences.

That is nice do have the road service here too. I also have a torque wrench as a just in case. Sometimes you don't want to wait an hour for a guy to show up....haha Either way it's always nice to have a good sized breaker bar with you even a small air pump that will plug into the 12V line so you can deal with issues quickly. Even to help someone else if that's the case too.

I tapped the bottom panel, just pushing it won't make the sound, if you tap your finger on the panel around the pegs and you hear even the slightest rattle it's the pins. There is also a plastic panel on the sides just in front of the rear tires that can vibrate when wind speeds increase as well. Also check door alignment if the seams are not equally spaced between the doors or the door is off some you can get a little bit of wind noise but also it will rattle the small hose. Sometimes sounds bounce off the windows of the car you think it's on the left but it's really on the right. The panels under the car seem to be an issue for most who are hearing rattles when these vehicles hit 40MPH plus. The Edge actually is not the only car with complaints about underpanels.

Not a problem. I think I had read on another post a dealer had that as a solution. so I just tried it with what I had around the house to see if that was the issue. I have a feeling these plastic clips will wear eventually and start to loosen over time. Mine was dead quiet when I first purchased it when I took a long road trip it started making the sound. That was around 10k i am now at 15k with a new panel and all is good (for now) I may just put the spacers in there so there is less vibration on those plates when driving. I believe the issue is the covers are made of a pressed fiber so they tend to vibrate with higher air flow like you get driving on the freeway. I always noticed it more when there was a high cross wind too.

I don't have any photos. You just have to place them near the clips, and make sure you have to squeeze them in tight or wind will move them and they won't work. I just recently took the car in for it's scheduled service. The dealer told me they (Ford) doesn't have the individual clips (seems odd) but they did order a new panel for me. The new panel fixed it. If your Edge is still under warranty it won't cost a thing but you should probably narrow down what it is first. Also if you have had service recently and now hear it check the engine cover under the car I hear they get lazy sometimes and don't put it back on securely. My original solution with the tubes worked. I tried to get my arm in as car as I could and put them close to the clips. I had tried to take pics but it's just too dark and tight in there to get a good shot. One way to tell if it's the panel clips is to tap the panel in various locations if you hear a rattle its probably bad clips. if you don't hear it then it maybe the plastic covers behind the panels. The issue with the edge is there are too many little things to rattle under the body. I did have a rattle inside it was the center console plastic cover near the park brake. Fix is to put some screening spline under the side trim around it. That seams to pinch the plastic enough to stop a rattle. Rattles drive me nuts too, some seemed to go away others were just because i like to keep things in the cup holders. Wish I had a magic solution for it all but mostly trial and error to find these little issues.

I had the same issue. I fashioned my own buffer out of the foam pool tubes and placed them near the plastic clips under the two side panels until I bring mine in for the next oil change. If there is a dealer solution I would just assume they fix it while it's under warranty. Thanks for posting the solution. I found mine by just tapping the under panels with the tips of my fingers. When I did I could hear the plastic pins rattle because they are not as tight as they should be. Also I am missing one pin on the back end of the passenger side panel. I tried to push and tightened the pins but over time they just end up getting lose again. Once I put the buffers no more rattle. It was actually fairly faint but I could hear it when the radio was at lower volumes. I have a better schematic of the underside that I will post tomorrow so others will know where to look or at least what the dealer should check. It sounds like you have a good dealer service dept I would stick with them! There are a lot that will tell you they looked into it but do nothing or "don't hear it" As you can see there are a lot of items under the Edge that can rattle. Most of the time the culprit on any car maker is the larger panels. It's not isolated to just Ford when it comes to under panels rattling. Addition: Here is a better diagram. If you search google images for tb10919A this image should come up. My issue is I am missing Clip 4, and Clip 5 keeps coming lose, probably because 4 is missing. I added numbers to the image since this is what I am going to bring to the dealer to show them where my issue is.

Not sure if you've installed it yet but, I put mine on before wax. I made sure the bumper was clean and wiped with the alcohol wipes supplied. One thing I would recommend is to leave both the car and protector in the sun for about 20-30 min before applying. This will help the adhesive (at least for me it did) I had heard a lot of people complain of bubbles or the protector lifting after they install it. I have had it on for over a year. It's been in cold and hot climates and no bubbles, lifting or any other issues. Also do not stretch when installing just place it from the center and press down outward for it to stick. The other advantage to applying it when it's warm/hot is you have a little bit of time to work with it. Prior to putting on the protector I marked center on the car and protector so once I put it on I did not have to try to move it around at all. Went on extremely easy. I did not get the factory protector I hear it's a little thin but if it works what the heck. I wanted to protect the top as well as the lip so I opted for a different protector. Here is the finished product, it's been on for almost a year now with no issues. Just my two cents.

Hey Akirby. I was watching the install video on etrailer and it looked like the bar on the Draw-Tite would rest on the center screw that holds the shield. The installer actually had to cut off the end of the screw so the hitch would fit. Maybe the MKX is different on the underside? The 2016 etrailer shows them removing the bumper (sounds extreme) The piece I am talking about is attached to the rear bumper and has a vertical shield that slides up in behind the bumper. https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/Ford/Edge/2016/75234.html?vehicleid=201642260

I was looking at these also. Question I have is with the hidden hitch you have to remove the heat shield which also looks like it protects the rear bumper from debris as well. Has anyone put on the hidden hitch and had problems? I know I like the look of it but don't like the idea of removing that heat shield. Would not mind hearing from someone who has one installed hidden or exposed. Not concerned about which one looks better more so about how it is when installed. Kick sensor is not a big deal breaker for me used it maybe twice in 9 months.