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About Sport17

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  1. Well, that was kind-of what I was thinking... That or they weren't "rotated" properly when installing them. I mean, it's one bolt/screw whatever. There aren't many options. LOL. But I don't see how that would have such a dramatic difference (total work or total fail). I've never seen this style of wiper - you can rotate them when the car is off. I can switch the sides (make the passenger side the "high" side/etc.) and they will re-adjust automatically. That is, they will "re-time" themselves" whereas the driver's side will re-sync.
  2. Xtra, Carr142, thank you both for your help. This case (I'm relatively certain) is not a matter of anything on the window. The wipers worked 100% perfectly until I brought it to a dealer. The dealer had to remove the wipers (that whole cowl that they attach to) in order to remove the engine. When I picked it up, they were absolutely horrible. I replaced the stock wipers with Rain-X blades and they still "chopped". The current shop I'm working with agreed with both of you, thinking it could be something on the window. So they did a "thorough" cleaning of the windshield and replaced the blades again with their own. The "chopping" still persists. It's a real head-scratcher - there's one bolt that holds them on - no real adjustments that I know of and I've never experienced this issue before. I think actually using Rain-X may help because it's somewhat of a lubricant. Ugh.. I need to start reading up on the new Sport model (I think it's the "RS") because my lease is up next May. Nice tip on the glass stove-top cleaner. I think maybe I'll try that and if that doesn't work, add Rain-X. In the past I have used Acetone but honestly, I think that's too strong - seemed like it may have "melted" a factory "film" that was on the window (I had little "spots" on the glass after using it, so no more for that one). To be clear, I never used Acetone on my Edge - just vehicles in the past. I've only got 13k miles on the Edge after 2 years and with a personal life total of (crap, I don't know) maybe 400,000 miles of driving experience, I have never encountered this issue. I've had a 1972 Charger, 2 Post Office Jeeps (DJ-5's), a 1991 Pontiac Bonneville, a few Caravans (moms), Delta 88, 2002 Jeep Liberty Renegade (KK), 2008 Jeep Liberty (KJ), 2009 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon (JK) and a 2015 Jeep Cherokee but never this bad of a wiper issue. And it never started until the very day I picked it up from the dealer who removed the wipers and cowl from the vehicle. Funny, I never thought I'd ever have such an issue with wiper blades. It's like the blades are super "sticky" if that makes sense. Like the rubber is really "grabbing" the glass. Perhaps the dealer cleaned the glass with something? Thanks Again, will update if I find anything out.
  3. Ok, long story short, I had rat damage to my engine. Took it to a dealer and they ultimately had to pull the engine out (to replace the firewall insulation). Worst dealer ever. They damaged my custom front Ford emblem (scratched), didn't properly attach the radiator hose to the reservoir (blew off 5 minutes after leaving the dealer). They had to re-splice wire harnesses, which they didn't do correctly (triggered about 20 sensor failures and shorted the battery). And finally, after picking it up the wipers have a HORRID squeaking/chopping effect. They literally "skip/chop" over the window, leaving splatter all over and they obviously don't remove everything. This is all an insurance job so we ultimately took it to a new shop to fix what the dealer screwed up. They inspected the wipers but said they didn't see anything wrong and they mentioned that the steel the arms are made of is incredibly strong and you would see clear signs of damage if they had been tweaked. I tend to agree but here we are. I bought brand-new blades (rain-x best model) and at first it was fine but after a week, the problem returned. They come with some type of conditioner, I think, so they don't dry out or whatever. Anyway, today the shop I'm working with put on yet another new pair of blades. Issue persists. So, my question is - is there any type of adjustments that can be done? This shop mentioned they played with the "tension" on the arms (this was on my first visit) but no help there. It almost seems like they don't cycle as far in the up-swing as they should (stop at the top is about 3 inches from the edge of the window. Would it be worth a try to remove the arm, rotate it slightly, and put it back on? If it isn't in the proper location when you put it on, could that cause excessive squeaking? Thanks in advance!
  4. Sport17

    Heater Duct Diagram

    Well, I suppose I can't say I know 100% that it's dog feces - but I've smelt my share of dog feces and it smells pretty much like the rest. I did some brief checking and it seems to be the front passenger side floor where the smell is coming from. I don't even know where to begin, in terms of what to remove or look for. This is one I really wish was my imagination - unfortunately, it isn't. I pulled the glove box - there is a sealed box behind it - is that HVAC related? Wondering if it would help to take a peek inside.
  5. Here's an odd one. A local disgruntled body shop put dog crap in my HVAC venting somewhere. It is obvious when I either use the ground vents for heat or use recirc for the AC. When using the recirc, the smell is much much fainter. It has been relatively warm here so I hadn't used the heater on the floor until this am. Why, you ask? Long story short, after having my vehicle for 3 weeks, the day I was to pick it up (dented rear quarter panel) I was told they hadn't started working on it and it'd be another 18 days to do it. Needless to say, I contacted my insurance who contacted the (then on vacation) owner of the shop. He put his foot down and the shop slapped the car back as fast as they could doing one of the worst jobs I had ever seen. Escalated again through insurance and the car was re-repaired. Along the way, some a-hole got a reaming from the owner an decided to exact his revenge.. Absolutely nobody else has worked on the vehicle and the smell is 100% unmistakable. I have a shop who is going to look at it but pulling the dash is listed as a 10 hour chore - I'm guessing that isn't needed as the shop who did the body work wouldn't have had to go to that length - they had to pull some of the dash for some reason (I have no idea what), as well as the headliner down the side of the vehicle. Has anyone dug into their dash at all? Anyone happen to have a diagram of the channel/HVAC unit? Thanks! S
  6. Sport17

    Hyper-sensitive brakes

    Curious - does anyone know the exact failure/defect of the booster? It it too much/not enough vacuum/pressure?
  7. So, I'm not sure if it's related or not but my left (driver's side) lift actuator broke off. I tried snapping it back on but it won't stay. Ugh. I ordered a new one for $120. Anyone have experience installing one? It looks pretty straight forward but that isn't always the case. As for the gate not closing when parked at an angle, I feel like that is an adjustment/alignment issue to the gate. In fact, I'm thinking that the alignment issue may have caused the failure to the actuator. Guess I'll find out soon enough. Hoping for the best.
  8. Sport17

    Hyper-sensitive brakes

    Sorry man. Just stressed about the whole thing..
  9. Sport17

    Hyper-sensitive brakes

    Yes, I did contact the paint shop and they agreed to refund the money. I called the bank AFTER as a precaution and the dude insisted that he overturn the charge. I told him (BOA rep) that the shop was willing to refund me but he said not to worry about it. So, no. Not a dick move at all. Also, I would NEVER have a paint shop try to fix my brakes. What they did was inexcusably negligent. Kind of a dick move judging people in a forum when you don't know everything. Total repair cost is going to be $1000+. Total paint cost was $1350. I got $400 back. Paint shop should be happy.
  10. Curious if anyone else has this issue. If I park on an angle (tested with passenger side 8" lower than driver's side) the liftgate will not latch closed. I just got it back from the dealer who "fixed" it but it still has the issue. Looking at it, it almost seems like the gate is too heavy for the support arms that operate it. Has anyone else tried to close their liftgate while parked off-angle? I'm hoping it's just bad design because I'm growing tired of dealership visits with no success..
  11. Sport17

    Hyper-sensitive brakes

    So, I got it back from the dealer. Dealer said they couldn't replicate the squeak or the hyper-sensitivity, which was, well, a total lie. However, in the dealer's defense it does look like the problem was self inflicted. I had my wheels and calipers painted by a very reputable shop in the area. I ASSUMED they would remove the calipers before painting. They apparently didn't. There's paint on the pads, the outside of the rotors, all of the stainless metal clips and hardware, and the guide pins. Ugh. Unbelievable. So It looks like it's just gummed up - causing just a bit of "extra" friction that the booster is over-compensating for. As for the dealer saying they couldn't replicate the issue, I'm assuming they're just covering their asses - if they were to say "yeah, we replicated the issue but didn't fix it", they're basically sending someone back on the road admittedly with bad brakes. The good news is that they did indicate that there was paint on everything and I used that to have my bank reverse the charge of the caliper painting. Unfortunately, that won't cover the repair (new pads, hardware and cleaning paint off). Anyway, I'm still not sure that the paint is even the real issue but the fact is, there is paint on brake parts which basically dismisses any warranty claim I may have on the brakes. The paint shop that did it are pros. 5/5 stars on Yelp. They work on Lambos, Bentleys, Vettes, and yes, Ford Edges. I mean I can't imagine they would screw up so badly. Second issue I'm still having is with the tailgate not latching when parked at an angle, but I'll post that in a new thread...
  12. Sport17

    Hyper-sensitive brakes

    Well, I'm in the Bay area, CA (south of San Francisco 20 miles or so). Humidity can vary quite a bit. At my house, about 800 ft. ele. in the hills, it can be quite humid (foggy/low clouds). Down on the pavement, it's quite dry and warm. Been waiting about a month for the service appointment at the dealership. Finger's crossed. From what others have described, I have the EXACT same issue - whiplash braking under 10mph or so.. But my vehicle was built after the cutoff so we'll see how it goes. I just came back to get the TSB info from the earlier post. Hope that helps!
  13. Sport17

    Hyper-sensitive brakes

    My brakes have begun behaving this way, as well. 2017 Sport with only about 4k miles on it. I noticed it a little bit earlier on but it seems to be getting worse. They also squeak - namely with very soft pressure at a slow speed - like when I ease up on the brake pedal at a stop, enough to where the vehicle begins to creap forward.. Also, when coming to a slow stop on a hill - the squeak is much louder in that circumstance. No TSBs or anything listed for a 2017. I guess I'll call the dealer to see if they can look at it..
  14. I used a Vandermolen 850BTx for years on my Jeeps - but only for the interior.. I guess I wasn't so concerned with the exterior but I found it did an absolutely AMAZING job on the interior. I had to do some back and forth (blowing from each side to the other and repeat) but it worked effing wonders - getting various crap out of the little nooks and crannies Jeeps are notorious for. I would still use it, if I still had it - by far the best interior clean I could achieve. I would use it on the outside as well with my Edge, if I still had it - I think it would do a great job but I'd still finish with a cloth or chamois. I guess my point is - try it on the interior as well!