Kanatronic
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Posts posted by Kanatronic
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On 3/9/2010 at 6:36 PM, securinu said:
it is in the latch mech. common issue with gm but have seen it in dodge and ford as well.
Latch Left
Quantity: 1
Make: Ford
Model: Edge
Model Year(s): 2007
List Price: $62.38
Your Price: $49.28
Description:
LATCH
Remove from cart | Edit Quantity: Update
Price: $49.28
I would have tried first the connector....in my case the connector was the issue, unplugging it several time and a little contact cleaner did the trick...
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The wheel you see on the picture is the one they are selling on eBay, it is new, and it comes with everything except the airbag, price is less than 300, and all switches and connectors are included...I recently had to replace at the dealer, the fans, and the radiator, as the old dealer, while replacing the fan, put an screw into the radiator, it never leaked as it was plugging the hole, but once the new mechanic tried to replace the shot fans, and unscrewed that, boila, antifreeze all over the place...replaced transmission fluid, the power steering fluid, PTU and differential fluids, etc...the antifreeze I think they used the yellow one, of course clean...
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The wheel is looking old and worn, but the airbag was recalled under the warranty so the dealer has to replace it anyways....so I was thinking to maybe drop the sterring wheel for them to replace it, along with the airbag, which needs to be replace by them at no charge anyways, I have seen the process and it is just one nut in the center,,,the switches comes with the new wheel, so I think it will be a plug and play connector if it is the same....
the spark plugs and rubber boots I have only 65K miles on my Edge, and I have absolutely no sings of any kind of them being bad or even hesitating, rumbling, vibrating, misfiring, nothing....on top is not that I want to save money, it is that due the pandemic, no dealers have appointments on my area anyways, and there is shortage of mechanics, I do not want Joe with no experience doing any job on my car....I prefer to pay a seasoned mechanic that know what is doing.... -
I'm looking to replace my steering wheel (given that there is a recall for the airbag on the driver side as well, I could do both at once) but the part number I'm looking from my dealer, 8T4TZ3600BE, doesn't seem to be the right one. They gave me one probably to get rid of me, as I refused to pay $800 bucks to replace my spark plugs and rubber boots, insane, no way Jose....but the array of media buttons on the right side doesn't seem to be the right one, it looks more like the 8T4Z3600CF pictured below...Could anybody gimme a hand with this? Also how to remove it and reinstall it safely? Do we actually need to remove the battery terminals, I do not want to lose my sync/radio settings...maybe they are all alike but this one was listed as 2009 model, and I want to get the right one...any help guys!!!!
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I have pair of supports for the liftgate back door, made by Strong Arm, they work nice, and they indeed are brand new...I just tested them, so the plastic bag is open; but I got a pair of OEM's and my dealer replaced them at the end, as they were covered under my warranty, my bad...So I have no use for them now, and I can't return them as they are now open, and they will last for 5-7 more years...
I will sell them for less of what I paid, or any trade for other parts (looking for brand new Ford Front Logo for the grill)...if you are interested, let me know, I paid $54.00 for the pair...if there is any member interested, just contact me, please...I will sell them for $35.00 plus shipping...
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I still have a couple of Strong Arms, that I got, test them, but at the end I prefer the Stabilus...those are just tested brand new....if you are interested, just contact me...I will sell them lower than any dealer...
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The pads on the edge has champhers on them to make the braking smooth, for the ones used to japanese cars, they will take some time to get used to, to the point that I was offered once on enterprise, a nissan rental, and after a block I came back to replace it, as I could not get used to the almost air braking system...my pads lasted far over 30,000 miles, good luck getting ones that will last that long, unless ten times that price....
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They can do whatever they want, but hte motorcraft is not the same exact fit as the OEM, I had tried both...the fit is the motorcraft is not as smooth looking as the OEM, I'm using now my third one...
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Nevermind, I think it is on one of my invoices: 7T4Z17528AC
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These is a motorcraft, it is not the same as the OEM. While you mount them, that arm is a little over the blade, not nicely flush as the OEM.
I have tried both trust me on that, ando nce the lady at the dealer told me the same that they were slightly different, but most people do not care about that little differece, but I do....I want the FORD OEM part number...to order the OEM,
BTW I use bosch icons on the front as well, so far the best I have tried, far better than the Michelin and RainX...also have used once the Motorcraft for the front, they are a joke, mine lasted three months before begining to strike the glass, but they were free...LOL...
Everytime they offer me free wipers what I do is tell them to giive me the OEM rear instead....
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Does anybody knows the part number for the rear wiper blade, normal OEM Ford rear wiper, the Motorcraft is slightly different, and the difference in cost is not that big either...or any good alternative to replace just the blade after...that is blade is pretty thick at the back side, and normal bladeswill not fit as intended...
Ah...BTW 2008 model SEL....
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Just reviving this thread to give my thanks for the photos!
Some a$$hole clipped my passenger's (RH) mirror on Saturday while my wife and I were out to dinner (finally got a chance to go out without the kids). Thanks to the information on here I was able to remove the mirror glass in order to replace the body colored cap. The only pieces spared were the mirror cover/cap and my LED puddle light.
Took 10 minutes and $220 (entire mirror) to do the job.
You did not need to get the entire mirror assembly, just the glass, is a lot cheaper, it comes with the plastic back as well...if it is not the one with the blind spot mirror, is even cheaper...mine both cost me like 186, and 160 something the other, for some reason they are different prices always...
BTW IME, if they are compatible getting the lower years sometimes is cheaper even while they are the same part number, I was quoted different prices for 2009 and 2010, not sure but it seems that sometimes the dealers cheat based in the VIN and overprice the most recent models, even while they are the same part number....
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Go to ebay and search "Cadillac 4 note horn". They are all over. That's the one you want as these horns came on a multitude of Caddys. Don't know any specific model or part #. They'll be on ebay though. Make sure the seller is including the plugs with wires to go with them.
I also checked to see what they were rated at. Looked at the fuse box diagram for a Dorado online and found the fuse for the horns is 15 amps. Edge has a 20 amp horn fuse so its perfect! No relay needed. OEM wires should handle it. Mines been on for a few weeks and all good.
And are you sure they are louder than the stock ones????
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My initial question is which is the model or number, part number...etc...How did you get them, any place to order them from....??? Otherwise another useless post as all the others above....sorry!!!
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No problem Tommy. I found out the hard way. I had a 2007 Edge and wanted to update my mirrors in 2009 I believe when the convex mirror became part of it. My brother who manages an autobody repair shop thought he could pull the mirror glass off and found out the hard way that's not how it's done
Are you sure your brother woek in the repair shop???
Guys to replace the mirrors is a two minutes operation maximum, all you need is a flat screwdriver long enough, and insert it below the plastic, period, factory out, factory in... -
Did you look at this one?
http://www.jlaudio.com/10w1v3-2-car-audio-w1v3-subwoofer-drivers-92080
Also, what are you using to amplify the sub?
This is 10" sub, and the stock is 8", I'm planning just to replace the stock with a better driver, more efficient, to get better and more articulated bass, integrated into the music, as it should be...while I said volume was in reference ot the volume of the enclosure being a less deeper driver, but any further amplification, or get more power, is far from being my goal at all, in other words, all I'm looking at, is to improve the quality of the sound, not the quantity, and quantity does not equal quality in my book....not planning to create a moving 100 watts one note boom box at all....I have been in audio for over 20 years, that is my main and only hobby, home audio, not car audio, and I know that a car is the worst scenario to try to create a good sound, given many factors, but mainly the restricted volume, location of speakers, road noise, background noise from the engine, etc...so I'll not try to reinvent the wheel either....
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What I saw on the website is the dome replacements, and the side front bars located on the bumper for the newer models, the 2008 has a round fog light instead with a big glass lens, no bars on the bumper, I know that the directionals on the headlights are the same, and those are the ones I'm trying to get, both for the front directionals in yellow and the brake in red on the back, are those what you are trying to introduce now?...
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The quickest and easiest way to resolve and/or prevent hyper flash is to use high power LED bulbs that are at least 30 watts. The higher wattage will not trigger the hyper flash because it's drawing the same amount of current as the stock bulb. So no need for resistors.
I have actually put together an LED bulb pack for the front and rear turn signals and reverse/backup lights. The turns are 50W bulbs that has ten 5W CREE LEDs and the reverse bulb is a 25W using five 5W CREE LEDs. The bulb pack will be owing on sale later this month. Keep an eye out for them.
The 2008 has no bars, just the regular dual filament bulbs, on both, front and back....
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Very interesting study, now they forgot to post how much revenew they made a year enforcing that law in different states...money write beautiful numbers!!! :talkhand:
Personally I feel it very uncomfortable, and in my case, given my driving habits, useless, my Edge 2008 has 30,000 miles...including a couple of long road trips, I drive usually 15-20 minutes a day each direction..., :hide:
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It's like, turn to acc. plug in seat belt, unplug and replug 9 times while the light is off, then leave unplugged and the light should stay off. If the light stays off, the chime is off. It's in my manual, and there's also a thread about it. ..unless that way only applies to first gens..
Done, thanks!!!! One less annoying noise there!!! Page 170 from the manual in PDF....BTW...
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That's the most rediculous thing I've ever heard. The only way your claim makes sense is to say that there were less injuries because there were less cars on the road. Injuries per mile of driving are WAY , WAY lower now than they were in the 50s and 60s. Also a 65mph impact is totally survivable if you're wearing your seatbelts, unless it's truly a direct impact into a solid, immovable object. But that kind of collision is very rare.
But the seatbelt chime is easily disabled, the instructions are in the owner's guide (they refer to is as "Belt-minder").
I'm not encouraging anybody to stop using the seatbelt, whomever feel comfortable using it, be my guest, I feel it completelly uncomfortable (and IMO useless)...Bikers can use even a armor and in an ugly accident they will have very few chances of surviving!!! Simply you are the body...And again in Houston TX is legal to drive with no helmet, I'm assuming in other states as well.
I've driving for over 25 years and I have never had any accident, couple of bumps from stupids driving yes of course...whom has not...but you can not fix stupid, not even using seatbelts or helmets!!!!
In the 50's and 60's there were, considering the population, more or less the same rate we have now, maybe a lot less stupid people driving...Now we live on top of each other, we have not even space to park in the cities...to have more or less cars if people drive carefully does not mean that you necesarily need to have more or less accidents, just be careful and period, my Ford edge 2008 does not have a single scratch one it yet, not a single scratch, not even in the bumpers, go and figure, no seat belts here!!!
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I won't even ask why anyone in this day and age would drive a vehicle without wearing the seat belt. Seat belts save lives just as motorcycle helmets do but I see dumb riders without helmets every day so obviously their lives aren't important to them.
In any case, don't buy one of those electronic LED flashers online because they won't work with any recent model Ford... you won't even find a place to plug them in. Ford and most other manufacturers have gone to computer controlled turn signals - even cars that don't have the newer electronic turn signal switch (e.g. Ford Escape) have replaced traditional flashers with computerized control.
Well in some states, like TX, I was really amazed to see that the helmets are not required by law...all bikers drive with no helmets on the highways...IMO what save lives is driving carefully, seat belts were never used in the glorious era of the american muscle cars in the 50's and 60's and there were a lot less injuries than now, OTOH at 80mph, 65 mph, even at 50mph, a direct impact is fatal regardless of if you are attached to the seat or not, air bags maybe will do the job better, same applies for bikes...there are other injuries other than the head that can kill you instantly...
About the flashers, as I said I will get it unless I could use them, but the sound of the directional is not interrupted by the seat bell chime...
The only way I know to disable the seatbell chime it will also disable the air bag, unless you know a different way which I really appreciate to know, as it is really bothersome!!!
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To confirm what Dingo said, if you the signal on, the signal noise will go away while the seatbelt chime is on.
In mine that is not the case, with the seat belt chiming on, (BTW all the time, as I rarely use my seat belt, it is terribly annoying) you still are able to hear the directional signal clicking...one does not overlap the other, nor make one go away...I'm not saying that is not coming from speakers, just that both are audible at the same time...Even online they sell the flashers, but unless I confirm that is a doable option with some members with previous experience, I will not go for them...
Problem with door ajar sensor
in Audio, Backup, Navigation & SYNC
Posted · Edited by Kanatronic
That plunger is to hold the door while you open it, nothing there, the sensor is on the latch, but most of the time is not the sensor, is the connector on the door to the car...they charge you an arm and a leg to replace those unless under warranty....