Kanatronic

OK let's do this, I give you my foam ones, you give me your cargo management, tire cover included, and I will drop $50.00 on top, given that you do not want to open the trunk prematurely, I think that $50.00 is a good incentive to open it right?..... :shades:

It seems that we are still a long way to go in order toget something really effective for our vehicle, same as the bumper frnt and back protectors and the the matching nerf bars...but we are patient enough, it will be good to know if maybe from other vehicles we can find one that will work or at least have the same curvature, so we can stick it with 3M tape...

No pictures yet?

I'll trade it for an oil filter, and a mask, I got a few FRAM oil filters in Wallmart the other day for $3.00 on a sale as they were relocating merchnadise.....but only if it is better than the Motorcraft one...That one is pretty flimsy and the holes are too big, I want one HEPA/NASA Compatible... :shades:

Sorry but why do you think Ford implemented it? It is not a marketing plug, as you said, the ones who do not believe on it, will never do, or maybe just for funny, or to follow a fashion, of course not, the cabin filters, and maybe not in US, but in other countries nobody will get a car without it, you will not sell a car without it, the same way many "stupid things" are implemented...

BTW, you are absolutely right on one thing, my AC, or heater, is all the time working in my car, one of the two, simply here it is too hot, or too cold, and I never open the windows at all, and while the weather is just bearable, I use the fan, but something is always on there, that is for sure, simply as that. First the dust, pollen and crap, that I avoid cleaning, and some of them, also affect my allergies, and second the road noise, I prefer the cabin to be close and just listening music, as opposed to hear all the noise of engines and wind that cross my windows...

Of course while you get in and out of the car you open the doors, and I'm not saying that we need to be around with a cosmonaut overcoat suit neither, and I'm not saying that I like to avoid outdoors (I like to avoid "noisy" outdoors, and the ones with "tons of dust, and pollen", the first because is not needed, and the other two as I'm alergic...) but the truth is that at the end of the day, many of us, by nowadays working and life conditions, are everyday less and less expose to the outdoors, and mainly due to the "benefits of modern life"...It is not a good thing in many cases, but is what indeed happens.

Also you can not compare the amount of air, that goes inside the car, while the car is parked, and you get out and in, than when you roll down a window at 60mph on a highway, the amount of dust that will go inside is ten times as much to be conservative...

I asked in another thread about the aftermarket cabin air filters, unfortunately it seems that nobody makes them yet for our vehicle, at least not any good one...BTW how long do you think that it takes for that fan to pass through the filter the whole very small volume of air inside a cabin, have you ever tried to find out? Well with the filter in good condition, and running not to high, just in minutes, the volume inside any car is really small, and probably in less than 20 minutes you have filtered all the air inside the cabin, of course the filter is not HEPA, so you will always have particles around and as you said, the cabin is not airtight neither, but the system will remove the majority of the particles that will be harmful...otherwise and trust me on that, Ford will avoid to place them, that is a corner that they can easily cut, and indeed in many of them they do...

Just for your info, the amount of contaminants they remove is not that small as you think it is:

"...An automotive cabin air filter’s effectiveness for removing airborne particles was determined both in a laboratory wind tunnel and in vehicle on-road tests. The most penetrating particle size for the test filter was 350 nm, where the filtration efficiency was 22.9 and 17.4% at medium and high fan speeds, respectively. The filtration efficiency increased for smaller particles and was 43.9% for 100 nm and 72.0% for 20 nm particles at a medium fan speed. We determined the reduction in passenger exposure to particles while driving in freeway traffic caused by a vehicle ventilation system with a cabin air filter installed. Both particle number and surface area concentration measurements were made inside the cabin and in the surrounding air. At medium fan speed, the number and surface area concentration-based exposure reductions were 65.6 ± 6.0% and 60.6 ± 9.4%, respectively. To distinguish the exposure reduction contribution from the filter alone and the remainder of the ventilation system, we also performed tests with and without the filter in place using the surface area monitors. The ventilation system operating in the recirculation mode with the cabin air filter installed provided the maximum protection, reducing the cabin particle concentration exponentially over time and usually taking only 3 min to reach 10 µm2/cm3 (a typical office air condition) under medium fan speed..."

Here is another good article about the air filtration in cabins...

sorry.. not buying into that logic at all.. the 2 do not even equate.

 

we breath this air all the time, driving down the road with the windows open, with the BAMR open, when not in the car.. good lord, in the scheme of things, that filter doesn't really amount to much at the end of the day. Hell, most cars do not even have such a filter and never needed a cabin air filter before in cars - it doesn't really matter now either and it will not make 1 single difference in life or health at the end of the day. Nor does it do anything for the car.

 

However, the filter on actual engine oil or fuel filter can keep you car from being seriously damaged - and so it does matter.

Well not 100% accurate, first it removes dust that otherwise need to be removed from the car manually, on the dashboard and carpets, etc...secong not sure about you, but as a general rule, we spend 8 hours working, some of us in closed offices, later on at least 6 to 8 hours sleeping at home, we do have home AC or heater, that is also filtered, and mainly all windows are all year closed, at least in this area, so the time you spend in the outdoors could not be that much unless you work outdoors...I spend not much time in my car, that is true, but some people travel up to a couple of hours on them on top of those above, and personally I never roll down a window, what for? To get dust inside the car, and breathe all that crap later on...

Now about the oil filter, do not be so sure that the engine will not be protected if you remove it, the same way in the first cars made, we did not have oil filter neither...LOL...But in honor of the truth, we replace the oil usually far before to the point that it becomes really bad for the motor internal parts, an need to be really filtered, as per the metal particles, the oil pan has a big magnet that attracts and trap there the bigger metal parts that are the real danger for the motor, and that happen sometimes before the oil pased through the filter, so if you replace the oil, and change the filter, and do not remove the oil pan to clean it, at least once in a while, you still may have some of the crap inside the motor anyway...so do not be so sure that the oil filter is protecting you too much...maybe in car that the oil flows only by pressure like the Corvette, that is true.......of course if there is something to be trapped, it will be trapped there, but not always you "really need it" just as a curiosity in your next oil change, ask for the old oil filter and open it...have you even open an old oil filter from a properly maintained car??? I did just for curiosity once and because it broke anyway, and it was not that bad, any filter from any vacum cleaner just used once, is far worst, and that one was with conventional oil, and we all know that syntetic is even more stable...I'm not saying that you do not need it, but you may not have any "real serious damage" to protect your engine from, if you change the oil regularly, and use good quality syntethic oil...

so people will buy the oil filter for the engine but wont spend a few dollars to filter the air you breathe. Thats an interesting healthplan.

You just hit the nail right in the head... ....of course that is if the person is interested in breath cleaner air, otherwise is a waste for them...for me is must, and my mesh (and is not wire, is nylon) was pretty dirty in six months, so go and figure how will be my lungs!!!

But I agreee that it could be cheaper, I paid 16.00 for that paper crap.... :wacko:

That happen in all cars, not only Ford, maybe in other cars you do not see those black straps as they are below level, but if you roll down the wondows you will see them full ofcrap as well, that is why they are there, to remove the crap from the glass while you roll down the windows, like a brush....

Crank power is an "instant power", you can not draw continuosly 500A from any battery without drying it for too long, 5 Farad caps will give you the same, caps are used as "reserve current" just for the peaks, they will not old any amp running for too long neither....

On the other side ClassD amps, while more efficient, are by far anything but audiophile quality amps. Audiophile amps are usually designed around Class A or Class AB (worst scenario) topologies and they require enormous heatsinks and fans for the heat dissipation. Class D amps were just created for the automotive industry later on to give you more power, but at the expenses of the sound quality. Just take a look around, and you will not find too many amps for home use, designed around Class D topologies.

Also do not forget that the energy is not created or destroyed, it is just transformed into other differet types, one of those, not all what you give to an amp is just for musical bliss, as in any other electronic device, you will have heat. So if you have 1000 watts per channel, you are disscipating at least, another 500-1000 watts just in heat, that is a lot of heat, so you may need around 30% more current to be drawn from the same 12volts battery, just ot keep you warm inside...not a big deal in winter time though... :shades:

Anyway, as I told you, any of those figures, are by far, safe for the hearing, less in that little volume as is of the interior of any car, and I have seen many fellows get the hearing busted, so please use it with caution, you do not need that much, that's it...just a healthy advice...

That statement was based on my experience and a little bit of research... I can't say it is fact... but...

I did hook up an aftermarket amp and 12" sub to the stock sub outputs of the nav unit and as I turned up the volume the bass dropped out.. not just a lttle bit but almost all of it. This led me to chase down what was going on...

 

so I hit google and a few forums and most agreed... for the protection of stock speakers most stock head units do whats called "roll off" in the bass department.

 

All research pointed to proccessing units like the RE-Q if I wanted to keep the stock head unit and add subs.

I opted to just replace the whole system as I have had no experience with these type units.

 

I'm not a "boomer" as most of the music I like is acoustic or "live". So a well rounded sound is what I look for.

 

I can appreciate a different point of view but, to me it seems as if this "bass roll off" is common practice.

The bass roll off for safety reasons is not new, but what I'm trying to say is that is a lot easier to place that protection outside the headunit, rather than inside, and compromise the design, and what sense does ti make to even place it on a headunit that is intended to be used with a subwoofer and an amp after? Now in your case, it could be due to several reasons, impedance mismatch, reversed polarity, etc...or maybe it was indeed the way it was designed, I'm not discarting that posibility neither, just that is hard for me to beleive it, and I also tested it, and I did not feel it, but who knows maybe you are right...Now there are some subwoofer ams that include that correction internally, no need of aftermarkets units, anf they will integrate better...honestly for the volume that use, that is not so low neither, what I have is more than enough, and if i ever replace it is just looking for something more refined, but honestly I od not see me doing it...BTW I hear heavy metal, hard rock, classic rock, jazz, fussion, NAM, acoustic also, etc...some of those require sometimes a little extra thump!!!

Say what you want, we all like different stuff, put what you want in your Edge, after all, its yours. I dont care what you like, and I dont care what you think about what i like, and i dont care if you think 5000 watts is stupid. I'm not dissin you because you like your music "Natural" after all i'm probably way younger then you and i like my bass, so please don't put me down and what i like and enjoy.

I did not try to put you down sorry if you believe so, and I really apologize if you misunderstood me, I was just talking in general, not just in reference to your particular case, and please do not feel offended, but the hearing is a sense that once it goes down, will be down forever, and I absolutelly appreciate to have mine as long as I can, so I encourage others to do it. Not sure if you think the same way, and to protect it is by far wiser than stupid, but do not expect that any sane manufacturer will create a system around 5Kwatts, as 5000Watts, in that small volume, is seriously attempting against your hearing, so please for your own safety, just stop doing it...a healthy advise...

Now let's talk a little bit about other topics, first IME this kind of power is not posible, from the design point of view, and they can claim all the want, and I do not care who is, but you have only 12volts from the battery most of the times, and in order to get 5000watts RMS, from 12volts, you may need roughly 400A from the battery or more, and that is considering the amp will be 100% efficient, which is not posible neither, so it will let go at least like one third of that in heat, we are talking of easily 550A or more, do your math from that point on, but at least I do not know of many auto batteries capable of providing such current continuosly, and even in the peaks is really hard...

Keep in mind the stock head unit (the audiophile w/nav unit anyway) cuts the bass as you turn it up.

This can be corrected with the use of a MTX Re-Q, users on this board say they work very well.

Who said that the stock headunit cuts the bass while you crank it up? I could understand that someone wants to change the stock unit, and install a far better and more refined unit, and I'm not talking of an stupid 5Kwatts, amp, I'm talking about audiophile stuff, natural musical sound, with all freq at the level they should be, not just noise to rattle the trunk and windows.

Sorry but while I measured it, using a CD with tones centered at given freqs, from 20Hz to 20Khz, just to correct the levels in volume, and set the right volume for the subwoofer amp, while I replace my stock speakers with the DLS I have now, I was not able to find any anomaly along the spectrum, at any volume. The stock subwoofer amp, and the stock subwoofer itself, just integrates nicely into the sound, as intented giving you a very natural sound. I'm talking of the right way to set a system, not what you see in those Civic's across the street with rattling trunks.

What you probably have read (maybe in Crutffield, and similar stores, that by coincidence they sell the MTX device as well, which BTW is integrated by default in mainly all audiophile subwoofer amps, so no need of adding more crap to the system, and deteriorate the system any further) is that the stock system have protection for the doors speakers (some kind of roll off, or bass filter) but first there is not real need of doing it, as the door speakers given the size and shape, will hardly hit 100Hz, where the subwoofer should begins to work, what will destroy them is the extra power and not the bass, as they simply do not have the guts for that, and will begin the roll off far before that mark. Also it will be a lot easier, and actually is most of the times what they indeed do, to install that limtation on the xover box of the speaker itself, rather than on the headunit (a simple filter in pararell will work wonders)

Just think about this, what sense does that make to add a subwoofer with an amplifier, to a headunit that will cut, particularly the only freq that the subwoofer is intended to reproduce...There is absolutelly no need for any design to make such absurd compromise...

I strongly doubt that anybody can find any oficial info with the specs of that headunit, or any manual from the manufacturer, or any measurement that anybody had made, just to back this up, and honestly I do not feel it is true at all...

alright i have an 07 with navi, and i want to add my 15 inch subs but the main thing thats holding me back is i kinda want to keep the oem navi but the down side to that is the distortion using the oem head unit, and i cant control my ipod from the screen plus id need crossovers and all that junk.. the main reason i want to use the oem unit is because i want to keep all the steering wheel controls, the down side to that is i cant have movies or music videos playing while i drive. i seen a post on here where someone installed i believe a pioneer head unit (cant seem to find the post) and the steering controls were compatable? basically i just want to know what i would need to keep the factory navi with the BEST sound quality, and around how much that would cost, or if i should invest into a new double din like that pioneer one and just hook up the subs that way..

 

suggestions? comments are welcome, sorry if some of this dont make sense i wrote it up in a hurry

The headunit is fine, iti s made by Pioneer IIRC, and it does not sound bad, but in the last case that you can not power the subs 15" properly the subwoofer amp will be the one ot blame, ...the headunit itself will not distort, but you may get a clipping on the stock amp if the drivers are not very efficient as usual in 15" drivers, and may need a lot of power to reach their optimal potential...a new amp will do the trick, but first IMO you should try the stock amp to see...then if not, just add a more powerful sub-amp, we have nowdays digital amps that are able to give you a very high SPL's with very little power, and just feed it with the same headunit....but man multiple 15" subs, you gotta be kidding, you will have other problems, vibrations, noise, diarrea, dizziness, qualms, tantrums, etc...I'm assuming that you are one of these bassheads that cross my town everyday...LOL...to me 8" is enough, to go to 15" will be completelly drastic, and more than one, even more crazy, just as a comparison, here home I have only one 12" sub and is more than enough, if I crank it up, I will be out of the building more sooner than later, and just to cover a lot more extensive area, and for a very nice sounding system...

The does car make a sound also, like the same sound it makes while the seat belt is not on, every time it indicates sokmething it makes both visual and audible warnings, on top it begins to warn you like 50 miles before getting empty according to the math it does, that IMO is not even close to reality...so yes you have both audible and visual warnings...if not please consult your manula and take it ot the dealer...

I am not aware of any identically sized non-oem filters in Canada but haven't looked to hard.

 

I can appreciate the allergy issue but given that the AC on my 2008 isn't exactly blowing a hurricane of wind in to the cabin I am reluctant to "tighten up" the filtration rating which would likely reduce the already weak air flow.

 

Until recently cabin air filters and hepa filters didn't exist in cars. Now my shop vac and dust buster have "hepa" filters. I am fortunate enough to not have allergies so most of these filters are of little value to me.

 

If you wanted to see a rip off check out what the Honda Vans need in terms of cabin air filters. The first replacement on our 2003 involves actually cutting parts out in order to access and replace the cabin air filter. The filters are way more expensive and if you get the dealer to do the work its well over 100.00 for the first replacement.

I mean you have to see it to believe it, it is completely flimsy, I'm not against of those filters to be so thin, as they can be well done, and remove particles anyway, but in this case is both, it is thin, and on top the holes are not so small so the particles will go inside the vehicle...

Not that it should be HEPA, but honestly any piece of 1.4 foam will do a better job than this stupid filter...and on top $16.00....TYC offers a OE replacement for $3.74, and I trusting Motorcraft did not get it, but see below the specs:

In my opinion what Honda does, do not justify others to do the same, two wrongs do not make a right, let Honda do what they want, that was in the first instance why I opted for a Ford and not for a Honda, I have worked in a repair shop/gas station in the past, and I have seen the owners to suffer the devastating repair costs. I recall once $72.00 for just a ball bearing imported from Japan...the NASA uses cheaper parts IIRC....LOL....

Just don't call them to "activate" your account. On my F-250 I was listening for free well over 1 year. I had an old Sirius account I wanted switched over, so when I called I officially started my 6 month free (already over a year into it). They have no idea when the vehicle is sold, it could just be sitting on the lot for a long time. So if the satellite radio is playing when you buy the car you're good to go for a while. I recently cancelled my account and refunded the money from my F250. I want to see how long I can go with this car....

Well that may be in the past, but now they work diffrently, at about the six months period, they sent you a "service message" that you should call them to "activate the account", being the dealer or the owner need to call and activate it, (or extend it, as I supposed that the dealers may have a way of extending it if the car is not sold by then) otherwise you can only hear the weather channel...at about one month of being using my car they put the freaking phone number on the dash and period, I had to call them...

BTW they offer the "free internet service", that still doesn't work in Vista...

White was more of a tan than a white - here's the wire colors going to the back of the head unit - I've noted the pin# (larger 24 pin connector of the 2) for the signals I spliced into:

 

Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: White/Red

#02 Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Blue (remote-out)

Car Radio Ground Wire: Black/Blue

Car Stereo Antenna Trigger: Yellow/Green

Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: Purple/Red (didn't use this)

---

#08 Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): White

#21 Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): White/Brown

---

#11 Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): White/Purple

#12 Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): White/Orange

---

#09 Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): White/Green (didn't touch this)

#22 Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Yellow (didn't touch this)

---

#10 Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown/White (didn't touch this)

#23 Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Blue (didn't touch this)

 

 

Mounted the Re-Q and the sub's amp under the front pass seat - see the pic. Good clearance, protected, and easy access to settings, but then my pass seat is a manual...

 

Ran the +12V sub amp cable through the driver's side firewall bushing containing the main fuse block's wire bundle. Made a small cut (very carefully!) in the boot next to the bundle and pushed the 8ga power cable through it.

 

For the Re-Q's power, I Yed off the amp's +12V and Ground connectors. Don't confuse the Re-Q's rmt-IN (from #02 above) and rmt-OUT (to the sub's amp).

Be careful with the polarity on the speakers, in mine they were reversed, not sure why they did that, the white cable was connected to the negative, and the black ot the positive, I know as I used Metra connectors and those have the polarity marked, and thye were opposite in color to the stock configuration...maybe they have different codes...

The Edge comes with either one, the filter or the grill, not both. mine has a manual climate control system, so I have only the grill as stock...I felt that the holes were too big to be efficient enough to catch all the pollen, and as I'm allergic, I decided to get a better filter to replace the grill. While looking there and as I already have both, I noticed that they fit perfectly and I inserted both there, as you can see, but honestly you do not need the grill if you have the filter already...

What I feel is that the Motorcraft filter is pretty crappy, and the holes are still too big, I ahve been dealing with filters my hole life given my allergies, so I know what a good filter is, and honestly any 1/4 closed cell foam will do a far better job trapping pollen that this filter at 16.00 a piece....to me a total rip off...

BTW does anybody had tried a better quality filter made by K&N, Boss, TYC, etc...<aybe a multilayer with activated charcoal, or baking soda, to remove unpleasant oddors comming in or so...

Here are a few pics of the process, first the FP-65 Motorcraft Filter Box that arrived today, for what it is honestly 16.00 is a rip off, it is far better to place a piece of thin foam on top of the grill there, and will remove more dust and pollen than this thing, the holes on the filter are pretty big for that task IMO:

Filter top side:

Filter bottom side:

Compartment with the cover:

Compartment with the cover removed:

Here is the "infamous grill" removed:

 

 

This seems to be the part number, at least that is the only number I found on it:

Finally I decided to place both in, they fit like a glove, and just for safety reasons, the grill after the filter makes no sense at all, but the filter alone had not much support under it, and it is right on top of the fan. I didn't see too much extra security, or support for it other than the filter shape itself (and it is pretty flimsy BTW) so if for any reason it gets wet, or goes inside it will get stock with the fan, and create more damage than benefits:

I have tried several brands and more or less all of them will give you the same results, mine is Vapor Silver, not the best color for a show neither: just name it Mothers, Turtle, Meg, Zaino, Zymol, Simmoniz, all of them are made out of the same things, Carnuba Wax in different concentrations and diluted, or a Polymer mix, all of those with just a few exceptions, have been in the market for at least 25 years or more, and all of these guys are very familiar with the know how of creating very good products...I personally like Meg products, but to say that one is better than other, without taking into consideration the human factor, temperature, tools used, quality of the paint and surface, the actual physical condition, and experience of the operator, is just pure speculation, the most important thing is the right way of applying it...

I personally try to avoid solid and paste wax, as the white residue is a pain to be removed later on, so I prefer the no haze applications or polymers, with no white residue, like ICE and some of the Meg products, just for pure protection and a little better look after the car wash, and period...I will not participate in any event not will run for a prize...The few times I have taken the car to a pro-detailer, have never been better than while I personally apply it, so I stopped doing it, as those places are not cheap at all...

As a side note, last week I went to a place to wash the underside of the car, here they use tons of salt on the winter time, and guys this little Mexican after lifting the car like a mechanic, spent literally more than one hour, bathing it with a solvent fluid (with an smell similar to the WD-40) but at very high pressure, and later on with another pressure hose cleaned and washed that darn thing all around, and later on, the engine.....Oh man while they finished, the car was like new on the underside, all the residues of salt, mud, dust, even rust on the exhaust pipes were all gone, all labels and stickers were white like new, and all rubber things were like just placed...!!!!

got a photo of this 'screen'? we have seen the filter, but I am curious to see the screen.

Lex I ordered the FP-65 filter yesterday, as soon as I get it, I will post the picture of the grill for you, I do not want to open this thing again just for the picture, there is too much pastic involved there, that could break.... :wacko:

The scratch remover may work for glossy surfaces, but not for anodized aluminum, once you begin to apply it, the anodized begind to fade, and you will have a shinny spot, also if the scratch crossed some of the white lines, you are screwed as the lines will go as well...

This was the first auction I found, but we have seen others, and for 15.00 I would give it a shot, of course if they were like new, and not with the scratches, like this one....

The other option is to get these trim sets some guys sell as aftermarket, in wood, silver, black, etc...there are several manufacturers (or sellers) that will get you a whole set, the drawback is that they are not cheap, and honestly I do not like any other I have seen as to go for them, maybe the wood, but that doesn't go with the Edge at all, IMO...maybe a couple of chromed grills for the side vents but nothing else...

BTW the last scratch remover I got was 10.00 plus tax, so any scratch remover will cost you, they are not cheap...

Mine has the screen, the only advantage is that it is washable, as the screen is plastic, the downside is that the holes are a lot bigger than argular paper or whatever filter is made of.

I was thinking in using both, but after a closer inspection, to use both makes no sense, as the screen will be after the filter then, so no particles will be trapped by it, and the filter will not be protected from the big particles as well...mine for being 6 moths old was pretty dirty, a lot of polen and vegetable material on top...I will place the filter as soon as I get it, as that will aloow me to remove some of the main causes of my alergies. nad on top if you spray it with any car air freshener it will keep my new car scent going in.....

BTW it works for both outside intake, and inside intake air circulation, as the window that governs the flow or air, is imediately before the filter...

Help, I have 2 scratches on my brushed aluminum dash panel. I'm looking for any ideas on how to (if possible) remove or buff the scratches out. I was thinking about using brasso but don't want to cause further damage. If anybody had this same problem or has any ideas let me know. Love my edge but some details of the interior where made on the cheap side including my problem. Thanks for your help!

Your best bet is to replace it, get one on eBay the other day I posted one link ot an auction for one and it was not that expensive...

Here's the product info:

 

Manufacturer: Sportwing

Model #: BCM-52 (the website doesn't say anything about thickness; this model is 1/8" thick)

Link: Bumper Cover

For what I can see the product in the link is not the same as on the website, this is the one with the horizontal stripes, unless they use in both cases thesame picture....

Note: I emailed them and it seems that was an error, they replaced the picture for the right one now...