Kanatronic

Has anybody had tried to replace the stock subwoofer with this one:

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=267-2510

It seems to be a serious upgrade over the stock one, I manage to get onefor real cheap, and honestly it will give you more volume in the box, and also a lot more refined design...but I could not find any link that shows how to remove the old one, I know that sometime back it was a description, even with pics, on how to remove the stock one, I was not able to find it now....Does anybody knows where to get that info????

The funny thing is that it flashes quick only while using the directionals, but if you use the hazard light, pressing the front switch, it flashes normal, and the load is the same in both cases, why doing while quick flashing on the directionals, and while using the hazard light it flashes normal, I do not get it, if they use the same BCM???

The resistor loads is not an option, they are huge and we have no place to hide them in the back lights, unless we ran a long cable...IF they do not have flashers why the noise in the cabin while flashing??? It looks that come from one of the electric panels...

Yes but how to replace them? And where are they located??? That is the main question...

There is a non heated version as well, I got mine,as mine were not heated, and I do not want them to be heated...I got both and it was a 5 minutes job, screwdriver in twist, mirror out, press firmly and mirror in, adjust and that's it...

Part numbers:

9T4Z-17K707-A

9T4Z-17K707-C

There is a non heated version as well, I got mine,as mine were not heated, and I do not want them to be heated...I got both and it was a 5 minutes job, screwdriver in twist, mirror out, press firmly and mirror in, adjust and that's it...

Part numbers:

9T4Z-17K707-A

9T4Z-17K707-C

Thanks Dingo, by any chance do you recall how many clips are needed to be undo to get it out, they are a lot of them...

Not talking about any light, or sensor, it is just a mirror with a blind spot little mirror on the outter top corner, the 2008 model does not come with it, just a plain flat mirror, that's all, no special features, not even heated mirrors...anyway i just order a pair let's see if they fit

Sorry that i was not clear enough, but I want to replace only the glass assembly, not the whole mirror assembly, just to upgrade the glass to the Blind Spotted ones,

BTW the last time I checked around they were around $85.00 each, now they are running for like $220.00 a pair, any idea if there is any place where we can get them cheaper...all dealers around this area have more or less the same price.... :o

Do you have any pics on how to remove the mirror itself, I was trying to find out a video or so but I have not been able to find it, I want to upgrade to the new blid spot ones, and I want if posible to do it myself...

There is a non heated version as well, I got mine,as mine were not heated, and I do not want them to be heated...I got both and it was a 5 minutes job, screwdriver in twist, mirror out, press firmly and mirror in, adjust and that's it...

Part numbers:

9T4Z-17K707-A

9T4Z-17K707-C

Do you know what kind of warranty they offer? For now I have three of the BS i ordered from Oracle, but not sure how long they will last...

Does anybody know of Ford finally addressed the problem with te sockets?

_{Is there any actual reliable led for the taillights, and directionals? I have tried like 5 of the aftermarket solutions and all of them had failed miserably after a few months of use, some leds get burnt and stop working, last time I ordered them was from urbanneoncarlights and they offered lifetime warranty, for my surprise while I contacted them after the last fail, they stopped carrying the lifetime warranty and offered me a lousy two year with the putco manufacturer, I placed a new order with them, this time oracle LEDs, not even closed to the ones pictured, and one came out shot, they refused to replace it, and while contacting the oracle company it seems that they are not authorized dealers either of their products, so right now I'm screwed trying to find a good set for my 2008....as i do not want to use bulbs again due to the burnt sockets issue...two times replaced them....}

Hi Guys:

I replaced my bulbs in the tail lights and directional by LEDs, as you know they still keep on burning the sockets, two replacements on the row, but as a result, now the LEDs flash a little fast, I was wondering how to replace the flasher by an electronic one, but which to get? and where is it located so I can replace it?

Any help will be really apprecialted....thanks

 

 

My driver side turn signal went out for the second time the other day. (I have replaced the passenger side once already...bought the car in Sep. 2009) Anyways, as you can hopefully see from the pictures, the bulb was completely toasted. The plastic part was also melted. The socket was melted too, but I didn't think to take a picture of it too. I will when the new bulbs come in that I ordered that were recommended in earlier posts. I will be calling Ford this week. I bought new sockets and am ordering both bulbs. I really hope this will fix the problem! I will drive with them for a month after installing and I will recheck them. Then I'll post on here whether they are smoked again or not. Obviously this is a problem and I think Ford should address them! And it seems as though the newer ones still have the problem also as I seen someones post that said he had a 2011 with only around 5500 miles on it. Haven't really had any problems with the car other than a wheel bearing going out, which it seems is normal for these also. Might have another one going out now too.... (sigh) Why can't they make things that last like they used to? lol

You will have them burned again, I replaced mine three times before going to LEDs, and period end of the story...

Guys does anybody know which is that flasher of the tailights that we can replace for an electronic one, in which fusebox it is located?

Just replaced our 3rd bulb and the plastic on the bulb itself was melted. I ordered a set of LED bulbs for the rear to eliminate the problem. All you need to do is switch the flasher from a "mechanical" to an "electronic" flasher ($7), they look identical and make the LED's blink correctly since they don't draw near the load as a filiment. I already did a set in my factory superduty lenses.

I heard about that some time ago, wpould you mind to post pics of where that flasher is located, and which to get from the market?

2010 Limited,19556 miles: I had the r/r stop lamp go out,indicator on dash,arrow was faster on r/s indicating lamp out,replaced lamp with Wagner 3157 and found charred socket. I replace l/s lamp to find same socket issue.

I was at an account that has 211 Ford Escape Hybrids that are Taxis,they have the same problem with the sockets burning,I got 2 new sockets,they were the same part numbers.

 

To add Led's you need to use a LED flasher or add a load resistor to keep the same flash rate or not to trigger the lamp out indicator,Marty

You do not need to add anything, I have it directly replaced, it is true that is flashes slightly faster, but is not that bad, I do not want to go into modifying any further...and we do not have too much space to add the resistor, so if you find a way of replacing the current flasher by a LED flasher, please let us know which you used, and where it is located...

First I want to thank all for the posts about EVERYTHING.

I feel like an idiot for believing the service manager's 'never seen this before' attitude.

My issues are the PTU 'Smell', and the tail-lights.

 

I have 2009 AWD SEL at 30K miles (15 months of driving... )

PTU issue is being dealt with, now on to the burnt tail lights.

 

Left failed at 22K miles last August, Right has failed 2x in the past month.

Both charred badly. Replaced with 'generic' bulbs which seem to be indicated by the owners manual.

 

I will be pushing for resolution on the bulbs/sockets.

 

Although the stories about rear-end fires are frightening, are we sure that the tail-lights are a reasonable suspect?

We will never know for sure if they are the reason or not, as Ford will never admit it anyway, I read that that was the cause in the European MK, not sure...regardless they will not be like that, and they should not get burnt, and what is worst at least they should have the decency of admitting the problem as opposed to try to find a ridiculous excuse every time we go to them with burnt sockets...

I have only had LED bulbs installed on my Edge for a couple of weeks. Do you have a link to the bulbs you are using?

They send me today the replacments, these are the ones I'm using now:

http://www.urban-neon-car-lights.com/car-lights/3157-ledbulb.html

BTW, they are not exactly alike to those on the picture, mine had only 3 leds on the top, as they now are making them with only three leds on the top, those they said are the old ones, with five, they said that they improved the quality and got brighter leds....????....Indeed they are very bright, but just lasted a few months...at least the first pair, lets see the second for how long...one thing is sure I will send the next media mail, to save in shipping, and they will keep on replacing them till the day I die, or give me my money back....LOL...

I wasn't sure what you had paid, but that is usually the problem. I still say you should try out V-LED's. I did a full LED conversion using V-LED's on a previous vehicle and had no issues for the 3 years I had them. I just converted my Edge to LED as well. For example, these are the bulbs I chose for the front parking/signal: http://www.v-leds.com/Exterior-LED/Parking-Light-LED/Amber-LED/V-LEDS-AMBER-92-M-SMT-p7470676-1-2.html

As a curious thing I have not had any issues with the amber LEDS, just the reds, I had my parking replaced since day one with the cheaper ones, with no problems till now, of course those are prone to less use/abuse than the brake turning signals on the back, as it seems that while you apply the brakes the LEDs receive the double of the power...

As I said before, they will replace them under warranty, and I hope that will be an isolated issue, as they carry lifetime warranty, but at some point if the problem persists I may need to replace them for a new better type....BTW for how long have you had this in the Edge, I'm assuming that for some reason maybe is the lighting design in the Edge, even while 12v from the battery are pretty much alike in all cars...

With LED's you get what you pay for. I use V-LED's and have never had an issue.

I'm using now the ones sold by Urban Neon Car Lights, the ones made by Putco, and they are $50.00 a pair with lifetime warranty, not cheap at all, let me tell you, and they lasted 3 months, prior to those from another cheaper around $40.00 a pair, and lasted 8 months...so price is not a direct relation with the quality as in everything else, I'm just looking for some reco regardless of price, of someone that thad used them for years with no problems, just to get them, for now they have lifetime warranty, but everytime I send them back is $5.00 shipping, so at some point, I may have to stop and looking for better ones....

BTW V-LEds offer only 90 days return policy, and one year warranty, IMO that is not safe enough accordign to my experience, trust me that those will fail miserably before the year of use...they are the same type I used before...

Hi guys:

I have been using several types of LEDS in my taillights with no success till the date, I have run already like 5 pairs, and all they fail miserably after a few months of use, in one way or another, does any of you have had a better luck with good bulbs?...Is there any other option to the burnt sockets yet?

The front door speaker contains the tweeter crossover filter.

 

If you look at the second photo of the door speakers (with fuchsia colored label) you will see the main wiring harness feed from the head unit located on the bottom of the speaker basket. The tweeter crossover filter electronics to the left of the fushia label/magnet and the tweeter wiring harness connector to the right of the fushia label/magnet .

 

There are two components wired to the positive side, and electrically in parallel, of the mid-range door speaker.

The first component is the light blue colored electrolytic capacitor with the value of 7uF, 50V, made by M.D.L. http://www.mdl.com.tw/

The second black colored component in series is not identified with any markings. It looks to be a coil of some type.

 

BTW, the cones of these speakers are made of paper. The speaker surrounds look to me to be made of a lightly rubberized foam.

(For representation purposes only, click link: http://www.speakerworks.com/v/vspfiles/assets/images/surround_pic.gif )

The plastic speaker grill seems to be glued to the speaker surround. If you attempt to remove the speaker grill you will most likely permanently damage the paper speaker cone or the surround.

7uF is definitely the crossover for the tweeter, as per paper cones, well in the audiophile world, paper cones are considered as top notch and natural sounding, along with silk tweeters, of course that is another of the myths, the best I have heard are aluminum, titanium, and solid wood (Vifa made some out of bamboo, that are really sweet sounding) and some made of polimers (Alesis has some wofers made out of polimers that were initially design for aeronautic industry, specially combat planes) that sound pretty good to me, the other component is probably a coil, or a windwire resistor, usually coils are placed in paralell, to remove high freq to reach the woofers, and if not in paralel it could be a windwire resistor to add a couple of ohms to the equation and tame a little bit the high freqs...but who knows how they designed the crossover

The following photos are of the A-pillar tweeters, front door mid-range and rear door 2-way coaxial speakers from a 2010 Edge Limited which comes standard with a nine speaker (incl. subwoofer) Premium Audio system.

Definitely those speakers look better than the ones on my Edge, and SEL, they are indeed 6x9 or whatever, the ones on our Edge is round with a tweeter on top a combo...those are true coaxials...as per the tweeters I floored to see how good they are, it seems that auto manufacturers are taking audio into consideration lately, and probably those speakers are made by a good manufacturer, VIFA for example do not sell for a premium prices and the drivers are very good...

Another thing if you look they have a filter in the speaker not sure fi they are cutting the low freq to the mids or the high for the tweeters...if you tell me the values i could figure out what they are indeed....