tmarsh

Yeah he contacted the locksmith that did it and hes not sure what to do either.

My grandfather has a 2013 limited. He had two fobs, lost one, bought another and had a locksmith program it. So now on the two fobs(original and new), they start and lock/unlock the car but neither will remote start the engine. What can I have him do? Hes in AZ and Im in MI or I would hop on it with forescan.

I didnt hear that. Thats pretty neat. So but if your phone is dead and you use the keypad to unlock the door, the engine will still start as long as you entered with a valid code? Ill have to look up the parts necessary to make that work when it comes out. Gotta be some module in there somewhere connected into CAN. Programming it would be the issue.

The car had this noise when I test drove it at the dealership. After I bought it, I had my sister drive while I probed around. Drives me insane as well. Other than the subwoofer area, the Edge is pretty quiet thankfully. I tried to quiet down the back quarter panel covering the sub by putting felt in between- it made it better in some areas but worse in others. Can't come up with a fix for it. Any ideas? Its too big of a void back there for expanding foam, which I have used in the past as well and does work great.

Alright so It took me while to figure this out. The noise had gone away for awhile, then came back for good and tested my patience. Ive had to deal with it every day for the last 3 weeks, and today had a 3 hour drive and had to listen to it the entire time. It is so loud the speakers cannot completely drown it out. So I furiously tore apart the entire back half of the car today to find it. Turns out, nothing was "rattling". When I unbolted the back seats, and lifted out the seat on the passenger side, the mounting plate was stuck to the floor. The previous owner must have spilled an entire can of soda in the crack of the seat. The soda worked its way underneath the seat mounting plate, dried, and became sticky. While driving, the ever so slight flexing and the road causing the seat to vibrate, was somehow making sticky sounds. Similar to your shoes on a sticky floor. I took both backrests out of the car, cleaned the soda off the floor and underside of the seat plates that bolt to the floor, layed down some rubber sheets for the plates to sit on, put everything back together and the noise is gone. Not at all what I expected to be causing such an obnoxious noise, but it was. So for anyone who has or will have this noise in the future, here you go.

Ill do that. Its just an idea. Im not going to sacrifice one of my keys to do it though. Once I finish up current projects I might look for a smaller fob from the focus or fiesta and toy with that. Just need to find out if it is comparable with the different style key on the edge. Im one of those people, when I get an idea Ill get it done someway or another. Always tinkering with something.

That might be hard to replace the battery. Lol That would be cool. But wouldn't be reliable. 1 out of every 5 times I try and unlock my iPhone with the thumb print it doesn't work for whatever reason.

I wanted to start a discussion to see who would have any ideas on this. Or if something exists, let it be known. Has anyone ever thought it would be neat to have the fob for push button start models in your wallet? Because thats something you always have on you. You wouldn't have to worry about keeping track of the key. Touch the handle to unlock, get in and go. Heres what brought me to this idea, I install low voltage systems, access control being one of them. For those that don't know what that is, its a door lock and unlock system. The door has an electric strike or handle, with a reader. If you present a proximity card recognized by the reader, the door unlocks. In most cases, the card is in your wallet or the fob on your keys. Present it to the reader, and door unlocks. At our office we have a giant reader, where I don't have to take my wallet out of my pocket to be in proximity of the reader. I just walk up to the door, reader reads the card from my pocket, door unlocks. Sounds similar to the edge, right? My issue is with keeping track of my keys. My old fusion, I NEVER took the key out of the ignition. I always used the keypad to lock and unlock the door. With the edge, in the summer I do the same, key in the console and use the keypad to lock and unlock. In the winter I can leave the fob in my coat pocket. But I don't always have my coat, I always have my wallet though(unless I forget it at home, but getting in the car and it unable to start will remind me!) Ive tried a lot of things to keep the fob on me in the summer. None seem to really work for me. Does anyone know of something that will work for this? If you disassemble the key down to the chip, it gets pretty small, it would work, but still too big. I wonder if the key fob for a focus or fiesta(the three button egg shaped fob) could be programmed to the edge. Because that fob when taken apart down to the chip may be small enough to comfortably fit in your wallet.

Is there any custom lower grilles for the G2 sport out there? I hate the way it looks. I saw a thread where someone just cut the middle completely out but not a fan personally. I wouldn't mind if I could cut out the honeycombs though but don't have a clean way of doing so. Id really like something like the Webasto Ford Edge, anyone know where that one came from/is it available?

Putting this on hold, as of this morning the Edge is at the dealer with a dead alternator. And of course with the new year, they're closed till wednesday.

No tools necessary? Wow. Alright then. Ill post back when I find the culprit. Thanks!

Ill have to take it out and apart then, is it easy to get out? But I agree about the noise. For 55k the back end of this car is pretty noisy as far as rattles. I dont have issues with noise in the front at least.

I do put them up and down quite a bit (especially the passenger side) for cargo. And that side never goes down all the way without me pushing it. It releases and moves slightly, but I have to push it down(I have the button in the back for auto fold). So maybe the spring is off and rattling? Thats kinda what it sounds like now that I think about it. I cant stand rattles. The second I hear it I tear the panel off and put stuff behind it. But I cant pin this down.

Oops. Hitting wrong buttons. But it is for sure coming from the seat itself, very light, and I mean light punching on the backrest of the seat will cause it to rattle. But punches anywhere else will not cause a rattle in that area. So bumps on the road is enough to move the seat and rattle it.

Not sure what you mean by tab. Im not in front of it at the moment, but if its the seatbelt youre talking about I leave it buckled to prevent it from rattling, because it will.

I have a rattle in my back passenger seat, coming from the hinge area by the buckle. It is a constant rattling while driving, over every damn crack in the road. Has anyone come across this? I have a video of the noise, not sure how to post it.

Lol. Im a tinkerer. If I have free time, Im messing with something. So more often then not, I dive into the unknown on something. My other problem is once I get an idea in my head, theres no stopping till its done. Heres the shifter. The only one I could find that had both buttons and leather was from a focus. The C-Max has leather but only has an overdrive button. The Fusion does not have it in leather. I did not check for the Escape. But all the other models I didn't list have different shifters. Getting the shifter out is a process. Start with removing the upper side trim of the center console. Followed by removing the cup holders. The rest is self explanitory. On the steering column, to get it apart there is a hex head bolt and a torx screw. Once it is apart, here is what you are looking at. The plug for the clock spring is in the red circle, kinda hard to see. All of the steering wheel buttons go through this plug, the airbag is in the plug on the other side, so don't worry about that. Here are the schematics for the wiring and the plug. The circuit in general. The signal is sent from the PCM to both paddle switches. When a switch is pressed, it closes the circuit and sends the signal back to the PCM. Simple stuff there. Here is the pinout of the clock spring connector, C226. Even though this is directly out of a 15 edge service manual, the wires on my 15 sport were not the color listed on the chart. In fact none of them were the same. It happens. You can verify by pins used or by the wire gauge of the wires in it, for those that might not know, the larger the number the smaller the wire. Here is the pin location on the connector C226. This view is of a male plug, looking at it head on. Most connectors have the pins labeled on the face of them. The face is opposite of the side the wires come in on. For those that don't know. The shifter I ordered, had black brown and white wires. The black wire is the common, and will get connected to pin 11. Brown wire is shift up and connects to pin 10. White wire was shift down, and connects to pin 9. I hope this helps!

I will get some pictures of the location on the steering column, the old shifter so you can see how it mounts, and post the wiring schematic on the subject later today.

Well not necessarily plug and play. The handle fits on the shift assembly, because its the same thing but with buttons on the side of it. Unbolt the old one and bolt up the new one, but you still have to wire it in at the steering column to make the buttons work for select shift, as I said in my earlier post.

Yes. Exactly that.

So I got this project finished up today. Start to finish took me 2 hours. Half of that was trying to find a service manual online for access to the wiring schematics. There are only 3 wires, shift up, shift down, and common. No programming, simple circuitry. I used a shift handle from an MK3 focus (12-current), $40 on eBay. Same leather, same brushed chrome finish. Only removed enough of the center console to get to get the shift handle off. Ran a multi conductor wire from shifter to steering column. Pulled the 3 pins from the clock spring for the paddle shifters, and replaced them with the new wires to the shift handle. If you feel inclined to do this, you could use both the paddles and the shift handle in parallel, just tap the new wires into the existing instead of re pinning the connector. I did this to use my paddles for something else, I needed two momentary switches and preferred my shifting be done from the shift handle. My opinion, no further argument needed. If anyone wanted to tackle this, or anything else electrical related, id be glad to help.

Oh man. Theres a shit storm coming your way.

Well said^ Sorry. Double post. Bad internet connection.

Well said^

And I prefer the buttons on the shifter. Which this argument has nothing to do with my original post. I did research and found a shifter to fit. Once I get it installed and working I will report back. It really wont be difficult to do.