tmarsh

LMS said they were not able to change it. But they said it was a forscan thing, and no did not give any code for it. The gear only displays in select shift mode in sport, same as stock tune.

Yes the upholstery looks the same as it did before. Its all one piece that clips together under the backrest. I just rolled it up to gain access to the back. Like if you were going to roll up your jeans to get to your knee.

Yeah I asked LMS when I requested my tunes, and they said it was only possible with forscan. Seems like a forscan thing to me anyway, its in the IPC. Doesnt really have anything to do with the tuning of the engine.

Has anyone come accross adding gear display while in drive and sport(when not using select shift)? It was mentioned early in this thread but no code or location given.

I feel your pain. But, this is something that the dealer wont fix. Fords only fix is to put a sock on the intake to suck in fresh air. But they leave the exhaust wide open to the inside of the seat, doesnt really make it any better.

The least you have to do is find a way to exhaust the warm air outside of the seat. Fords fix it backwards. They put a sock on the intake but nothing with the exhaust, so the inside of the seat still heats up. It is best to do both intake and exhaust obviously especially since youre in there. You could also use plastic electrical conduit or a garden hose and some duct tape I suppose. Doesnt have to be pretty or perfect. But Tims kit is the best you could do.

Here's some pictures of the inside of the Edge seat. I found a better way to gain more access to this, simply roll up the upholstery like you would your pant legs. But be careful of the airbag on the outer side of the seat. Still may be easier for some to take the seat out of the car.

I noticed that as well, dont tow with performance tune.

Thanks for the info. Makes complete sense. The only reason I would switch back and forth between octanes would be to tow, unless they can give me a 93 tow tune. Then Ill stick with 93 all the time. I guess I should just wait and see what they can give me. I also stuck with the performance and tow, I didnt ask for any aggressive or firm shifts.

Got my tuner yesterday in the mail. Another question. When going from an 87 tune to a 93 or vice versa. With 87 in the tank and wanting to run a 93 tune. How empty does the tank have to be of 87 before filling with 93? Are we talking like 0 miles to E with 5 miles left till the gas station or would 50 to E be fine, what do you do? Ill probably run the 93 tune most but Im guessing the tune for towing will be 87. I requested a 93 but I dont know if that would make sense or not.

Yes I got the full kit. I didnt have the sock. Just the exhaust should work for you since you already have the sock. Just make sure the exhaust is exited away from the sock under the seat.

The final test- The seat back now gets so cold to the point that I have to turn it down, or off, and I was only on the road for 20 minutes. The seat back works just as well, if not better than the seat bottom. I recommend buying Tim's kit from the website in my above post. Well worth the work and money. I suppose a custom accessories shop would likely install this for you if you supply them information and instructions.

Alright so I got my kit in the mail from http://seatguru.wixsite.com/fordseatfix#! and didn't waste any time getting it in there. The parts look strong and well made to withstand a toddler kicking the back of the seat. The only issue I had was finding a Torx T6 screwdriver bit at home to remove the screws. But, start to finish took me maybe 15-20 minutes per seat. But I do recommend pulling the seat out of the car for sure. 4 bolts and a few connectors. His website does not have instructions for the Edge, only F-150. Seats are different, but seat coolers are the same. The service manual says to take the seat out of the car(which might make it easier) and then pretty much remove all of the upholstery, separate the seat back from the seat bottom...no. I didn't do any of that, The way I did it, I just put the seat bottom up and forward, with the seat back fully forward. Underneath the seat are two connectors, small yellow connector is the airbag(I recommend depowering the airbag system, or at least unhook your battery for a half hour before starting. Although I didn't do either). Unplug these two connectors and make sure they are loose. Then, there is two bungee cords holding the seat flap to the bottom of the seat, undo these. This exposes the J-channel. The J-channel is your entry way into the seat. I cannot explain in detail how to unhook it, but definitely start on an end and I used a right angle dental pick. Once the J-channel is loose, remove the plastic from the seat pocket, then you can pull up the upholstery enough to get to the blower assembly. Have someone hold the upholstery up for you while you work. This project is a PITA! But well worth it! Grab a case of beer to get you through it. The F-150 seat has zippers on the side to make this job a lot easier, the Edge unfortunately does not have these zippers. Sorry I completely forgot to take pictures while in there. If you look on the website, the inside of the seat looks the same as the F-150, the blower assembly is exactly the same, and routing of the pipes is similar. Here is the area you will be working in. I thought I could at least show something.

I did, but you might not have to. The light may pop out with a screwdriver but Im not sure. To get the panel off, remove the cargo area floor and right side styrofoam storage bin if you have that. Pull off the weather stripping along the right side and bottom of the lift gate jam. Remove the long plastic trim piece surrounding the lift gate latch, it pulls straight up. Then the corner panel, pull it out enough to reach the light.

Ooo that looks fun. You can't open the headlight in any way to get to it. But might be able to get a coat hanger in through the access in the back to pull that ring back up out of the way. I can promise you it is a tedious thing to do. I had to get my turn signal bulb out from inside the headlight on my old fusion. I used two coat hangers. You might be able to tip the headlight backwards/upside down once off the car and shake/jarr it to get the ring to fall back into place. I believe that is just a shroud to keep the light inside of the projector housing.

If anyone is looking for more light in the cargo area, here is an easy/cheap mod for you. I do a lot of stuff out of the back of the Edge (camping, tailgating, work, loading and unloading) and it was way too dark back there. That one light on the side doesn't cut it for me. Also, because I had spare lights, I put lights on the bottom of the bumper to light up my hitch receiver. Because for some reason I am always hooking up and unhooking a trailer in the dark it seems like. Parts I used- these are on each side of the trunk and hitch receiver. https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/led-wired-bolts/miniature-led-license-plate-bolt/1685/ These are in the lift gate. https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/led-wired-bolts/bolt-beam-12mm-led-light/1494/ I wired these directly into the existing light in the cargo area, so they turn on and off when a door/liftgate is opened. You could also utilize the 12v powerpoint in the cargo area, and mount a switch back there somewhere to turn them on and off manually. Pictures- sorry that they are sideways.

Just ordered.

Another question just came up. So you pay for the tuning device. Then do you pay for each individual tune? Or is the database of tunes free once you have the device?

Yes I mostly drive in sport as well. Does anyone know of anyone that uses the tow tune? I do tow a two place seadoo trailer regularly.

Thanks guys. Would you say its worth the money for just daily driving? I probably won't be going to the track at all. I do like horsepower though, and I do like to use it. I have a tune on my supercharged Seadoo, and it is definitely worth it there. And with a tune, is there still a difference between Drive and Sport? I did join the facebook group yesterday actually.

Your sunroof: Hard to tell from the video what exactly the noise is. I had a noise from mine on the left side toward the front. Was more of a buzzing noise. I fixed it by shoving foam in the headliner until it stopped. That is pretty much my fix for any rattles that occur in the car. Have someone else drive, find the rattle, remove the culprit and shove some foam or felt in there. The cooled seats: Im working on this one currently. The seat bottom and back rest are supposed to heat and cool. To be sure things are connected and working, test out the heat function. If you feel the heat on your butt and back, everything is working as it should. The reason you would feel the heat over the cooling, the heat is more efficient. Unfortunately, the dealer is not going to fix this for you unless it is actually broken. If you want the seat cooling to perform as best as possible, you're going to have to DIY. Ive done some research, most of it in the service manual, and found a fix on the F-150 forums. Here is the website to the fix. I ordered the kit as well and am just waiting for it to arrive. He does a great job of explaining how everything works too. http://seatguru.wixsite.com/fordseatfix Before I ordered I took apart the back rest of the passenger seat to see how easy it is to get in there. You're able to get to the blower assembly with minimal disassembly to the upholstery. Just open the bottom of the seat back As to why one seat bottom cools better than the other, one thing I've noticed is it depends on what im wearing. If I wear sweat pants or gym shorts, I feel it right away. If I wear jeans or khakis, it takes longer to feel it, if I feel it at all. This could be your issue. But it may be worth checking under your seat to make sure everything is connected.

I tried searching and found a lot of information, but a few large details are still unclear to me. How do I go about getting a tune? What do I need? From what I understand, I can have 4 tunes plus stock. Is this choosing from a database of tunes? I plan to upgrade my intercooler and cold charge pipe, and BOV, which would have an effect on the tune. How do I retune for that? Never tuned a car before. If someone could educate me(and others who may be lurking) how to go about this, Id appreciate it.

How much boost does a stock 2.7 make? And how much does it make with the LMS 93 tune? I've been wanting a boost gauge and want to utilize as much of the gauge sweep as possible. Like if the car makes 22psi, Ill get a 25psi gauge or whatever is closest. Rather than it making 22psi and having a 60psi gauge. But Ive never come across any actual boost numbers.

That is exactly the issue. I found on the F150 and Explorer forums that there is a guy that custom makes adapter fittings for the blower assembly in the seat to vent the air intake and exhaust below the seat. But, 3 weeks ago I made an order, and have not received the parts, or even a confirmation email of my order. Ive tried contacting him as well. If I hear back from this guy, and receive the parts, I will post back. The assembly in the seat is the same across ford models. Just getting to it is a PITA on the Edge seats. The assembly in the seat, for those that don't know how this works, is a blower with a thermo electric device (peltier). It looks like a small bathroom tile. The peltier, when given voltage, gets hot on one side and cold on the other. When voltage is reversed, the hot and cold sides switch. So the blower, blows air across both sides of this tile. The exuaust, one side goes into the seatback, the other side goes into open air inside the seat. Here lies the problem. The peltier gets hotter than it does cold. SO your heated seat works fine, the hot side is blown into the seat back, and the cold side is blown into open air(still inside the seat) but the peltier is more efficient at heating, so no issue here. The cooling function, voltage is reversed, and the cold side of the peltier gets blown into the seat back. The hot side is blown into open air, but again still inside the seat. Once the inside of the seat gets so hot, and I mean HOT, the blower is now sucking in hot air and the peltier cannot cool down the hot air. The fix, is to exaust the hot air out of the bottom of the seat into cabin air, and have fresh air brought into the blower from the cabin air. If you feel above the seat pocket on the back of the seat, it is very hot from the exhaust air trapped inside. The seat bottom works because the blower assembly is not trapped inside the leather. On my Edge, if I turn my cooled seats on when the cabin is a comfortable temperature and the leather has had time to come down to cabin temperature, I can briefly feel it on my back, only until I feel the back of the seat get hot above the pocket.

Candurin, thanks for the reply, but this is a push button model. Omar, I will have him check to see. Thanks