Waldo

Just about any Ford engine since about 2010 can "take advantage" of higher octane.  But the ecoboosts will show much more difference than the non-turbos.

My understanding was that there is a "common wall" between the PTU and the trans, such that when you remove the PTU there is no longer a wall on the side of the transmission where the PTU used to be.  The internals of the trans are all the same, but the covers are different.  Maybe I'm remembering this from some other vehicle though.

8 hours ago, majorahole said:

been seriously thinking about removing ptu/propshaft and installing intermediate shaft and right half-shaft from a fwd version. 

fairly confident it will work. 

 

You'll have a big gaping hole in the side of your transmission where the PTU used to act as a cover.

Yes, you will pay taxes on the residual value.  That's because when you were leasing, you were only paying taxes on the lease price, not the total price of the vehicle.  That's actually one of the significant advantages of leasing - that you are essentially deferring the tax charges instead of financing them.

I've never had to go to take care of registration myself anytime I've purchased from a dealer in Ontario, but maybe in Quebec they have different rules.  But basically the dealer had to send one of their employees to the "Service Ontario" office and had it done, then called me to come back and pick it up.  So if you're in a hurry you could do it yourself and save time.

I had mine taken care of by my dealer in Ontario.  I did have to have a safety inspection done though because it technically is a transfer of ownership.  But once I brought them the safety report (from Canadian Tire), they took care of all the paperwork and I just wrote them a check.

Your car has about 20 different computer modules that all can be updated periodically, but Sync (APIM) is the only one you can do yourself.

The only time your vehicle would ever "need" an update for anything else would be if there was a recall, and then it would be free.  So if the dealership isn't doing it for free, then it is a money-grab for sure.

On 11/29/2019 at 10:57 AM, David Young said:

You all know the fuel pump is in the gas tank? It depends on being submerged in gasoline to keep it cool? You all know this, or am I wrong...………...

That's an old "wives tail" like the 3000 mile oil change.  The fuel passing through the pump is enough to keep it cool.  I mean the engine doesn't have to be submerged in coolant to keep it cool?  Just the coolant passing through is enough.

The biggest risk of damage when you run out of fuel is running lean while you're on boost.  In my old turbo RX7 doing that just once could blow out the seals in the rotary engine.  If it runs out while you're just cruising along, there's isn't going to be any damage done.

1 hour ago, David Dewhurst said:

Forget the paddle shifters for a moment, forget the no low gear in my Edge for a minute. My Edge has non-adaptive cruise control and within an Edge with adaptive cruise control when one switches the adaptive cruise control OFF, do you really believe you have anything different than non-adaptive cruise control? I'd suggest you then have the exact same cruise control and if you read a few more comments in the owner's manual, you'll clearly read there is a brake heat related issue in hilly/mountainous conditions. Twist it any way you please, when you have your foot on the brake pedal traveling down a mountain, the brake rotors and pads will heat up (worse yet is the brake fluid will also heat up and the pedal at some temperature will get soft and spongy) and there will be a safety issue the same as when one over uses the brakes on a race car. But then reading is like many things in life, different strokes for different folks. 

Vehicles with the adaptive cruise control will still use the brakes even when set to non-adaptive mode.   Brakes will heat up when they are used.  When using adaptive cruise control going down a hill, they might heat up to the point where the adaptive cruise control stops working.  This is not at the point where there is a safety issue, just an issue where the adaptive cruise control is no longer able to operate properly.  If it was really a safety issue, it would be in a big bold section that said "WARNING" at the top, just like all the actually safety issues.

I'll say it for what, the 5th time now, the section on ADAPTIVE CRUISE CONTROL is about ADAPTIVE CRUISE CONTROL.  It only applies when you are USING ADAPTIVE CRUISE CONTROL.  That's why it says "when the system is active".  Also note that in that section there are something like 15 "Warnings" that say if you don't do this you will die.  The suggestion to downshift is not one of those warnings, therefore Ford doesn't consider it a safety issue.

Fact, 7% slope road, crest hill at 25mph 1,200rpm.  floor it.  At bottom of hill mash the brake pedal, reach speed of 0mph.

Please tell me again why any of this matters?

19 hours ago, IWRBB said:

We'll see in time.   I don't see it appealing to anyone simply via the Mustang name.  The problem is- the cheap ones aren't fast, and the fast ones aren't cool.  I think we'll see them majorly cutting production numbers within 2 years after a decent first year of sales, and it being completely gone within 5 years. 

 

My sales predictions:

Year 1:  50K

Year 2:  45K

Year 3:  20K

Year 4:  15K

Year 5:  15K

 

Let's hear your numbers for the first five years and we'll see how it shakes out.  2025 will be here before you know it.

 

Mustangs have averaged around 90K per year over the last 5 years for comparison.

You're missing the big picture.  This is just the first of a entire lineup of EVs from Ford.  5 years from now it will just be one of 4 or 5.  it will be the "sporty" one, but you'll have luxury ones, pickup truck EVs, family hauler EVs and so on.  So yes, the sales will tail off, but that's by design as it's complemented by other parts of the lineup.  Ford is using the Mustang name to appeal to non-Mustang people; the people who don't want a Mustang, but haven't considered an EV cool enough or mainstream enough to be worth purchasing.  I suspect that once Ford is able to build their EV brand, they will probably remove the Mustang name.  In fact my prediction is 5 years from now, the Mach-E name will be stronger than the Mustang name. 

Isn't the 2011 a TiVCT and your old one was an iVCT?  How did you deal with the extra connector on the cam cover?

The climate control "computer" is actually the faceplate behind the buttons (called the FCIM, there's basically a circuit board behind all the buttons below the screen).  If you got some water or spilled a coffee that got in there, it can cause the kinds of trouble you're having.

From the 2019 Ford Workshop manual:

1. With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist.
   Refer to: Jacking and Lifting - Overview (100-02 Jacking and Lifting, Description and Operation).

1. NOTE: Use a shop towel when removing the oil filter housing to prevent oil from spilling on the engine or accessory components.

   1. Loosen the oil filter housing and allow the oil to drain out of the housing and down into the engine.
   2. Remove the oil filter housing and discard the oil filter element.
   3. Remove and discard the O-ring seals.

1. NOTE: The drain plug should be removed and installed by hand, do not use tools.

   1. Turn the oil drain plug by hand counterclockwise 120 degrees.
      Use the General Equipment: Oil Drain Equipment
   2. Pull the oil drain plug out of the oil pan.
   3. After the oil has drained, push the oil drain plug into the oil pan.

   4. NOTICE: Overtightening will damage the oil drain plug and possibly the oil pan.

      Turn the oil drain plug by hand clockwise 120 degrees.

So new O-rings for the filter cover are required, but no need to replace the drain plug.

You're alignment is either good or bad right now, changing tires isn't going to change that.  Even changing to a different tire size will not affect the alignment.  At 1000 miles on a new vehicle, there's no reason to believe your alignment is bad now.

I'm not sure when the Edge switched, but I think in 2013 it was using the dry clutch RDU.  Which means the fluid back there is only used to lubricate the diff gears, and not the clutches.  As such it wouldn't really see a lot of heat or load, though the gears do spin all the time, no matter if the AWD is engaged or not.  There's not a lot of history of rear diff lubrication issues on these Ford systems, so I don't know why you would even bother to change the fluid unless you've hit 150K miles.

If you just pull the electrical connector off the RDU (rear diff), the AWD system will fault to off.  You'll get a wrench light, but the clutches between the front and rear axle will remain permanently open and everything will just be free spinning.  That would take the load off the PTU, but it won't fix the leaks.

I haven't heard of any issues of seals leaking on the newer PTUs, I think that issue has been fixed.

Ethanol has a very high evaporation temperature, so it doesn't like cold starts.  That's one of the main reasons most vehicles are not E85 compatible.  Another reason is because the ethanol can "eat" rubber and other components in the fuel system over time.

My advice would be to just keep filling up the gas tank with some good premium non-ethanol fuel every day or two until you've put about 15 gallons in.  That will dilute it down until eventually you're back to normal.  Just take it super easy driving on cold starts and try to stay out of the boost at all times.  I think one tank won't be enough to do any permanent damage, but that's just my opinion, no guarantees.

As mentioned a few pages back, the amount of engine braking you get from an engine is directly related to its displacement.  A 2L engine has to rev at 3000rpm to get the same amount of compression braking as a 3L engine at 2000rpm.  Nothing in the calibration or transmission can change that basic law of physics.

Please forgive me for once again pointing out that the only mention of brakes overheating is in the adaptive cruise control system section.  If you are not using adaptive cruise control, the brakes will not overheat.

The adaptive cruise uses an algorithm to consider how much brake pressure is applied over a certain amount of time.  Once it gets to a certain threshold, it will shut off the adaptive cruise control system.  That is what the warning in the owner's guide is for, so that you know why the system has shut off.  As i mentioned before, it's accounting not only for the brake rotors and pads, but also for the solenoids that apply the pressure.  Since Ford engineers are not quite as incompetent as you think they are, they set these thresholds on the conservative side so that the warnings come on before the brakes have actually overheated to the point where it becomes a safety issue.

On 10/4/2019 at 10:10 PM, David Dewhurst said:

 

Because the Edge has no process to down shift to a lower gear in hilly/mountain roads as was mentioned in an earlier post Ford Motor Company one must use the brake 

 

True

On 10/4/2019 at 10:10 PM, David Dewhurst said:

and the brake system will overheat and cause a safety issue.

 

False

15 hours ago, ktp1598 said:

Curious if anyone's had to use it.. My '19 Mustang has it and it's worked when someone turned right in front of me while I was on (adaptive) cruise control. He slowed down to turn right and I knew I had plenty of distance but the car didn't think so . My wife's Edge St has it but she's had a few close calls and feels like it should have intervened.

That wasn't Automatic Emergency Braking, that was just regular adaptive cruise control.  The alert that you got was just to tell you that you should take control of the brakes.  My 2010 MKT does the same thing, and it does not have AEB.  AEB is very sudden and very last minute.  If you're wife didn't crash, then it wasn't needed and shouldn't have come on.  Basically what a human perceives as a "close call" is just a "meh" to the computers. When you really need it, it will be there.

Why would they want to slow it down by putting a Coyote in it?

I don't even know where you would start with this kind of idea.  You'd have to come up with an entirely new clutch system to disconnect the front axle.  And then the rear axle is only sized for max 50% of the engine torque, so you'd basically have to shut down half of the cylinders in the engine.  I don't see how that would be much fun.

Are Ford's maps more out-of-date than other vehicles?  How out-of-date do you think it needs to be in order to be concerned?  1-month, 6 months, 1 year?  There are probably vehicles out there that have tires that are older than the maps, should Ford advise customers about that as well?  What about vehicles that have sat on a lot for 6 months?  Should Ford advise owner's to change the oil right away?  What about changes that have been made in production between the time a vehicle is built and when it is sold.  Should Ford advise customer's about those changes?

My point is there are 100s of things Ford "knows" about a vehicle that might cause you concern.  Do you really expect to be told about all of them?

It's not like an out-of-date map renders the system useless.  I'm sure that more than 99% of the map is still useful and you can rely on it.  I still have 2011 maps in one of my cars and I still use it regularly.