Waldo

Do you regularly "top-off" the tank when you fill it or do you stop putting gas in when the pump shuts off?

I know of a guy that installed Stem TPMS on his 2010 Edge which were banded. No issues at all and they work. The only difference is how they are mounted. The PCM will read them as nothing has changed but how they are attached.

Well it's true the PCM doesn't care at all in how they are attached, the only difference is in the first couple of characters of the signal that the sensors transmit. A 2010 Edge is programmed to look for sensors that transmit something like say "ABC" at the beginning of the message. Ford's OEM band sensors transmit "ABC". Ford's OEM stem sensors transmit "XYZ". So they would never be recognized by the BCM on a 2010 unless the BCM is re-configured to look for "XYZ". What I suspect is that a lot of the newer sensors are probably programmed to transmit both "ABC" and "XYZ", so that they will work on either one. But you can't take the old Ford OEM sensors and make them work on a band sensor vehicle without a reprogram.

In my case I've put 228,000+126,000+297,000=720,000 miles between 2 Toyotas and 1 Honda. The Honda got the WP changed as part of the 100,000 service. No WP on the van that had 228000 when sold and the truck, still going at 297000 miles, got a new WP at 195,000 just as part of preventative maintenance when the timing belt was replaced.

 

So, no failures. Anyone have a 3.5L engine that the WP made it to 195,000 miles?

 

And the replacement cost is not $1000 - cheapest I have heard is $1500.

 

I saw someone on the Flex forum do the entire job on his own including updating the chain and cam sprockets and all that stuff to the 2011+ design for $800 in parts. So if we're going to say the Honda/Toyota is a $100 job for a DIYer we need to compare apples to apples.

But really the point is none of us really know what the failure rate of the Ford 3.5 water pumps really is. Obviously when it does fail it's going to make people so upset that they seek out ways to share their frustration on social media, but that really doesn't paint an accurate picture of the true failure rates.

But what are the failure rates on the Honda and Toyota water pumps? Is using a better stronger longer lasting more efficient part that hardly ever fails - but when it does fail causes expensive repairs - a better design than one that uses a cheap weak part that is easy to change?

Or in other words, which is really a better design? One that requires 100% of people to replace it for $100 or one that requires 5% of people to replace it for $1000?

Actually it's just a programming issue. You can reconfigure the BCM to accept the other type of sensors, though you'd need to know exactly which parameter to change. It's all a bunch of hex code, not something that will pop up on a menu somewhere.

You cannot mix the factory band and stem sensors. So you cannot use the factory sensor from a 2011 on a 2007. But there are plenty of cheap aftermarket ones that will work.

Weight is also important. Giving away all those wires on the base models makes them weigh more, which can push them into a different weight class for EPA testing, which can result in the entire line having a lower fuel mileage on the window sticker.

All the stuff that is controlled by the memory is different, the mirror motors are different and the door module is different and programmed completely differently. You'll likely find the entire door wiring harness would need to be replaced as well. As you're finding out, it's a much, much bigger job than it would seem.

Excellent advice. Dealer 2 does it automatically, Dealer 1 did not. The first attachment shows the new order that Dealer 2 had me sign, my name and sig are removed. But the check marks are mine.

 

Be that as it may, the second attachment is a copy of what I gave Dealer 1. Straight from the order guide, they still had their copy in the file. Would you have ordered an Ebony interior after reading that? I also provided them with my build and price printout, which was also correct.

 

But you are correct, you have to double and triple check the paperwork at the dealer because people make mistakes.

 

My other squawk was that Ford put out the VIN well before the build date, see Post 1, but did not put out the window sticker until after the build date. There was an opportunity to correct the mistake before the build. If you have generated a VIN, I would assume that you could generate a window sticker before you build it.

Once the VIN is generated all the parts are ordered, there's no way to correct anything other than just delete the whole order.

If you look at the differences between the 2016 and 2017 Fusion or the 2015 and 2016 Escape, you can get an idea of the level of change expected in the next Edge update.

Drivetrain usually means the part between the end of the transmission and the wheels, so that's why it didn't make a lot of sense.

I don't see how increasing power could have any effect on the serpentine belt. The load through the belt comes from the loads of the accessories, not from the load of the engine. As they say, you can't push on a string.

BTW, just drove through Payson last week, what a great drive up 87 and then over to Sedona. Everything was so green!!

Good grief no, That system is extremely complicated and VERY integrated into everything else in the vehicle. I would never, ever want an aftermarket system.

Of course there's logic. To have Ford Connect you need a modem. To put in a modem you need wiring and software. When you're an OEM you can't just slap that stuff in, you need to design it, test it, coordinate it with production and so on. To do all that work for just a modem is very inefficient, so Ford waits until they are already designing, testing and changing something else at the same time.

The 2017 Escape had all new wiring, the 2017 Edge had nothing different than the 2016.

Do I need a socket to get front or rear rotors off? I was going to replace pads and rotors this morning and couldn't get the front rotors off. It looked like a I needed a large socket to get rotor off, but maybe I was just looking at wheel hub but.

That's the nut that holds the halfshaft into the wheel hub. You don't want to touch that one!

What size is your spare tire?

If the shops don't calibrate the equipment regularly, it is useless. Best you can do is go with the 2 out of 3, get it done.

As an aside, I don't get the "alignment check" but not align. 75% of the work of doing an alignment is setting up the equipment, It probably took them 15 minutes to do the check, would have only taken 5 more to fix the toe.

If the struts aren't going to swing it open, why do I have the button on the fob? I like the car, just a few things about it seem like "hey this is a good idea but lets not take it all the way."

So that you can open the liftgate without unlocking the car. So that you can open the liftgate from a distance for someone else who is close to the car. So that you can open the liftgate for somebody stuck inside the cargo area.

If you want to "take it all the way", then pay for the power option that Ford offers. If you wanted the struts to be strong enough to push it open, then it would be impossible to close.

Neither the diesel nor the manual trans are available in the US, so you won't find too many people on this forum with any experience. Try searching out S-max and Galaxy forums, those have the same platform/powertrains as the Edge.

But I wouldn't think it has anything to do with AWD. The AWD systems uses a series of clutches in the rear RDU to control the power flow, it is basically completely independent from the transmission.

They went with the tire they did on the 21's because it's basically the cheapest option available in that size (while still maintaining decent quality and eco rolling resistance to help with mpg's). Do you not consider Tire Rack reputable? You used them to get your own information. Well go on there and look at what they recommend as alternatives to the OEM tire...yup more than half have a 101 rating, which is not only lower than the 105 you think is needed for the 21's but it lower than the 102 you concluded was the minimum requirement for the standard Edge.

Ford doesn't buy tires off the shelf, they have them custom designed from the manufacturer. If they'd wanted a 101 load rated tire they could have had one, and it would have been cheaper. Ford's standards are a little more conservative than industry requirements, so the question is who do you trust more, Ford or Tirerack?

Waldo that is not true. Just because the load rating on the OEM tire is 102 does not mean that it's the vehicle's load minimum for a tire.

 

Seriously Julie just go into a reputable tire shop and discuss it with them. They have lots of tools and resources to determine if they will work or not.

You are correct, but how would you ever know what the minimum load would be? Even the most reputable tire shop does not have access to the data Ford uses to determine that. If any tire shop ever tells you it's ok to run a lower load rating than what your vehicle came with, then they are not reputable. Manufacturers are always trying to squeeze the largest wheels/tires on a vehicle that they can, so if a vehicle ever had any "excess" load capacity it would mean that the manufacturer did not optimize the package space and therefore are spending more to design/build the vehicle than they need to.

On that point, it's worth noting that the 21in size that Ford uses on the Edge is an XL tire with a 105 rating. Had Ford not chosen the XL, that size would have been a 101 rating. So obviously Ford decided that a 101 was not good enough and spent extra money and compromised other things to go with the XL. Therefore I would conclude with a very high probability that 102 is the minimum load rating for a tire on the 2015 Edge (at least based on Ford's standards).

Bottom line is the OE Edge tires have a load rating of 102. Tirerack shows the Goodyear tires in 235/55-17 have a load rating of 99 at most, so your Escape tires do not meet the load requirements of the Edge. Therefore no matter how well they might fit, they are not safe to use on the Edge.

BTW check what size your mini-spare is. If it's 18in, then it's likely that the 17in wheels won't clear the brakes anyway.

I agree, when you spend this much money on a vehicle and claim to compete with the likes of BMW, you should make a product worthy of this. I have had similar issues on my 11 Edge sport. The more people don't take these things for granted and call them out for what they are, the more likelihood that Ford will eventually pay more attention to details.

And the more the new vehicles will cost. Ford knows how to "pay attention to details" but they choose to save the money and reduce the cost to the customer.

Ask your dad where he put it!

The visibility around the A-pillar is very sensitive to where your eyes are; both forwards/backwards and up/down. So for some people it's not going to be an issue at all while for others it will be. As you've found, the best thing is to adjust where you sit, that will make a big difference. But the best thing you can do is look further ahead. Keep your eyes up and you won't need to look into that area of the A-pillar in the first place.

Door mounted mirrors tend to cost more because you need a lot more structure in the middle of the door to support them.