Waldo

What you see in online videos is usually the fascia getting ripped off, The fascia is not the bumper. The tow hooks thread into the steel bumper which is rigidly attached to the frame. It's generally designed for 2.5 times the weight of the vehicle and should be more than sufficient to pull the vehicle out of a stuck situation.

Not true, the hooks that thread through the bumper are specifically designed for vehicle recovery. But as noted, the North American recovery industry has found other ways to get vehicles out when they are stuck.

US (and Canadian) spec cars aren't required to have tow hooks. The ones sold in other markets do.

The amount of battery juice they consumer relative to all the other stuff going on in the car is pretty minimal. Not really worth worrying about.

Have you had the alignment check? Could be excessive toe-out in the rear.

Does it not give you the option to set it to less than 100% when you reset it? This video indicates that is an option at least on some Fords: https://owner.ford.com/support/how-tos/interior/dashboard/how-to-reset-engine-oil-life-with-lcd-screen.html#

I missed the transition in the thread from hood to doors. My 2014 Fusion will start with the door open, but will not start with the hood open.

Not in North America.

Yep, that's all it does, it just adjusts the DTE calculation to better predict when you will need to fill up.

Straight from the source: https://media.ford.com/content/fordmedia/fna/us/en/news/2021/03/18/ford-global-semiconductor-update.html

Traction control has 0 effect on your fuel mileage. As noted, something else changed. Traction control is regulated by the government, so even if Ford had you design a car, it would still have to have a button that turns off traction control every time you start it, just like every other car for sale in the US right now. I really don't understand why you would want to shut it off every time, the only reason to shut it off is if you're stuck in snow or sand or if you just want to make some noise spinning your tires.

You are 100% missing my point. Do those factory staggered setups run the same wheel sizes (width) front and rear? Did your Grand National and Z06 run the same wheel sizes front and rear? When an OEM designs a staggered setup, then compensate in the tuning for the difference in tire properties. They also select wheel sizes that are suited to the tires. My concern is where you say you are going to stick a 295/40 on a 9in wheel. A 295/40 should be on a 10.5in wheel (10in minimum) if you want it to perform the way it was designed. On a 9in wheel it is not going to perform the way it should, which means you're going to have the steering issues I'm talking about. There is a reason tire manufacturers publish minimum rim sizes for each tire. I'm not talking about the overall diameter difference and the AWD system. From that point of view you should be fine, the system is designed to operate on tires within a 2% tolerance.

Of course it can hurt the steering. Steering is all about the compliance and stiffness of the tire. If you cantilever the sidewall out to a wider tread on the same narrow wheel, it will not have the same stiffness. So you'll end up with faster response from the front tires than the rear, which will make the car feel disconnected and out of phase. This isn't something that you have to be on a race track to feel, this is something you might notice just driving down the highway doing lane changes or gradual curves. It might not even be something you consciously notice, but it will make the vehicle more tiresome to drive as you're constantly correcting the steering.

What exactly would be the point of doing this? Seems to me like you're going to make it steer badly and look silly. One person using a setup for a few thousand miles does not mean there are 0 potential issues.

It's virtually impossible to intentionally activate the system, it's configured to actually prevent a crash, not just to make you feel good that it's there. Anything you could try to make it work would be so close to an actual crash that it would be irresponsible. It will not recognize a big cardboard box as a box doesn't have a radar signature that the system will consider worth avoiding. When they test the system they use special "bubble cars" that have some sort of technology that simulates the radar signature of a real car. The system is calibrated to weigh the risks of activating vs the risk of not activating. So it will try to avoid pedestrians and deer, but not small animals that would not pose any risk of injury to the vehicle occupants. Only time I've ever experienced it in the real world was driving a borrowed Mercedes. I looked away for a second and the car in my lane slowed down to make a turn. It beeped and started braking just as I looked back and had started to move my foot over to the pedal. Wasn't particularly abrupt and I probably would have been able to hit the brakes in time on my own, but was good to have.

Sounds normal to me. Remember that with auto temperature control the temperature setting is like a thermostat, it tries to get the car to the setting, it's not directly controlling the temperature of the air coming out. Ford sets the "nominal" setting at 72 degrees. That's where it figures the average person will be comfortable. So if you set it below 72 degrees, it's going to tend to bias towards blowing colder air and above 72 degrees it's going to bias towards blowing warmer air. Your 2015 Escape should work the same way, but maybe there's something just different enough in the way air flows in the cabin that you don't notice.

In 2010 the factory navigation systems all came with an amplifier that you likely don't have.

You have to understand that these "kits" are not official, licensed or in any way supported by Ford. They are put together by individuals who have some knowledge of the system but do not have support from Ford. If those individuals don't have experience with vehicles from other markets, they won't know what the differences will be and they likely won't have access to the different software. Sync 3 does not use a map card, it has the maps built-in. In most cases the map suppliers for export markets are different than the US/Canada suppliers, so all the licensing arrangements are different and in many cases it's another layer of software to interface between those maps and the Ford system. So it's quite reasonable that a company like 4D tech won't have access to the maps, and maybe other things, like the voice engine for different languages.

The TiVCT didn't come out until 2011, so it's certain that you have an iVCT. Not sure how that compares to Honda. AWD doesn't matter, all of the AWD stuff is on the other side of the transmission and the control modules are separate.

There are really only two different versions of the FWD based 3.5L, the iVCT and the TiVCT. The 07-10 Edge used the iVCT. The difference is the TiVCT has twin variable camshafts, the iVCT only has one. You can see the difference in the one vs two sensors on the valve cover. Other models that used the 3.5L IVCT include the 08-12 Taurus (and Sable), the 09-12 Flex, the 08-12 Fusion Sport and various Lincolns though some of them used the 3.7L version, which could also be used in your Edge. The F150, Transit and Mustang have also used versions of this engine, but since they are RWD based it would likely be more effort to get those to work properly though probably possible.

I've seen plenty of super-computer fluid models that show how significant the airflow through the engine bay is. Obviously it's not as big an effect as the radiator cooling, but it is significant. Think of the radiator as a two-way heat exchanger. It exchanges heat between coolant and air. If you close the thermostat, you don't allow any coolant into the radiator, so no heat exchange can take place. If you close the grill shutters, you don't allow any air into the radiator, so no heat exchange can take place. A radiator is only efficient at heat transfer if there is a difference in temperature between the coolant and the air. If the air around the radiator heats up and has nowhere to go, the heat transfer won't take place. Now as I said, the shutters are really only about 75% effective while the thermostat is pretty much 100% effective, so it's not exactly the same. But to bring it back to the original question, if the shutters are opening more often at cold temps on a 2020 Edge (whether through a defect, or through a programming change for some other reasons), then that can be enough to make a noticeable difference in warm up times.

If the shutters are closed, it won't really matter if the thermostat is open or not since the radiator won't have any air going through it so it will be as if it isn't part of the cooling system, which is the same thing as the thermostat does. In reality the closed shutters are only 75% effective, so there will be some difference, but I still predict your shutters open scenario would have the longest warm-up time of the 3.

Direct quote from the 2020 Edge Factory Service Manual: The active grille shutter system (when equipped) is comprised of the grille shutter assembly and the grille shutter actuator. The active grille shutter system is primarily used to maximize fuel economy by reducing aerodynamic drag on the vehicle. The active grille shutter system is also used to shorten engine warm-up time, increasing engine efficiency and providing heat to the vehicle occupants in a timely manner.

Could you imagine if people forgot their fobs and the vehicles just started randomly shutting down in the middle of the freeway once you got halfway to where you're going? Don't know about the Chevy, but Ford vehicles will warn you when you drive away without a fob, they will warn you when you shut if off without a fob, so if you're so oblivious to miss both those warnings, you deserve to get stuck!

Pretty sure you didn't pay more than sticker price when you walked out the door.