mvan231

Thanks for the response. I noticed if I turn the passenger side down a few degrees cooler than the driver's side, the temp at the rear vent seems to match closer to what I have set at the driver side. How weird. Must be an odd sensor placement or something to do with air circulation

On 1/31/2020 at 3:15 PM, oskar27 said:

Unfortunately no one replied and I completely forgot about it.

 

Did you have any further luck in figuring this out? Our 2016 is doing this and it's rather confusing 

11 hours ago, Eli M said:

Meant to do this. 

Never had experienced this in our 2016

On 5/11/2021 at 11:09 PM, enigma-2 said:

Wiring harnesses rarely go bad. Almost always it's related to corrosion in a connector. 

Totally agree with you. Turns out my parking brake actuator on the passenger side was also bad. 
 

Here is everything they ended up doing (also included the front brake hose recall they had to do) including the part numbers they replaced as well. When I looked at the wiring harness for the passenger side it seemed to have some corrosion in the connector, so I believe there was a seal that got compromised and caused this to happen. 
 

Some of my lug nuts were "swollen" so they had to be replaced. I hate lug nuts with caps lol

\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/

2016 FORD EDGE

A PERFORM RECALL 20s42 FRONT BRAKE FLEXIBLE HOSE LEAKS

20S42B RECALL 20S42

1 J2GZ*2078*A HOSE ASY - BRAKE

1 J2GZ*2078*B HOSE ASY

1 PM*20* FLUID - BRAKE

4 *W711784*s300 WASHER

87474 20S42B, 1.0 HOUR REPLACE BOTH FRONT FLEX HOSES

*********** ***************** *********** ****** *******

1 H2GZ*14A411*A JUMPER WIRING

1 H2GZ*14A411*B JUMPER WIRING

1 DG9Z*2B712*A MOTOR - ELECTRIC PARKING BRAKE

1 E1GZ*2B623* CA SWITCH ASY

10 ACPZ*1012 *M NUT - WHEEL

4.0 hour 

scan has multipul dtc, park brake, and switch related, replace switch, replace rt. rear park brake actuator, replace rt. and left rear park brake wire harnesses, clear dtc, road tested

normal operation

******** **** ***** ******* ***************** **********

As an update: I took our Edge to the dealer and they found that the parking brake harness as well as the parking  brake actuator switch were bad. Total for the replacement of these is over $1k similar to what sjskowron had mentioned. 
seems like the harness and also a switch Went bad for some reason. 
 

I had just recently washed the car and sprayed out the wheel wells but not to a level that would damage it. 
 

The warning lamp tone was definitely very annoying while driving. 
 

edit: I will post back here with the part numbers and such that is available after I get the car back

On 6/27/2020 at 7:00 AM, sjskowron said:

Hi Jae Jae,

I took my car to the dealership and they ordered wiring harnesses (one for each side).  Since it took a few days to get the parts and install them they gave me a free Escape rental.  It ended up costing a little over $1000 for the repair.  The problem was fixed and I've have no problems since.

Do you have record of what harnesses they replaced? I would be curious to know this so I don't have to pay the dealer a ton of money to try and diagnose the problemDo you have record of what harnesses they replaced? I would be curious to know this so I don't have to pay the dealer a ton of money to try and diagnose the problem

I am having this same issue now. Hoping to try the reset trick to see if it helps, but the parking brake does seem to be operating just fine. Odd part is, I was just washing the car yesterday, so part of me is wondering if that is playing a role here.

On 11/1/2020 at 10:58 PM, Bumpin96monte said:

I'd probably have cut apart the ties on the two lines Ford forces you to buy.  Since you're only replacing the valve which is on the 1 line, there's no need to replace the other besides it being wrapped together from Ford.  Would definitely save some labor replacing an otherwise good hose, and you could always stick it on the shelf for later if you need it.

This is great news! 
 

Of course you still need to buy the entire octopus of hoses and valve but at least you don't need to absolutely make the effort to take all of the hoses out this way. 
 

Glad to know you had a decent experience replacing this and I'll be ordering the part soon so I can take care of this on our car soon. 
 

I hope that Ford is addressing this in their current or future models. 

I'm just getting back into this subject but I am also facing the same troubles now on my 2016 Edge with 2.0L. 
 

I think I'll be doing this replacement as well and I agree it's a pain that there is so few resources to get this part for replacement other than from Ford directly. 
 

On 4/18/2020 at 9:44 AM, DsDad said:

You can find just the valve on eBay by crossing the original valve's Bosch part number, 0280142519, but valve's Ford number shows discontinued in the Ford parts book, and the correct Ford part number for the entire assembly is F2GZ-9D289-A. I could find no aftermarket source.

I'm glad to know you were able to just replace the valve and carry on. I'll be looking into doing exactly this to save on costs and overall headache.

Hi There! Thanks for the great info! Did you happen to order this from your local dealer directly or did you find it online somewhere?

On 3/2/2018 at 4:58 PM, DPMS said:

I have a 2014 Edge. A couple of weeks ago I left the lift gate open all night. Now the dome lights will not come on when I open any of the doors. The map lights work when you turn them on manually and the puddle lights and vanity mirror lights work. I checked all the fuses and I disconnected the battery for a while in hopes something would reset. I checked all the bulbs and they all work. I opened and closed all the doors many times with no success. Does anyone have any ideas? Thank you,

Did you ever find a fix?

On 11/12/2019 at 2:43 PM, akirby said:

 

For those that don't know, hold the voice command button for 3 seconds and it activates Siri on your iphone.

I used to do that as well on my Fusion since it didn't have CarPlay. 
 

I enjoy the option to have Nav with CarPlay vs AppLink 

On 11/5/2019 at 7:18 PM, BWBESport said:

After I replaced the bad one last weekend I came across a thread about cleaning and lubing the old part. Basically the valve gets stuck in one position. Which cases the excessive vacuum. So supposedly you can just spray a bunch of WD40 down the hoses into the valve and just let it soak. I did exactly that and I put the old part in the box and into the cabinet. Might need it down the road. ??‍♂️

 Nice! Good idea! I'll keep this in mind when mine inevitably goes bad too

On 11/12/2019 at 10:36 AM, Smitty said:

 

True...they want $150 for an upgrade to my 2017 Ram....which I have not done. 

Ouch! Yeah I wouldn't do it either. Minimal benefit for the cost 

On 8/26/2019 at 7:17 AM, todd92 said:

You have to stick your foot pretty far under the bumper and swipe it sideways to activate the hatch.  Pretty much impossible to do while leaning into the hatch area.

Not true on my 2016. I just have to stick my foot near the bumper and it'll start on

On 11/12/2015 at 12:18 PM, Sergepaul said:

Yes it's the Titanium AWD. I am on flat ground when in reverse and the noise is there even after I have driven it for awhile. Hopefully, it will be a small ajustement in the shift linkage. No difference in the noise from drive to reverse or park to reverse. I will be getting it checked at the beginning of next week.

Thank you for your comments.

Did you figure out the problem?

I had a similar issue on my 2013 Fusion previously and the issue was due to the weather stripping at the front small window. Different design, but it could be a similar issue. Somewhere the wind is getting caught

On 9/19/2019 at 9:08 PM, dsullivan2181 said:

Sorry to bother....Was just told that I need a power steering line and I have a power steering leak. It will cost me $350 cash to fix. ($150 for the part/$200 for the labor) Is this a good price? Were there any recalls on this by chance? Thanks so much 

Best to check the NHTSA site for recalls.

what year is your edge?

On 10/22/2019 at 12:57 PM, Cyberdave said:

I took the car into Ford and they looked into it. They said that the brake light switch was sticking (which is why pressing the brake pedal again would turn the lights back off) and they were able to reproduce the problem even on level ground. They claimed it was not related to the booster/master cylinder work. 

They replaced it - $30 for the part and $135 for labor. 

That was going o be my suggestion as well

Blows my mind that they charge that much for map updates still when so many other services offer mapping/updates for free

https://owner.ford.com/support/how-tos/sync/what-sync-version-do-I-have.html

On 9/25/2019 at 1:07 PM, akirby said:

 

Or Waze on applink.   I don't like Carplay.

Applink support is ending, but still works for now. I used to use it before upgrading my USB module to a CarPlay compatible version. I found that the applink worked decent, but still a bit laggy compared to CarPlay

On 9/26/2019 at 8:38 AM, akirby said:

 

I don't like either one.  I prefer to use Sync 3 for everything else including music.  Just a personal preference.

Do you just use your phone and text over Bluetooth?

You could probably tap into the relay or the fuse for the reverse lamps. 

Looks like fuse 15 in the passenger compartment fuse panel. 

You can also use Waze without using CarPlay if you want to use that feature. it just comes up through the AppLink service on the bottom of the screen. It doesn't work as nicely as CarPlay does, but its at least an option

This is fantastic! Thanks so much for the great info!