mvan231

Welcome! I'm running a 2016 SEL 2.0 EcoBoost also in SE MI. Hope you are enoying the ride!

My 2016 was able to update via Wi-Fi

If you're hardwiring, you'll want it to be ignition switched or at least computer controlled like the cigarette lighter / power port is.

there are some great fuse taps you can pick up at a parts store for pretty cheap. As for the fuse to use, I think you'll want to look into the Extended Power Module possibly.

http://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/vdirsnet/OwnerManual/Home/Content?bookCode=O33761&countryCode=USA&languageCode=EN&marketCode=US&viewTech=IE&chapterTitleSelected=G1676239&subTitleSelected=G1820962&topicHRef=G1820963&div=f&variantid=4224&vFilteringEnabled=False&userMarket=USA

I can't get into the AutoMate site right now, but depending on your location, you could access it via Michigan Education Library: https://mel.org/welcome

I attached the fuses export from the Owners manual for your reference: Fuses.pdf

Hola!

Sounds like a rough situation. Hopefully after drying things out it'll all be fine and well for you

I love the '16 we just got. It's been a great adjustment into the crossover world for me since I owned a Fusion prior to. I explain the Edge as a taller  version of the Fusion (since they are based on the same platform). It's a great vehicle and I really enjoy it. Heated steering wheel is a great feature for sure! I don't know of anyone who has said they don't like having it

That is terrible news! Flooding can cause some serious problems in the immediate or long-term future. I'd double check with your insurance company about the flooding and see if they can cover any possibly future damages but its probably a tough situation since nothing bad happened (as far as you know)

I was wondering if it was something like a rust preventative or the like. Sounds like you're probably spot on. Thanks for the good advice on that!

2016 Edge SEL:

I'm curious if anyone has had issues with grease "dripping" out of their hatch door from the vent/drain holes at the bottom of the door. I noticed an odd colored spot on my rear bumper cover this morning and when I touched it, realized it was grease. It is amber colored and I noticed some droplets or drips of the same substance on the drain hole at the bottom of the hatch. This was only on the passenger side of the door strangely.

This is quite interesting. I may have to take mine in to get it checked out as I have a similar issue but mine only seems to be when throttle is wide open and accelerating it hesitates and seems like slipping. I'll have to try FORScan and also bring up to the dealer. Still covered under powertrain warranty, so hopefully all will be covered if it is a mechanical issue

11 hours ago, F2504x4 said:

I know this is old post but the link to the Edge Cooling Fan wiring pdf  is broken, would someone happen to have a working link ? thx

BWT I have 2011 limited 3.5 that went south , had a used  one installed and i am thinking the mechanic did something to pinch (?) the wiring harness , since now the pcm will not send a signal to the a/c clutch or fan motors . I need to back track the wiring from where it plugs into the firewire wall.

I posted some schematics about this same issue in a different thread.

https://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/12832-cooling-fan-problems/?page=2

If you need more schematics, let me know and I can see about it.

50 minutes ago, Runterborn said:

There is a relay on the drivers side of the fan assembly.  I have the towing package so there was one lead going in and two, one to each fan, coming out.  Based on the diagram above the relay plugs into C1554.

That is quite interesting that it isn't in the diagram. Do you have photos of the unit? I wonder if you apply direct power to the fan motor power if it will spin. Could be that the cooling fan module itself is dead

20 minutes ago, Runterborn said:

I have, what seems to be, a very common problem with my 2013 Edge.  Overheats in stop/go traffic or City driving.  I put the AC on Max and pop the hood.  Neither fan is spinning.  After reading various threads about this, I start at the fusebox under the hood.  Fuses good.  Check the connections to the relay, nothing obvious, i.e. connectors not burnt or corroded, but the module itself looks like it might have gotten hot.  The label on the module is discolored and flaking off.  After another quick search I figure that I need to replace the relay.  Relay replaced and still no fans.  Replace fan assembly, with a Dorman, and return relay, still no fans.  While I seem to be enjoying this  game of throw parts at the problem, I honestly don't know where to go next.  I read somewhere that the Cylinder Head Sensor may be bad which may be causing the relay to not turn off/on but cannot confirm that information.

 

Any thoughts?

 

Have you captured any wiring diagrams to start diving into the power and ground of the circuit itself? I looked them up and it looks like this isn't a typical relay controlling a high current circuit like a blower motor relay circuit would be. Apparently the module has a relay, but there is no direct method to power the fans. Which relay were you checking? I don't see a relay for cooling fans in the underhood fuse panel diagram.

Thanks for letting us know about this. I will definitely keep this in mind on my 2016

I had a similar set of faults on my Fusion when I still had it. Evap Purge Valve assembly is a usual culprit. Took me about an hour to change due to tight clearances around the disconnect areas, but after changing it, the light turned off. No need to clear the codes.

On 6/7/2019 at 10:06 AM, Close to the edge said:

Part Number: 44815-1-2

Used for one winter. get them at a fraction of the cost of new.

Paypal accepted. Price includes shipping and fees. These sell for $180 new

 

 

What price are you selling for?

I hear it sometimes on my 2016 in the same scenario, but it doesn't happen all the time

Sounds like it could be a bad seal or possibly an issue with the door seams themselves. Have you investigated further?

Welcome welcome!

It would be brilliant to generate some sort of manual including how-to setup, initial connections, CAN bus to use, etc.

It would be a ton of work though.

What engine do you have? This looks to me like the connection / quick disconnect (not actually very quick from my experience) for part of the evaporative emissions system. The Canister Purge Valve assembly has connections like this right in that same area

17 hours ago, akirby said:

 

I have to admit the whole planetary/sun/ring gear thing still has me perplexed a little.

Yeah, planetary gearsets are crazy! They work great, but they are very interesting to study

Wow! That is pretty interesting actually. Crazy the kind of things that can be done with transmissions. Most people have no clue how they work either

3 hours ago, akirby said:

 

That was the case in my Lincoln LS.  Clearing the table made it shift better in most cases.  We even knew the guy whose team did the software and he couldn’t explain it either.  

that really gives you the warm and fuzzy feeling about the algorithms inside the software, doesn't it?

Unfortunately, the code is back. I'm seeing values between 0.1V and 0.9V for the downstream sensor. The upstream sensor only reads out A/F ratio and current. Current readings seem to fluctuate between 0.4A and -0.3A. 

Not it sure if this could mean the catalytic converter is going bad? I saw some other code pop up as pending. It was P013E which I saw online is a delayed response from the downstream sensor. 

P013E DTC info