bscott94

I love it. Except I hit my head on the hatch now even with the top point saved. I live in Indianapolis so not many twisty roads but I'm 30 seconds from Carmel, the city of roundabouts so I get my need for twisties from those. It is much more flat ripping through roundies!

Installed B6 Springs and Struts and H&R lowering springs. It's not super low but way better

Moving to the rear. I found the following on rear subframe replacement as I've read dropping the subframe makes rear spring replacement easier. I don't need to completely remove the subframe so the workshop manual section has a lot of extra steps. Do I just need to remove the shocks, put a jack under the diff and mark and remove the 4 bolts from the first part of the workshop manual, and lower it slightly to pull out the springs?

Thank you! That is very helpful. I ordered everything suggested/available from Tire Rack/RockAuto hoping I could assembly the new struts before I take everything apart but it looks like I'll reuse some rubber seats and other small items from the stock set up.

@Haz, can you share the strut info from the workshop manual? Would that be different than the Haynes manual? I know it won't be the exact same as the Bilstein strut by hopefully it's the same components.

Does anyone have a video or pictures that show how to assemble B6 struts with H&R springs? I think I ordered everything I needed but I can't make things fit together how I would expect them to. I found the link below but it's H&R Springs on stock struts. I can't find anything that lists the other parts that are needed to complete a strut. I have the Haynes Manual and it shows stock struts but it still seems like something is missing. Below is what I have. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1wQ3WRD6zvzHaAbxE3hCZpyKIwbBI3-Gs/view

Mine hasn't broken off completely but I think the only screws that haven't broken are along the back. I don't want to do all of the work to remove the unit so I might just break it off the rest of the way and carefully epoxy it back on. I have looked around on here to see this situation and never found it. I wish I could just buy the cover but I don't think it's sold separately.

This thing is sweet! What part of Indiana are you in? I recognize IRP in a few of those pictures. Also, since this is bagged now, what are you doing with those H&R springs?!

I have a 2017 Sport and I felt/heard bad thumping when going through roundabouts. I think it was during the 2-3 shift. I'm not sure if It was because I kinda "launch" into the RAB in second, coast to the middle of the RAB, then accelerate out. I think the 2-3 shift was happening during my coast and then the acceleration was slamming it into gear or something. I reset the TCM in ForScan and it seems to be less aggressive. I don't know if it actually did anything or not but it seems like the reset helped at least a little bit.

The PDF from the comment below has a good diagram showing the part. I ordered my part off of Rock Auto. I picked my car and it showed me the correct parts. I think it was around $50

Thanks. Is there anything that says whether or not the plastic fin shaped cover can be removed from the base? I know there are things between the fin and the base so there has to be a way to get in there. I don't know if they're screwed/clipped together or if they're glued together after the internals are installed.

Does anyone have any experience with this? It looks like the cover might screw onto the base so I might have some broken plastic where it screws together but I can't find any info

I wish this info would've been available a few months ago. I got the aftermarket ones and removed the covers to replace the blue covers on the plastic that fits. It worked fine but just buying and popping in would've been preferred.

😃 I said the same thing to my fiance. I was going to buy it back, tune it and make it lower and wider. I think it would make it fun on a road course lol. If we had space to store a non street car, it would be highly considered. We also thought about buying it back, putting a bumper cover on it, and calling it "Rebuilt". It's on it's way to a new shop for a second opinion. We might just get it back repaired with a clean title.

It might not be totaled after all. Our insurance sent someone to look at it and the damage to the left frame rail is so minor, he believes it can be pulled back into shape. He said he's seen it done before. He couldn't see any damage to the right frame rail but the shop claims there is. I think we are going to take it to a new shop to get a second opinion. Hopefully we don't have to wait another month for the next shop. Fingers crossed we get our ride back soon. It looks like most of the damage to the frame rail is just on the bumper reinforcement mounting surface which, based on the spot welds, is a part that can be removed and replaced.