bscott94

I would try a wash and hand polish. I use mostly Adam's Polishes and have used this product before so that's my suggestion. Any light polish should work though. https://adamspolishes.com/products/adam-s-revive-fine-hand-car-polish?_pos=1&_sid=25c2bdc8d&_ss=r

I've searched on here and on Google and can't really find what I'm looking for. I'm trying to hard wire a dashcam that came with fuse taps. It has one tap for an ignition source for regular duty and then one for constant for parking mode. I see a lot of unused fuses in this breakdown. Is there somewhere that will tell me which of these are ignition and which are constant? I assume these spares are hot? If not, what should I use that is hot.

Does this say there is a new oil pan? With a built in gasket? I was just going to deal with the leaking pan since it's been replaced at least twice but if there's a better replacement now, I might have to call. I see the Warranty Status section but I don't understand it. Do you know if this covers anything with the issue? I just hit 69k miles on a 2017

I wouldn't try. I got a spring compressor kit from Harbor Freight for $35 and it worked perfectly.

I love it. Except I hit my head on the hatch now even with the top point saved. I live in Indianapolis so not many twisty roads but I'm 30 seconds from Carmel, the city of roundabouts so I get my need for twisties from those. It is much more flat ripping through roundies!

Installed B6 Springs and Struts and H&R lowering springs. It's not super low but way better

Moving to the rear. I found the following on rear subframe replacement as I've read dropping the subframe makes rear spring replacement easier. I don't need to completely remove the subframe so the workshop manual section has a lot of extra steps. Do I just need to remove the shocks, put a jack under the diff and mark and remove the 4 bolts from the first part of the workshop manual, and lower it slightly to pull out the springs?

Thank you! That is very helpful. I ordered everything suggested/available from Tire Rack/RockAuto hoping I could assembly the new struts before I take everything apart but it looks like I'll reuse some rubber seats and other small items from the stock set up.

@Haz, can you share the strut info from the workshop manual? Would that be different than the Haynes manual? I know it won't be the exact same as the Bilstein strut by hopefully it's the same components.

Does anyone have a video or pictures that show how to assemble B6 struts with H&R springs? I think I ordered everything I needed but I can't make things fit together how I would expect them to. I found the link below but it's H&R Springs on stock struts. I can't find anything that lists the other parts that are needed to complete a strut. I have the Haynes Manual and it shows stock struts but it still seems like something is missing. Below is what I have. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1wQ3WRD6zvzHaAbxE3hCZpyKIwbBI3-Gs/view

Mine hasn't broken off completely but I think the only screws that haven't broken are along the back. I don't want to do all of the work to remove the unit so I might just break it off the rest of the way and carefully epoxy it back on. I have looked around on here to see this situation and never found it. I wish I could just buy the cover but I don't think it's sold separately.

This thing is sweet! What part of Indiana are you in? I recognize IRP in a few of those pictures. Also, since this is bagged now, what are you doing with those H&R springs?!

I have a 2017 Sport and I felt/heard bad thumping when going through roundabouts. I think it was during the 2-3 shift. I'm not sure if It was because I kinda "launch" into the RAB in second, coast to the middle of the RAB, then accelerate out. I think the 2-3 shift was happening during my coast and then the acceleration was slamming it into gear or something. I reset the TCM in ForScan and it seems to be less aggressive. I don't know if it actually did anything or not but it seems like the reset helped at least a little bit.

The PDF from the comment below has a good diagram showing the part. I ordered my part off of Rock Auto. I picked my car and it showed me the correct parts. I think it was around $50

Thanks. Is there anything that says whether or not the plastic fin shaped cover can be removed from the base? I know there are things between the fin and the base so there has to be a way to get in there. I don't know if they're screwed/clipped together or if they're glued together after the internals are installed.

Does anyone have any experience with this? It looks like the cover might screw onto the base so I might have some broken plastic where it screws together but I can't find any info

I wish this info would've been available a few months ago. I got the aftermarket ones and removed the covers to replace the blue covers on the plastic that fits. It worked fine but just buying and popping in would've been preferred.

? I said the same thing to my fiance. I was going to buy it back, tune it and make it lower and wider. I think it would make it fun on a road course lol. If we had space to store a non street car, it would be highly considered. We also thought about buying it back, putting a bumper cover on it, and calling it "Rebuilt". It's on it's way to a new shop for a second opinion. We might just get it back repaired with a clean title.

It might not be totaled after all. Our insurance sent someone to look at it and the damage to the left frame rail is so minor, he believes it can be pulled back into shape. He said he's seen it done before. He couldn't see any damage to the right frame rail but the shop claims there is. I think we are going to take it to a new shop to get a second opinion. Hopefully we don't have to wait another month for the next shop. Fingers crossed we get our ride back soon. It looks like most of the damage to the frame rail is just on the bumper reinforcement mounting surface which, based on the spot welds, is a part that can be removed and replaced.

Found out our Edge is going to get totaled out yesterday. My fiance was rear-ended in stop and go traffic at a roundabout. It was super low speed but the body shop found the rear frame rails were bent so the quote went from $1500 to $33,000. I hope we can find another low mileage Sport to replace this one as we loved it. We are just waiting on insurance to review the new quote and give us our payout amount. Then we need to figure out how to pay off our current loan, get a new loan, find a new car, etc. Ugh. I thought we were done with this for a while.

I was washing my car a few weeks ago and noticed the cover on the antenna is loose at the front of the fin. I've searched on here and only found antennas broken off completely. Does the cover pop on and off? Can I take it off and stick it back on with double sided tape or do I need to replace the whole unit for the cover to be mounted securely?

Definitely ask. There's no harm in that. But don't be surprised if they say it's not covered. It's fairly cheap and easy to fix so I wasn't super upset that they told me no.

I thought it should've been covered as well. I called the dealership and I think they said it basically just covers the cats. I bought a new part on Rock Auto for around $50 and it took like 5 minutes to install. Looking at 1004ron's attachment, it looks like the purge valve would only be covered for 2 years/24k miles.

I want to use FORScan for logging until I get HPTuners. I'm able to find TPS, Oil temp/pressure, VSS, Boost, etc but I can't seem to find a few that I'd like to see. There are a lot of values for Air temp but does anyone know the correct ones for intake before intercooler and intake after intercooler (manifold intake temp?). I also can't find what I would expect to see for AFR/O2. I know the O2 sensor is wideband so I'd expect to be able to see AFR but I can't find the correct field. Any tips? Are there any other values that you like to use in the dashboard? Also, speaking of TPS, should it range from 0-100%? I think it's like 15% with the car off and no pressure on the pedal. And it only goes to ~85% when I floor it.

I've really only used Adam's so I'm not sure how well others work. I would agree with using polish after compound but that would be to remove haze, not remove the scratches. The compound would/should remove scratches but leave micro scratches/haze which polish would remove. If compound didn't affect the scratches, it might require wet sanding. Using the drill would be more effective than doing it by hand so I would expect that you would see results doing it that way. Good luck! I hope you can get it taken care off.