dabangsta

So the engine is turning over with the new battery, but it won't fire/start? The battery light will be on if the engine is not running and the alternator is not putting out more than 14v (a battery at rest, even at 13.1 volts if just charged and no loads at all will also mean the light is on).

I like that. I was worried about it traveling forward under the drivers feet, but I don't think it can. I carried this under the rear seat of my Escape, but no room in the Edge. I will see how mine fits, the case is a lot larger. I also need to check how it deals with the seat moving, as I am 6ft tall and my wife is 4ft10 so the seat goes nearly fully forward and 3/4 the way back a few times a week or day. That is where I am at now. But unless it is my wallet or my cell phone, I can't remember to grab it. For longer trips when it might be more handy to have around it could get packed along with everything else. I got one for my daughter and a tire inflator, and it is never in the vehicle when it is needed. Yeah, when someone says that that little box with those little alligator clips won't start my car, I gotta say it does great. Expedition with the 5.4 and a battery reading 7v? No problem! No battery? No problem! I still have one around the house with a lead/acid battery that works well for prototyping things and supplying auto voltage, but it won't boost a battery nearly as well as the new Lithium ones.

That image I posted is from the front. I want to make it somewhat easily accessible with a completely dead battery (as opposed to one that some electronics work but it won't start). I am assuming the rear door is openable if locked but no power simply by pulling the interior pull twice. I will probably test that with no battery connected. In my 2012 Fusion I can store it in the trunk since it has a key to unlatch it (and the trunk is 50 degrees cooler than the passenger space). I was wondering what others do, and I like your setup but I use those pockets and I think the cord would get torn up and bashed by stuff rolling around back there. I do check the charged state on mine and it can go at lest 6 months without dropping a full line (out of 5, so less than 20%), I get 5 decent attempts to start a vehicle with mine from fully charged.

Yes, a Lithium (Lithium Iron I think) battery jump pack to jump start a dead battery. I don't know that I feel spry enough to attempt to reach that far back from the back seat for something. I was thinking more along the lines of on top of or next to the TCU.

After finally needing to use my jump box for my own emergency purposes (on another vehicle that is more mechanical than electronic as far as access), I am trying to plan for the best place in my 2019 SEL to keep one. I want to store it under the cargo area, towards the front. I can open the drivers door with the emergency key, reach back and double pull the rear drivers side door to open it without power, right? Then use the manual lever to drop the seat back, then lift up the front of the cargo floor. I have a super amount of emergency related stuff around the spare already, I need to 3d print some more holders and sections so it doesn't rattle, squeak, or make the floor not sit level. The jump box would take up nearly all of the pitiful center console space, probably too large in a dimension to fit in the really small glove box along side the owners manual, and won't even fit in that useless cubby in front of the center console (yes, sour grapes, all the storage areas on this as so small, compared to even what it replaced, a 2017 Escape). Under the hood I am not sure I can find a decent place that doesn't get super hot, and I live where 90+ days a year it is 100+, and just enough rain that it would need to be protected from that splashing up.

Sorry for posting anything confusing. Starting in 2022 all Edge as AWD, FWD was deleted I have a 2019 SEL FWD and it has the smaller rotors (front and rear). All non ST AWD vehicles have the larger front rotors, the same size as the ST, but a different configuration (345mm diameter inverted hat rotor and larger piston calipers by 4mm each piston). I could see where different calipers on the ST/ST-Line even without the performance brake kit could require the larger diameter spare tire wheel.

Is the caliper that much larger on the ST (specifically the ST Performance Brake) setup? The AWD has the larger 345mm rotor, and the performance brake setup is same diameter rotor just a different configuration (at least for 2019, which is what I looked at). I want to do the AWD larger rotor upgrade on my 2019 FWD soon, I need to check the spare. I tried putting on a 1997 Mark VIII 16 inch spare on the rear and it didn't work, it hit the caliper (and it is so very tiny compared to the road wheel and tire, and the temp spare, I didn't expect to drive on it, just get it on the ground). I suspect I might need to update my 17 inch temp spare to an 18 if I do the brake upgrade.

Welcome! Other than keeping up with maintenance and tires and brakes, driving style is about the only thing that can be done to help with fuel mileage. Anticipating better, not going to a throttle position or RPM that puts you in boost and increased fuel is the best way, and easing off sooner and using less brakes also helps. I find I hurt my overall fuel mileage the most getting on the interstate, one spirited run to get on the interstate can drop my average for a tank 1 mpg, which means 16 less miles that tank. Obviously there are times that you have to be semi aggressive and I would never try to merge on some tight on ramps without getting up to speed quickly, but sometimes I will alter my route to get a better on ramp that doesn't require a quick entrance, for example. The city loop/drive cycle used to calculate the EPA rating does include quite a few 20 second idle periods, 18 times 0 to 25 to 30 mph and one up to 55, with pretty aggressive starts and stops, so how your driving environment differs from that could affect how close you get. it is 23 minutes with an average of 19.59 mph over 7.45 miles. I have played around with resetting the vehicles trip as it also gathers that information (time, distance, and average speed) to see why my wife doesn't get the 22 mpg average we should around town. This the dyno map that Ford uses to calculate the rating for the EPA: The Highway rating, if they don't include higher speed schedule, it never goes above 60 mph, and I usually cruise at 79-81 so only in optimal situations will I beat it (I can, just not very often).

Yes, my vehicles generally only have idle and WOT. But that is just the way I drive. The throttle plate really never fully closes, and the actuator controls the idle speed. I don't see how fiddling with the throttle stop would do anything but cause an uncontrollable too high idle or the throttle blade to close to tight that the electronic actuator cannot open it. I am not even real sure that is an actual mechanical stop, that bolt that goes into the actuator.

Throttle body does not have an idle adjustment! It is a stop, and if it is improperly adjusted, could result in the throttle blade either not able to open, or not able close. I wouldn't touch it. The idle is completely controlled by the PCM and metered air. It doesn't make sense that the idle would be lower for a tow package equipped vehicle. 9 mpg is really bad. The EPA rating for FWD is 16 city, 24 highway, 19 combined. AWD is 15 city, 22 highway, 18 combined. My AWD 3.5 powered vehicle gets driven hard and on surface streets only (1 mile at 65 mph) and I get within 1 mpg of the EPA rating for it (which is 18 mpg city, it is a 2012 Fusion Sport AWD). Every stop light is like a 1/4 drag (up to the speed limit of course), I don't coast very often, I manually hold lower gears so I frequently am cruising at 3500-4500 rpm. I might not do as many very short (3-4 miles) trips, most are 15-25 or more, I don't idle after startup waiting for the AC to cool it off, I just go.

For our 21mm capped lugs, they sell a variety of half mm sizes, like 21.5mm/22mm/22.5mm (if the cap is still on but distorted), and 18.5mm I think fits if the cap is completely off. In my environment I should be just fine with these capped lug nuts (my 1997 Lincoln Mark VIII has them) with basically unlimited ability to easily remove them and install them. Until either a LOF "tech" does a NASCAR pitstop style rotation, can't be bothered to fully engage the lug, or has a crappy socket, and they they are screwed. I got 9 tire rotations out of the QuickLane (LOF side of Ford dealerships) with no problems, lugs in perfect condition and the OEM lug wrench worked fine. Get tires at Costco and they fully chewed up 5 lugs, another 10 were basically garbage and I needed 19.5mm to get them off (2017 Escape smaller lug hex), so I always get solid lugs and replace them when it is easy and convenient, not with a flat at 2 am in the rain on a dirt road.

I have 4 Ford I connect my phone to, and I always rename the SYNC item on my phones list of Bluetooth items to the vehicle name for the times I need to actually initiate a connection (mostly my older SYNC 1 and 1.1 cars). I have to do the same with the OBD-II adapters (I have some specialty ones, ones that work better with Ford, some with Toyota, etc so one doesn't really cut it).

What version of the software do you have? There was a new release within the last week that seems to fix some related issues. I had rev 22251 and I was in denial about other people posting about the screen going black but still playing last input. But it eventually happened to me numerous times. I did the "soft reset" (which is pressing seek up (=>) and power at the same time) until it reset. That fixed it, but it would happen again within a day or 2, sometimes in the same drive cycle. I checked the OTA updates and didn't show one, but the Ford support page did (23188) and I did the update via a USB drive and so far no black screens again. Some other users think that the black screen was related to temperature, I didn't see it when ambient temps were in the 110's and interior temps in excess of 140 degrees, but a bit later when it cooled off to around 100.

I have SYNC 1 in my 2012 Fusion, and SYNC 1.1 in my 2015 Fusion (should be the same as yours). I had to be sure they were both updated to a mid level like version 4.4 (not the latest, as it disables specific functionality I use, the mic for Hey Google/Siri and commands on the phone), but I still have to either pull the fuse for SYNC (not easy on either Fusion), or pull the battery for a few minutes, then SYNC works like it should for 4-6 months or so. Sometimes it slightly glitches and can be cured with turning off the car, opening a door, and starting again.

There are various SSM and CSPs for 2017-2022 vehicles and deep sleep message when: the battery voltage is above 9.5v SOC is above 50% it hasn't sat for 14 days no TCU update received OTA (all of the above items mean it should not go into deep sleep, and a BMS reset then diagnostics should be ran if the battery tests out) My parents 2020 Explorer suffered through that, and the dealer was oblivious to any of the SSMs for it. I am not clear on if they had issues with auto start/stop or not. Did the dealer actually test the CCA of the battery or possibly just a quick voltage test? Seems early for a battery to have gone flat, but when I let my battery in my 2017 Escape get down to 200 CCA (it was a 760 CCA AGM battery), it wouldn't do auto start/stop (always the grey A with the slash), it would go into deep sleep overnight, and I couldn't listen the radio in accessory mode (which the equivalent to that in your 22 Edge might not be the same).