dabangsta

Sounds like it probably has the 3.5, which was the standard engine for an SEL for that year. The 20 extra HP from a 3.7 could be appreciated but probably not as apparent as it seems. If the water pump/seal failed, and failed in a way to fill the crank case full of coolant and water, and it was ran that way, it likely needs a replacement engine. $3,000-$6,000 (especially with AWD) in labor to R&R an engine and replace the water pump and timing, $1500-$2000 for a used engine delivered, maybe far less if you can source it locally from a junk yard, especially a you pull it type place, but lots of additional work.

Found the connectors with pins for $2.40 each, so even with shipping I am still under $16 and can do 3 of them. I don't know what size crimper I need for these pins, I don't think my small ones or my large ones will do them cleanly, so will measure them and add to my tool collection.

That is part of MyKey. You can restrict a key for a new driver or or loaning it out (I set it up for my 2012 Fusion for my son at first). I mean...the answer is to buckle up, but if you get a message about MyKey enabled when you start it up, you need a second admin key to turn off MyKey if that is not what you want (limit radio volume, limit top speed, warn at set speeds, mute radio with no seat belt, etc).

There are details in your owners manual on pointing them and where they should shine. You mark a line on a wall at height of the center of the projector lens, get vehicle 25 feet away, and it shows where the cut off line and concentrated light should be (each side). I have similar H11 bulb projector style headlights in my 2012 Fusion, and other than a foot lower to the ground, they are fine. I actually hate the 2019 LED headlights. They have lots of dark and bright areas, and if I have 50 pounds of stuff in the cargo area they blind oncoming traffic. They are are perfectly aligned so I might add air bag (airlift) to the rear because I do frequently travel with a full load.

It is held in place with a torx screw under a rubber plug over a hole in the sill. When the locksmith came out to rekey mine they counted the number of turns obsessively (and careful not to drop it inside the door!), and I am assuming (they went to their secret mobile lair) they took the cylinder apart to see what number plungers it had to code into their machine (I didn't have any cut emergency keys for mine). The one from Ford should have the directions on how to recode it to match, I don't know that it the cylinder is removeable from that piece or not.

2015+ has individual TPMS. What model and options, does it have the 2 information screens on each side of a central speedo, or a single center screen? The 2016 owners manual shows that it should be available the type 2 (2 screens) in the Display Mode (it is there in my 2019), and center screen in the Driver Assist settings. When a tire goes low and triggers the system in my 2019 it brings that display up and shows the pressures and which one is low. My 2017 Escape had individual pressures, but didn't display in the instrument panel, but I could get them using Torque app on my phone and an OBD-II adapter. My 2012 Fusion just tells me low tire and doesn't have individual pressures available in any way.

Oh, I hadn't tried that. Yes, it has a proximity sensor that only allows the lift gate to open, doesn't unlock all the doors. Would be handy without the hands free sensor.

When you have your arms full of groceries or your giant key fob is buried in your purse or murse (man purse) because you never need it out because of Intelligent Access and hands free? Need to go to a door first (didn't they decontent the rear door sensors?) to open the lift gate with the button? Just playing devils advocate as to when and why it is handy. I didn't want it on my last vehicle but it was a very common standard option on vehicles sitting on lots, so it came with it, and we got used to it, even with all the weirdness.

Turned on in the information display (what you enabled to see) Ignition on Not in park Light switch set to Auto lamp (this is different from non-configureable in that it would also do it in Off and Parking Lamps) Headlamps are off (so in Auto but dark enough to turn them on)

What model and options, and what are you expecting to be used as the DRL? SEL or higher has the LED signature lighting triangles on the bumper, SE comes standard with configurable DRL in the US.

I could work on the quality and orientation I print these as, and use a better filament and clean them up, but I dig being able to print and mock up stuff. Unrelated but McMaster-Carr provides 3d models of all their stuff, bolts, screws, nuts, plugs, mesh, pipe fittings...everything! I have mocked up stuff and made real ready for use stuff from those models knowing mechanical limits and details that can't be replicated. Pipe plugs (for electric boxes), pipe fittings, rod ends, hose fittings are usually what I start with.

I currently just have thin pins pushed into the back of the connector to power my dash cam. I don't want to cut the wires, and I don't want to spend $35-50 for the Dongar or other one. I have found the male and female shell connector part numbers, but I can't seem to figure out what pins and sockets to order. The places these are available the shipping is the killer, so I need to get it right the first time or I might as well just order the expensive one (but I like to tinker and annoy myself to save a few bucks). I would get a few but don't want to get into the manufacturing business, but always get one to use, one to lose (or one to break). If I buy enough parts to make 3, it will be $20 (shipping is $8), but not knowing what pins and sockets, if I get it wrong, another $10 for each time I try. I found that most sellers of these also point to the 3D models for them, so I was able to download them and print them to mock them up! Wiring side connector/wire socket is Molex 31072-1010 and male pin/female connector is Molex 31072-1040. The datasheets and technical drawings and information pages don't reference the pins and sockets for use, and there are so many different sizes and mounting types I can't narrow it down.

I have 2 small toy poodle(ish) dogs, that when we take them out (leashed) of their crate in the cargo area, and put them on the ground, they walk under the bumper and start it closing all the time. I make sure I don't have the key with me while washing it any more, and the number of times humans inadvertently trigger it is far fewer, it still happens rarely. If I am making multiple trips to unload, I always leave my key away from the vehicle, and have to take my loaded down arm and use the elbow to press the power close button, otherwise if I have the key one of the 3 or 4 times I return to the car I will step under the bumper and start it to close (when reaching far in to get stuff at the front of the cargo area).

The hands free liftgate was changed in 2021. 2021+ it was only available standard on the Titanium and in the 401a high level ST package. No longer available on SEL or ST-Line. Oddly enough it was standard on all ST-Lines in 2020. I doubt the dealer led you astray but there is enough information out there to know what is and isn't available. I am guessing you had outdated details on something that was removed 4 years ago.

No, there is not a recall, customer satisfaction program, extended coverage, or anything other than the TSB for the coolant intrusion issue. There is only a TSB...which gives dealers guidelines on various indicators and tests, and if under the factory warranty or extended warranty, it is covered, else it is on the owner to pay up. I think the latest TSB is 19-2346 (https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10169807-0001.pdf) the biggest item is of course the replacement long block and 13.3 to 15 hours labor.