dabangsta

They add a slice of light way down low that doesn't illuminate up high, they are effective fog lights. If you are going to keep the LEDs, you need to clock them correctly (turn them if they have that adjustment) to get the best light out of them. It helps to know how the projector fog light works. There is a slot the light goes across between the bulb and the lens: The projector lens actually flips the light (so any changes made to the slot or gate will affect it opposite, add a hot spot on bottom will add it to the top of the projected beam). Most of these I saw in the junk yard (when working on a project, that I abandoned as it was counter productive) were pitted (with them being low to the ground and not protected behind a lens like the headlight). The pitting on mine (mocking up some LED rings, which were actually brighter than the fogs, so I didn't finish it) is not quite as bad: Just the LED ring in, this is why I didn't go forward with it (you can see the halo in an artifact way up high): With fog light on, compare no halo with halo. This is what a non focused non projected light would look like, not a good fog light at all: What that non shaped (by fluted lens, projector beam, capped and reflector, etc) low power LED looks like:

I guess it depends on what your expectations are. They are really only obviously on if your headlights are also on as a small strip down low and to the sides. They aren't driving lights, they don't throw, they don't add light up high, just low to the ground and close. I found that H11 LEDs made them worse. I don't actually drive in fog, but use them to illuminate the ground close to the car when going slow. They also help illuminate animal eyes that headlights might not. My 2012 Fusion has the exact same fog lights. They are sorta pitted but maybe not that bad. They are available on the aftermarket for $25-50 each. This a day shot on a wall: fog lights only:

So: Pressing a button to lock/unlock/remote start doesn't work from outside the vehicle? Proximity unlock/lock (pulling on door handle with key near to unlock, pressing button on door handle with key near to lock) doesn't work? Proximity to liftgate open (pushing button in pull opening with key near) doesn't work? Once in the vehicle, with key fob, pressing start button says no fob found until you use the emergency slot? Not related to the issue, but you shouldn't clean the dielectric grease off the contacts, most of these remotes have text that says not to.

Your 2009 was a transition year, from Gold to Dark Green. HOAT to POAT change. If there was one thing I wouldn't trust to AI is coolant in any Ford with the 3.5. I changed my coolant every 40,000 miles on my 2012 Fusion with the 3.5, and at 160,000 I had the water pump failure that filled the crank case full of coolant. You can't even say if it is conventional green or long life, just keep pasting in the formulation. Look up the Ford specification like WSS-M97B51-A1 or WSS-M97B55-A (your owners manual should tell you, and if it is like my other transition year cars, a sticker on the degas bottle, or a build date cut off) and see of the coolant you are trying to use, I assume the Peak Full Force (conventional or long life) wasn't tested, certified, or says it meets either of those specifications.

There are quite a few posted dyno runs for F-150 and Bronco owners using 87 octane. They show that compared to the numbers from Ford, which are done with 93 octane, are down around 15 hp, some compare same vehicle 87 and 93. I don't really understand how the standard base engine from a truck (and not even the current generation) is considered high output and requires 93 or it is being abused. For the chassis it is on, it is the HO option, but not pushing any limits there. 10 extra hp?

The 2.7 in the F-150 and Bronco show on the dyno a loss of 15-17hp from the factory 325 when running 87 octane. Ford rates the HP with premium fuel (and mpg with 87). When premium was $.20 a gallon more I would run it in my premium recommended vehicles. A slight SOP feeling of better power/driving, and probably due to changes in driving dynamics, better mileage (but even at $.20 a gallon more expensive it rarely was a wash, and more expensive to run premium). Currently most places local to be premium (91 here) is $.80 to $.95 more than 87 (and for those that care, $1.25 more than Unleaded88). Personally I don't miss the 10 hp I lose running 87 octane in my SEL.

You should get plenty of clues before it will leave you stranded. As an extension of this thread, I noticed that when locking and unlocking my vehicle many times without starting it (I was helping someone move, from a distant parking spot, with a lot of people around) that eventually only the drivers door would lock/unlock with the proximity sensors. When you stop the engine running and remain in the car in delay exit mode, and the radio starts shutting down to save the battery. When FordPass says that it is disabling remote access (this can happen after a few months of it sitting, but if you drive it regularly and get it, then it is getting close). As mentioned, a good test (meaning they also charge it first) that shows SoC, CCA, resistance, SoH, and voltage will help determine that. I pushed an AGM battery down to 200 CCA (a 760 CCA rated battery) and used it for 6 months, because I had a jump box, I was the only driver (no wife or kids), it was around town. Once the wife took it back over, and we went on vacation, I replaced it. It started the vehicle fine, but auto start/stop was always disabled, couldn't listen to the radio with the engine off, and every 2 weeks remote access was disabled.

Well, you made it your own, can't fault you there. Most people complain about the poor headlight output, can't imagine them with what looks like tint. A widebody Edge kit I would love to see, and no wheel well gap.

I don't think the Edge got Ford/SYNC Connect until 2019. If these older posts you see about adding Ford/SYNC Connect to older vehicles were 3G modems, then you can just substitute a 4G/LTE modem. My 2016 MKZ was released with a 3g modem/TCU, and I bought a 4G TCU and 4G antenna and upgraded it. I haven't seen any posts or documentation in adding Ford/SYNC Connect to a vehicle that doesn't have it, other than something that plugs into the OBD port.

Picking through the edit and added posts. need v3.4 to use CarPlay/Android Auto? no, you need 2.2 or higher, 3.0 for the early hardware is the highest it can go natively (without using alternate method to install), and it supports wired CarPlay/Android Auto AsBuilt data is 3.4 not 3.0 not really related. AsBuilt is configuration, not software revision. I guess the selection for the boot screen slightly changes between 3.0 and 3.4. didn't install updated media/usb hub I would find that error prompt every start up annoying, and having the part and a small effort to replace? Are you really gonna tear into the center console and center stack to replace the APIM and screen? I am not sure that side loading 3.4 onto the APIM would cause issues when the demand self test was ran by the dealer, I suspect it wouldn't.

In 2021 the AWD Edge (SE, SEL, Titanium, ST-Line) got the larger vented rear rotors. The FWD still had solid. 2022+ are all AWD so all have larger vented rotors. I don't think the brake pads are different between the smaller non vented and the larger vented rotors. The front pads are the same for the smaller FWD rotors as they are for the larger AWD rotors.

I forgot to add I tried the clips that are used by Ford to fix this issue with the 2020-2024 Explorer (I grabbed a handful of them from the you pull it junk yard, same as used for most Ford cowl covers) but unlike the Explorer, there is not a large enough flat spot to use the clips. 25-2614.pdf

For under $200 you can get a newer APIM that supports 3.4 of the software (it is way more responsive, darker interface). Most places can and will program it with your VINs as build data, or you can do it yourself. If you want Apple CarPlay via the USB cable then you need 2.2 or higher of the software and the media console USB hub updated. I too have many questions about what actual version you have, but between the error code U3000:04 and the error not enough space, it likely is a hardware issue.

Looks like the Weathertech generic trim to fit mat (that hasn't been trimmed). I trimmed mine for my 2017 Escape, and just use it as is, too small, in my Edge

2019 2.0 didn't get the engine cover, but all seem to still have the hood insulating pad. I think 2020 both were deleted. You have some of the attachment points for the engine cover. With the change to the location of the oil fill and dipstick for the 2019+ engine, the Ford engine cover is difficult to find for your 2019+ (I don't think they made one). The Lincoln badged one seems easier to source. There is a stud and a ball top that replaces a regular stud on the engine for one of the attachment points. Personally I think it helps a bit with the loud clacky high pressure direct injection injectors and pump. I left it off of my 2016 MKZ, and while it is subtle, there is more clacking, but it isn't silent (nor is it all that loud).