dabangsta

They add a slice of light way down low that doesn't illuminate up high, they are effective fog lights. If you are going to keep the LEDs, you need to clock them correctly (turn them if they have that adjustment) to get the best light out of them. It helps to know how the projector fog light works. There is a slot the light goes across between the bulb and the lens: The projector lens actually flips the light (so any changes made to the slot or gate will affect it opposite, add a hot spot on bottom will add it to the top of the projected beam). Most of these I saw in the junk yard (when working on a project, that I abandoned as it was counter productive) were pitted (with them being low to the ground and not protected behind a lens like the headlight). The pitting on mine (mocking up some LED rings, which were actually brighter than the fogs, so I didn't finish it) is not quite as bad: Just the LED ring in, this is why I didn't go forward with it (you can see the halo in an artifact way up high): With fog light on, compare no halo with halo. This is what a non focused non projected light would look like, not a good fog light at all: What that non shaped (by fluted lens, projector beam, capped and reflector, etc) low power LED looks like:

I guess it depends on what your expectations are. They are really only obviously on if your headlights are also on as a small strip down low and to the sides. They aren't driving lights, they don't throw, they don't add light up high, just low to the ground and close. I found that H11 LEDs made them worse. I don't actually drive in fog, but use them to illuminate the ground close to the car when going slow. They also help illuminate animal eyes that headlights might not. My 2012 Fusion has the exact same fog lights. They are sorta pitted but maybe not that bad. They are available on the aftermarket for $25-50 each. This a day shot on a wall: fog lights only:

So: Pressing a button to lock/unlock/remote start doesn't work from outside the vehicle? Proximity unlock/lock (pulling on door handle with key near to unlock, pressing button on door handle with key near to lock) doesn't work? Proximity to liftgate open (pushing button in pull opening with key near) doesn't work? Once in the vehicle, with key fob, pressing start button says no fob found until you use the emergency slot? Not related to the issue, but you shouldn't clean the dielectric grease off the contacts, most of these remotes have text that says not to.

Your 2009 was a transition year, from Gold to Dark Green. HOAT to POAT change. If there was one thing I wouldn't trust to AI is coolant in any Ford with the 3.5. I changed my coolant every 40,000 miles on my 2012 Fusion with the 3.5, and at 160,000 I had the water pump failure that filled the crank case full of coolant. You can't even say if it is conventional green or long life, just keep pasting in the formulation. Look up the Ford specification like WSS-M97B51-A1 or WSS-M97B55-A (your owners manual should tell you, and if it is like my other transition year cars, a sticker on the degas bottle, or a build date cut off) and see of the coolant you are trying to use, I assume the Peak Full Force (conventional or long life) wasn't tested, certified, or says it meets either of those specifications.

There are quite a few posted dyno runs for F-150 and Bronco owners using 87 octane. They show that compared to the numbers from Ford, which are done with 93 octane, are down around 15 hp, some compare same vehicle 87 and 93. I don't really understand how the standard base engine from a truck (and not even the current generation) is considered high output and requires 93 or it is being abused. For the chassis it is on, it is the HO option, but not pushing any limits there. 10 extra hp?

The 2.7 in the F-150 and Bronco show on the dyno a loss of 15-17hp from the factory 325 when running 87 octane. Ford rates the HP with premium fuel (and mpg with 87). When premium was $.20 a gallon more I would run it in my premium recommended vehicles. A slight SOP feeling of better power/driving, and probably due to changes in driving dynamics, better mileage (but even at $.20 a gallon more expensive it rarely was a wash, and more expensive to run premium). Currently most places local to be premium (91 here) is $.80 to $.95 more than 87 (and for those that care, $1.25 more than Unleaded88). Personally I don't miss the 10 hp I lose running 87 octane in my SEL.

You should get plenty of clues before it will leave you stranded. As an extension of this thread, I noticed that when locking and unlocking my vehicle many times without starting it (I was helping someone move, from a distant parking spot, with a lot of people around) that eventually only the drivers door would lock/unlock with the proximity sensors. When you stop the engine running and remain in the car in delay exit mode, and the radio starts shutting down to save the battery. When FordPass says that it is disabling remote access (this can happen after a few months of it sitting, but if you drive it regularly and get it, then it is getting close). As mentioned, a good test (meaning they also charge it first) that shows SoC, CCA, resistance, SoH, and voltage will help determine that. I pushed an AGM battery down to 200 CCA (a 760 CCA rated battery) and used it for 6 months, because I had a jump box, I was the only driver (no wife or kids), it was around town. Once the wife took it back over, and we went on vacation, I replaced it. It started the vehicle fine, but auto start/stop was always disabled, couldn't listen to the radio with the engine off, and every 2 weeks remote access was disabled.

Well, you made it your own, can't fault you there. Most people complain about the poor headlight output, can't imagine them with what looks like tint. A widebody Edge kit I would love to see, and no wheel well gap.

I don't think the Edge got Ford/SYNC Connect until 2019. If these older posts you see about adding Ford/SYNC Connect to older vehicles were 3G modems, then you can just substitute a 4G/LTE modem. My 2016 MKZ was released with a 3g modem/TCU, and I bought a 4G TCU and 4G antenna and upgraded it. I haven't seen any posts or documentation in adding Ford/SYNC Connect to a vehicle that doesn't have it, other than something that plugs into the OBD port.

Picking through the edit and added posts. need v3.4 to use CarPlay/Android Auto? no, you need 2.2 or higher, 3.0 for the early hardware is the highest it can go natively (without using alternate method to install), and it supports wired CarPlay/Android Auto AsBuilt data is 3.4 not 3.0 not really related. AsBuilt is configuration, not software revision. I guess the selection for the boot screen slightly changes between 3.0 and 3.4. didn't install updated media/usb hub I would find that error prompt every start up annoying, and having the part and a small effort to replace? Are you really gonna tear into the center console and center stack to replace the APIM and screen? I am not sure that side loading 3.4 onto the APIM would cause issues when the demand self test was ran by the dealer, I suspect it wouldn't.

In 2021 the AWD Edge (SE, SEL, Titanium, ST-Line) got the larger vented rear rotors. The FWD still had solid. 2022+ are all AWD so all have larger vented rotors. I don't think the brake pads are different between the smaller non vented and the larger vented rotors. The front pads are the same for the smaller FWD rotors as they are for the larger AWD rotors.

I forgot to add I tried the clips that are used by Ford to fix this issue with the 2020-2024 Explorer (I grabbed a handful of them from the you pull it junk yard, same as used for most Ford cowl covers) but unlike the Explorer, there is not a large enough flat spot to use the clips. 25-2614.pdf

For under $200 you can get a newer APIM that supports 3.4 of the software (it is way more responsive, darker interface). Most places can and will program it with your VINs as build data, or you can do it yourself. If you want Apple CarPlay via the USB cable then you need 2.2 or higher of the software and the media console USB hub updated. I too have many questions about what actual version you have, but between the error code U3000:04 and the error not enough space, it likely is a hardware issue.

Looks like the Weathertech generic trim to fit mat (that hasn't been trimmed). I trimmed mine for my 2017 Escape, and just use it as is, too small, in my Edge

2019 2.0 didn't get the engine cover, but all seem to still have the hood insulating pad. I think 2020 both were deleted. You have some of the attachment points for the engine cover. With the change to the location of the oil fill and dipstick for the 2019+ engine, the Ford engine cover is difficult to find for your 2019+ (I don't think they made one). The Lincoln badged one seems easier to source. There is a stud and a ball top that replaces a regular stud on the engine for one of the attachment points. Personally I think it helps a bit with the loud clacky high pressure direct injection injectors and pump. I left it off of my 2016 MKZ, and while it is subtle, there is more clacking, but it isn't silent (nor is it all that loud).

Apparently my family are aggressive cup holder users. The epoxy and other adhesives didn't work out, shocker, I know. I was going to get the POM plastic pop rivets and tool, but I figured I would try a 1/8 aluminum with a backing on both sides. I think this is the winner. I have a plastic welding kit I will do the 2 that don't have an open backside, but I won't be doing it again, I will order another cup holder. The gore: I found a decent length one, I have quite a few mismatched collections of rivets. I would have liked a little longer body, but these snapped the mandrel before enough pressure to break the plastic, and with the backers, shouldn't pull through.

2019+ got AWD disconnect is one difference, even it that doesn't mean the change is in the PTU.

I didn't have a warranty, and my 2019 8F35 died. They said they could pull it and diagnose it and fix it, with a cost of $4k-10k. I wimped out and just said replace it. I was not doing well with a household of 3 with 3 jobs and school and one vehicle. I sorta wish I had them diagnose it and fix it versus replace it, as that erased all gains of buying a used vehicle, but I think it is my last Ford, which would be weird with a 40 year Ford/Lincoln/Mercury only history.

Fusion wheel is the same(ish), and I think they more frequently have the paddle shifters than the Edge.

I think most get a used steering wheel, and depending on the wheel, just pull off the switches, back cover, and wiring and put them on their existing wheel, if the one they get is in worse shape than theirs, or doesn't have the right cruise switches. While the switches are available my themselves new or used, I don't think the rear cover is, many steering wheels I see for sale used on eBay they remove the paddle shifters, many have the rear cover with the holes but no paddle/switches.

Something seemed off last trip. My giant cup no longer required being pushed into the cup holder, and it wobbled. Come to find out the bottom on the front of was sagging, the fingers pushed out, and the rear one was lose and the rubber bottom had the tab out of reach between the pieces. Driving through dust storms and living in the desert these piano black panels are terrible looking in a day. So after pulling out the side trim of the center console, pulling up on the center console at the rear and front, and disconnecting the auto Stop/Start button, removed the cup holder section from the console. The sonic welded spots had all broken. elastic/silicone/rubber band that provides the resistance for the fingers that grip your cup(s) I just used a 2 part epoxy after roughing up the surfaces. I have the feeling I will be doing this again soon, I am going to get POM rivets for that now that I see what I am up against. Yes, I forgot to install the band before putting the bottom back on, so I had to get creative with it. These are $25 from online Ford dealers, so if I screw up too bad next time I will just buy a new one. But the posts and welds are pretty bad.

2023 rain sensing wipers are Titanium and ST only, not even optional or part of any packages for the SE/SEL/ST-Line. EDIT: removed as part of the 2021 sweeping changes.

A lot of either wrong manuals in your vehicles infotainment system, or...who knows. Creative interpretation? E15 is okay for 2001 and newer vehicles, some are grand fathered in due to the EPA testing them. Every Ford Edge. 2013 or newer, in the owners manual, states that not more than 15% ethanol. You know what is not more than 15%???? 15%. Sure, if I had bottomless pockets, or didn't drive 22,000 miles a year, or didn't have a appliance CUV, sure, always 91/93 pure gas 0% ethanol. Especially if it sat with a tank of gas for more than a few days, which mine doesn't. https://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/vdirsnet/OwnerManual/Home/Content?variantid=9611&languageCode=en&countryCode=USA&moidRef=G2126645&Uid=G2170137&ProcUid=G2134123&userMarket=usa&div=f&vFilteringEnabled=False&buildtype=we

Higher octane than recommended and under the ethanol percentage cut off, and same ethanol percentage as winter gas, and that is bad? I guess I think of this vehicle as just an appliance. Save $1200 a year in gas, 20%, is huge for me. I might have jumped to conclusions that it is related to the gas, or maybe it is fine when it isn't 110 degrees, or lower altitude than where I filled up. I still am trying to get the stored/historical code, but nothing is showing it. If you think that running 93 octane is the only way, good on you. It is an $.80 premium over 87 where I live, $12 a tank. Fill it twice a week, that is a steak dinner for a family. If it was my weekend toy, like my previous car, sure, it would get premium. 4,000 miles a year the difference is less than $200.

Not E85. Plenty of hard core tuned for E85 performance vehicles around me, they are used to getting 150 miles per tank. The smell of of burning is unique and easy to spot. I have never used E85, in an E85 capable vehicle the cost versus mpg doesn't work out. E15 is only 5% more than normal summer gas, and $5 a tank less in the middle of a 3000 mile week is appreciated especially after $5.79 a gallon in CA.