dabangsta

That would be Lane Keeping. It can alert or aid with steering wheel vibrations or very minimal torque input to try to keep in the lane. Lane Centering will actually provide enough torque to fully keep the vehicle centered (well, what it considers centered), they call it assist but it will decently follow curvy roads if the markings are detectable. I hate and enjoy it on my 2019. I don't like what it considers centered, and I like that it does help with fatigue on longer drivers (I frequently do 6-12 hour drives).

Ford dealer handed me an FL2123 instead of an FL910S (FL910S not readily available anymore locally via auto parts store or Walmart). I declined and got them from Rockauto and put off the oil change. While I understand that it seems like it is a new manufacturer for it, and they call it an OE Performance replacement, I don't see things like the silicone ADBV (and not real clear if that is needed with the orientation of it anyways in this usage), anyone seen anything about this and other FL2xxx replacements for other common Ford ones (my 3.5 takes an FL500S and the dealer had none of it in stock either)? The S denotes the silicone ADBV and is obvious to see through the holes at the mating side, don't see it with the FL2123. Do most here use the larger FL400S in place of the FL910S?

I am sorry, but anyone with a 2019+ that doesn't have the high level headlights is dazzling oncoming traffic with low beams only, forget about high beams. I never thought that getting a Titanium since it has leveling headlights would be required, but if I have 50 pounds of stuff in the cargo area everyone flashes me, instead of only 30% of people if I don't. NTHSA gives them poor rating. Also this requires the matrix headlights, that I don't think even the high level US headlights do, it isn't standard in the UK either, optional on the ST-Line.

It shouldn't be checked hot. If it is hot it very likely is well over the max line (which is max cold).

I bought the SP550X as specified in the owners manual, which in the old part number scheme is CYFS12YPCTX (which each set of letters and numbers can be decoded), but they also show SP594 when I put in my VIN at fordparts.com SP550(X) - CYFS 12 YPC TX SP594 - CYFS 12 YR T3 The first group of letters are the thread, reach, seal type. 12 is the heat range. the suffixes includes ones I have never seen before, and all decoders I can find don't include these (like EE or PP is Double Platinum, N is Nickel) Anecdotally the shell/threads look like a different material, like nickel versus something else shiny but more golden hue (stick with me here...). I am going to put in the SP550 but curious if anyone knew how to decode the suffix and what the difference in these plugs are. I already know that SP550X supersedes the previous SP537 (CYFS 12 Y2)

Sounds like it probably has the 3.5, which was the standard engine for an SEL for that year. The 20 extra HP from a 3.7 could be appreciated but probably not as apparent as it seems. If the water pump/seal failed, and failed in a way to fill the crank case full of coolant and water, and it was ran that way, it likely needs a replacement engine. $3,000-$6,000 (especially with AWD) in labor to R&R an engine and replace the water pump and timing, $1500-$2000 for a used engine delivered, maybe far less if you can source it locally from a junk yard, especially a you pull it type place, but lots of additional work.

Found the connectors with pins for $2.40 each, so even with shipping I am still under $16 and can do 3 of them. I don't know what size crimper I need for these pins, I don't think my small ones or my large ones will do them cleanly, so will measure them and add to my tool collection.

That is part of MyKey. You can restrict a key for a new driver or or loaning it out (I set it up for my 2012 Fusion for my son at first). I mean...the answer is to buckle up, but if you get a message about MyKey enabled when you start it up, you need a second admin key to turn off MyKey if that is not what you want (limit radio volume, limit top speed, warn at set speeds, mute radio with no seat belt, etc).

There are details in your owners manual on pointing them and where they should shine. You mark a line on a wall at height of the center of the projector lens, get vehicle 25 feet away, and it shows where the cut off line and concentrated light should be (each side). I have similar H11 bulb projector style headlights in my 2012 Fusion, and other than a foot lower to the ground, they are fine. I actually hate the 2019 LED headlights. They have lots of dark and bright areas, and if I have 50 pounds of stuff in the cargo area they blind oncoming traffic. They are are perfectly aligned so I might add air bag (airlift) to the rear because I do frequently travel with a full load.

It is held in place with a torx screw under a rubber plug over a hole in the sill. When the locksmith came out to rekey mine they counted the number of turns obsessively (and careful not to drop it inside the door!), and I am assuming (they went to their secret mobile lair) they took the cylinder apart to see what number plungers it had to code into their machine (I didn't have any cut emergency keys for mine). The one from Ford should have the directions on how to recode it to match, I don't know that it the cylinder is removeable from that piece or not.

2015+ has individual TPMS. What model and options, does it have the 2 information screens on each side of a central speedo, or a single center screen? The 2016 owners manual shows that it should be available the type 2 (2 screens) in the Display Mode (it is there in my 2019), and center screen in the Driver Assist settings. When a tire goes low and triggers the system in my 2019 it brings that display up and shows the pressures and which one is low. My 2017 Escape had individual pressures, but didn't display in the instrument panel, but I could get them using Torque app on my phone and an OBD-II adapter. My 2012 Fusion just tells me low tire and doesn't have individual pressures available in any way.

Oh, I hadn't tried that. Yes, it has a proximity sensor that only allows the lift gate to open, doesn't unlock all the doors. Would be handy without the hands free sensor.

When you have your arms full of groceries or your giant key fob is buried in your purse or murse (man purse) because you never need it out because of Intelligent Access and hands free? Need to go to a door first (didn't they decontent the rear door sensors?) to open the lift gate with the button? Just playing devils advocate as to when and why it is handy. I didn't want it on my last vehicle but it was a very common standard option on vehicles sitting on lots, so it came with it, and we got used to it, even with all the weirdness.

Turned on in the information display (what you enabled to see) Ignition on Not in park Light switch set to Auto lamp (this is different from non-configureable in that it would also do it in Off and Parking Lamps) Headlamps are off (so in Auto but dark enough to turn them on)

What model and options, and what are you expecting to be used as the DRL? SEL or higher has the LED signature lighting triangles on the bumper, SE comes standard with configurable DRL in the US.

I could work on the quality and orientation I print these as, and use a better filament and clean them up, but I dig being able to print and mock up stuff. Unrelated but McMaster-Carr provides 3d models of all their stuff, bolts, screws, nuts, plugs, mesh, pipe fittings...everything! I have mocked up stuff and made real ready for use stuff from those models knowing mechanical limits and details that can't be replicated. Pipe plugs (for electric boxes), pipe fittings, rod ends, hose fittings are usually what I start with.

I currently just have thin pins pushed into the back of the connector to power my dash cam. I don't want to cut the wires, and I don't want to spend $35-50 for the Dongar or other one. I have found the male and female shell connector part numbers, but I can't seem to figure out what pins and sockets to order. The places these are available the shipping is the killer, so I need to get it right the first time or I might as well just order the expensive one (but I like to tinker and annoy myself to save a few bucks). I would get a few but don't want to get into the manufacturing business, but always get one to use, one to lose (or one to break). If I buy enough parts to make 3, it will be $20 (shipping is $8), but not knowing what pins and sockets, if I get it wrong, another $10 for each time I try. I found that most sellers of these also point to the 3D models for them, so I was able to download them and print them to mock them up! Wiring side connector/wire socket is Molex 31072-1010 and male pin/female connector is Molex 31072-1040. The datasheets and technical drawings and information pages don't reference the pins and sockets for use, and there are so many different sizes and mounting types I can't narrow it down.

I have 2 small toy poodle(ish) dogs, that when we take them out (leashed) of their crate in the cargo area, and put them on the ground, they walk under the bumper and start it closing all the time. I make sure I don't have the key with me while washing it any more, and the number of times humans inadvertently trigger it is far fewer, it still happens rarely. If I am making multiple trips to unload, I always leave my key away from the vehicle, and have to take my loaded down arm and use the elbow to press the power close button, otherwise if I have the key one of the 3 or 4 times I return to the car I will step under the bumper and start it to close (when reaching far in to get stuff at the front of the cargo area).

The hands free liftgate was changed in 2021. 2021+ it was only available standard on the Titanium and in the 401a high level ST package. No longer available on SEL or ST-Line. Oddly enough it was standard on all ST-Lines in 2020. I doubt the dealer led you astray but there is enough information out there to know what is and isn't available. I am guessing you had outdated details on something that was removed 4 years ago.

No, there is not a recall, customer satisfaction program, extended coverage, or anything other than the TSB for the coolant intrusion issue. There is only a TSB...which gives dealers guidelines on various indicators and tests, and if under the factory warranty or extended warranty, it is covered, else it is on the owner to pay up. I think the latest TSB is 19-2346 (https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10169807-0001.pdf) the biggest item is of course the replacement long block and 13.3 to 15 hours labor.

I put one on my 8 inch SYNC 3 screen, and Iiked the feel of it better, it also was anti-glare which helped. While looking for my 2019 I did test drive a few vehicles that had weirdly scratched screens but have never had an issue with that, but the screen on my 2017 Escape was inset and not quite as out as the Edge SYNC 3 and SYNC 4(a). I usually put screen protectors on everything, mobile phones, handheld gaming devices, watches, tablets, even if the device supposedly use new generation Gorilla glass or durable screens, which the SYNC screens do not seem to be.

There is no "about" or "sorta" spec, it specifies the weight you need in the owners manual. It changed with the 2019 release and the different PTU with disconnect. You can play around with not going with specified fluids but I am pretty sure there was at least a modicum of engineering and testing to and design that makes the requirements specific. What about licensed Mercon ULV or specific weight gear lube for the PTU are trying to improve on? Lifespan of fluid? Noise? Performance? Life of transmission/PTU?

They are not the same transmissions. the 2.0 gets the 8F35, and the 2.7 gets the 8F57 (which in your 2021 is software 7 speed). 8 (speed) F (FWD) 35/57 (torque handling limit). They do both use Mercon ULV fluid. The fluid that the OP asks about has that ir meets the OE performance of Mercon ULV (and every other version of Mercon and almost all other fluids in history, maybe a red flag there, and I don't think it really says it was licensed to meet the requirements).

Since they are likely aftermarket (Ford had chrome clad covers for some years for some wheels, but not these), they likely are not as securely attached as the Ford ones (which are over un polished wheels). They are usually made from ABS which can be heated up to 325 to bend. I use a heat gun to help form some ABS 3d printed things. They also might have double sided tape? There are 2 different SEL wheels for 2016 (both of which have aftermarket available black skins) and they are readily available to just replace.

The accessory 12v power ports shut down after 75 minutes after delay power is shut off. That can be changed via ForScan to immediately shut off, never shut off, or various times, the different settings can be found in most ForScan spreadsheets for the Fusion or F150 (or edge of course). If they are plugged into the USB ports they are powered down when the delay accessory power is turned off.