dabangsta

It is "printed" on each window, on the front lower corner of the roll down windows, and front lower on the little ones as well. Mine looks like 18%.

Oops the back don't show it, just the front (which is 70%)

Nice looking vehicle for that many miles! Hopefully you can continue to knock out the issues for cheap and your labor, and find you like it enough to keep, but either way, keep the details flowing!

I junked a 2000 Grand Marquis at 330,000 miles because it just had too many little issues and it became not a pleasure to drive. I sorta regret it now as the replacements have failed to live up to expectations, and I could have tackled most of the issues in a week or so (engine still purred, transmission still was shifting fine, it was starting to guess wrong what gear it should be in).

There are 2 pumps, a low pressure one in the tank, and a high pressure one off the back of the engine. I don't have the details on getting to either one though.

Mercon LV (and ULV) are like that.

At 93k miles, how was the fluid changed? A single drain and refill? 4-5 quarts of the total (9 quarts for 2.0, 11 for 2.7/3.5), or some other method?

If it was just a single drain, it isn't going to come out that light cherry red of Mercon LV. It will still be dark. It takes 3 in a row drains and refills to get most of the fluid changed.

When the first vehicle rolled out using Mercon LV Ford released a document that states that since it is a darker dye, it will get dark very early, and color is not a good indicator of health, unless there are solids in suspension or it smells burnt.

This is the text from the SSM from 2009 when vehicles starting shipping with Mercon LV:

Quote

SPECIAL SERVICE MESSAGES
MERCON LV FLUID COLOR
VEHICLES, EQUIPPED WITH AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FACTORY FILLED WITH MERCON LV FLUID (PART # XT-10-QLV), MAY EXHIBIT DARK COLORED TRANS FLUID THAT MAY LOOK BURNT IN APPEARANCE. THIS IS A NORMAL CHARACTERISTIC OF THIS FLUID AND WILL NOT AFFECT TRANSMISSION FUNCTION OR DURABILITY. THE MERCON LV FLUID IS A DEEP RED COLOR, COMPARED TO CONVENTIONAL MERCON V BRIGHT RED FLUID, AND THE COLOR NATURALLY DARKENS AT RELATIVELY LOW MILEAGE. IN SOME CASES, THE FLUID MAY APPEAR TO HAVE A GREEN TINT DUE TO DYE USED TO CHECK FOR LEAKS AT THE ASSEMBLY PLANT. TRANS FLUID COLOR SHOULD NOT BE USED AS SOLE INDICATOR FOR TRANSMISSION REPAIRS. REFER TO THE CORRECT VEHICLE AND MODEL YEAR WORKSHOP MANUAL AND/OR MAINTENANCE GUIDE FOR DIAGNOSTICS, REPAIRS, AND/OR SCHEDULED MAINTENANCE.
EFFECTIVE DATE: 12/08/2009

18 minutes ago, Wubster100 said:

It looks like auto hold gets switched on and off through the APIM rather than a physical switch.

If it is a SYNC 3 equipped Lincoln (up to 2020) it is a button. 2021+ it is in the SYNC 4 screen config menu.

7 minutes ago, Wubster100 said:

It looks like auto hold gets switched on and off through the APIM rather than a physical switch.

Not a comically small hand on a comically large button on a comically large center console?

The 2023/2024 owners manual has details on it's use, but I have never seen an Edge with it. It isn't in the 2022 owners manual. 2017+ MKX/Nautilus have it standard or later on in higher trim levels.

I have enabled and used it in a 2020 Explorer. It is a pretty nice feature, but if you don't understand it then when you go to take off it feels like the car is broken.

Got it drained a couple of times, the fluid was dark but didn't smell burnt, and filtered it through a coffee filter and no chunks.

Getting a variety of error still, and a variety of driving issues:

• delayed shift to D, with a jerk, but can run it up through all the gears and down shift on throttle application
• eventually I appear to lose 5-8 (clutch E), it still tries, but free wheels until I slow down
• once I go forward, then reverse complains, and the shifter moves itself to Park with a shifter fault
• in Park it wouldn't rev up, I think it thought it was still in reverse

codes for fun:

• P0752 - shift solenoid A stuck on
• P270:00-2C friction element A range/performance
• same p0274:00-28 friction element E range/performance
• one for friction element F

Looks like it is going on the hook to the dealer, then sometime this decade they will do a diagnostic on it, and let me know I need a new transmission and torque converter.

There was a little more gunk around the vent than I expected for a 5 year old 90k mile vehicle, I drained 4.75 quarts, put in 5.25 and probably .25 quarts oozed out the sight hole once up to temperature. I don't think it is was or is high or low on fluid, the old fluid didn't smell burnt or have solids in it (very light swirls of floating something). I don't think one more fluid change will do anything, and no external sensors that I can do anything with related.

I fought that extension for the vent putting it back on, while I get the saying "doing the same thing again and again expecting a different outcome" I kept trying to do the the same thing (hose clamp pliers low to compress, grab with needle nose up high, try to get in place and press down before slipping out). I finally found slightly larger needle nose with good grip and popped it right on. On my 6f35 vehicles I had to take off the tire to get to the sight hole, but this one I didn't, I could turn the wheel to the passenger side and get right in there. Also neither plug (drain or sight) required more than my 1/4 drive plastic harbor freight ratchet, I tried them since I had them out already, and easy off. My other vehicles took a 3/8 drive and with all the extensions, holding the center of the ratchet, so that was nice (neither of them leaked, it wasn't low of fluid).

Thank you for those! A lot of good information that help me at least start narrowing it down, and to do the fluid change. Unfortunately the second step on most is removal, followed by overhaul.

I didn't realize that Mercon ULV is $20 a quart locally. Sure with the shipping from RockAuto it was around $10 a quart, but whoa. It is $9 at the dealer, but they don't seem to have any stock on hand.

Anyone have the details on removing the air cleaner/filter housing for a 2019 with the 2.0? I hate to be stuck on step 1, I just am not able to find the mounting points (and not prolonging the pain that is completing this task...).

Never mind, once I got the snorkle unbolted it became obvious it was just press fit into rubber donuts, and pulling up harder released it. Now to the rest of it!

2019 SEL with the 8F35, 90k miles (original fluid, flog me now). A week ago it started shuddering up to 35mph lightly, I setup an appointment to see about getting TSB 21-2081 performed (on my dime since out of warranty). I also bought fluid to change it out.

Returned from a 600 mile trip in 115+ weather, no issues on interstate or when exiting to surface streets to home. Back into driveway and push Start button and get message park not available. So it set the park brake and the shifter light was blinking in Park.

I tried moving it, and it took a second to engage forward, was able to drive it way, but a few blocks away or started doing harsh shifts, and free wheeling. So it has sat until today. Pulled codes:

p0771 - shift solenoid E performance/Stuck Off
p2704:00-6c - transmission friction element E apply time range/performance
P07e4:00-28 - unable to engage park
p0771:00-64 - shift solenoid E performance/Stuck Off
p073d:00-68 - unable to engage neutral

It will now shift to park and neutral, I haven't driven it enough after sitting to see if it is okay now.

I have 5 quarts of Mercon ULV, and I can erase the adaptive tables, but am I just pouring fluid into a done transmission?

I can only find a TSB for the 8F35 and Transit Connects and these codes, and seems specific to that vehicle, but is a rebuild/replacement of output planetary carrier and assorted parts.

Is $60 difference worth it? You can look at the rotors and see the differences, non PP is externally vented (the vents open up on the rim side of the rotor), PP is like most, vents open up behind the hat. Otherwise they are probably dimensionally the same (total height, friction surface thickness, etc) and could be interchanged. I don't think the caliper mounts are different (which could move the caliper closer or further away from the center of the car).

50 minutes ago, lildisco said:

What's an aftermarket OEM licensed product? I don't see many manufacturers endorsing another product than OEM, unless it's made by a different company, like Mobil1 & then rebranded as OEM. 

 

If you think that I'm arguing with you, I'm not. I'm genuinely curious. 

That other brand mentioned, Kendall VersaTrans LV, is an aftermarket fluid that is Ford OEM Approved (licensed), lists the license numbers and everything. 

Quote

VersaTrans LV ATF is OEM-approved for service fill in applications where the OEM specifies:

• Ford MERCON LV (License Nos. MLV140201, MLV140202, MLV140203)

https://kendallmotoroil.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/Versatrans-LV-ATF.pdf

1 hour ago, lildisco said:

It says Mercon V/LV on the jugs, but are you saying that they didn't actually do the testing to say that? 

Their product information sheet states it is not an OEM licensed product, and that no vehicle manufacturer has tested, evaluated, or endorses the product.

https://sharena21.springcm.com/Public/Document/18452/9e447451-fe75-e711-9c10-ac162d889bd3/5ca3517a-e29c-e711-9c10-ac162d889bd3

They do not have an OEM licensed product for Mercon LV (or ULV) but do for Mercon V. Plenty of companies license it, but rarely is it included with a broad "one fluid for all" cover all specs fluid.

If Valvoline won't pay for licensing or get it tested to see that it meets Mercon LV specs, I pass.

Yup, without the paddles, Sport is the only assist. My 2019 doesn't have paddle shifters either, I have bought a wheel with the shifters to swap them in, another user here posted they just installed the wheel and they worked, but it was not a 2024 like yours. 2019 paddle shifters where available with AWD, but 2024 only on ST or with tow package.

Is it a P0303 error? Do you also find it is low on coolant, need to keep adding coolant? Is it the 2.0 I4 GTDI engine or the 3.5 V6 (or the 2.7 V6 GTDI)?

1 hour ago, Shiping said:

My Car is 2016 Ford Edge SEL AWD, Mileage 80701

found coolant intrusion into cylinder , need REPLACING LONG BLOCK WITH TURBO, WATER PUMP, VACUUM PUMP, BELTS and MISC GASKETS AND FLUIDS 

get quote from dealer, about $10,000?

 

is this quote reasonable? 

 

Any help would be appreciated.

 

 

I wouldn't say it is reasonable, but it is probably close to what a dealership gets for the work. The long block is $2,600, not sure why the turbo is included, but the long block doesn't include the accessories, and I would replace the pumps, not the turbo unless something else happened to it. It shows 15 hours of labor, so $3000 if $200 an hour, so not sure where that other $4000 goes. This shows the parts required to do it, a lot of nuts and bolts and gaskets, but $4000 worth? https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10169807-0001.pdf

Is it only the Service Advancetrac warning or also Brake and/or ABS lights also on?

4 hours ago, Wildcats79 said:

I have the black 21” wheels, brushless radiator, but non painted calipers and guessing original owner that ordered didn’t specify or want but can’t understand why. 

The 21 inch gloss black wheels are a stand alone option on the 401a group ST, I think that you think you have the brushless radiator fans, but doubt that you do. Who is to say they ordered it, and it wasn't just dealer stock? Not everyone wants red painted calipers, 21 inch wheels and resulting more expensive tires, or summer only tires.

There are 4 different front rotors.

• 316mm vented FWD
• 345mm vented AWD
• 345mm vented inverted hat (ST, standard with calipers with larger pistons, not painted red)
• 345mm vented conventional hat (ST, Performance Brake Package with calipers with larger pistons, red painted)

The rear rotors are

• 316mm solid for FWD and AWD non ST
• 345mm vented for ST with standard or Performance Brake Package

ST doesn't have them standard, it needs the ST Performance Brake Package. That includes the red painted calipers, different rotors and brake pads (and 21 inch gloss black painted wheels, brushless radiator fan, summer only tires, and vented brake backers.

2020 should have had a paper owners manual. When they added it to the infotainment (2021 and SYNC 4a), I think some time 2021 to 2024 no more paper owners manual.

While it would be easier with a wiring diagram of the fusebox to determine what is switched and what is constant, since the HK4 install kit has fuse taps, I would go for circuits like the radio (fuse 33) that is likely constant power (it uses logic to actually turn on and off, if you can turn it on without being in accessory/running), and 36 or 37 for the switched. Should use the Micro2 tabs in the kit. Make sure you put them pointing the right was so that the circuit is actually fused and not bypassing the fuse for the added circuit! Sometimes you pick which fuse to use by where it is and also provides the type of power you need (switched or constant).

I only needed switched, so I will tap into the connector going to the rear view mirror (your SEL also has this, so it has a switched power going to it).

Clickable links to pages from the Table of Contents, Index, and within the content (This is where you check the coolant, go to page 98 for specifications), and searchable? Indispensable for those that want to find it, know it, or understand it. Many people don't want to know, don't care, or will just ask.

I drove mine home, had an understanding of 90% of it already (it is a car, it is a Ford, it has SYNC 3.0, etc) but a little reading on Adaptive Cruise, remote start settings, where the emergency key slot is, I made sure I understand all that before trying it out or driving much. A couple hours well spent.