dabangsta

Can't swipe down in the map. It either scrolls the map, or does nothing. From the vehicle view it does update it, but that means leaving the map, doing that, then going back to the map.

A recent update brought it back! The reload circle arrow in the upper right can be used (only once every 30 seconds) to update the current location while it is being driven. I don't know when or what version of FordPass on Android got it, I pretty much gave up on it, but my wife got a flat tire (FordPass let me know) so I checked the location since it said it was running and not parked, and it's current location wasn't where it was parked last, and it updated to a closer location once I used the reload button.

I generally reset the trip each way, but decided to get a round trip view, since there are a variety of mountains on this trip and end at different elevations. Observations... I was on track to equal the EPA highway rating (even though that really isn't interstate driving if you look at the cycle) of 29mpg until: 10 minutes of 30-40 sustained, 60+ gusts of wind (and sand storm) dropped the average from 28.5 to 28 20(ish) seconds of WOT up a hill to get out of a bad situation developing (2 semis that couldn't maintain their lanes) dropped it from 28 to 27 This trip starts at 2200 ft elevation, tops out at around 5000 ft, and ends at 3900 ft The average speed of 77 mph is on par with what I usually average on this trip, as it is 98% interstate, 2 times 75>65 in city, and about 10 miles of highway at 65>55 I can knock 1 mpg off my average over 300 miles simply being aggressive getting on the interstate on a short on ramp (but I won't try merging at 35 mph either) Overall not bad for fuel mileage, but it is very easy to blow it up, winds really affect it, as does accelerating to pass people, especially over hills. Adaptive Cruise and being alert but not overdoing it goes a long ways. I would love to say I could set the cruise at 75 and just do that, but with the hills, semis, wrecks towing wrecks (people that buy cheap cars and drag them to Mexico/Guatemala), 75 mph is just...hard to maintain without speeding up and slowing down. I could easily get 30/31 mpg on this drive in my 2017 Escape with the 1.5. But I could also get really terrible mileage with wind, which is a big issue on this drive. I would get 25 mpg in my 2000 Grand Marquis (which I miss).

What gear oil? PTU? Rear diff? Or are you talking about the transmission? Any of them benefit from shorter change intervals.

One is Lane Keeping, that can be enabled and used without the Adaptive Cruise Control being used. It will alert you of leaving your lane (shake wheel, red section in dash display), and very lightly attempt to correct it with a little torque on the wheel. That is enabled or disabled by the button on the end of the stalk (not wiper, turn signal). The other is Lane Centering. It will provide enough torque to keep your vehicle in the lane, even in turns. It is only on with Adaptive Cruise Control, and is controlled by the button in the cruise control section that has a steering wheel on it. I read the owners manual about all the new stuff I had never had, and even if I don't use it, get familiar with it. I like Lane Centering, it really makes long trips less stressful. It doesn't steer for itself, I am still steering, but it lets me relax a bit.

Your battery is in okay shape. Nothing about any of those numbers indicate a current issue, or point to its demise anytime soon. I don't think any of your current issues are caused by the battery. I ran my 2017 Escape down to 225 CCA for 6+ months, but it was annoying, and not worth it.

Generally when you take in a battery to be tested, they: usually charge it (you only gives a full good result starting as charged as it can get) use a tester that tests and prints out: SoH (State of Health) (??generally CCA compared to rated CCA??) CCA (how many amps it can provide for 30 seconds at 0 degrees without dipping below 7v) Rated CCA (how many CCA is should be brand new) SoC (State of Charge) (current voltage vs rated voltage percentage, can be low if not charged, but only real handy if charged fully before test) Internal Resistance (can show an internal issue, like a dead or shorted cell) voltage (not as handy as other numbers) Often times shortcuts are taken, or the test isn't good enough to show the actual issue. Most places will give you the results (instead of just saying "it good"). They are more likely to do a full correct test if you are attempting to warranty the battery at the place it was bought from.

I am confused. Are there drivability concerns, or are you looking at the Intelligent AWD Information display, or something else, like the Lane Keeping and it is visually alerting you of crossing a line? I haven't seen a 2019 AWD display, and if it accounts for the new to 2019 disconnect or not. I have only seen it show front and rear bias, not side to side, which would be ESC but usually not in minor normal driving.

So when you take off from a stop to try to merge into traffic, the Traction Control light blinks on the dash and you are limited in power? When it happens when you are already moving does it make your brake pedal pulse or actually go down? Traction control, stability control, and roll control are pretty hard to engage, you really have to try, or be in very slippery conditions. Do you also get the power train/wrench/abs light on? It sounds more like a powertrain fault that needs diagnosed.

What year and model? Was it a solid hooooooooooooooooooooooonk (like button stuck) or honk-honk-honk-honk (like an alarm/indicator)? Maybe the fuse eventually blew, or the horn, from being on that long. My 2019 had a single horn, and a horn is part of driving where I live, and holding it for about 4 seconds (to let someone know they were changing lanes right into the side me) actually made the horn stop working (I checked the fuse, it was fine).

Someone else posted this recently, so I went and checked mine, and a couple of times I have had the same issue, only drivers door proximity works (I can only lock/unlock using the drivers door touch points). I went through the settings, thinking that it was related to the "Switch Inhibit" but I think that is only interior buttons. I went to the settings, and then tried, and all doors worked. It has happened a couple of times, because I more commonly unlock from the drivers rear door because I put stuff in there before getting in the drivers door. What alerts do you get from the proximity sensors? What does this mean? The Perimeter alarm is door sensors (a door, lift gate, hood) opened without the vehicle being unlocked. I don't think any Edge gets a sensor alarm (movement, glass breaking) like the MKX/Nautilus.

Face up in the cubby to wirelessly charge, or face down because the wireless charger makes your phone overheat. With SYNC 4, there is nothing that can be done on the phone that should be done on the phone while driving. Anything else is for when stopped, and reaching into that cubby is pretty good. Pocket is also a handy place. I don't have Wireless Android Auto in mine, so it has to be plugged in, for around town trips I would love wireless AA and just leave it in my pocket. I might try a current generation dongle for AA/CarPlay.

Is it push button start, or key start (not all Limited have Intelligent Access with push button start)? If the key fully turns in the cylinder enough to lock or unlock it, and it isn't, then it seems like the key cylinder linkage isn't hooked up. I suppose I would first try lubing up the key cylinder and latch with a spray (even WD-40 would help short term and clean it up). Even with vehicles I rarely, if ever open using the key, I still do it once a month (less with my Edge since it has a cover over it that is prone to breaking eventually, but is more protected), and once it starts getting rough I clean them up.

The Edge got a new engine configuration with a new block in MY 2019 (other vehicles got a revised block mid year 2019). The new 2.0 it got has things like an EGR cooler (which was problematic first couple of years, with a leak and TSB), and the block no longer has slits to the head, as you mention, but a round port.

The AC plug in has been handy a couple of times, but it is so limited. It is prone to kicking things plugged in (I have a very short 90 degree plug to move wall warts away so they don't get kicked). My 2019 has a 12v power port there, not the type c ports, but plenty of type c and type a adapters that sit flush in there.

It is standard on your 2023 Titanium, so it has it. Do you have the factory optional towing package or a dealer or aftermarket tow hitch installed? Some people disconnect the sensors because they don't like it.

According to the 2024 order guide: SE/SEL/Titanium get "2 way" up and down only adjustable head restraints ST-Line and ST get "4 way" up and down and forward and back adjustable head restraints. 2020 was the last year for seemingly all series to have 4 way adjustable head restraints. 2021 ST-Line, Titanium, and ST had 4 way (SE and SEL had 2 way) 2022-2024 ST-Line and ST get 4 way, (SE, SEL, Titanium had 2 way)

They were put on by the dealership before I bought it. They are not great tires but I guess they aren't bad either. I won't be replacing them with the same tires. They are pretty greasy in the heat and not great in standing water. They have 42,000 miles on them and probably be done in another 10k miles. So no matter that the share the name with the vehicle, it isn't enough to get them!

Just a 100 day update (only at 101,500 miles, only 5k miles on new brakes, it was down for the transmission for too long). Got the $65 rebate check ($130 since I did 2 kits), with a check that is good until 4/11/2025 (so less than a month, hah, I digitally deposited it already). My normal driving environment is pretty flat, but so far no issues in normal driving (even near emergency stops), using Adaptive Cruise with Stop and Go also. Maybe it will creep once more when the car in front is stopped, but I think it always did this, making me wonder if it would stop creeping. Went to the mountains for vacation. Not sure if it is the new pads all around, the new rotors, or the larger rotors, but I was pretty aggressive in my use of them coming down passes, and no sign of chatter from them over heating. Last time I did this with the 80-90k brakes they chattered until cooled off every time Adaptive Cruise would apply the whoa, or I would aggressively due to traffic. I had to both use sport mode, and 4 bars for adaptive cruise to stop it from overheating them frequently. The rotors, with the shiny coating, look great. the OEM ones had a dull grey coating that still looked okay, stuff doesn't really rust where I live, rotors do but not heavily. I will likely paint them red next time it isn't in use for a day, which is hard to come by.

My 2019 did that when I put in some very cheap straight from China LED turn signal bulbs in the front. They supposedly were "canbus ready" but at $3 for the pair too good to be true. I couldn't stand the out of sequence fast blink inside. On my 2019 those are basically the only incandescent bulb besides the license plate light, but your 2014 mostly has incandescent bulbs. Are any of them replaced with LEDs?

Ford has had different definitions of excessive oil consumption over the years. For my 2000 Grand Marquis with the 4.6 they considered 1 quart every 1000 miles to be okay (it isn't). Not until I got to the 275,000 mile range would it use a quart every 3,000 miles (I considered this okay given the miles, I would add 1/2 a quart at 3,000 and change it at 5,000). For the 2.7 they consider 1 quart every 3,000 miles to be normal, any more is excessive (I would find 1 qt/3000 miles to be excessive). Even with my turbo 1.5 and 2.0 engines, up to 150,000 miles, I don't see even 1/4 a quart in 7,000 miles consumption. I think my 3.5 in my 2012 Fusion, at 148,000 miles is finally using enough to detect it on the dipstick, but not enough to need to add between the 7500-10,000 change interval. On the 3.5 I check the oil more regularly for coolant from the water pump, but at 100,000 miles on my Edge (2019 2.0) I am checking it every couple of tanks of fuel.

Auto hold - When enabled (in a supported vehicle...) and you come to a complete stop, you can then let your foot off the brake, and the vehicle remains stopped until you give it gas. hill start assist - If the vehicle senses you are on an incline, when you release the brake pedal it holds the vehicle for a few seconds or until you give it gas, allowing you time to get your foot from from the brake to the gas. Stop and Go Adaptive Cruise - if stopped behind another vehicle, while brake is pressed, pressing RES + will put it in stop mode. You can release the brake and it will stay until you press RES+ or give it gas (and the vehicle in front you is moving), then it will go on its own with the space you set from the car in front of you, up to the speed you have set.

My 2017 Escape came with Global Up enabled, but in one of the SSM, CSP, TSB, or recall issues unrelated to it disabled it. I had gotten used to it, as my older 2012 Fusion only had down, and with out fail I would have to run out and put them up and close the sun roof, but my 2015 Fusion I could do it from the remote, and 2017 to begin with I could also.

What part of the issue? The supposed low oil pressure shutting off the car (it doesn't) The car shutting off? The car hard to start after fueling it? The 2 different fault codes? The remaining issue the OP posted was likely the purge valve.

2021 they deleted the chrome tip exhaust for SE and SEL, so the tailpipes are expected. However that valance/trim shouldn't have the exhaust cut outs, it should be straight across the bottom. None of the media site or brochures show anything but Titanium or ST, so no good Ford official views of the SE/SEL. It likely has been replaced for some reason, could be just it was damaged, or there was more extensive work done. This is what it should look like: