dadrett

Messed up again!!

Plain ole' '08 Edge right side taillight is $193.42 MSRP, $127.66 U'r price at Tasca Parts in Rhode Island and $193.42 MSRP, U'r price $143.90 at Team Ford Parts Online in Las Vegas. They are cheapest I've found & Tasca seems to always beat Team by 10+%. MSRP prices are same for both & much better than over the counter at U'r dealer. Some examples: Puddle Lamp - - - - - - - - - - - - - MSRP Tasca & Team: - - $39.58, U'r price Tasca - - $26.13, Team - - $29.45 High Mount LED Brake Light - MSRP Tasca & Team: - - $49.97, U'r price Tasca - - $30.86, Team - - $37.18 (strangely '07 with incandescents is only pennies cheaper) 18" Painted Wheel - - - - - - - - - MSRP Tasca & Team: - $323.28, U'r price Tasca - $213.37, Team - $240.52 PS: Creating table above was a . The post software ignores tabs & eats U'r spaces.

Still don't know how to delete a post. Heck as long as it's my post I'll try to think of something to do with it.

Sounds as though U trimmed only ear at top, bulb pushed in easily & U were able to twist it into place. Excellent. I wasn't so lucky. I did NOT sand the hole in the reflector. Just as U prefer, I trimmed away part of bulb that wouldn't clear the opening. But it was more than sanding. I used bur shown below. The wiring appears to be same gage for both high & low beams. I was a little concerned with increased heat (about 18% more with 65 watt bulb), but I e-mailed Daniel Stern & he says it's not a problem (the shield is metallic unlike most of the rest of the headlight) and I'm sure Stern wouldn't put his stamp of approval on this swap if there was a problem with gage of wire. ^_^ (1) 9011 (HIR-1) notice chamfer just below metal flange, (2) same bur (just coincidence) as in post #66, but this time I use flutes on side, (3) bulb w/diameter reduced to fit into hole in reflector, (4) 2nd variation, cut with bur pointed at center of bulb A different approach: Around time I was "grinding" away, I e-mailed Stern: “Daniel, My original plan for seating the 9011 into reflector involved the three screws that hold round black piece that is headlight "tab ring." I think Ford doesn't want me messin' w/them because they're a pretty small security torx. So I'm guessing that backing out the screws to allow the ring to come away to allow the bulb tabs to slid behind the "ring tabs" is out.” His reply: “But that's exactly what to do in the case you describe. Happens occasionally on some Range Rovers, too.” So, it turns out that screws in question are T15 torz, but U can’t tell size by using regular torz because they don’t have “security hole.” Harbor Freight had a 100-piece security bit set on sale for $4.99. Heck, U can’t buy a set of jewelers’ screwdrivers for that. Just remember, it’s HF, but as often as U’d use them, U’d be foolish to buy better quality. HF is great, but U have to know what U’r buying :yup: & how their stuff will hold up to U’r usage.

Hey Jaak, I take it U mean to remove shorter tab/key at top of socket between contacts. That was/is my plan. Will cut away that extra tab with rotary tool. (1) H11 w/key at bottom, (2) H9 w/two keys, (3) Bur (notice 8 cutting edges at end), (4) H9 w/upper key removed Another thing. There's a shield in front of the bulb. I checked w/magnet & it's not steel. I'm hoping it's aluminum & not plastic. Remember we're generating an 18.2% increase in wattage & I'm guessing that big an increase in heat. :unsure: If I understand correctly U've had U'rs installed a year w/no problems.

Has anyone had occasion to remove headlight from Edge? If so, is it a piece of cake as on the F-150 (quick look doesn't seem to be the case :angry:) or is it something U do only if U must? :unsure:

Hey Kan (Kana?), Am in process of installing 9011s (HIR-1) high beams and H9s low beams. As sometimes happens, things are not as simple as U first hear. On 9011s did U experience so tight a fit that bulb wouldn't seat deep enuf to twist into place? I e-mailed Daniel Stern and he replied, "Casting flash on the inner diameter of the bulb hole. Wrap a piece of 100-grit sandpaper around your index finger, wet it, and go round and round and round and round with it in the high beam bulb hole to knock down the casting ridge. Use a piece of paper towel to wipe away the (wetted) dust, and the bulb should go right in." Did U do this? I'd prefer to remove headlight & point it to ceiling while I sand, but it looks as if headlight removal is not as simple as on F-150. :unsure: I think I'll start a thread "Headlight Removal?"

Some starter info is available in the thread "Zymol," but if U want to know more that U ever thought possible :blink: about shinin' U'r ride, use this link. http://www.f150online.com/forums/care-detailing-22/. I found it in my "F150online" forum. I've been messin' w/cars since before I had a drivers' license. (First car owned - year old 1960 Chevy Corvair Monza Coupe in Roman Red w/General Dual-90 whitewalls. Ask U'r Granddad, he'll know) Why haven't I heard of some of this stuff? Claying sounds like a contraction for "playing w/clay." Is a clay bar where U belly-up to buy clay?

FWIW, U can register w/NAVTEQ & be notified of updates & I imagine all sorts of other pesterings. U can also report changes needed on maps - incorrect, missing, or should be deleted POIs, route changes, etc. Kinda nice - 'course it takes a while to show up on new DVD. Maybe if everyone registered w/them, they might think they have a bunch of eager "fish" out there.

Thanks for offer. Most likely go for 7P at minimum. Be nice to know when 8P's expected to be released. U'r buried in here on pg 2 of this thread. Why not start new thread (that sorta brings U to the surface) & offer U'r 6P. If U price it right, U may have a taker.

How much mo cheaper? $84.00 not too bad; Navteq wants $149, plus $9.95 s&h, plus $13.91 CA tax. Now we're talking $173. Better deal from TomTom - U could download latest North America last summer for $49.95. For about $95 U can get upgrade for each of next 4 quarters. Four times a year might be overkill, but there's no guarantee they'll run their special every summer. Had TomTom before we bought Edge. Turns out it's handy to use both. :D TomTom has useful feature that allows U to make real time changes to the maps and POIs on U’r device. Next time U connect to their site for update, U’r changes get uploaded. U can choose if U want to accept all changes from others or only those verified by TomTom.

eBay seller has 2 copies of 7P for $83.88 apiece + $9.99 s&h.

"...last, can anyone confirm the screw size of that antenna into the base (5mm/10-32 or 6mm)?" Lex, funny U should ask. Here's U'r answer one year (& I mean one year) later. Thread is metric 5-.8. Just did a short (3 1/2") homemade retro "Rubber Ducky." Some might call me cheap; I prefer frugal. Besides, when U'r retired, U have time to tinker. I stumbled onto U'r post while Googling "ford antenna thread size." My F-150 has a proprietary (fancy word that means different than the way everyone else does it) thread that I'm trying to run down. Small world. Just went back thru this thread & realized that when Ua'll remove mast U'r stud remains in base, whereas mine remains in mast. That could change thread size we're dealing with. I've noticed antennas often come with several studs to accommodate different car brands. One end of each stud screws into mast leaving a different thread size on other end to screw into mount/base on car.

True enough & I think we all :party2: should thank Lex & lexington1 for leading the way. As I said, some is old, some new. Lex cited $50-60 each for puddle lamps. My dealer wanted $67.69. Now we know they're available for $36.13 (S&H inc.) ($62.26/pr, S&H inc.) There's a part number for those interested. New thread offers a recognizable name for topic so U don't have to search around. Best of all there are details that may give someone that little nudge :poke: to give it a try.

Bits of this are scattered about elsewhere, but here’s some new too. For those wanting to install LEDs in U’r puddle lamps, but are reluctant to try :unsure: because of cost to replace damaged original, here's good news. Least expensive I’ve found is from Tasca Ford in Cranston, RI. (http://www.tascafordparts.com//index.do) Got dealer’s name & part number (3F1Z-13B375-AA) on an F-150 forum. Apparently this is an F-150 number, but I called Tasca & part is same for Edge. Cost $26.13 + $10.00 S&H. Now U can cut one apart :yup: knowing it can be replaced somewhat reasonably. The F-150 poster talked about using razor saw to separate lens from body. I think U have better control than with a rotary tool. I used an Exacto razor saw with .008 in. blade. Put lamp in vise with lens against one jaw. Cushion jaws with tape, close on lamp gingerly & rotate unit as U cut. Sawing with U’r hand on back of blade with saw turned backward & pulling toward U gives better control. (Japanese saws have teeth pointing backwards & cut on the backstroke. If U’ve never used such a saw, try it if U have a chance). Be patient. The cut will be about 1/16” deep & when U think cut is complete, gently worry the two pieces apart by prying with small screwdriver. While prying, if U come to a spot where U don’t see any movement U probably need to cut some more in that area. U won’t be able to cut at big black tab, but if U’r gentle, lens will crack :blink: (yes, I said crack) away from body. A word of caution. The second one goes so much faster (10 mins) than first (50 mins) that U need to check frequently to see if U’r cut is deep enough without going so deep that U cut into lip on clear lens. Reflector removal depends on U’r LED bulb. Bulb (from eBay seller EnKMall) is 8.15 mm x 31 mm. Cost $7.98/pr., free S&H. Even though only 4 LEDs, it's quite good, but hard to tell by pic. I'm guessing quality & intensity of color a little strange due to ambient light. Maybe should try in a very dark parking lot.

I’ve read in several threads that people are looking for headlights and fog lamps that are more white/less yellow. To go along with U’r HID conversions or whiter halogen capsules why not complete the look (come on, U know it’s about the look) and get rid of those orange parking lights. How about an LED bulb that’s white when it’s a parking/running light but is amber when it’s a turn signal? Go to http://autolumination.com/ and find the “Switchback.” It’s in the “**3157 led -Tail Brake, Turn Signal & Back-up Bulbs” section. It’s down pretty far in the listing. Don’t give up till U find it. I know what U’ve just read sounds like an advertisement, but I dislike amber parking lights and really dislike amber rear turn lights. I’ve changed many cars I’ve owned. All but one were bulb changes (thank goodness for clear lenses.) On ‘85 Escort parking/turn units and tail/turn units were replaced with Mercury Lynx pieces. Cost about $240 IIRC, and those were 1985 dollars (.....and I used to walk to school up hill both ways in the snow. :yup: )

This post also shows up in Body, Chassis & Exterior> New light bulb installed on my EDGE!, Low beam and fog light. This info seems pretty important and I think it may receive more attention if it’s in a thread of its own. Anyone wanting to change high beam, low beam, fogs should read Jaak in TO posts #47 & 60 and Kanatronic posts #53 & 59 in the above cited thread. Also go to Daniel Stern’s site http://www.danielsternlighting.com/ and read what he has to say about colored bulbs, over wattage bulbs, HID and various other aspects of automotive lighting. This guy seems to be about educating his customers and doing the right thing by them not just making a sale. I e-mailed him for information about using H9s in place of H11s for low beam & 9011 (HIR-1) for high beams and his reply mirrored Jaak in TO’s post #4 in Oakville Employees Forum under Sylvania Silverstar Lamps. Jaak actually quotes Stern who recommends Candlepower Inc. http://store.candlepower.com/9011.html in Rockville, MD as source for 9011s. Mr. Stern does not sell 9011s. In his reply to me it sounded as thought he was also recommending Candlepower for H9s even though he sells them himself. So I e-mailed him back and I quote, ”Thank you for your fast response. I appreciate all the information. It sounds as though you're telling my to buy the H9 bulbs from Candlepower rather than you. I've just ordered two 9011 bulbs from them, but I'd be more than happy to order two H9s from you. I'll wait for your response”. He replied “Hi, DR. Yep, please go ahead and order the bulbs via Candlepower site. Best DS”. At first I was impressed because it’s not often that a vendor recommends a competitor. Looking further into the 9011 bulb I found a comment that seems to indicate that Mr. Stern has some affiliation with Candlepower. I don’t think this in any way diminishes what he’s trying to do to educate car enthusiasts. If U appreciate how new technology improves performance U should know about the 9011 bulb which was developed by GE. “It was GE’s goal to create a bulb that produced 75% of the light output of HID headlights at 25% of the cost.” To further peak U’r interest here’s another quote from the site - “A few cars have these bulbs as original equipment, often in tandem with Xenon lights. These cars include Dodge Viper, BMW Z8, Infiniti I30, Chevy Avalanche & new Nissan Maximas. The bulbs also can fit many other makes and models worldwide; if your car takes 9005/9006 bulbs.” Find more at http://hirheadlights.com/. There’s additional interesting info about auto lighting at http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=954736. The poster Drew Brashler appears to also be a fan of Daniel Stern.

Anyone wanting to change high beam, low beam, fogs should read Jaak in TO posts #47 & 60 and Kanatronic posts #53 & 59 above in this thread. Also go to Daniel Stern’s site http://www.danielsternlighting.com/ and read what he has to say about colored bulbs, over wattage bulbs, HID and various other aspects of automotive lighting. This guy seems to be about educating his customers and doing the right thing by them not just making a sale. I e-mailed him for information about using H9s in place of H11s for low beam & 9011 (HIR1) for high beams and his reply mirrored Jaak in TO’s post #4 in Oakville Employees Forum under Sylvania Silverstar Lamps. Jaak actually quotes Stern who recommends Candlepower Inc. http://store.candlepower.com/9011.html in Rockville, MD as source for 9011s. As far as I can tell Mr. Stern does not sell 9011s. In his reply to me it sounded as thought he was also recommending Candlepower for H9s even though he sells them himself. So I e-mailed him back and I quote, ”Thank you for your fast response. I appreciate all the information. It sounds as though you're telling my to buy the H9 bulbs from Candlepower rather than you. I've just ordered two 9011 bulbs from them, but I'd be more than happy to order two H9s from you. I'll wait for your response”. He replied “Hi, DR. Yep, please go ahead and order the bulbs via Candlepower site. Best DS”. At first I was impressed because it’s not often that a vendor recommends a competitor. Looking further into the 9011 bulb I found a comment that seems to indicate that Mr. Stern has some affiliation with Candlepower. I don’t think this in any way diminishes what he’s trying to do to educate car enthusiasts. If U appreciate how new technology improves performance U should know about the 9011 bulb which was developed by GE. "It was GE’s goal to create a bulb that produced 75% of the light output of HID headlights at 25% of the cost." To further peak U’r interest here’s another quote from the site - “A few cars have these bulbs as original equipment, often in tandem with Xenon lights. These cars include Dodge Viper, BMW Z8, Infiniti I30, Chevy Avalanche & new Nissan Maximas. The bulbs also can fit many other makes and models worldwide; if your car takes 9005/9006 bulbs.” Find more at http://hirheadlights.com/. There’s additional interesting info about auto lighting at http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=954736. The poster Drew Brashler appears to also be a fan of Daniel Stern.

For BlazedUp & DJ Nap Any specifics on which Mequiar's & Mothers' products U use?

I used F21 by Turtle Wax before discovering Zymol. Though hard to believe, I've never washed any of the vehicles I've owned since 1993: '93 Super Coupe (white), '98 F-150 (dark Canyon red), '98 Taurus (silver) , '05 F-150 (silver), '05 Taurus (silver), '07 Edge (that fiery orange :extinguish: :yup: color). I live in San Francisco Bay Area & weather is pretty benign. Dirt on top of wax gets waxed off & new wax added. In between waxings I use damp wash cloth & dry with another. I can do this 2-4 times between waxings. I use Meguiar's Professional Vinyl & Rubber Cleaner/Conditioner #40 on tires & black trim. I use this on tires, black trim & vinyl bed cover on '05 F-150. All my vehicles have been/are under cover at night.

Are U also using H9 for fog lamps? 65W is 18% increase over 55W. 2100 lumen is 55% increase over 1350. Candlepower spec for H9 is 167, for H11 is 107. 167 is 56% increase over 107. I'm thinking about increased heat generated by H9 bulb. A 56% increase in lumens/candlepower is substantial. However, we look at wattage for heat & 18% doesn't worry me as much. Can anyone say from experience that there is no danger using H9 in place of H11? 3/23/09 - I have since been to Daniel Stern's site & he says not :stop: to use H9s in any foglamp. Says U can use Osram Night Breaker H11. http://store.candlepower.com/bconibr90ulh5.html

This may seem redundant but here’s more. Drill out rivet “head” with ½” drill. The bit cuts away aluminum without enlarging hole in bumper & inside part of rivet falls into bumper. You’re left with ¼” holes that can be plugged or, if U’ve got the budget to do it right, by filling & painting. I used a ¼” black nylon plug [servalite #1180-B] with a 5/16” head. I’m guessing this plug is smaller that those mentioned above. I could not find this plug on the Internet, but if U Goggle "nylon hole plug" one site will be HarmonCorp. They call it a dome plug. I used black with a sort of pebbly surface (matte-finish.) Use as is or paint with U'r body color touch-up. Because some plastics don’t take paint well it’s probably best to rough up surface with sandpaper to give the paint some purchase. Even though sanded, U should also clean surface with acetone or lacquer thinner due to oily film left after molding. 3/22/09: Just stumbled onto these today at Lowe’s - their #139449 (Hillman #881275) for 1/4" black dome plugs.

Partial quote from BLACK ICE Most of this is available elsewhere in the forum, but it fits here as well. I’ve zeroed in on bulbs because I’m in process of converting to LEDs. I'm sure many of U have found there are discrepancies between owner’s manual, Sylvania and the real world. What follows is for ’07 Edge. 1. Sylvania lists high mount brake light as LED, which is true for ‘08 & ’09. The ’07 owner’s manual says 5 #W5W (Sylvania #2825) which I found to be the case. 2. OM calls for C5W (which is correct) for license light & OM (pg 82) shows procedure to change this bulb. However, bulb illustrated is a festoon shape. Sylvania #6418 is a festoon. (This appears to be corrected in 3rd printing of '07 OM.) 3. Courtesy (cargo?) light is 578 (not 2825). This 578 bulb is also used in 2nd row dome and reading lights. These are 10 X 42 mm festoons. 4. Sylvania calls the map light (front seat) 3886X. A search on the internet shows this to be an “old style” miniature with a BA9S bayonet base. OM calls for 12V6W which is its voltage & wattage. That would be a .5 amp bulb. Use #194 or C5W or W5W if U want a little brighter light. #194 is .27amps/2 candle power, C5W is.37amps/3.6 cp, W5W is.37amps/4 cp. Don’t know why amperage is same but cp is different. If U want more on voltage, amperage, wattage & candle power go to: http://www.gelighting.com/na/business_ligh...index_specs.pdf This one is more specific to headlight & fog lamp capsules: http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bu...bulb_types.html PS: Pulling out 194 bulbs is easier when wearing nitrile (and I suppose latex) gloves. They get U some traction.

The OM states ".....The "comfort" position helps to alleviate rumbling wind noise which may happen in the vehicle with the roof fully opened." Fully open for me is 22 1/2" inches. Sixteen isn't that far from fully open & at highway speed allows "rumbling" wind noise & turbulence (if I had any hair left it would screw my do :hysterical2:). Is it possible that these control modules (if that's what they are) can get flaky :wacko: & lose their settings?

When U touch & release open button on moon roof, it opens to what OM refers to as “comfort” position which I recall to be 6-8”. Push/release again to fully open. From open position, a push/release of close button moves roof forward to “Express close” position, again 6-8". To fully close, push & hold button. I recall all this from when weather was warmer. Currently my “comfort” position is 16”. My "Express close" position is 7". Ford service writer tells me they tried two Edges on lot & they both work like mine. He also contacted Ford & was told that mine is working correctly. He’s not quite ready to believe this because he trusts what I tell him. (Is that refreshing or what!? ) I told him I would check with other owners to see what they experience. In thread "Edge Vista Roof Problems," member button's post #7 mentions having his re-initialized. I'm guessing there's a control module that can be flashed to reprogram it. U’r replies will confirm or deny my recollection. If I’m correct I’ll visit dealer again with U'r input. If not I'll call & tell him what I've found. Thanks in advance.