dadrett

Reading the above seems Ford made a change 1-16-09. Good luck on your quest.

Long time no post. Sorry Torquerules, but this is most likely too late to help you. This is my first post on this thread since December 2010. I've replaced my 2007 Edge with a 2017 Toyota RAV4 Limited Hybrid. Reason? Ford didn't/doesn't built Edge hybrids. Escape seemed a little too small. Seems there was a rumor that Ford was working on a hydrogen fuel cell motor using the Edge platform. This was some time ago and haven't hear anything further. Reason for this post: sold Edge Sept. 2017 with 66k+ miles and still have air dam in garage attic. Also have LED high-mount (3rd) brake light, Dash-Mat, 4 tannish color dash vents (replaced by black) (if I can find them). Probably some more I've forgotten about. Maybe I should start new "flea market" thread. Do any of the first adopters still have their 2007 Edges?

Look @ first pic in Post #1

No, the bulb has only the four LEDs U see. Surprisingly, the light output is quite good. It seems that enkmall (eBay) still sells these @ $6.38/pr. free S&H.

I agree with ventilation short comings pointed out above, but my main concern with original design is glare that occurs when sun is "just right to be wrong" as pics show. It's hard to believe someone on Edge design team didn't catch this. I like these vents from the SE (least expensive model) better than the "bright" ones from the pricier trim lines. Dash has a subdued classy appearance. I paid $183 including tax @ dealer, but they're available @ Tasca Ford for about $150 including S&H. Part #s: 9T4Z-19893-AA: RH Inner 9T4Z-19893-AB: LH Inner 9T4Z-19893-AC: LH Outer 9T4Z-19893-AD: RH Outer PS: 2/10/2019 - Another consideration to change to black was because they looked much better because the dash was black.? Wish I'd sent pic of original tan vents.

Just follow the instructions in post #1.

These bulbs are white, but I can't say that they're hyper or super white. Keep in mind I did this two years ago. I went to eBay & searched for LED lights, found that enkmall is still in business but it looks as though his product line has changed. Where ever U buy make sure U get 31 mm length.

Since I added 12-22-09 comment to post #1 above, I have taken some more trips. Two back to back at 110 miles each & two of 300+ miles. I have not encountered any problems yet. One reason I don’t like appearance of air dam is it’s not straight across the bottom. It curves up in the middle. The one on the 2010 (& maybe also 2009) is straight across at the bottom. If I were to replace, I’d use newer straight bottom version (provided bolt hole placement is same.)

Indeed it is. :yup: If U want a chuckle go to thread in this forum called “Finger Prints on GPS Display>Does U’r Nav Screen Look Like a Crime Scene?” to :read: posts about popsicle stick stylus.

I’m guessing U’r referring to the gray “rug.” It’s a “DashMat” dash cover & one reason I use it is to cut down on glare. I have posts in this forum in a thread called “DashMat Brand Dash Cover.” :read: ing the posts in that thread will tell U more than U probably want to know about dash covers.

Cheers Lex, Think stylus & it comes across a little classier. :yup:

Inexpensive visor for nav/radio can be made from aluminum roof flashing. If U have access to a bar folder or small box & pan brake, U can add seams to leading edges for rigidity & safety. Small diameter rubber or plastic tubing can cover sharp edges for safety.

Can anyone confirm functionality of short 1-3/4”- 2-1/4” “air dam” attached to bottom of black portion of front bumper? It seems to be a curb catcher/driveway dragger. An air dam can serve to create a low-pressure area below car to aid cooling, but this one may just be a styling feature. Or maybe it’s used to strengthen bottom edge of bumper. I like the look with it removed, but I don't want to interfere with cooling or other important purpose. (1) Bumper grill & air dam in place. (2) Charcoal window screen to keep bugs out of radiator & black pet screen to help protect trans. cooler. (3) F-150 bug collection after 700 mile trip. 12-22-09 - Have recently completed two 300+ mile trips @ interstate speeds (65-80 mph) & nothing blew up, so unless someone chimes in with advice to the contrary, I'll take it that I'm OK with air dam removal.

For U that remember Orion’s post #111, pg 6, this thread, about how the right license light points to right and “…looks like CRAP!!,” the solution I suggested in post #115 works. Start with post #111 & :read: from there. U’ve probably noticed that we get an e-mail notice only when post is first made to thread we’ve “subscribed” to, but not when edits have been made. Purpose of this post is to generate an e-mail notice to U subscribers.

Hi Yank, Yes, resistor is necessary to drop voltage. I think heat insignificant in area under console cover. LEDs, by design, are pretty intense. My blue, while fairly bright, is not distracting. U could use a Radio Shack unit as described in post #7 above if any of those colors works for U. They have a nice soft glow. Home brew cigarette lighter cup holder light for '05 F-150 using Radio Shack amber. I used parts similar to these: Wal-Mart has better cigarette lighter plug with wires already attached. IIRC, about $2.00.

Had a PM from a member wanting to know where I got parts for cup holder illumination. He was having trouble finding all parts in one place. I think others might benefit from my reply to him: Hi ........., I happen to be lucky enough to have a little "hole-in-wall" electronics shop near me that seems to have just the stuff I need from time to time. :yup: If U'd be happy with red, green or amber, I've got an alternative suggestion. Radio Shack has LED lights that have resistor built in. U'r limited for colors but good news is no soldering fine wires. IIRC, it mounts into a 1/4" hole. Use part #276-272 to look at amber. Regards, Dave R :beerchug:

Hey Lex, The only things in glove box are OM, plastic envelope with registration & insurance papers & "gas book." What's a "gas book" you ask? We gentleman of a certain age used to deduct cigarette, liquor & gas taxes (& maybe others I don't remember - I said I was of a certain age) on our Federal income tax returns. Of course the Fed, doing what it does best, eliminated all that & more. :yup: IIRC, U could take an allowance based on U'r income OR take actual expense if U could prove that it was higher. U who've read some of my other posts know I'm blessed (or burdened) with OCD so U KNOW I kept track of the gas. In back of book was record of warranty work, repairs, service, etc. Well (again OCD) I've had a "gas book" in every vehicle I've owned since 1961 (did I mention I was of a certain age? ) Lex (nor anyone else) will probably never ask me a question again. BTW, the short answer to Lex's question is no. :beerchug:

Lex Telionis did this in Jan 2009. U can read his post at “Accessories and Modifications>DIY center console / glove box LED lighting mod, something that should have been stock.” His was a little more expensive & he placed his light & push button at rear of compartment because he used power from rear seat power point. When I did cup holder illumination, it occurred to me that this could easily be done at front end of compartment. I used Blazer utility light #B461 from Kragen Auto Parts (now O’Reilly Auto Parts) & Gardner Bender SPST, normally closed (or ON), push button switch #GSW-23 from Orchard Supply Hardware (they’re owned by Sears & are in California,) but a Google search will get U results. At first glance light seemed too large, but it does offer options. Light comes with 194 incandescent wedge bulb that can be replaced with 194 LED bulb. I happened to have a spare red which is nice at night. U can pretend U’r a fighter pilot. Frosted lens can be removed for brighter light & with lens removed U can replace 194 LED bulb. U have to remove light (easy to do from inside compartment w/o disturbing anything else) to change 194 incandescent. Most time consuming was positioning of switch, which, because of size, required relieving of a strengthening “rib,” but switch went into position with no need for height adjustment.

Looking for inexpensive cup holder illumination? Assuming U’ve already got wire, quick taps, bullet connectors & shrink tubing, U can put this together for less than $5 & have parts left over. I used a blue 3mm, 4V, 30mA, LED (NTE #30036 – 1 pk), 330 ohm, ¼ watt resistor (NTE #QW133 – 4 pk) & 3mm LED snap-in lamp holder (Philmore #11-400 – 5 bk.) Move shifter to Neutral, open console compartment lid & remove silver console cover by lifting at rear. Loosen 4 shifter bolts, lift & lean to right for access. U’ll tap into PRNDL lamp wires. Black is neg. Blue is pos. On LED bulb, longer lead is pos. & U solder resistor (using alligator clips as heat sinks) to this lead. Use enough wire to reach LED while silver console cover is raised to go over shift lever. Using a tap handle (so I wouldn’t crack plastic) to hold bits, I “drilled” hole in steps to 3/16”. Press lamp holder into hole. Push LED into holder from behind. Connect wires, replace console cover, turn on parking lights & enjoy the glow. While U’r in there, U can tap into power point for a console compartment light. See next post.

I've got a post on adding light to cup holders & light for center console compartment. U can find it at "Audio, Navigation, SYNC & Interior>Cup Holder Illumination & Center Console Compartment Light, Both for < $15.00"

I use a piece of 3/8" plate glass cut to size & shape. You can use some soft material folded to proper thickness at top edge to hold glass firmly in place. When I'm out of car, I use a ball cap to cover GPS and charger. When driving, hat "stores" on headrest. The downside is U lose use of storage nook to left of charger & some use of black "catch all" tray.

As I've posted elsewhere, I bought ’08 LED high mount brake light unit from Ford & parts manager matched TASCA’s price. I did have to pay CA sales tax so it was a little more than if I’d ordered from TASCA. All told, it cost about half ($44.84 vs $87.73). If U’r on the east coast TASCA’s s&h may be cheaper than sending to CA. Maybe faster too.

These parts numbers show as LAMP ASY - REAR, list $139.32 (US$), U'r price $91.95 at TASCA Ford. Est. shipping $10.00 each, $16.55 (for both.) TeamFord wants $103.65. Standard tail lamp is $127.66. I'm guessing extra for chrome. Also see post #2 this thread.

Buying whole mirror is unnecessary. In this forum (Pg 3) find my thread "LED Puddle Lamps?, Less $ Than U Thought". Lamp units are $26.12 + S&H from Tasca Ford. U might try U'r dealer's parts guy & see if he'll price match.

Greetings wwest, thanks for the reply. What is it about FWD or F/awd that can cause engine compression braking to “turn deadly so very quickly?” When U talk of “extending full cut,” (which I understand is to improve emissions & fuel economy) are U referring to situation #1 or #2?