baum

Sorry your SOL currently. It would be a complete custom job to modify the dash bezel. Some small custon audio shops may give it a try (spendy), but not a big box store.

If there was a dash kit available you would be ok. but there is not.

Do you have a dealer installed remote start or aftermarket?/ or is it truely a factory installed?

If dealer or aftermarket they forgot to hook up a disarm wire.

yes like those.

keep in mind your stock radio is also only plays about 7 to 15 watts at rms (continuous level). what stereo manufacturers mislead people with is they state the max power (most factory radios are made by major manufactures).. 50 watts blahh blaahh... a radio will never hit this level.

the best way if funds provide would be to amp those and get a sub... however if you only add a sub amp i personally would not do the re-q5. you can achieve the same with just a line output converter (LOC).

I havent played with clarion in many years. I have always had good results with pioneer, kenwood, and alpine. However i do like the fact that the nx501 all the connections are done via seperate plugs in the back. so if you dont need that function dont hook it up and keep it clean behind the radio (ex: no amps leave the rca plug out). i know that if you dont mind spending a little more and get like a pioneer they have radios with built in bluetooth and some of the other functions you may have to add with this clarion.

Without seeing the actual units and what all they included (hopefully 100% of what is needed) its hard to answer your question fully. If you go aftermarket you will loose any functionality that the stock radio has, if it even has any. a better choice would have been to do all aftermarket. Especially if you plan to change the radio out sometime.

Just an fyi there is how-to's already covering this with pics. there are pics on how to remove the speakers, sub boxes in that location.

JUst to let you know a cap is a waste of money and not needed for your equipment. it puts resistance in the system. it takes away from the true power your amps can achieve off of a continuous power. a cap is useless 95% of the time you are running a stereo. A 2nd battery is the way to go if you truely need it.

I have been in the professional installation world since 1999. I have seen plenty of "mechanics" come begging for help because they "thought" they could do it with their diagrams, guess again. Audio installation and making a car run are 2 completely differnt things.

IMO you should have used some polyfill (they stuffing in pillows). being that you are about .1 cu ft small (it really makes a difference on how efficient the sub is). With polyfill in the box it "tricks" the sub into playing like its a much larger box. I had to do the same thing when i built custom boxes that go around the spare tire. i have 2 12" jl subs and the airspace i had was only like 1 cu ft and i needed a little more so stuffing came into play.

That would be the best way to do it. or else you can use line out converters. these get hooked into the speakers leads from the radio and convert the sound to a low lever signal (rca style)

How face are you going when it cuts in and out? I believe its off of the speed sense. meaning if you are going slow it will play, but once you reach a certain speed it will cut out. Its meant to cut out since its illegal to have video in motion where the driver can see it.

I have a 2009 mine did the same thing. they replaced the seat track on the drivers side for me. so far so good....

I would be willing to say you have a 2010 radio and not 2011. there is no way a 2011 will fit into a 2008 without heavily modifying the dash. 2011 was the re-design year, all the radio was integrated into the dash bezel. 2007-2010 were all the same.

i believe that these functions were not available in 2010

take a pic of your radio and maybe some can help, but sorry i believe you are out of luck.

or get gas receipts

or blow your nose

dont get receipts... balancing a checkbook to me is going to online banking and looking at how much i have when i feel the time is right..

i just blow my nose on my shirt. lol

Ok, I found a sale brouchure and it IS standard. Everything that is standard in the SEL comes with the Sport plus the body kit, etc.

 

SO, I researched further and mine was a special order car (Sat delete) sent to Hawaii and ultimately returned to the states due to military orders. Mystery solved. I picked this one up with only 8,000 miles and it's in perfect shape...just well traveled :-)

which makes sense because sat radio is not available in Hawaii

i dont have trash in my car. i will drink a soda so it stays in the cup holder, but i dont eat in my car.

that thread is for an aftermarket radio. since yours is the pioneer factory you will need the ford lockpic

http://www.coastaletech.com/synclockpick.htm

If there is no antenna on the back hatch door just above the glass then no sat radio!

Aftermarket. just do it in stages if needed. once you install an aftermarket the sound will be a difference be day and night. look online you can get some aftermarket nav units for 400 or so on up

Freakin' SEXY!!

i was wondering the rubber size too and rubbing?

hmmm upgrade my sport 22..... hmmm

are the inserts powdercoated or painted?

HI, I just purchased a used 2008 Edge and I'm using Ravelco, but still wanted a bit more. I wanted to layer my security set up. This is apparently what is recommenced. Layering or using more then one system. I wanted to stop all amatures with a normal alarm and most importantly get a inexpensive 2-way system to alert me of any would be crooks.

 

I found the Viper 3203 at best buy this weekend for only $ 75.00 not sure if others will be able to find the deal I did. But the bad news is with installation and de-activating the factory alarm, plus tax, I had to Pay $ 267.00 Total wich might not be so bad for a professionally installed 2-way Viper system. this system is also upgradable and has a 2000 foot range instead of 1500.

 

I will later post some more info on this forum and my own website but i haven't had time to take my photos and make my review of my Edge, Ravelco and Viper yet, hehee.

 

I live in Jersey and brought mine at Best Buy in Rockaway Mall or Complex on New Hope Ave. Rockawy NJ

Just a heads up there is no factory alarm to be deactivated in your edge. ford has not installed them from the factory since late 05. Hopefully they didnt charge you too much for this feature!! good luck!

I'll look it up, Thanks!

What is a normal rate I should pay for install? I am thinking I will buy the product online and just pay to get it installed. Thanks

Look into the brand you plan to get and ask the installer before you purchase. some shops will not install the product unless you buy it from them. Or else they will and charge you more, and no warranty.

Shops going rates vary on many factors. basic install? any added features? bypass?

that 159 is a hell of a price, but its an entry level starter. from my expirence with all the shops i have worked at we would go anywhere from 159-199 (just depends on the brand) and up, plus the bypass on top of that. The higher the price the more features you get. for me mine is all decked out. i have control over each heated seat independently, rear defrost, hatch opener. All shops do the bypasses differently. some will use a key and hide it in the car like stated above, or some will use a data bus module that "talks" to the BCM and mimics the key resistance code. The advantages to this way is there is no key hidden in the car. If your Edge has the push button start this is the only way.

If your in seattle look into car toys.

Is there any brand names on it? its something aftermarket. i assume you bought the edge used???

whatever it is when they battery was replaced the reset this unit thats why its happening now.

95% of fords do not have a factory alarm on them. the dealership tends to make the customer believe that there is one due to the horn honking and having the pats system. about 2005 was the last time they installed them as standard.

The only way to truely test to see if you have one is to roll the windows down. lock the doors with the remote. pressit twice. let it sit for a minute or two. reach in and open the door with the handle on the inside if the horn honks and lights flash you have an alarm. if not then you dont.

like stated above if there is visable sign of entry most likely you left it unlocked or they used a lock pick/ slim jim.

My dealer has never charged for key programming...including my after-market flip key. It takes 2 minutes!

It its only a 2 second job if you have 2 original factory keys. turn the first key on for 5 seconds turn it off, do the same with the second, now do the same with the new key. and your done. This is how ford keys have been programmed for years. now some of the newer ones (2010 or newer) have the key programming options turned off in the sjb so the programmer is the only way to program them.

now if you only have 1 key yhey need to use a programmer. it still is only a 10 to 20 minute job with the programmer. but a dealer has to make money too. Just like im sure you place of employment charges who they need to to pay you and make some money a dealer need to charge for their techs time and so the dealer makes some money. dealers have "set" rates for some things. say they are a tune up. according to their books its a 4 hour job. now if the tech get it completes in 2.5-3 hours then he can move onto the next job. at some shops a good tech can do 10-15 hours of "book time" in an 8 hour day. not to mention the average employer that pays someone 25.00per hour really needs to chage atleast 40-50per hour to break even once all the business overhead is paid for.

do a search of the forum this has been talked about many times.

IMO its not worth it. wiring harnesses, switches, handles, actuators, panels, labor. i would bet over 1k if not 2.

Look into the MKX version it may be the same as an edge. they have locks on them. i had once as a rental once and it had it