baum

Many different things can trigger it. its a ckeck engine light. i would try and take it to an autozone if you have one near. they have a scan tool and will scan it for free. your dealer will charge you shop time. most likely even just to plug it in.

you will still need to run the temp sensor to the engine. It appears to be made by gentex some of those on that link i put are that brand. i couldnt find any installation manuals so i dont know what the install is like exactly. if i could find one i could tell you.

Since you will have to go aftermarket you will need to do some wiring. its not a plug and play operation. unfortunately all the ones with the temp also have the compass that i can see. I believe that with these mirrors you need to wire a module to the front of your vhicle for the compass and temp. see the link there are many different ones there: http://www.buycheapr.com/us/result.jsp?ga=us13&q=homelink+mirrors now here is the kicker. the ford mirrors are a PAIN in the A$$ to remove. some dealers wont even take them off since they are soo hard to remove.

Is it a factory nav?? if so was it not factory installed? IMO it sounds like you have a base model edge without sync and someone installed a factory nav unit from like ebay. if its a factory installed unit it should have sync. being that you dont have sync its telling me its not a factory installed and someone bought a nav unit and installed it. There is more to it than just a "module". you need the dash harness (main harness for the vehicle), the mirror with the mic in it, you need the switch panel for the wheel, you may need a new clock spring for the steeling wheel. If you are after bluetooth it would be much easier to get the ford accesories piece ot a parrot cit.

Since the bezel is integratted to the radio your SOL.. sorry. I have only heard of it being done once and there was LOTS to do that most audio shops will pass on it. due the conditions if (ever) a aftermarket dash kit does come out it will be a few years. Not to mention it will be one that will cost you atleast 100 if it does...

NO. 2011 its all integrated into the dash. 2007-2010 radios are the same. as for the the other i knwo it will fit, the main harnness should be the same. as for the bluetooth part that is where you are sol. that is all part of the sync its seperate from the radio.

Next time you get in release the ebrake first (i didnt know anybody actually still uses them in an automatic) when it releases pull up on it to see if its loose a little still.

yes you can power all 4 speakers and a sub. however you would loose the fading from front to rear. If you cont care about this then you can. if you do then your SOL. If the speakers were not the same size i would never sat to do this. my setup consists of 6.5" components in the front doors, stock speakers in the rear doors, kenwood touch screen deck and 1 4 channel amp. my amp puts out 100 x 4. I have it so the fronts get the 100 each and the amp is bridgable so the rear channel is to the subs. this gives the subs about 400 watts (i have 2 12's so each sub is getting about 200 each) I am partial to JL Audio. always have been always will be. I have had the same subs/amp/ components for about 9 (4 different vehicles) years and all play they way they did when i bought them. Is there a reason why you are stuck on the alpine?? dont get me wrong, they are nice, but it sounds like you are willing to spend a little change. in this case splurge a little... go and check out some smaller "ma-pa" type audio stores (not your big box). you can hear the difference between the components and the 5x7. The reason i dont amp my rear speakers is 1 they are factory, 2 they are there just for a little rear fill the deck power is plenty for them.

I would hate to say it but with those subs you will need a have a powerful amp. in this case i dont think you can put affordable and good in the same sentenance.... If it was me (and this is my own opinion) i would do just 1 12" and then you could look into something like the JL XD series amps. they have a 600.1 that would power a single sub just greatly and they also have a 300.4 4 channel amp both are around the $350-400 mark. and both amps are really small. about 8.5 x 7 x 2"

The actual stock size is 6x8 front/rear however 99% of aftermarket are 5x7 with mounting tabs that will fit 6x8. I did 6.5" components and just made brackets for the tweeters to fit into the door location with the woofer. I would personaly look into that. you will get much better sound out of components. As for the ohm load on the sub. 2 ohm are not louder. now if you put an 8ohm load on an amp that can handle a 4 ohm load then it will be. or a 4ohm on a 2ohm stable amp then the amp is only putting out half power. but if you do a 4ohm on a 4ohm amp it will be the same. your 2ohm stable amps (for subs) are going to be your "mono" amp. depending on how many subs you are going to run you will need about 400 watts rms to each sub. Dont pay any attention to the max power of the amp (most of the "flashy" sats will be the max power). You should match the RMS power of the amp to the RMS power to the sub. so in your case i believe the RMS of the sub is 500. Match the amp to that. Be aware of the cheap amps that say they are 1000 watts and their RMS are really only like 250. Customers of mine would always get pissed when they would have us install their pwn shop amps rated at 1000 watts and it barely moves a 10"

dealer is the only place.. sorry.. most of the times when you buy one off like ebay or something the seller knows to "wipe it clean" now this time you will have to try a dealer. hoping that you dont need it plugged into the original vehicle to clean it.

An expert would run it to the ignition harness and put a 10-15 amp fuse on it. a hack will tell you to use a fuse tap and run it to an accessory fuse in the fuse box. and with the way new cars are computer controlled putting the extra load on some circuits have been known to cause problems.

If i could recommend something to you. get the subs in a 4ohm load (if they come in 8 also) or if they are a dual voice coil get a dual 2ohm. That amp will put out almost double the power at a 2ohm load on the sub channel as it will with a 4 ohm load. on a side note if you are doing custom boxes on the side of the spare, you can go bigger. I had 2 12" subs in the same location (with leaving the tire in) and no big bulky box for a thiefs looking.

Its not plug and play. as you can see this is WAY different than that video i posted about the 2011's. But when you star to cuss about the short range all i can say is i told you so!! as long as you know how to use a multimeter, reason being is there are many of the same wire colors in the same location as those are stated. Make sure you have a "airbag" friendly dmm. if you have a cheap ones (or a test light) and test an airbag wire Poof.. there it went. airbags and other sensors are not marked differently after the plug. On a side note i just checked my tech data and if you were to go with an aftermarket unit (a 1 button unit like the second one i posted abot there will only be 6-7 wires you need to connect, and no extra relays like you need to purchase with their kit or if you do the 2 way unit there is 2 more wires for the door locks)

Keep in mind, 2011 and 2007 are completely different. the redesign was changed in 2011. 2011 are now computer controlled thats why you need to get it programmed. the 2007 are not. you can either hide the key in the dash or you can get a bypass module. Alot of people are calling newer vehicles "data car starters" all its really doing is signaling the computer what to do. where the older cars (in the edges case 2010 or older) these are not canbus cars on the ignitions. In the case of the 2007 you will have to either hard wire into the ignition harness (if you can get lucky there may be a t-harness, doubt it though), however hardwire the rest of the connections. Alot of the steps you are concerned about (led hole, hood pin, antenna) the only real one you need to do is the antenna. its just a matter of running the cable and sticking it to the window (its held on with double sided tape usually). The rest of them you can mount under the dash. However the hood pin wire you will need to "think" is being ativated to program if i remember correctly. This is why i really am a firm believer of the aftermarket starters (as you can tell with all the posts i have mentioned it in). Being that your ford one is actually made by an aftermarket company (code alarm same as audiovox) just a different remote that says ford. you will still run into the same problems as you would if you have troubles with the vehicle due to the installation (dealer being a$$es about the install). they only way you wont get any hassle is if the dealer installs it. Keep in mind there is always the magnuson-moss act. this covers the consumer from dealers being a$$es and trying not to cover a warranty item. I just bought a new car and when the finance guy tried to say something about installing aftermarket items, i said you can just save your breath thats what the act covers.... Here is a youtube video of the installation on a 2011 f150. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C3sU2KNGamw it shows how easy the plug-nplay version is. however its only good for fords 2011 and up!! sorry

Its no different than any other remote starter. you will have wires you need to tap into in the kick panel (under door sil), ignition harness, and under hood. only this is it comes will all the necessary parts (hood pins, resistors, crimps...) Here is one i just put on a car: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_18849_AutoPage-C3-RS-625.html (its a 2way unit, add on the bypass for the key and your under 200 for longer range) Or here is one that is a single button similar to the ford: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_16743_Viper-Responder-One-P-N-4203V.html

It should come with it. otherwise google.. im sure someone out there (maybe not this forum) has posted before. IMO go with a true aftermarket (dei, autopage, audiovox, compustar...) unit. you will get greater range and more flexibility if you desire. both of those units are actually made by code alarm.

what kind of remote start are you installing?

I like to call fords system a "glorified" keyless entry. 98% of ford owners think they have a factory alarm. yeah it will make noises when you hit the lock button a few times in a row, panic it. but no real alarm. The sole purpose of an alarm is a deterent. they are not meant to stop theft, they can help deter it. a true alarm will come with sensors to disable the starter (similar to what the pats does), a shock sensor, and a door trigger sensor (so when the doors open it goes off). a good thief will get what they want! I personally have always had aftermarket alarm/remote starters in my vehicles (for about the last 12 years). I like having the flexibility of being able to do many things with it. IE on my 09 sport i could adjust the heated seats independently and adjust the temp on them. i could open the hatch, i could start the car from my android phone via an app.

Thats because ford hasnt had a factory installed alarm since about 2002 or so (depends on the vehicle). They had to install a bypass module for the pats. alot of times the sales guys will tell you it has an alarm since the remote can honk the horn and with the pats system, but little do they know its just a keyless entry. Now if you truely had an alarm all they would have had to do is hook up a disarm wire. what this does is when you remote start the car is remote starter put out a signal to the disarm wire in the car to shut off the alarm so it doesnt go off when you remote start it. i personally have yet to see one on an edge.

That key will not work. The encoding in the pats is completely different. In the 07 its the 40bit coding and in the 11 its the new 80 bit coding.

I have to agree. however 160 usually doesnt include a bypass for the chip in the key (and if they did include it for you that was a hell of a deal). Most shops will usually do 150 to 200 for a basic rs unit like you are talking about. then another 75 to 100 for the bypass needed. I believe you will stll need some sort of bypass for that ford unit also. on a side note. in my 09 sport i did a complete rs/alarm (but i was a installer for 10 years) and i thought it was an easy vehicle.

A true HID kit comes with the ballasts to control the light. the real HID actually use less wattage than you standard 35. You may notice that some stores/ebay..... will sell those "ultra white".... blah blah blah.. bulbs as "HID" those are the bulbs that are the 100/50 watt. These are the ones that can melt wire harnesses (i had it happen to me on a motorcycle). And some cars cant handle the power consumption. There is only really 1 number on an hid kit its the rating for the color. the range of 4300k is a more white light, and the higher the number brings in the blues and purples. HID's actually work better in a projector housing. The lights are easily adjusted more. In some states there are laws against the higher color range numbers. Places can send them with saying the are for off road use only...

in your case i dont think there isnt one sorry... somehow you need to not let the alarm see the car running on the remote start. in your case thought the factory remote start in built into the computer so you cant defeat it. even if you can "shunt" the ignition during remote star then you have to bypass the perimeter sensors to not pic up the vibrations. i would take it back to the dealer and tell them to fix it (or try to). their scan tool wont tell them what to do so im pretty sure they wont be able to do anything about it. good luck

So the remote start came on the vehicle from the factory and you had the dealer install the alarm?? if this is the case i would be willing to bet the alarm is seeing the ignition turning on (when you remote start it) so its triggering the alarm.