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I'm new to the forum, from Puerto Rico. I have a 2010 SEL ford edge, which has been very good to me and i honestly love everything about it. Short of 100k miles the CEL came on and noticed rough idling RPM's and a weird exhaust noise. Kept driving carefully for a few days and i noticed strange behavior and sounds when accelerating gently under 15 MPH, but at higher speeds the issue was gone.


Got her to the mechanic and initially told me it was an i take sensor (can't remember specifically which one) but called later and told me it was the variable time solenoid. On the good side, engine was checked and told me some deposits were found, but she seemed to be clean and properly maintained. With the solenoid replacement, he charged me 600$ for the service, which included an engine cleaning and throttle body cleaning. Is it a good price? I think I could've found a lower price, but the shop is reputable and has very good feedback from customers.


Thanks in advance for suggestions/thoughts.

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Welcome to the forum! As long as the catalytic converters are in good shape, you are ahead of the game already. Did the mechanic pull codes from the PCM to see if there might be anything wrong? Many codes do not trip a Check Engine Light.


At this mileage, the Edge would benefit from a spark plug and PCV valve change (is DIY-able). Switch to High Mileage oil if available. Clean the MAF sensor (sits in the pipe attached to the air cleaner box) thoroughly with MAF cleaner (not brake cleaner or carb cleaner, etc). Having the ignition system (coil on plugs specifically) checked is also a good idea, don't want a bad PCM frying the coils or vice versa.


Not sure what all the shop did, but diagnostics can cost money. The induction services can cost around $150 or so by themselves on the mainland. Hopefully they ran a can of fuel injector cleaner through the gas tank also.

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Thanks for the advice. I'm not sure which code did it throw but the code informed the CEL came because of an intake sensor (not sure which one specifically).


I was wondering what benefits may i see with the solenoid replacement and throttle body cleaning? I know (or i think) that the throttle body cleansing could give me better throttle response and smoother rpm's. I had planned to change the spark plugs later on, as it hasn't given me any problems at all.


I used to use castrol edge synthetic, but i tried pennzoil ultra on the last oil change and was pretty happy with it. For the upcoming oil change i was dwelling on trying mobil 1, but not sure if it's just plain marketing and hype on the oil quality.


Any thoughts?

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So the only error pointed to an intake sensor? Can you post a list if you have it? Or get a code reader and read the codes/have an auto store read them for you for free. Otherwise it's pure guesswork on our part. A MAF Error code would look like this:

P0102 Mass Air Flow (MAF) Circuit Low Input




Cleaning the throttle body IS important and should be part of the induction service I mentioned. This is what such a service does:



It does help smooth things out significantly. Make sure the oil/filter are changed right after (or within 500 miles) the service is done to get out any crud loosened by the service. Afterwards, use a] high quality oil, and b] high quality fuel. A fuel injector cleaner (not just any brand, but Techron or BG for example) in the gas tank at every oil change helps too. Don't want to use the cleaners too often, no sooner than every oil change.


I assume the solenoid being referred to is the Variable Camshaft Timing (VCT) Oil Control Solenoid. An important part of the timing system of the engine.


Variable Camshaft Timing (VCT) system

The VCT system changes intake camshaft timing dependent on engine speed, load and oil temperature. Oil pressure advances and retards camshaft timing to improve low and high speed engine performance, engine idle quality and exhaust emissions.




You do have to remove the valve covers to replace the solenoids (1 per bank), and that would be a good time to replace plugs/PCV valve since they'd be fully exposed in the process. Do the valve covers have any leaks? That could be caused by pressurization of the PCV system which could be caused by a sticking PCV valve.


Either the Castrol or the Pennzoil you mentioned should work fine, how the engine reacts to each is more important. So if the Edge likes the Pennzoil, stick with that. Objectively, I use the published Product Data Sheets (PDSs) for comparing products, because there are few if any unbiased product comparison tests out there. Amsoil has published a few, but of course, they are in the business of selling the product.


Castrol edge w Syntec PDS.pdfPennzoil-Ultra Full Synthetic TDS.pdf



The NoAck Volatility is one of the important characteristics. The lower the volatility, the less the vapors in the system, the more stable the oil, and the less gunk accumulated in the engine.


The key is to base the oil change interval on the FILTER. I hope you are using the Motorcraft filter, it is a very high-quality design. You CAN use the K&N or Mobil 1 full synthetic filters also, I just have no idea how well they would work on the Edge. Use the maintenance schedules in the owner's manual to help you determine the interval (NORMAL for mixed city/highway, or SEVEREDUTY for mostly city/stopngo).


2010 Edge Owner Information

2010 Edge Owner’s Manual Printing 3 (PDF)

Scheduled Maintenance Guide Printing 2 (PDF)

Warranty Guide Printing 4 (PDF)


If anything, if you have replaced the oil/filter regularly and it hasn't tended to become dirty (just darker), I would have the engine oil flushed (such as with BG or AutoRX products), then see if there's still a need for the solenoid replacement. Unless there's a code set in the computer, I can't see the solenoid being "preventive maintenance", but you know what they say about "internet advice" LOL. If I were doing "preventive maintenance" of that type, I'd do the whole shebang: timing chain, timing tensioner, VCT solenoid, water pump, belts, etc. Right now it is probably more important to make sure you have no coolant loss (don't want to have to replace water pump which is behind the timing chain), and that the belts get replaced than have the solenoids replaced.

Edited by WWWPerfA_ZN0W
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I'll ask for the specific code when i pick her up tomorrow. The mechanic told me it was the VCT oil control solenoid, as it had gone bad. The RPM's were hovering from 400 to 600 and the idle was just very rough, but she never failed me.


Thanks for the helpful post, i really appreciate you taking the time to do so. Will post everything as soon as i get her back, hopefully the issue is resolved.


Again, thanks for your help.

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Mechanic changed variable control solenoid about a week ago. When i went to pick her up she felt punchy and very smooth, but the same symptoms appeared a couple of minutes later. Returned her for further inspection and the mechanic is still trying to find the issue. He told me the injectors will be checked and cleaned and that the electricity cables will be inspected (i am not very familiarized with electronics so cant really explain what he told me).


I'm happy that he is responsible and is willing to search the source of the problem and fix it, as it shows the commitment he has with his clients, but it's been a week and I'm still waiting on a final answer.


Same symptoms appeared; check engine light on, stalling at idle, mechanical noises under 10 MPH and strange exhaust noise. Wish me luck, i hope to get it fixed this week.



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Were the spark plugs & PCV valve changed while the mechanic was doing the VCS? They should have been, no reason for doublework. Basic maintenance.


The MAF sensor should also be tested/replaced, easy peasy. The function of the MAF sensor is too important to ignore. If the oxygen sensors are switching properly, that would be good to know as well.


Do these guys have uptodate diagnostic equipment? Can they figure out if fuel injectors are a problem? If they are running diagnostics, they should check fuel pump pressure & volume while they are at it. I don't believe this to the problem, but could be.


Also have the battery checked with a modern digital battery load tester. The Edge is heavily electronics dependent, so having a strong battery is very important. If battery is good, verify the alternator/generator.

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I wasn't aware that the spark plugs could've be changed, so i didn't suggest to change them (I'm so bad with this type of stuff).


They ran a full diagnose, checked the wires, battery, throttle body, intake, sensors etc. The thing is he does not specialize on ford vehicles, but he is very well regarded on my area and everybody has great feedback on his work and ethics.


After the solenoid was replaced the problem persisted so he continued to work on my edge. Finally, he found out that it was a problem with the VCT cam phaser. He told me a close friend of his (who specializes on fords) was very knowledgeable and had specialized tools for the labor and could work on her. Will drop her off tomorrow morning so he can take a look. The first mechanic strongly recommended this new technician, as he works on many ford fleets from companies.


I'm pleased with the first mechanic, he gave me a decent price for labor and went above and beyond to help me In this process. Honestly my edge feels better than ever when revving and driving above 20 MPH (as the problem can only be noticed below this range), and can feel a difference on overall ride. He specializes on european cars, so his experience with american cars is limited; but he is reputable and was extremely close to my house, and i'm veery busy so it was a win-win.


Does the engine need to be pulled out? I'm very worried about the situation, and was wondering if it could be an expensive repair. If so, should i try to go for a low mileage engine to replace the current one? The current engine has almost 100k miles, so im starting to worry about it reliability.


For the hat it's worth, there's a known TSB for this issue, it seems to be caused by poor design. Will get the exact one tomorrow and post it along with a new update.



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I hope you get a price break on the new guy's labor & parts charges too! And also that he's trustworthy and good at diagnostics.


Usually, when a phaser needs to be replaced, it will set a code in the computer: P0016 and the check engine light will go on.


There is a TSB that might be applicable here:

TSB 11-6-1 3.5L / 3.7L ENGINE - VCT CODES P0011, P0012, P0016, P0018, P0021, P0022 - RUNS ROUGH OR MISSES - VEHICLES BUILT ON OR BEFORE 12/15/2008 TSB 11-6-1_3.5L-3.7L ENGINE - VCT CODES P0011, P0012, P0016, P0018, P0021, P0022 - RUNS ROUGH OR MISSES - VEHICLES BUILT ON OR BEFORE 20081215.pdf


Cam phasers are an in-vehicle repair so no, the engine does not need to be pulled out. The timing cover does come off during this process, so I would have the timing drive components including chains, tensioners, etc. replaced at the same time. There are 2 cam phasers, 1 for each bank of the engine, and both should be replaced at the same time.

Phaser Front: http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/xEQAAOSw9N1Vn-8s/s-l1600.jpg

Phaser Back: http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/DmEAAOSwPcVVn-8s/s-l1600.jpg


What a typical timing set contains (image from EBay listing):

3 Timing Chain
2 Tensioner
1 Sprockets
4 Timing Guide

Image: http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/h0oAAOSwpDdVJ~2S/s-l1600.jpg


And since all these things have to be removed anyway to get to the water pump, be sure to have the water pump inspected thoroughly as well. No point in having to go in again to replace it if it's already showing signs of leakage/wear. If this guy is so familiar with this engine, he should have no problem giving you a solid recommendation and standing by it, in writing.

Edited by WWWPerfA_ZN0W
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