robrivers Posted November 25, 2017 Report Share Posted November 25, 2017 Installing the new bearing was going pretty smooth until it was about 3/4 way in it became hard to continue in and had to pull out the 4 foot pipe to put on the breaker bar again and it was just squeaking loud as we cranked it in. So we loosened up the bearing press plates and Dad sprayed some WD40 in the back side of the bearing around the edges and then went back to cranking it in. The bearing did get seated all the way in the knuckle and C-clip installed. We are using one of those Harbor Freight wheel bearing adapter press kits. Then we pressed in the hub, which looked like it was pressed in all the way judging from the front but after removing the press plates, the end of the hub shaft did not make it all the way to the end of the bearing on the backside, looked like 1/4 or so shy. At that point I noticed there was some play in the bearing, I could wiggle the hub and when pulling toward me the bearing looked like it could slide in and out just maybe 1/8". When rotate the hub it looks like the whole bearing is rotating on the outer race (I think), the inner race with hub only looks like it's rotating if I put a little pressure down on it. Thought after tightening the axle nut down on it everything would pull itself together in the right place. Took it out for quick spin and it drove much better, sounded fine until a couple turns in there were lots of clunking and it sounded worse than the old bearing. FYI This drive was on our farm land, 0 people or objects around if things went bad. 1) When pressing the hub in I just used one of the plates that covered the opening on the backside of the knuckle which put the pressure on the knuckle and not the inner race of the bearing and I *think* as the hub pressed in it PUSHED OUT the backside split of the inner race and/or deformed the back shield. I think that's where the wiggle and side to side play came from, Is that possible? 2) I might be crazy in thinking rotating the hub the outer race was turning, but thought it could that be from use using the WD40? It definitely wasn't easy to get that new bearing seated so the outer race had a good tight fit. Unless it just appeared to me as the whole bearing assembly rotating because I think I broke it all apart from #1. 3) It took 20 minutes with a 600ftlb impact wrench to get off the axle nut, it would take 30 seconds or so just to make 1 full revolution of the nut. Is that unusual? Reinstalling later was the same, the threads looked fine but it took forever to get that thing off/on and that's with an impact gun, didn't seem right. We haven't gotten back to pull it apart again, won't be able to until next weekend. I have another bearing, but trying to figure out all the places we went wrong before trying again. Any thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted November 25, 2017 Report Share Posted November 25, 2017 What brand of bearing did you use? SKF, Timken, or Motorcraft OEM? That bearing was apparently damaged during the installation. The axle nut is not reusable. NOTE: Apply the brake to keep the halfshaft from rotating.Position the halfshaft in the hub and use the previously removed wheel hub nut and washer to seat the halfshaft. Tighten to 350 Nm (258 lb-ft). Remove and discard the wheel hub nut and washer. NOTICE: The wheel hub nut contains a one-time locking chemical that is activated by the heat created when it is tightened. Install and tighten the new wheel hub nut to specification within 5 minutes of starting it on the threads. Always install a new wheel hub nut after loosening or when not tightening within the specified time or damage to the components may occur. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robrivers Posted November 26, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2017 (edited) It is a Timken bearing. I just picked up a new axle nut as well, though I'd be impressed (as I lay upside in the ditch) if the old nut came loose on it's own because it was a beast to get all the way off and back on! Edited November 26, 2017 by robrivers 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbwt Posted November 26, 2017 Report Share Posted November 26, 2017 Somehow during the process the bearing got muked up. I replace the bearing and hub both generally at the same time. Easier to work with new parts. However yes it does cost more. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robrivers Posted December 2, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2017 So got back at it today and uh 4 of the 5 lug nuts on the tire were loose! Stupid me I must have forgotten to torque them down and that was all the noise and uncontrollable steering! I pulled the axle back out and checked the bearing and HUB and it was seated all the way in with 0 play. Rechecked torque on all the bolts and everything is great again. Did the passenger side bearing today as well and had no issues. Drove it back home tonight a good 2 hour 170mile drive up from the in-laws farm and she's smooth and rattle free 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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