MrHappy

Thanks.  Debating replacing just the swollen ones or every single one to avoid any issues.  (Leaning toward the latter).  Would love to find some nice, decently priced one piece black lugs that won't rust but that seems an impossibility.  Might just order 4 packs from your link and call it day.  Thanks again!

Doing some work on my wife's Edge and looks like she's got the common lug swell going on.  Read through the various posts on this but don't seem to have a consensus on replacements.  Corrosion matters here in the northeast so that's a factor.  Her existing ones made it about 4 years.  Can anyone confirm these are indeed the same as the Edge lugs (even though they are made for the F150)?  ACPZ-1012-B (vs the -M) I don't want to go to a 22mm just for her sake on the side of the road somewhere.  Chrome or black, doesn't matter.  At this price I'm ok with replacing again in 4 years but if we need to buy the $6-7 per ones specific to the Edge there have to be better one piece non rusting options out there I'd think Any help is appreciated as always!

I saw the Amazon assorted kit but didn't find you're second link until you posted it, thank you!!!

Awesome, thank you everyone.  I couldn't clearly tell what they were due to the rust but this gives me a good point to go from.  Pretty sure they don't sell the nuts by themselves based on when the passenger side was replaced under warranty.  (Same issue)  The dealer had to order the entire replacement shield kit.  (Seemed wasteful then too).  Thanks again!

Hate to revive such an old thread but this has happened to my wife's Edge ST for the second time now.  First time was under warranty so the dealer replaced the passenger side.  Now it's the back of the driver's side.  (And out of warranty)  Heard it yesterday, found this thread and expected to install a few zip ties on the plastic bits and be done.  Instead, one of the washers and nuts belonging to the back outside metal screws sticking down has come off and is gone.  For the life of me I can't figure out wtf size that metal screw sticking down is to get a properly fitting nut (and washer) to reinstall and thread lock.  Anyone happen to know what nut is needed?

Just to clarify, this the nut for the screw that is sticking downward from the undercarriage toward the ground.  (Along the outside, in this case at the back of the driver's side shield just past the front of the rear driver's side door) The others along the same edge have a nut and washer in place (look metal) but are a bit rusty so I'm hesitant to remove them since they're solidly stuck in place and don't want to cause more problems than already exist.

For anyone who runs into this issue in the future, here's what corrected it for me.

After the error I tried the power cycle/reset things to no avail.

I then reran the sync (not NAV) update to lay it over top of itself followed by power cycle and still no luck.

I forced a check update via wifi where it eventually grabbed one of the nav files (I'm guessing the damaged one during the failed update) but even after that it still didn't work.

I then re-applied the exact same NAV update as before, followed by power cycle and it's back.  My hunch is the OTA download fixed whatever junk file there was which in turn allowed the NAV reapplication to success this time (where before it said it did but still didn't work).  Either way, it's working again. ?

It is v3.4 and both Sync and Map are currently showing the correct updated versions (so no newer is available for either).

Recently notified of both a sync and (free) NAV update for our Edge ST.  I've done these before, no big deal.  Installed the NAV update (completed successfully or so it said) then the Sync update (same completed successfully).  Did the open door, lock, close door wait, restart engine dance.  Now if I try voice commands she doesn't say anything like it used to before (please say a command), just a bong then if I try a command it says not available, complete your NAV update.  Tried re-doing the nav update even though the version shown is the updated one, goes through process, successful then same result.  Was hoping to avoid a factory reset since a) I don't know it'll fix the issue and b) will have to set everything back up again.  I see this is a somewhat common issue across their models but no fix other than a supposed blank map file which you then reapply the updates and hope for the best.  Anyone know a proper fix for this issue?  

On 3/18/2022 at 5:15 PM, enigma-2 said:

Are you certain that the dealer actually put in Motorcraft shocks? It's common for dealers to substitute NAPA parts to save money. NAPA parts are a lot cheaper, easier to get (and junk imo). This is especially true for warranty work.

I'll know when I yank em, but even if they did, the original equipment one failed at 20k miles which is still really early.  OEMs cutting dimes and corners everywhere it seems   Still can't find a decent mechanic anywhere though, kinda nuts.  

Thank you, just wanted to verify I wasn't crazy.  I'm going to avoid the factory shocks since I've had 2 failures in a span of a year.  Found some Bilstein rear's at a decent price. If I had a lift I'd probably tackle it myself, doesn't look too complicated for just the rears.  Sadly, not sure how it would go with just jack stands.  Time to shop around for a more reasonable mechanic/shop I guess.

Appreciate the info!  Not sure all 4 are in the budget at this time but was planning on both rears.  Guessing the front's will crap out soon enough anyway   Just nuts that it's failed twice in such a short amount of mileage.  

So our Edge ST has another leaking rear factory shock.  This same one was replaced a year and 2 weeks ago under factory warranty.  Naturally it's now a few months out of factory warranty and the dealer says the 1 year shock replacement warranty has expired.  No way I'm giving them a dollar to replace again with the same defective garbage.  Got a quote from a local shop for $300 for one replacement (recommend both rears so $600).  Seems kind of high but I honestly don't know.  Also looking at getting the Bilstein B6's myself and having them installed somewhere since I don't have a lift or much experience.  Part of that quote is new/replacement shock mounts and mounting nuts.($60 for the mount and $15 for the nut).  Are those required/recommended or just fluff in the quote? Car is just over 3 years old and around 28k in miles.  Thoughts/suggestions are greatly appreciated!

Totally my bad, had read the beginning of that thread and assumed it was still the tsb for shift programming.  Thank you and mods feel free to delete this thread if needed.

Had the tranny reprogrammed and all was well for a while.  Now, intermittently and not enough to reproduce on command, there's a gnarly thunk sound/feel when shifting from drive to park or park to drive/reverse.  I made sure my wife was engaging the brake all the way but heard/felt it again yesterday.  No error codes thrown but it's definitely not normal and I'd like to stop it before it grenades something.  Thoughts/suggestions?

Wife had her headlight recall and tranny tsb done.  (Early ST build)  Happy to say both are working as intended now!  Dealer had no clue on the TSB for the tranny (yikes) so thank you to whomever posted it originally.  I printed it out, gave them the paper and off they went.

Agree with the above.  The Ford rep who replied is either unaware or misleading.  It's possible that ONLY the engine noise can't be turned off (as mentioned above it'll also turn off noise cancellation) but it's definitely there on our early build and definitely NOT a natural exhaust sound.  

Correct on #1, only the steering wheel is on the home screen display.  Heated seats are the physical/tactile buttons or also under the climate tab I believe for the on screen buttons.

Nope, sorry, this is an Edge only forum... you have to leave and never return.  ?   Seriously tho, congrats on the Nautilus, we really looked heavily into one as well before getting a great deal on our ST.

On 2/15/2019 at 4:05 PM, handfiler said:

If you pause the video at the one minute mark you will see the information that would be on the printout minus the air/fuel graph which some tuners elect not to show.

Thank you, missed that the first time around.  

Please report back if you get a TSB# posted on your paperwork (or request the TSB #).  My wife's has started to exhibit very rough shifts on slow acceleration at random times recently.  Not enough to reproduce but I'm hoping to address before it becomes a major issue and if it's just software, that's an easy fix.

On 2/14/2019 at 12:32 PM, handfiler said:

 

See post#1

I saw a video of a dyno run with some graphics overlays but not the actual dyno run printout with the specifics.

Any dyno runs?

I heard the 2020's are bumping horsepower and torque by 25% and dropping the price 10% due to slow sales for the 2019s...

Just kidding, wanted to see how many current buyers like myself were freaking out right now! ?

You can get that one to go away by turning off auto updating but the other splash screen (something about data) still comes up.  Only way to kill that one is turn all the stuff off = no Ford MyPass app, which sucks.  Come on Ford techs, do better, please!

Just under 1500 miles, averaging a bit over 18 with mainly city driving and some warm ups in the very cold. Respectable IMO.