CanuckG35

I used 303 Cleaner & Spot Remover for my detailing business. There hasn't been anything yet that it couldn't remove. Spray it on, let it set for a couple of minutes and agitate very gently.

http://www.303products.com/shop303/index.cfm/category/68/303-cleaner-and-spot-remover.cfm

Where do those pesky swirl marks come from?

 

I haven't had any in a few years, hhmm.

 

ab

The vast majority come from poor washing/drying habits.

I challenge anyone with any buffer to do as good as I do by hand with "clay bar."

 

I've been using Mothers

http://www.autogeek....tm_campaign=CSE

 

and Meguiar's

http://www.autogeek....etail-clay.html

 

Here's a YouTube, well worth the watch. Or just go to YouTube and type in clay bar.

 

This is SO much easer than hand or machine buffing!

I just did my "new to me" 05 Mini Cooper.

Wash, clay bar, wax and I guaranty it's smoother now than it was for the first owner :happy feet: .

 

ab

 

PS: I donated my orbital buffer!

I think you might be a little confused. Claying and polishing with a DA buffer are two completely different things. Claying is ALWAYS done by hand and is for removing bonded contaminants from your paint surface. Polishing (either by hand or DA polisher) is done to remove various paint imperfections (ie, swirl marks, micro marring, etching, etc) by removing a very thin layer of clear coat. So claying will not replace the need for polishing. In fact, clay bar causes micro marring and it's always best to follow up with polishing to remove the paint imperfections left behind by the clay bar.

Yes the car came home from the dealer and on blocks for a month while I got the wheels chromed and a couple other mods

are you on s2ki.com?

If you get tired of break dust on the fronts use AP1 pads, little harder compound and very little dust

6 year 8 months and 101,000 miles all is good

I bought the car with the rear spoiler, just wanted a change. So last week added the OE wing, but not the CR diving board.

seeya

Bill

 

 

Nice, they look really good. Yup, I'm on s2ki as well, however I haven't been on there in awhile. Active on way too many forums I guess. Any other pics of your S2K?

Have contemplated on finding a used g35 that hasn't been beaten to death as my summer car, but having a hard time not buying a used corvette instead...

They are very solid cars. If you get one make sure you get an 07+ for a Sedan or an 08+ for a Coupe as both of them have the VQ35HR engine. Of course the VQ37HR is even better if you want to go newer. Nothing wrong with getting a Vette either.

If you have any questions on the G just let me know. I'm an Administrator over on g35driver.com as well

How do you like your G35?

Love it. It's a very competent sports sedan and is a lot of fun to drive also..........just in a very different way than the S2000.

Glad you got it cleaned up

 

I also have a 2005 S2000, Sliverstone love that car.

 

I LOVE mine as well. These cars are such a blast to drive, aren't they? Did you get your AP2 wheels chromed?

Here's a pic of my baby.

^ Awesome! Too bad that you forgot your mem card and couldn't take pics! I'm not sure about you, but I find a day of detailing very gratifying. A couple of beers and a good cigar really helps too!

Canuck,

 

My package of goodies just arrived from DI yesterday and I wanted to wash my MF towels with the solution I bought for them, but then it dawned on me... How do I use it? Do I just add the solution into the detergent section of my washer alone or with detergent too? Or maybe I add the MF cleaning solution to the pre-wash section? What do you suggest/

 

Thanks!

~Sac

Hey Sac, just put 1 oz of your CG detergent in the detergent section of your washer and you are good to go. If you have a large load of MF towels (which you probably won't have) use 2 oz of your CG detergent. Use warm/hot water and make sure you don't use a fabric softener.

Can I get some information on the difference between Optimum Opti™ Clean and the Optimum No-Rinse?

 

Not sure which I should buy.

Optimum No Rinse is a rinseless car wash product. It's perfect for those that live in apartments without access to a hose, wintertime washing, etc. You typically mix 1 oz into 1-2 oz of water in a bucket when washing your vehicle. It can also be used as a clay bar lubricant or as a quick detailer (1 oz ONR with 16 oz of water). It's definitely one of my favourite detailing products!!

Optimum Opti-Clean is a waterless wash product and is typically used to remove light dirt, dust, pollen, bird bombs, etc from your paint. It's a great quick detailer and has the necessary lubricants in it so that it will not harm your paint surface. My vehicles always have a waterless wash product and a couple of MF towels in the trunk.

Now why in the world would he stop shipping to Canada?

 

Here is the list of goodies I bought:

 

---------------------------------------------------------------------

Product Quantity Total Cost

---------------------------------------------------------------------

303 Aerospace Protectant - 16 oz 1 $9.74

Chemical Guys Maxi Suds II - 128 oz 1 $19.49

Chemical Guys Microfiber Wash Cleaning Deterg - 16 oz 1 $6.74

DI Accessories Sheepskin Wash Mitt 1 $7.49

DI Accessories Trigger Spray Bottle - 22 oz 1 $3.74

DI Microfiber Ultra Plush Two Sided Towel - 16" x 16" 4 $17.97

Grit Guard Grit Guard Insert - BLUE 1 $7.49

Lake Country Blue Grout Sponge 1 $4.49

Menzerna Power Lock Polymer Sealant - 16 oz 1 $22.49

Poorboy's World Bold 'n Bright Tire Gel - 16 oz 1 $9.74

Poorboy's World Natty's Red Paste Wax - 8 oz 1 $14.99

Poorboy's World Spray & Wipe (S&W) - 128 oz 1 $24.74

Stoner Invisible Glass - 19 oz 1 $4.49

---------------------------------------------------------------------

Subtotal: $153.60

Shipping: $0.00

Tax: $0.00

Total: $153.60

----------------------------------------------------------------

 

Mind you, these prices reflect the 25% off from DI's coupon code.

Now to wait for the right weekend with the right temperature to detail my Edge!

 

~Sac

Well done, that's a great list of products!

Thanks to CanuckG35 and all the other people here,

 

I just pulled the trigger on my first purchase of some REAL cleaning products for my car! I was initially reluctant to make the purchase because I have never spent so much on cleaning products for my car before (my shopping cart was worth just north of $200, which I guess is just "entry level for the pros!), anyway what helped push me over the edge (excuse the pun) and make the purchase was Detailed Image has a sale going on. If you use coupon code "Early25" by midnight (EST) on 11/7/11 you can get 25% off of your entire purchase (no minimum required)! Sorry for the late post on this, but I just made it myself last night,

 

But fret not, for those that still need to buy stuff from Detailed Image, their sale continues until tomorrow (but at less of a discount). Use code "Early20" for 20% off your purchase until midnight tonight or "Early15" for 15% off for purchases on 11/9/11 up till midnight (EST).

 

Shipping is free and I am expecting my package by next week Tuesday. I am looking forward in putting that deep, glossy, "wet" shine on my Edge's finish!

 

Thanks all!

~Sac AZN

That's awesome Sac! What did you end up purchasing from DI? Btw, George whom is the owner of DI, is absolutely fantastic to deal with. I used to get all of my supplies from him until he stopped shipping to Canada.

Soft is still a relative term. The paint isn't going to flake off like tissue paper if you touch it.

Umm, well of course it's not going to flake off if you touch it.

But today's paints are MUCH softer today than they were one decade ago, two decades ago, etc. Today's softer paints mean that it's MUCH easier to incur rock chips. That's why so many car owners get a clear bra installed on their vehicle.

Exactly!

 

It's not like paint is fragile. The chances of getting damaged paint anywhere but the front or the side mirrors outside of an accident is extremely minor and not worth the money or the hassle.

Actually, today's paint is rather fragile as they are all water based now due to environmental reasons. Water based paints are very much softer than the old oil based paints and are way more susceptible to rock chips.

I thought about a clear bra but feared that it wouldn't age well.

 

( Why is it that I can't help but think of my grandparent's plastic covered sofa? )

They actually age quite well when taken care of properly. They are a real life saver for your paint to guard against rock chips. I probably wouldn't get one if I leased the vehicle, but if you plan on keeping your vehicle for a some time, I would highly recommend one.

I'm curious to know what the professional detailers feel about PPF (paint protection film) like "Clear-Bra" and similar products. I have a Platinum White Edge and am concerned about any section of my car covered by it yellowing (over time) and how obvious it will become on the parts of the car that does not have the PPF on it. I think PPF makes good sense because it protects my car's finish, but is it worth the cost (I plan to have it professionally applied as opposed to DIY)? I have estimates to have most of my car protected for between $3700-$4200 (covers complete front bumper, FULL hood, both outside mirris, all FOUR doors, complete rear bumper, headlights and fenders).

 

Should I still need to be as meticulous with washing the car as I would without the PPF? Would the products you recommend for a car with PPF be any different?

 

I apologize if I am posting this in the wrong section, but I do want to get the opinions from the pros.

 

Thanks guys, I am amazed at the level of knowledge and patience you share on this forum.

~Sac AZN

Sac, I would definitely recommend getting a clear bra applied as they can be a real paint saver. Definitely get it done by a professional installer. Also, Xpel makes a great film cleaner that will prevent it from yellowing over time. Personally, I think getting the entire vehicle clear bra'd is a little overkill and very expensive. Most people just get the front bumper, hood, and mirrors done to protect against rock chips. IMHO, that's all that's really need and you'll save yourself a ton of money.

After you get it installed, let it cure for at least 3 days and then you can apply your favourite wax or sealant over top.

Cheers,

Shane

Thanks Canuck!

 

You've put some of my worries at ease. I was afraid by not doing things exactly so at the beginning, I'd regret it later - but at the same time, worried that I was biting off more than I could chew. It's a big step from driving through a gas station car wash to clay barring and sealing a new car for the first time! I've really learned a lot from your posts and the discussion around them. I feel so much more informed and better able to take care of our new Edge. Now, if it will just get here...

 

thanks again for all the info - wish you and your business were a litle closer! :D

You're very welcome! Any other questions just let me know.

Cheers,

Shane

^ Yep, that bad boy is definitely etched into your paint. Unfortunately it's rather common when left on your paint for too long. Adam, if you are able to pick up an OTC product like ScratchX you should be able to remove it. Btw, did you have any paint protection applied?

We've just ordered a 2012 Edge (Mineral Gray Metallic w/ Charcoal interior). In the past, I've been pretty lackadasical about taking care of the details of our car's appearances for the most part. Which means I've generally driven through a car wash (all the while suspecting it probably wasn't the best thing to do to a car finish). I'm going to try to change my bad habits :surrender: but will be taking baby steps.

 

I've read through this thread and have learned a lot. I also know how slow I am at (properly) washing a car - so when I think about washing/drying, clay baring, sealing, waxing....this seems like a weeklong process to me. And I'm surely going to need to drive the car at some point in that process - so I'd have to start over (if I hadn't made it past the sealing stage). Also, being new to the steps beyond washing - I'm a little nervous that I'll cause more damage than I would have by not doing anything! The other problem is that I'm guessing we won't be picking up until mid-December or so. :violin:

 

SO, I'm putting together my plan and wanted to get some clarifications and/or suggestions. It sounds like the first step is catch the dealer and not let them touch the vehicle any more than possible! Which leads to my first question - just out of curiosity, what do you do different if the dealer has already "detailed" a new vehicle?

 

So, we get the vehicle (yay!) and take it home. Wash it properly (two buckets, sheepskin pad, etc), dry it with MF towel. This is where my big question comes in. I see that this is where most people use the clay bar to remove even more stuff from the clearcoat - but I've also seen mention of using a product like IronX. Generally one after the other. I'm a little worried that I'll a)do some damage with the clay bar and b)the time involved in doing this step will make it harder to get everything done that I'll need to do. So, keeping in mind that I'm new to this taking care of the finish thing, is just using the IronX a decent option? Or is that defeating the purpose and asking for more problems?

 

My next question, I've seen mention of Power Lock and UPGP - is one easier to use than the other? more highly recommended? longer lasting? I'll be doing more research but didn't seem to get a feel one way or the other on this thread. Also, I've noticed that Opti-Coat is a permanent sealant - why would you not use this vs the ones you have to reapply every few months?

 

How important is waxing after sealing? I've noticed that you are supposed to wait 24 hours for sealant to cure - what if you don't wax after that?

 

I guess I'm just trying to put together a plan that will best protect the finish of our new Edge, while at the same time being realistic about my ability to do all the steps (time-wise) and do them properly.

 

Whew! That's a lot of questions! Thanks for any input - and thanks for all the good information on these boards!

(Does anyone else have to ocassionally remind themselves when reading about the "MF" towels that the poster isn't angry with the towels? :eek5: )

Lots of great questions. If I miss anything just let me know.

The reason why some of us do not let the dealership do their new car prep is because typically the person at the dealership doing the new car prep doesn't really know how to properly prep a vehicle and ends up doing more harm than good. I've had customers bring me their brand new vehicle after their dealer prepped it and the paint condition was horrible. Not saying that it's always the case with every dealership, but just a heads up nonetheless.

A mild claybar is typically used during a new car prep to remove all bonded surface contaminents from your paint that incurred during transit. Rail dust is a big culprit. When using a clay bar like Clay Magic's fine grade (and a good lubricant), you will have no issues doing any damage to your paint. Please keep in mind though that clay barring a new vehicle, while always recommended by detailers like myself, is not really something the average person needs to worry about. I don't want to discourage you from not doing it as I will always recommend it, but the majority of folks probably won't see a difference.

Regarding the use of Power Lock, it's as easy as it comes. Apply very thin layers of it, let it dry, and it wipes off like you were buffing air. One of the easiest products I've ever used. Regarding Opti-coat, I'll let richy answer that one as he as experience with it. Waxing after sealing is not important at all. Basically the only reason why some of us apply a carnuba wax over a sealant is for the added depth and gloss. Sealants are man made, and while they look very good, they do not provide the same depth and gloss to your paint that a natural carnuba does. So when people apply both a sealant and a carnuba, they getting the durability of a sealant and also the gloss of a carnuba. Having said that, the vast majority will love the look of a sealant just fine.

Any other questions, just let me know.

On a side note, I am going on vacation to Europe until the end of October and will not be around to answer any questions during that time. Richy has got you folks covered though.

Cheers,

Shane

I just bought a Red Candy Metallic Edge in August so this will be my first winter with it. Since my outdoor water is shut down for almost seven months a year and the roads are awfully salty in the winter (I live at the bottom of a hill), I will have no choice but to go to a car wash at some point. You all have me scared after reading these 13 pages and I fear doing the wrong thing. I guess the lesser of two evils would be a brushless type, right? Are there different types of brushless systems and any type in particular I need to avoid more than others? And how often would you recommend washing it in the snowy/icy salty months?

 

Sorry for such a stupid question. I just want to be sure I am doing the least amount of damage possible (I was leasing Chevy's for the past 15 years and had no issues ever using regular car washes - not that I would have cared much anyway since I never planned on keeping them, but this is a whole new ballgame for me now).

 

Thanks.

I couldn't possibly recommend Optimum No Rinse enough. It's a rinseless car wash product and is PERFECT for washing your vehicle in the winter months. If you have heavy salt and sand build up, take it to your local coin op and simply spray down your vehicle. Bring it home and wash it with ONR. It's a very safe way to keep your vehicle clean during the winter.

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-744800996428313622

Shane, we should really have a phone conversation about Duragloss. Their products are inexpensive, and work amazingly well. The owners are the most down to earth people you could ever meet and are both PHD Chemists. Eshine had DG 501 for 50% off a few weeks ago too. Here are just a few of their products you really, really should try:

DG 105 sealant

DG 601 Polish Bonding Agent

DG 951 Aquawax

DG 671 Swirl Remover (an amazing All in One product)

DG 501 (it is listed as a Marine Polish, but it's an amazing paint cleaner, not quite as strong correction as 671 but has great protection all on its own too)

DG 901 soap

 

Try those and you will be in love with the DG line. Honest to God, anyone I have ever sent their way has fallen in love with their line. I have stuck with it for years for a reason: it works well and is very reasonably priced! PM me for my phone # if you want to yack.

Rich, would love to have a phone conversation. I leave for Europe for a month on Sunday so if you have time to chat before then that would be great. I'll PM you for your phone number.

Cheers,

Shane

Shane, not with Duragloss Aquawax he won't. Have you ever used it? It's a polymeric sealant spray...yes, i know they call it "wax", but it isn't.

Good to know Richy. I haven't used the DG Aquawax, however my comment was based solely on actual waxes. It''s kinda like Zaino calling their Z2/Z5 products polishes when then are simply sealants. Sigh. Btw, what are your thoughts on the Aquawax?

EDIT: I just read your thoughts on the Aquawax.

Canuck, will using any of these quick detail or spray wax products effect the bonding ability of a future coat of Zaino Z2. Lets say I started using a carnuba spray wax between washes. Would I then need to make sure to strip all the carnuba off my Edge before applying a coat of Z2? I'm not trying to get the ultimate shine, I just want to make sure I'm using the right product between my spring and fall Zainoings.

Yes it will. Sealants will not bond to carnubas, but carnubas will bond to sealants. If using Zaino Z2, you won't need to apply that anymore than 2 times a year.....3 at the extreme most to your Edge. So the couple of times a year that you do apply your Z2, simply wash your car with Dawn to strip off all remaining wax and then reapply your Z2. Let it cure for 24 hours and then you are ready to apply your carnuba of choice over top.

Been using Zaino for years but I'm just now learning about waterless wash and quick detail sprays. I've tried Griots waterless wash and Meguires Final Inspection. I like the Griots but did not care for the FI. My question: What is a good quick detail spray, available locally, to use between my 3 to 4 "Zainoings" each year? Will using a certain type of detail spray effect the bonding ability of the next coat of Zaino? Is there a spray wax I can use that won't effect my next coat of Zaino? What about Griots Speed Shine? Also, I've been thinking about trying Duragloss 105 instead of Zaino Z2.

The only decent QDs that I've seen over the counter is Megs. Virtually all of the top detailing brands aren't available over the counter.

There are basically two different types of QDs, and you should know which type you are buying. There are QDs that are meant to be used on a clean paint surface (ie,Zaino Z6) and there are QDs that can be used on a lightly dirty paint surface (ie, Poorboys Spray & Wipe).

QDs are not all created equal, however in general they can elevate the shine of your paint, reduce the amount of dust, pollen, etc that sticks to your paint, allows you to remove smudges, fingerprints, etc as well. And most importantly, they extend the life of whatever paint protection you are using. If you are using a QD like Poorboys S&W, it will allow you to remove light dirt, dust, pollen, bird bombs, etc. This type of QD can be used safely on a lightly dirty paint surface because it has lubricants in it that prevent you from scratching your paint surface. They drastically reduce the number of times you need to wash your car as you can perform quick and easy maintenance in between full washes.

My favourite two QDs are Poorboys S&W and Optimum Instant Detailer & Gloss Enhancer. If you are looking for a spray carnuba to be layered over your Z2, definitely take a look at Optimum Car Wax.