CanuckG35

In the case of my MKX, in spite of it being black, it did not benefit from polishing and I would have been happy to do so. I cannot recommend the IronX stongly enough though. You will NOT need to clay if you use it, and some clay can instill marring which then would require polishing.

Yep, depending on what clay you use and how aggressive it is, it can definitely cause marring. I use Clay Magic's fine grade on all of my new car preps and marring is never an issue.

^ Definitely make sure you clay bar it before sealing.

Just picked up my new 2012 Edge Limited (Black with Black Leather). I honestly don't think I will have the time to put in to do the new car prep work as described here so I am going to go the detail shop route. I have a few recommendations for local detail places, but wanted to see from the professionals here what I should look for in a "new car package" - is there a list of things that absolutely should be done, nice to haves, and great additions?

 

Thanks in advance...

This is typically what a new car prep contains when taking it to a professional detailer.

• Exterior:
   
  
  • Removal of shipping plastic
  • Hand Wash
  • Clay bar decontamination
  • Choice of sealant or wax
  • All plastic, rubber and vinyl dressed and UV protected
  • Wheels cleaned and sealed
  • Chrome polished and sealed
  • Tires dressed

Interior Includes:

• Removal of shipping plastic
• Interior and trunk fully vacuumed
• Removal of debris
• All plastic, rubber and vinyl dressed and UV protected
• Leather seating cleaned and conditioned
• A/C vents and filter de-odorized
• Door jambs cleaned and waxed

Since you already have your Edge, I'm sure all of the shipping plastic has already been removed. Anyways, this should give you an idea of what a proper new car prep consists of. Any other questions, just let me know.

Did you miss this part?

 

 

 

I say they're fine. The detailer says they're not. You folks decide for yourself.

I'm not trying to be difficult here. We are in a detailing section here and I want to provide the best possible advice to fellow members. As a detailer, I see a lot of various paint conditions pass my shop, and for various reasons. The absolute number one reason is improper washing habits, with the vast majority being car washes. Like I mentioned earlier, if they satisfy your needs, by all means keep using them. But when someone is looking for advice in a detailing section, I want to provide the best advice possible. There is absolutely no professional on the planet that will endorse the use of any type of touch car wash system. But if you are happy using them, that's all that matters at the end of the day.

Thanks for the quick reply. Is there a retailer that carries this in Canada or online ordering only? Do apply this stuff right after the vehicle is washed ie: wet or wait until its dry?

 

Spiff

Sorry, I missed that you are in Canada like myself. You can purchase the stuff at www.eshine.ca. They are fantastic to deal with! Once your vehicle is washed and the trim pieces are dry, that's when you use the stuff. Very simple application as well. Any other questions just let me know.

Poorboys Trim Restorer works fantastic. I am never without the stuff for my business.

http://www.detailedimage.com/Poorboys-World-M1/Trim-Restorer-P35/16-oz-S1/

Yep and I've never seen any scratches in my paint in the sun. I'm not saying they aren't there, but they're certainly not visible to the casual observer.

 

I think the cloth strip type automatic car washes are relatively safe and a reasonable alternative to hand washing for most consumers.

You are blessed with having a white Edge. It's 10x harder to see paint imperfections on light coloured vehicles with the naked eye. Dark colours are obviously a different story. These types of automatic car washes are not relatively safe whatsoever for your paint. The general public for the most part however doesn't really care as their vehicle is nothing more than transportation from A to B. But since we are in a detailing section, I can't recommend enough that people stay away from them. The picture that I originally posted in this thread was a customer that regularly used a touch car wash. As you can see, it's in pretty bad shape when under a lamp. White vehicles would have the same degree of damage, but it's much more difficult to see unless you have it under a lamp.

I go to a place that uses the cloth strips mentioned and it has been fine. I am not convinced hand washing is foolproof. Watch for awhile and you will see someone drop the rag on the ground and wash the car with dirt and rocks on it. When I was a little kid grandpa taught me how to wash a car and rule #1 was if you drop the rag toss it aside and get a clean one. Mechanical washes also clean the underneath and you can't do that in the driveway.

Unless you are washing your vehicle inside a bubble, no washing method is 100% fool proof. Having said that, there are certain methods use and certain tools used that will drastically minimize the amount of paint imperfections caused to your paint. Using a touch car wash system that uses cloths dragged over your paint is most definitely not one of them. Why? Because these cloths that are running over your paint are not releasing any dirt whatsoever, and basically dragging it all over your paint surface. If you are happy with these types of car washes that's totally fine, but don't think for a second that they are not hurting your paint.

It's a good thing that I don't drive around with a 1000 watt halogen lamp then. Seriously - if I can't see the damage then I don't care.

If you don't care, that's fine. I am just trying to give some sound advice to the OP and show how bad a touch car wash with brushes can really mess up your paint.

I've had good luck with the type that uses the long strips of cloth moving back and forth. Never had a problem even on a dark red lincoln LS.

Put your paint under a 1000 watt halogen lamp and you will think differently. There is absolutely no way that a touch car wash system will not do your paint harm. Trust me, I see it regularly in my business.

First and foremost, DO NOT ever take your Edge through a car wash with brushes. They are absolute DEATH to your paint.

The right hand side of this panel is what it will make your paint look like.

And don't even take it to a touchless car wash either unless you can help it. They use very harsh detergents that will strip away any paint protection you have applied.

Take a read through the thread below as it will answer pretty much all of your questions.

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/index.php?/topic/5535-ask-a-professional-detailer/

Cheers and congrats on the purchase.

So the work has been complete, and lucky for the woman, I am satisfied with the outcome and she has avoided an insurance claim.

OK...have to ask. How hot was this woman? Oh and good job cleaning that up.

LOL, unfortunately not hot at all.

She was lucky to hit someone who can do the fix. But lame to be hit at all.

Yep, she was very lucky. I'll be contacting her this evening to let her know she has nothing to worry about insurance wise.

Out doing an errand yesterday, a woman went a little too far past the stop sign in her Ford Escape. She didn't see me whatsoever and proceeded to back up. The damage could of been so much worse though. The woman and I exchanged business cards and I told her that I was a detailer and would try to correct this myself before I would even consider going through insurance. She was really apologetic so I would rather try and fix it myself and spare her the insurance claim.

Time to get out the Flex and see how much can be removed. :-\

After two passes with the Flex using a yellow pad and Menzerna Power Gloss. The vast majority of imperfections have been removed, however I will be working on it further and the plan is to use a white pad with Menzerna Power finish and then finish up with another white pad and Menzerna Super Finish! Hopefully I'll be satisfied, but I'm a tough one to satisfy when it comes to paint.

^ +1 to everything above. Also, try using Stoner's Invisible glass instead of Windex, that stuff rocks.

Heck yes, I love PowerLock. I've tried just about everything, and have boxes full of car care products that I don't use anymore and are probably expired by now, but I keep coming back to the Menzerna Power Lock. It's easy to apply and creates an awesome look and finish, and it lasts a pretty long time.

The Power Lock is sooooo easy to use. Wiping it off is just like buffing air, as I'm sure you've noticed. Their previous sealant, Full Molecular Jacket, was even a little bit easier to use. Depending on your washing habits and environmental conditions, you'll see at least 4 months durability and 6 months isn't out of the question either.

I must say, this is a great thread you have going here Canuck. I have read the entire thing in the last couple of days. I used to detail cars in high school (many years ago) and am pretty picky about my cars, but I have learned a lot reading these posts. I have only had my Kona blue Edge for about 5 days now and we love it. I did come up with a list of questions as I read that hopefully you guys can help me with. Here goes:

 

1) I see wheels and tires were addressed recently. My Edge has the 20" plastic chrome wheels. I'm a little irritated that I didn't realize that I paid $900 for plastic coated wheels until last night, but it is what it is. So to clean them better than soap and water you recommend P21S wheel cleaner? I typically use Eagle 1 All Wheel and Tire cleaner. It has worked well for me in the past. Does anyone know if this will hurt the plastic?

 

2) What is the proper technic for applying sealant? I know you said to put it on by hand. We always used to apply wax in a swirl motion, but I don't think that is recommended anymore. Is it the same for the sealant? I like the idea only only applying it twice a year and having good procetion the entire time between applications.

 

3) How long is a clay bar good for? I have the Meguires kit that I have used on my other vehicles and it works great. I store it in a small plastic container. Just wondering how long it's good for

 

4) How do you keep wax or sealant out of the emblems and moldings on the car? I always have a problem with that. My previous cars were light colored so it wasn't a huge deal, but with this dark blue car I think it will show up petty good.

 

5) The Optimum No Rince product you talk about sounds wonderful, but I guess I haven't quite figured out how you use it. Is it used just like normal car wash soap or with the soap or what.

 

6) How do you care for your MF towels? I assume machine wash with no fabric softener?

 

Again, thanks for all the great tips and tricks. Keep them coming. I'm looking forward to ordering some stuff and making the Edge look really good before winter.

 

Thanks,

Scott

Hey Scott, I'd be happy to answer some of your questions.

1. I use P21S as I have found it to be the best wheel cleaner I've used. It's powerful, easy to use, and safe for all wheels. If you are happy with your current product, by all means continue using it.

2. The proper technique when applying sealants by hand (and waxes for that matter) is the straight line method and not in a circular motion. In a perfect world where everything is 100% clean, it really wouldn't matter. But nothing is ever 100% clean. What I mean by that is that your garage floor is never perfectly clean, the air is never free from contaminants, and it's possible that your applicator pad isn't 100% clean either. So with that out of the way, we'll assume that dust stirred up from your garage floor, airborne contaminants exist, etc. These abrasive particles things will obviously scratch your paint. So why the straight line method instead of the circular method? With the circular method, circular scratches can be seen in just about any angle, any light, and any height. With straight line scratches, you have to be at the right angle, the right light, and also the right height. This is a trick my mentor taught me a number of years ago.

3. Depends. A claybar's lifespan will completely depend on how much bonded contaminants it is removing from your paint. The dirtier it gets, the quicker you throw it away. Keep rolling it around in your hands until you find a clean spot. But when you can't find a clean piece, it's time to chuck it. And if you ever drop a piece on the grow, always throw it away.

4. I tape all of the emblems, mouldings around windows, mirrors, etc.

5. ONR is a rinseless car wash. I use this a lot in the winter time when the outdoor taps are froze. If you are in a place with water restrictions, it would also come in handy. It's a fantastic product, and I'd never be without it. Here is a demo of how to use it.

http://video.google....800996428313622

6. I use Chemical Guys MF Detergent. Just make sure you do not use a fabric softener.

7. For getting rids of bugs, I use Poorboys Bug Squash. Relatively inexpensive and works great.

Edited for being tired and fixing a bunch of spelling mistakes.

Alrighty then. Thanks for the info. Although I still doubt whether the average person would be able to notice the difference.

I actually think that the average person would notice the difference. The issue is that virtually everyone doesn't do a side by side comparison to actually see the difference. What you don't see you don't know.

So what is the difference, in scientific terms? Have you done a A/B test to compare them side by side on the same vehicle? I find it hard to believe there is any noticeable difference although I certainly don't doubt that some product mfr would claim that.

In scientific terms, different coloured oils are added to different waxes. For example, coconut oil is widely used in waxes for lighter coloured vehicles whereas montan wax which is jet black is used frequently in waxes formulated for darker colours.

I have every version of Dodo Juice’s soft waxes for my business and after doing some tests last year on my own vehicle I can definitely tell the difference. I used both Orange Crush and Light Fantastic on the hood of my red S2000 and I could clearly tell the difference. Was the difference between the two night and day? No, but the side with the Orange Crush certainly had a deeper, glossier red look to it. The subtle difference using a carnuba formulated to your colour of vehicle is well worth it IMO.

Great job, it looks fantastic! The Power Lock is great stuff isnt' it?

There is no difference between paint colors. Protection is protection, shine is shine. Black just shows swirl marks more easily.

Actually, there is. A lot of carnubas are formulated for either dark or light coloured vehicles.

Thanks for the heads up. Searched and found them. Although, I beleive the threads would apply to any paint color. Was looking for specific suggestions for black vehicles, if there are any.

Talking strictly carnubas, a couple of fantastic ones formulated for darker colours are Natty's Blue from Poorboys World and Dodo Juice's Blue Velvet or Purple Haze. Natty's Blue, especially at the price, is one of the best carnubas for darker colours. The Dodo juice is a little more expensive but are exceptional carnubas.

Ladybell, just read your PM. Figured I would respond here instead.

Can you see some positive results polishing by hand? Yes you can. Is it hard work? You betcha. Are the results anywhere close to those with a machine. No. Basically your doing it by hand you can't generate enough heat to properly break a polish down. Having said that, if you are looking to fix up a couple of small areas on your paint, polishing by hand can be acceptable. If you are looking to get your entire vehicle polished, I wouldn't even think about doing it by hand.

Like richy mentioned, it's virtually impossible to damage your paint with a random orbital.

What a great thread!!! I didn't realize how poorly I was treating by baby (and it has only been 2 washes in...). I have had my 2011 Black Sport for a couple weeks now and have not been impressed with my efforts. I was used to a silver car that showed little imperfections but man does this black show everything. My first wash was with a microfiber wash towel, 1 bucket, and a terry cloth towel. My 2nd was with the 2 bucket system, a microfiber mit, and a shammy towel. Big fan of the 2 bucket system after seeing the dirt left in the rinse bucket, but I gotta find a new drying towel and think I am going to order the recommended waffle weave from DI. Is one enough to dry the whole suv or do I need two?

 

Also what is the best exterior window cleaner? It seemed like as I was drying them that there was a film on them that wouldn't come off.

 

I plan on doing a real detailing this fall in preparation for the harsh winter months of Cleveland, OH. After reading this thread I am pretty excited about it.

Good to hear you switched to the two bucket method.

I would recommend getting two MF waffle weave towels from DI. Sheeting the water off of your paint drastically reduces the amount of water on your paint, but I still use at least two waffle weaves.

Hands down the best glass cleaner is Stoner's Invisble glass.