iceman33

Well, count me in on this...The smell of burnt oil only lasts a minute or two and then nothing for a while...In my case, there is no visible smoke, just the smell.. Looks like a trip to the FORD dealer once they re-open after the holidays..

quote I also purchased the same set of Brush Guards...Not an issue installing them - about 30 minutes, only 4 bolts...Certainly adds more "muscle" to the car. Looking for a set of lights - PIAA 540's, which I'll install once Winter is over. Should look good with these lights.

Krown is popular up here in Canada...However, I use a local chain in Quebec called "Metropolitan Rustproofing" --> http://www.antirouille.com/en/ Their product is Mineral Oil based with some additives...I service all of my vehicles annually (in the Fall) for about $80 and I have been extremely satisfied. I also own a 1997 Pathfinder that has been serviced annually - 10 years, and there is virtually NO rust under the carriage. My doors are like new (typically here is where the rust is more noticeable). And tks to this procedure, removing bolts, screws, etc..is a piece of cake.. You have to keep in mind that in Quebec, the city and transport ministry ENJOY using SALT/CALCIUM on the roads like there is no tomorrow. What I also do prior to "shooting" my cars with oil, is that I use a Electric Pressure Washer to remove any soil/dirt etc..from the bottom of the car, around the fenders, bumpers, etc..I make sure that the surface is clean, wait a day or two to ensure it is properly dry, and then "shoot" it with Oil. I hope this helps..

The front 3 plugs are easy to access...However, the 3 other plugs on the backside of the engine (if looking from the front) are a pain.. The Upper Intake Manifold will need to be removed - 6 bolts on the Upper Manifold, one(1) on the throtle body (support bracket towards the bottom of the throtle body) and one(1) behind the Upper Intake (once again to a support bracket near the firewall). All of these bolts (8 in total) are 8mm.. You will also need to remove the following: - Air Intake pipe - Vacuum line that is connected to the intake pipe right hand side then goes into the firewall - disconnect the Mass Air Meter connector (on the intake pipe, next to the filter box) - Valve cover hose that goes into the Air intake pipe (Hot Oil fumes) - PCV hose on the backside of the Upper Intake Manifold...You really need to reach for this one and most importantly - There is a connector (2 wires) to the PCV (behind the Upper Intake Manifold) which is not easy to access, but with some patience you can get it out. That is it...Please be EXTREMELY careful when removing the Upper Intake Manifod NOT TO DAMAGE the gaskets (3 pairs) that sit between the Upper and Lower Manifolds if you intend in re-using them (in the case your car is still new..) The Gaskets sit in place in the Upper Manifold, they won't fall or move since they are "nudged" into the Intake. BTW, the gaskets are light Green in color. If you decide to change them, better make sure your local Ford Dealer has them in stock..They run about $8 a piece... I recently replaced the stock plugs and went thru this exercise. Looks harder than what it is.. I replaced the stock plugs with Bosch Platinum Iridium Fusion (Advanced Auto Parts --> $9 each). These plugs have a longer life than the standard plugs + I should see "some" improvement in my gas mileage.. REMEMBER to always USE Anti-Seize on the plugs and any bolts that you have removed..You will be glad you did this in the future... The OEM plugs do not have any anti-seize on them, and since they are "long life", chances are that they will seize inside your Engine Head...There is a danger when removing a seize plug that the thread will be damaged since it is made of Aluminum, and this is one road you do not want to travel. So ALWAYS use Anti-Seize..Your mechanic will Thank you..

It's quite simple... With the switch in the OFF position as a reference, look at the 3 and 9 o'clock on switch housing. There are tabs that can be depressed using a small flat screwdriver when inserted at these 2 positions. In reality, all you need to do is get one tab and with minimal pulling, then entire switch housing will come right out.

BlueLtd, I have been in contact with a FORD dealer and they are perplexed on how to accomplish this since when they look at the wiring (shop's manual), all of the lighting go thru a single module. This module - forgot what he called it, controls the lights inside and outside of the vehicle. They (FORD dealer) have sent an e-mail to FORD Tech support on how to disable the DDL...Hopefully, they'll get an answer soon. However, if you have done this or know someone who has, do you have some information on HOW this can be accomplished..? BTW, I am also Canadian and the FORD dealers here in Canada do NOT want to touch this since it is against the law to have a vehicle without DDL. In the US, it's a complete different story... As to WHY I want to disable the DDL ? --> I have my fog's hotwire to be ON all of the time (of course I can still turn them on at a flip of a swich..)..So it defeats the purpose of having both DDL and Fog's ON. It a matter of taste --> FOG's for me. P.S. In old days, FORD had a module located near the fender that controlled the DDL. All that you needed to do was to unplug this module....I also have a Pathfinder (1997) which has an equivalent module. The Wife drives a 2002 Honda Odissey. Honda made it "smarter" as there are 2 fuses to remove, and voila, no more DDL.