Jump to content

cwatkins

Edge Member
  • Posts

    16
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

About cwatkins

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

cwatkins's Achievements

Newbie

Newbie (1/14)

  1. I have a 35w Morimoto 4300k kit from TRS and I get flashed by people thinking I have my high-beams on (obviously I don't). And they are aimed exactly how the halogens were. I went with the wiring harness as well. I'm from Canada so I had to have Ford re-program my DRL to my turn indicators with their IDS.
  2. I can confirm Norm's account. I had the same thing done. Had to fight with them a little bit. They didn't believe me. You just have to go in with the confidence you know what's going on. It's when you're not sure, and they're not sure, then they don't really want to do anything. Tell them if they want to continue servicing your vehicle, they'd better give it a try. It's literally only a few minutes of work. Nothing illegal about it. Your DRL's will then behave as if the vehicle came with HID OEM from the factory. Norm: I didn't know you couldn't go back to standard DRL (headlights). How did you discover that? -Cody
  3. Buggers. Shouldn't have to pay for such a quick thing (literally 2 minutes right guys?) Only Ford can do this. You cannot download any software to do this. It's integrated into Ford's internal service computer network. Ie. They plug your car in and it communicates with Ford and verifies your vehicle settings etc. It sounds like it's officially called "IDS".
  4. When you're in next, ask the most senior (and knowledgeable) service tech or representative to turn on your DRL's. All they do is have to plug in their Ford issued laptop to your ODB port, load you car profile, and change one button to on.
  5. In Canada Ford uses the Motorcraft Synthetic Blend, nothing out of the usual. Not $120 worth that's for sure. I JUST had mine serviced at the Dealer. I think it was $35 for a #2 service + shop supplies and taxes. The total was less than normal because I provided my own Mobile 1 5w20. (6 quarts = 1 big jug + 1 additional quart). Like mentioned above, this can be had from US Walmart for as little as $30. And I service mine every 6 months regardless of mileage.
  6. Just wanted to let everyone know how easy it was to get my DRL settings changed in order to install HID without having to use a canceller. It took a bit of arguing with the service guys (two separate service advisors said they can't do it, it's illegal). I finally got them to cave in by reinforcing the fact I don't want them to turn DRL off but instead change them to the inner signal markers like all of the Limited's have. I even suggested we go out on the lot and take a look at a Limited to show them. Anyway, he finally caved (I think he wanted to prove me wrong!). So he went in the back, grabbed a laptop, we walked out to my vehicle parked in front of the service department. He plugged the laptop in, turned the ignition on, the laptop verified the vehicle information, and then under the Exterior/Lighting menu,in the second menu option, it allows you to change this. Changing it did the trick (note the first menu option is disable DRL which is ILLEGAL). But the second menu option was the trick! Now driving around, my DRL use the inner signal (amber) markers instead of the low-beams. Now I'm ready for HID install!
  7. JSR84, assuming you're using aftermarket HID, the problem is in Canada, Ford Edge uses Low-beam (modified) for DRL. The low beams run at a lower alternating voltage, and will mess with your HID ballasts. You need to take it to your dealer, ask them extremely nicely, and they'll plug in their special laptop computer to your car, the software verifies your VIN, and then in the "Exterior Lighting" menu, you'll see the first option is Daytime Running Enabled/Disabled. You do not want this, you want the SECOND option in the menu below Daytime Running Lights. This second option allows you to switch your DRL to your inner turn light markers (this is how the Edge comes from the factory if you have OEM HID lights). I can confirm the above works. I just had it done today. It takes literally 3 minutes for them to do. At first they refused saying it was illegal, until I insisted that it's completely safe and we're not turning DRL off, just switching them to the inner turn markers. You can even take them out to the lot, and find a new Edge with OEM HID, and show them how it uses the inner turn markers. -Cody
  8. Had this happen once on my 2012 when it was pretty new. Same thing. Came off freeway and had to stop on the offramp due to backed up traffic at the light. Then when I hit the accelerator to start moving, it was reving pretty high like stuck in first. Had to kick it to neutral and back and it worked fine. Never happened since. I took it to ford that day on the way home. The hooked it up and had an engineer from head office dial in and check out the transmission I assume as they ran it on the dyno. No problems. They said the results looked like it just came off the assembly line.
  9. Did you hear back from them on this? Edit: Looks like they've updated their website to correct this. I might order these. Hopefully none of this fiddling-around with trying to get it to fit nonsense.
  10. Has anyone tried the Morimoto 9012 kit from TheRetrofitSource? http://www.theretrofitsource.com/product_info.php?products_id=36171 Or is everyone still using the 9006 kits and trimming the tab? I'm looking to buy, but not having seen anyone mention the 9012 kit makes me wonder why not.
  11. saynt, are you saying even with the retrofit source wiring harness, you STILL needed a capacitor for DRL mode? Otherwise the DRL's would cause the relay's to go cycle on and off?
  12. Shouldn't the dual relay wiring harness fix this issue? I'm looking to install the TRS 35watt kit on my 2012 SEL and I was just going to get it with the Wiring harness. Why would a DRL module be needed? Even with the reduced DRL voltage, it should still activate the relay's and turn the lights on. The only reason for the flickering lights is the reduced voltage due to the DRL being on. Can any Canadians confirm that with the DRL's we should only need the wiring harness? No DRL module, etc. (I also assume Edge's don't have the dashboard alert if it detects a burned out halogen). Thanks!
  13. Hi, thanks for all the replies. Since you're on the ball with all of this, what's your best suggestion to get some real EQ out of the non-Sony head unit in an Edge? Are there any options. I cannot stand Bass/Mid/Treble. I would love 7 or 8 band. You'd think it's all software based, so why doesn't ford put a more flexible EQ in there to process the audio better! Also, if down the road I put a sub in the back, where's the best/safest place to tap into both the left and right channels for a Re-Q?
  14. Are you saying put the x-overs in the kick panels? Splice the x-over into the body harness in either kick panel and then run a line up to the A-pillar? Now I'm assuming that the audio wiring is easily accessible in the harness back there? Thanks.
  15. Hi everyone, Just wondering if anyone has added factory looking tweeters to the A pillars on a recent SEL? Since it didn't come with the Sony system, I'm looking at adding new speakers with front components. I'm just wondering: i) Can the front A pillars be ordered from ford with the built in tweeter grills? I don't want externally mounted tweeters. ii) Is there a return cable in the standard SEL wiring harness from the door speaker up to the tweeter location? If not, how is one expected to get a cable from the door speaker x-over up to the tweeter? Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...