jpeckinp

That is a pile of BS. If that was true then no manufacture would use synth oil at all. I can think of numerous cars that are factory with 100% synth oil Now do you want to rethink your answer.

Let me help you Lex. Lee, no I didn't buy a flasher relay and I didn't use the resistor pack either. The fast click doesn't bother me and after a few weeks you don't even notice it anymore.

I don't know why I said '07 I meant '08. I have an '08 so why would I care about the '07.

http://www.engadget.com/2008/05/27/video-m...then-blows-our/ Anybody know if this will be upgradeable to the '07s? I guess I could call my friend that designs these things and find out.

Yeah they look just fine. They reflect good also.

I've never found them on Ebay cheaper until they are out of date. Now you might find it on a P2P somewhere for free.

The new update to the Nav is up for order and delivery this month.. http://www.navigation.com/is-bin/INTERSHOP...AllProducts=YES

The quick flash doesn't bother me any so I didn't use either fix. What you will have to do is remove the flasher relay and get a relay that can be used with LED's. The relay is up under the dash just turn on your turn signal and find the one clicking, pull it then go to the local auto parts store and ask for a relay that works with LED's that match the old relay pin layout. I looked online for a part number but found nothing. I guess you could go to the dealership and ask them.

You need to have a load resistor or a relay that is meant for LED lights. You can find them here: http://www.superbrightleds.com/tail-brake-turn.html

None here and I didn't use a new relay or a resistor pack.

I just pulled the map lights down pulled out the light and plugged the new one in. Took less than 1 min to do. Mine was tight and took some maneuvering but it came down in one piece and didn't feel like it was going to break.

Pull

Did you check to see what it would have looked like if you didn't sand the diffuser? Do you think it might have been brighter?

Just found some new LEDs that we all need for our Edge's http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WTkX-2faAr4 You will need a youtube account to see these, for some reason they consider this adult content. I have seen much worse on children's daytime TV.

My thoughts exactly.

The map light is a pain to get out but with a little wiggling it will come out. I have thought about going to the stealership and finding out how much the puddle light modules are and buying two and modifying them.

This might work for our Festoon bulb dome light problem. http://www.oznium.com/led-dome

Here is what I bought from Superbrightleds.com Brake Lights: 3157x25 Red X2 Reverse Lights: 921x12 Cool White X2 Map Lights: WLEDx6 Cool White X2 Plate Lights: WLEDx6 Cool White X2 F Turn Signal: 3157x25 Amber X2 Rear Marker: WLEDx6 Red X2 Here is where the problem starts. Sylvania and Ford say 2825 (W5W) is in the front map lamps and rear courtesy lamp but I can tell you on my Edge the front map lamps are 2825 but every thing in the back is a festoon bulb including the courtesy lamp. Now according to the superbright site all 3 digit lights should be able to be replaced with a WLED series light well if the 578 series is a festoon bulb then it obviously can't be replaced with a WLED series. The only other problem I had was the 921's don't fit into the socket very tight so I had to do a little cutting on the LED case to get it in but I resealed the internals with some silicone to keep them water tight.

I put LED's in all of the lights that I could yesterday and it looks great. The only lights you can't change to LED are the puddle lamps and that is because that is a sealed module. The LED's look really cool if you get the cool white for the dome/map lights in the front, it reflects off the brushed bezel on the center console. I have to but some festoon lamps for the rear dome and the side light in the rear. The list on the Sylvania site doesn't list these lights unfortunately.

I just found out this weekend that a friend of mine is on the engineering team for the Sync unit at Continental. I think it is Class 1 myself because when I drop off my wife at work I am at the other end of her parking lot before I am told that the phone has been disconnected. But to be sure I will ask him Saturday when I see him.

I wonder how surprised they were when they found out those weren't real chrome wheels. How good of a part of Brooklyn are you in?

35w

Really? I'll have to take a second look I don't remember seeing anything. The wife has the car today, so I'll check tomorrow.

Ok here are a few pics of my Edge with 4300k kit. 1. This is a straight on shot. If you notice the passenger side has just a small tint of yellow compared to the driver side. 2. This is from 25ft the top of the light line is at 40" on the wall. 3. This is about 8ft from the wall, again you can see a slight yellow tint on the passenger side. The post in the middle helps separate the lights. 4. This is showing the passenger side mount of the ballast. I tied it to the washer fluid bottle. It is very hard to find good tie off points so I didn't take one of the driver side at this time since I am going to try and find a better spot for it later. I know you probably wanted a shot of the cap/relay mount but I wasn't able to get a good angle to show it well. Sorry. The installation is pretty easy on the Edge since it is very easy to get to the lights. The only problem that I really had with the set was a mistake from the vendor not including the relay harness with the cap pre-installed, after that was figured out things were great. Some things I don't like about the way the kit is manufactured. 1. It would be nice if there was some kind of bracket or mounting holes on the ballast, just using the tie strips the ballast can still move around. I haven't seen any other kits that are built with this either so I guess there is no way around that at this time. 2. All of the extra parts, I have a boat load of screws that are in no way mentioned in the instructions, and the extra wires??? I think they are meant for lights that you have two power connections for and have to cut a hole in the back of the light housing. Again nothing about these in the instruction manual. Thats about it for what I don't like, now for the capacitor fix. The instructions from Chad's vendor says to use a 470uf 35v Electrolytic capacitor in parallel with the relay. I used a 1500uf 35v and it works just fine for this application. The main part is to at least use a 25v cap and above 470uf, so if you used a 680, 1000 or a 1500 you should be fine. The reason is the Edge lights are a pulsed 12v and by not using a cap the relay will sound like an electric razor because it switches so fast, but by using the cap you are basically adding a small battery on the line to keep the voltage at 12v long enough for the next pulse from the junction box to keep the relay switched on. The 1500uf holds a charge just a fraction of a second longer than the 470uf is the only difference. In all I am happy with the kit and the lights. This was my first HID set and I used 4300k I would think the 6000k set would look just fine also, maybe if I was to do it again I might use a 6000k just o give it a try. Now for my next mod. I plan on switching all of the other lights to LED's. I have already done the license plate lights on the back and I like the look of that so I want to do the rest.

If these are "true" chrome and not the clad plated plastic caps they offered at the first of the model I would hate to see what they are charging for them.