Ungo

I usually just buy jugs of concentrated Simple Green. I rinse it off first, mix up a batch, pour it on and use a scrub brush to get the dirty spots. Let it sit for awhile, rinse, and repeat if you didn't get it all. One bad winter my front mats were absolutely destroyed so I dumped a bunch of Simple Green in the bathtub, rinsed off what I could from the mats, and put them in the tub to soak. They bend a little to get them all the way in but always go back to their original form after they are out.

So I got a question from someone in my Inbox and they stated the original You Tube video was taken down. I found a new video and a set of instructions. This process still works for me but I still have to do it every month or so. OR if you want to just break your switch this video shows you how to...I don't know if I'm ready for that kind of commitment yet. Okay. Watch this YouTube Video from the start until about 1:40 in. Obviously don't break the piece like he does if you watch the whole video The video shows you how to get to the little white switch that causes all the problems. After getting to that point in the video I usually take a can of Break Cleaner for cars (which I purchased on Amazon) and spray the little white latch pretty heavy and into the slot above it. Then I take a screwdriver, or anything similar, and push the latch up and down a few times. I let it sit for about 10 minutes. After it sits I take a can of electrical contact sprayer (Amazon as well) and use it on the same white switch and i'll shoot a little into the slot above it as well. I usually move the white switch up and down as well with the screwdriver. For both of these sprays you DO NOT have to use the whole can. Just make sure the switch and above it is saturated. After you let it sit for about 10 minutes and are ready to close the door, pull the inside door handle and it will reset the metal part that you push aside (they show you in the video) Sometimes this process doesn't fix it right away because all the components are still drying. For me the switch begins to act normal again the following day and I will usually work perfectly for a month or two before I have to do it again. It isn't a permanent fix unfortunately but seems to last longer during the summer when its hot outside. I've also purchased those thin pipe cleaners (the real ones-not the colorful kids kind), soaked it in the brake cleaner, and pushed it up into that spot the white switch is in. When I do that sometimes the pipe cleaner comes back filthy. So my guess is just dust and grime build up in that area and prevent the switch from moving properly. Hope that helped! -Chris

I just noticed my car looks like the Terminator with that damage around its "eye"

Well folks...I was involved in an accident. My 2011 Ford Edge Limited may be laid to rest. I'll find out sometime next week if they will fix it or total it. I was in the East Bound lanes, driving straight, and going about 30 mph approaching an intersection. There was a huge box truck stopped in the middle of the intersection in the lane next to me, facing the same direction as I was, waiting for traffic to clear so he could turn left. Due to the truck I couldn't see any of the West Bound traffic and the people going west couldn't see anything in the lane I was in. As I passed through the intersection some kid in a Subaru, that was going the opposite direction that I was, popped out of nowhere in front of me because he tried to make a left into an Apartment complex. Did my best to miss him but it was pretty much unavoidable. Told the Police and I on scene he couldn't see if traffic was clear and stated, and I quote, "I just went for it". I looked up the value of my vehicle which has 55k on it and then tried to guesstimate the damage and how much its going to cost. It's going to be a REAL close call if they fix it or total it out. I hope they fix it. I just paid the thing at the start of the year! And we all know if its totaled I'll never get the real value of it back. And aside from the door ajar issue, which I finally fixed, this has been my favorite vehicle I've ever owned. Driven this thing to Flordia and Lousiana several times back and forth comfortably. So I took off the side weathertech rain guards and snapped a few photos of what could be my last time with my vehicle. Also have a picture of the Subaru that viciously attacked my Ford Edge. Wish me luck!

Hmm. Wasn't aware of that. Interestingly enough another person I know's Edge starting doing this too (apparently it looks like every Edge will have this problem eventually if you have it long enough. That's two people I know in person that have the issue not including everyone on here). I had him try this method with the electric contact cleaner, pipe cleaner, and skip the brake cleaner part. Still worked. Good call. Instead of doing it with the Brake Cleaner once a month as a precaution measure as planned I'll use the electric contact cleaner instead. It's only been 3 days since my buddy used the electric cleaner method combined with mine above. I'll report back in a few weeks and let you know how its going.

Alright folks. I've posted a few times about having this problem like the rest of you and every fix I've done has only worked temporarily. Well I finally found a method that seems to have fixed mine. Did it about a month ago and still having no problems. I found a Youtube video online that shows you how to easily get to the white switch that causes the door ajar warning. I'll post it below. The guy in the video uses canned air and a dremel to fix his problem but I didn't do any of that. I'll post the video below. Please watch before reading further. Things you will need: 1. Small flat head screwdriver or something similar in size like in the video. 2. Brake Cleaner Spray w/straw 3. (Optional) Hard Bristle Pipe Cleaner 1. Open the door and manually get the door to the lock position to get to the white switch like the video shows. 2. Spray the white switch and the area around it with the brake cleaner. You don't have to use the whole can. I just used 3-4 high pressure sprays from the straw that came the brake cleaner. 3. After spraying the switch move it up and down a couple of times with your screw driver or whatever item you used. If you are using a a pipe cleaner use it in the area of the white switch in an attempt to clean around it. DO NOT USE a cheap pipe cleaner because it will leave fabric in the area and cause more problems. 4. Leave the door open for 20-30 minutes so whatever is in there has a chance to drip out onto the ground. The first time I did this I didn't use the pipe cleaner step and the fix still worked. However the other day I found some in my garage and stuck one up there after spraying it with brake cleaner again and the gunk I pulled out was pretty impressive. I can see why the switch wasn't working like it was supposed to. I think even if the Dealership changes out the switch that you will end up having the issue down the line again anyway I hope this fix helps some of you out. I've tried the contact cleaner spray fix, WD-40, etc. that I've seen on these boards and nothing worked longer than a week. This has been going a month strong. A guy I work with also has an Edge that started having this problem and this method has worked for him as well. I think from here on out I'm just going to spray the switch every few months as a preventaive measure. Below is a link to the video and a link to the brake cleaner I bought off Amazon that doesn't have an overpowering smell. Again the video shows him using canned air and mentions using a dremel to trim down the switch but I did NOT do this. https://www.youtube....h?v=Kz0fD8UAXLc http://www.amazon.co...s=Brake cleaner

Alright folks. I've posted a few times about having this problem like the rest of you and every fix I've done has only worked temporarily. Well I finally found a method that seems to have fixed mine. Did it about a month ago and still having no problems. I found a Youtube video online that shows you how to easily get to the white switch that causes the door ajar warning. I'll post it below. The guy in the video uses canned air and a dremel to fix his problem but I didn't do any of that. I'll post the video below. Please watch before reading further. Things you will need: 1. Small flat head screwdriver or something similar in size like in the video. 2. Brake Cleaner Spray w/straw 3. (Optional) Hard Bristle Pipe Cleaner 1. Open the door and manually get the door to the lock position to get to the white switch like the video shows. 2. Spray the white switch and the area around it with the brake cleaner. You don't have to use the whole can. I just used 3-4 high pressure sprays from the straw that came the brake cleaner. 3. After spraying the switch move it up and down a couple of times with your screw driver or whatever item you used. If you are using a a pipe cleaner use it in the area of the white switch in an attempt to clean around it. DO NOT USE a cheap pipe cleaner because it will leave fabric in the area and cause more problems. 4. Leave the door open for 20-30 minutes so whatever is in there has a chance to drip out onto the ground. The first time I did this I didn't use the pipe cleaner step and the fix still worked. However the other day I found some in my garage and stuck one up there after spraying it with brake cleaner again and the gunk I pulled out was pretty impressive. I can see why the switch wasn't working like it was supposed to. I think even if the Dealership changes out the switch that you will end up having the issue down the line again anyway I hope this fix helps some of you out. I've tried the contact cleaner spray fix, WD-40, etc. that I've seen on these boards and nothing worked longer than a week. This has been going a month strong. I think from here on out I'm just going to spray the switch every few months as a preventaive measure. Below is a link to the video and a link to the brake cleaner I bought off Amazon that doesn't have an overpowering smell. Again the video shows him using canned air and mentions using a dremel to trim down the switch but I did NOT do this. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kz0fD8UAXLc http://www.amazon.com/3M-08880-Power-Brake-Cleaner/dp/B0002FU44K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1443995771&sr=8-1&keywords=Brake+cleaner

My 2011 Edge just hit 51k and I just started getting this issue. Tried the contact cleaner trick a few times (usually spray the whole can up into the latch). It usually works great for a week or two then slowly over a few weeks goes back to where it thinks its ajar all the time...don't really want to take apart the door but it might come to that because I think paying 300-400 bucks to fix a problem that everyone is obviously having is ridiculous.

Hmm. Yeah, your post was one of the ones I was referring to. Just didnt see a topic dedicated to upgrading the old systems. But Ford saying you have to buy a new vehicle to experience Sync 3 to me means they won't be offering it for consumers to buy for our older vehicles or won't be doing a seperate update with the QNX. I guess saying they lied was bit harsh though...I'm just jealous that the chances of us getting it our extremely low I guess.

Hey..I saw a few other posts where they mentioned seeing this mod but didn't find a topic dedicated to it. Ford announced the new Sync Gen 3 with the Blackberry QNX and someone from Ford said if you want the new technology you have to buy a new car because it wasn't compatible with the older Ford Sync systems. Well, that was a lie....these pictures were posted on the the SHO Forums. A user works for Ford or knows someone that does and modded his 2013 Ford SHO which had the Gen 2 system and replaced it with the Gen 3 system which wasn't even out yet. Here is his quote after a user asked if it was hard to replace. "It just involves taking a bunch of panel pieces apart. Ive done it on so many vehicles i just know what to look for. Its designed as a direct replacement, so no harness modifications. Only thing needed is a aftermarket antenna" Someones LinkedIN Resume also has a whole part on it where it states he was responsible for reprograming Sync 2 systems to work with Sync 3 and responsible for a "Seamless transition from existing WMfA based system to QNX based system, updated by the end-user". That can be found here. http://i.imgur.com/dOrszhY.png Obviously Ford was originally planning to release this for older models and for whatever reason decided against it (my guess money if they are telling people to buy new cars). You'd think they would at least give customers the option to replace it if they wanted to pay for it. Though after all the headaches we all went through with the MFT and how half the stuff promised never came to light, you'd hope they would give us some sort of discount but that is a different topic all together... Anyway, I wonder if we made a big enough stink about it they would release it? Or do we have to wait for these newer cars to start getting smashed up so we can go to a junkyard to get what we should have had in ours cars anyway... Here is the link where I saw it: http://www.shoforum.com/index.php?threads/new-here-2013-sho.128950/

I sent a PM a few weeks ago about the same issue...My 2011 Ford Edge is out of warranty (46k) and just started having the shift to park issue this January. Right around the same time my drivers door is now saying it isn't closed when it is...I don't really want to go to the dealership, pay them $100, and have them be unable to "recreate the issue" since it only happens a few times a week to me randomly.

When I was shopping for my Edge I chose the touch screen because it looks much cleaner then the bare bones with 100 knobs everywhere. However, with that being said, I bet it would cost a pretty penny to get MFT installed which IMO isn't worth it. It is nice, but not that nice. I was reading something on aftermarket headunits all supporting the android ecosystem now. I'd look into maybe buying one of those for your Edge. Then you can get Android navigation, android apps for music, and apps for movies....

Always use 87 in mine... Interesting enough I just started going to Costco and they use the "top tier rated" gas. I noticed 1-2 mpg increase since I started using it. Used to usually just get Speedway gas when I filled.

Just started coming back to these forums...kinda late reply but maybe it'll help someone out. I had my car in the shop to get the tires rotated and when I got it back the guy said they topped off all the fluids. Cool. Then I drove from Ohio to Florida and then back again. At some point I went to put windshield washer fluid in and saw that the Power Steering Fluid cap wasn't on...it was sitting next to it!!!...guy forgot to put it back on and the fluid was extremely dirty. When I got home I bought some steering fluid and a cheap turkey baster. What I did was suck out as much as I could then refilled it. Drove around. Next day did the same thing. After I did this about 4 times it was as clean and new as the day I bought it.

Which AVS Deflector did they send you (aka the part number)? I love yours, but when I look it up I keep finding two different ones...The part numbers are #25065 and #322028......They both fit the Ford Edge, and all the pictures and descriptions are the same. What is the difference between the two?