PrinzII

I have listened to them and they are a pretty decent budget speaker. However, you might want to go for the VR or C5 series.

I am considering the amps made by Tru Technology: http://www.trutechnology.com

I am sure it's possible. I am talking with a friend of mine to make some determinations.

The sub in the audiophile system is an 8".

Is anyone planning to add an amp to their system?

Highs = Treble Mids, or midrange consists of the frequencies starting at 1,000 Hz and up to 9,000 or 10,000 Hz The Infinity Kappas are a good choice but you might want to take a listen to some of the speakers I listed. Especially the Boston Acoustics.

Your beam pattern and mine are the same. I'll post pics later with both high and low beam. I am wondering if we have to make some adjustments since the beam looks like it's going left.

Suggestion for stock 5x7/6x8 locations Morel Tempo: http://www.morelhifi.com/products/mob_poin...kers_tempo.html JL Audio TR 575: http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_compone...php?comp_id=116 JL Audio C5-570x: http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_compone...php?comp_id=445 Note: There is a C5-570 but it is a component system Boston Acoustics SX 85: http://www.bostonacoustics.com/car/car_pro...;product_id=342 Boston Acoustics S 85: http://www.bostonacoustics.com/car/car_pro...p;product_id=81 Infinity Kappa 6827.cf: http://www.infinitysystems.com/car/product...&Region=USA Diamond Audio D373i: http://www.diamondaudio.com/content/view/119/132/

I have listened to Infinity, JL Audio, Boston Acoustics, Focal, Morel, a/d/s and a few others. The key thing to determine which speaker you will like is your listening habits. Do you want a speaker that will reproduce highs and mids well because you listen to music such as classical or jazz? Do you want a speaker that will have a good bass punch for when you listen to hip-hop, dance music, or hard rock? Do you want a speaker that can do both of the above? As for me, I am looking for a speaker that can handle all of the above. From my listening experience, I like Boston Acoustics, JL Audio (VR and XR Series), Morel, Infinity (Kappa Series), and Diamond. Granted, that is a short list, but the only way to determine what you like is to head to a store and take a quick listen with some decent test material.

For giggles, I took some pics of the beam pattern and I am getting the same kind of scattering that Lex mentioned. However, I do realize that we are putting HIDs in a housing meant for halogens and there can be some variations of results. Therefore, I, as well as other drivers, can live with it. retro: For the High Beams, I took the red rubber seal from the halogens and installed it on the base of the HIDs. I may try that with the low beams to see what happens. tiaquessa: If Ford made the Edge with HIDs, the bulbs would not be H11 or 9005. They would be a variant of a D2 (D2R or D2S) and they can get pretty pricey. For instance, when I had my '02 Max, the replacement D2R was $200 for one bulb. I am sure it may be cheaper now.

I am going to watch this thread because I am considering the same thing. It's hard to consider changing the head unit without changing the speakers.

They could have done this from the jump, but how much of the cost of engineering this would have been passed on to us?

Aaaah. In my case, no extra holes had to be drilled.

Are there any odors coming in through the a/c system?

In the above pic, the bolt that is holding that ballast in place has the speedclip in the oval hole I mentioned earlier. The clip clamps on the rim of that hole when the screw is tightened. I can take a different pic to better explain it.

This is one I got from a different vendor before retro came on the scene. I bought these from one of the vendors of a Maxima forum I moderate. The vendor is http://shop.3bspecialties.com/main.sc . The one I have is also a digital ballast, 6000k, and 35 watts. I elected to go with high and low beam HIDs because the roads in some parts of AZ are pitch black and you need as much light as possible. However, the black device that holds the ballast is a bracket. The speedclip I mentioned is a u-shaped piece of metal that can clamp in the oval hole and tightens when it is screwed in. Examples shown here: The speedclip is quite sturdy and I do not have any vibration.

One challenge is where to put the third ballast. I have already used two available spots for low and high beam. My guess is that you'd have to take the bumper cover off and install the ballasts underneath it.

Ballast mounting points Driver's side: Passenger's side:

Writeup Rough Draft Items needed a) Cable ties Speedclip(s) c) Socket wrench with 10mm socket 1) Remove old bulbs by twisting the bulb clockwise and then disconnect the bulb from the harness. 2) To make things easier, connect the wires to the ballasts and install the ballasts before installing the bulbs. I did the following for my install: - Low Beam Passenger side install is similar to Lex's as it is right by the washer fluid reservoir - Low Beam Driver's side install requires the installation of a speedclip in a 2" oval hole in the fender - High Beam (Both sides) are installed lower in the engine bay closer to the fenders. There are two 10mm bolts that could be used to secure the ballasts. Remove the bottom most bolt and secure the ballast bracket by reinserting and tightening the bolt. Repeat on other side. 3) Connect oval connector from ballast wires to headlight harness. Note: Ensure connection is secure, otherwise, it will not work. 4) Remove bulbs from plastic tubing in package. These twist off. If you have a rubber piece for sealing the wires in a firewall, you can cut that off since you will not need it. Insert bulbs in the socket and twist counter clockwise to secure. If you are having difficulty inserting the bulbs, change the orange rubber seal to the one from the original headlight bulbs. Makes the install much easier. Repeat for other side and/or other bulbs. 5) Connect bulbs to ballast by inserting into the proper round connector. These connectors are foolproof in that they are designed to connect to the opposite connector on the ballast. Repeat for each bulb. 6) Turn on the lights and enjoy your handiwork.

Install completed yesterday. Here are the befores and afters. Before w/ stock halogens: Afters Low Beam High Beam