TheWizard

Okay, I kinda expected that with the current nanny hand holding automakers seem to think is necessary. Can someone else possibly tell me which fuse to pull?

Is there any way to turn off the park aid for longer than just until the next time the car is started? When we do our bicycle support for charity rides, the bike rack causes the park aid to go nuts beeping whenever the car is put in reverse. You can disable the beeping for that time but it comes back again the next time. It would be nice if it could be turned on and off like most other options so that it could be disabled while the bike rack is mounted and turned back on later.

Yes, it is true that color temperature has nothing to do with the measurable intensity of the light but it does affect the effectiveness of the light. That's because the human eye doesn't handle blue light as well as the warmer colors so the higher temperature (more blue) lights appear to the eye to have more glare and less effective illumination of objects. By the time you get to 10,000K blue HIDs, you might as well have stayed with halogen for all the effective lighting they produce. It's also why blue lights on police vehicles are so noticeable - the eye sees more glare which catches their attention better.

"Truck" The Mustang is my car and the Edge is her truck (I know it's not really a truck) What is the name of your refrigerator?

I'm curious... what kind of car do you have that has 6000K HIDs from the factory? Must be some sort of exotic because normal production vehicles from GM, Ford, Chrysler, Audi, BMW, Mercedes, etc. all use 4300K for their HIDs (I'm not sure of the color temperature for those vehicles that are starting to use LED headlights). That's because glare increases and visibility drops off as you go into higher temperatures from there. The 55W HID kits tend to "wash out" a bit so a 55W 6000K will actually look similar to a 35W 5000K setup (more white, less blue).

The headlight assembly is a projector and the lens inverts everything. Just like using one of those pinhole boxes to watch an eclipse. (Am I dating myself with that? Do kids still do that?)

My point had nothing to do with the technical accuracy of naming conventions. I was trying to point out that when aftermarket lighting supliers (LED bulbs, HID kits, etc.) refer to special "CAN Bus" versions of their products, they are referring to those vehicles which have monitoring systems in their lighting circuits - something Ford products don't have. There is no need to buy special "CAN Bus" versions of lighting products because there is no warning light, dash message or diagnostic code created by the Ford MS-CAN for lighting problems. The closest equivalent in Fords is the hyper-flashing of the turn signals caused by the low resistance of LED bulbs and even that requires only a resistor and not a special circuit to overcome. The original question was "do we need a CAN Bus HID kit?" and the answer is no.

My '11 Mustang has the MS-CAN and HS-CAN (medium speed and high speed) the same as the Edge (and I know the '10 Mustang is the same) so I suspect that most of the Ford lineup would be configured similarly. I don't know what year they started and it's difficult to determine without the service manuals but I would say that any Ford passenger car from at least 2010 and newer would have those two networks.

Actually there is. Other manufacturers with Controller Area Networks don't call their system "CAN Bus" in the same way. I was using "THE" and "CAN Bus" with that particular capitalization to indicate the trade name as opposed to a generic controller area network that other manufacturers have. I was trying to distinguish between the European "CAN Bus" and others because of the differences in their sensitivity to change. The BMW system in particular is notorious for not tolerating even the smallest change - their motorcycles will sometimes throw a code simply because 3157 tail light bulbs were replaced with 3457 bulbs.

The Edge has a Controller Area Network (CAN)... in fact it has two - a high speed CAN network and a medium speed CAN network. The high speed network is for vehicle control critical operations such as anti-lock brakes, steering, traction control, etc. The medium speed network is for less time sensitive operations such as lighting, audio, HVAC, etc. But neither one is "THE" CAN Bus that everyone talks about when discussing electronic compatibility. That CAN Bus is used almost exclusively on European imports (especially BMW, Mercedes, Audi, etc.) and is designed to report to the driver when changes such as burned out bulbs are detected in the electrical system. It will trigger a warning light or message on the dash when such changes are detected. The problem is that it is extremely sensitive to even minor changes so aftermarket products have to be very careful not to change resistance or other parameters of the electrical system to avoid triggering a warning. The Edge does not have that kind of monitoring system.

The Edge does not have CAN Bus so you should get the HD relay harness. CAN Bus is an onboard network in mostly European cars that monitors the electrical system for things like burned out bulbs and will display a warning or idiot light on the dash if it finds a problem.

There is nothing preventing both filaments of an incandescent bulb from being lit at the same time. They are not connected except for sharing a common ground so as long as current is flowing, the filaments will be lit. Switchback LED bulbs are different in that they are electronic and have circuitry built-in to manage which color ("filament") is lit. The circuit logic shuts off the white LEDs when the amber ones are lit. Type 1 (AW) switchbacks will alternate amber and white when the parking lights are on and the turn signals are flashing. Type 2 (AO) switchbacks will flash amber/off regardless of whether the parking lights are on and will only return to white after the turn signals are cancelled (if the parking lights are on). The car is maintaining constant power to the parking light circuit but the LED bulb is controlling which LEDs get lit.

That's a good question... I've never checked. Certainly on non-computerized vehicles the parking light filament remains lit when the signals are on because they are two completely separate circuits other than sharing a common ground. But with everything computer controlled it would be quite possible to design them to keep both filaments from lighting at the same time. However, I doubt it because of how they work with the lights on... they flash bright-dim-brigh-dim rather than bright-off-bright-off so it would seem that the parking light circuit continues to have power even with the signals on. Otherwise you would see a short outage between flashes as it takes a moment for the incandescent filament to fully illuminate.

You can simply connect the white trigger wire to the yellow/blue parking light wire at the turn signal socket. The parking lights are not on with the DRLs (whether they use the headlight or the turn signal) so the Edge 2 lights would dim with the headlights but not with the DRLs. The only difference is that the Edge 2 lights would also dim if you select 'P' on the headlight switch to manually activate just the parking lights without the headlights. Even that isn't much of a difference since any use of parking lights or headlights would normally be after dark so dimmer Edge 2 lights makes sense.

It sounds like the relay is stuck in the closed position. Fortunately, relays are inexpensive as long as you don't buy them at Radio Shack. Most auto parts stores should have a "Bosch type" 5-pin 30-amp relay for around $10. You can get them online for less than a third of that amount.

You have the correct wires so I suspect that those ScotchLock connectors are not making good contact. If you have a test light or multimeter, open up the cover of the connector and test for power on the bar inside when the signals are on. The other possibility is that the LED bulbs are defective. Try unplugging the bulb on one side but leaving the resistor connected and see if everything works as it should (except for the missing front bulb of course). That will show if the resistor is doing its job of replacing the load of an incandescent bulb.

There are several products that allow you to replace the factory head unit with an aftermarket one having navigation (Kenwood, Pioneer, etc.) but in your case the best option might be the Intraphex GPS Navigation system which integrates navigation into your MFT equipped Edge using the existing factory 8" screen. http://www.intraphex.com/portfolio/ford-navigation/ http://www.autofixinfo.com/IkEA4HoWFIM7F4/2013-FORD-EDGE-INTRAPHEX-GPS-NAVIGATION-SYSTEM.html Neither site has pricing posted so I have no idea how much it costs but it sure looks like an interesting product.

So let's see... you've had a few problems and they have all been resolved under warranty but you're annoyed that you aren't getting the trade-in price you wanted despite the fact that the offer is right in line with Kelly Blue Book trade-in value. Does that summarize the situation fairly? If you have a CarMax near you, they will buy your vehicle - usually for more than dealer trade-in. You don't even have to buy a car from them... they'll just cut you a check.

That's good to know. My chart had different information but it was older (didn't specify any difference between model years) and was from a tire company so I can't vouch for its accuracy.

Yes, when the DRLs are switched to the turn signals, there will be no more voltage reduction to the headlights and they will work both manually and in the auto position.

The wattage is not the problem, it's the low voltage and the way that voltage is created. Ford (and most other manufacturers) use Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) to run the headlights at reduced voltage for DRL. PWM is basically a square-wave signal with the voltage varying between 12V and 0V very rapidly so that the overall average voltage is around 8 volts. A halogen bulb can handle that quite well - the pulsing happens so fast that the bulb just sees the average voltage and produces a dimmer light. But an HID ballast can't handle either the pulsing or the reduced voltage so the lights either don't work at all or they flicker. In either case, the life of the ballast is significantly reduced. When you turn on the headlights with the switch you are no longer in DRL mode and the system feeds full voltage to the headlights so there is no flicker. Unfortunately, the DRLs will be amber. Reprogramming the DRLs from headlights to turn signals makes use of the bright turn signal "filament" (the amber one) not the dim parking light "filament" (the white one). So your switchbacks will be amber all the time except when you have the headlights on (DRLs are off so the white parking/running lights take over). There used to be some specialty switchbacks that have internal circuitry to switch to white when powered constantly but I haven't seen them for some time.

The specs you have there are all you need... 18x8 wheel with 5 bolts in a 114.3 diameter (114 will be fine... the 114.3 is merely because it's 4.5 inches converted to millimeters) with an offset of 38mm. The offset can vary slightly without causing issues. The greater the offset, the more the wheel sits back in the wheel opening (i.e. the closer the mounting surface is to the outer edge of the wheel). Backspacing is another common specification but if you have the offset and the width you can calculate the backspacing (the distance from the mounting surface to the inner edge of the wheel). The only other measurement that might cause a problem is the center hole diameter - if it's too small the wheel won't fit onto the hub. The Edge has a center bore diameter of 70.6mm which is the same as recent model Mustangs (2011+) but larger than the 64.3 of the 08-10 Mustang so don't buy those 08 Mustang wheels.

Although I like the look of the Lancer wheels, they are not a good choice for your Edge. They're only 7" wide which is too narrow for the stock tires and they have a 56mm offset which will make them look recessed in the fender opening.

Those wheels are 1/2" wider than stock. There shouldn't be a problem with fender clearance unless you also lower your Edge. They should fit inside the fender because they have a 50mm offset to compensate for the added width but it is possible you might get some rubbing on the inside on the front at full steering lock due to the extra width. The stock 245/60-18 tires are a good fit on that wheel. Whether it will look good is a matter of personal taste. My vote would be no, there are much nicer wheels to go on the Edge (or on the Mustang for that matter) but my opinion doesn't matter... it's whether you like them or not.

It's not the distance, it's dealing with customs. I will be in Wakefield QC (near Ottawa) in a couple of weeks but I won't be driving up so I can't bring them with me. Yes, I think certain Mustang wheels would look good on an Edge. However, I can't find any listing showing the wheels you're considering on any late-model Mustang. I assume they are aftermarket wheels with Mustang center caps added. You would need more information to confirm a proper fit. We can assume the bolt pattern is correct but you should find out the width (to match the tires you plan to use), the offset and the back spacing. Mustang factory wheels have 44mm offset and 5.83" backspacing in an 18x8 size. Edge wheels have only 40mm offset but that difference shouldn't cause a problem. A larger offset positions the wheel further into the wheel well (moves the hub closer to the outside edge of the wheel) but 4mm would not be noticeable.