TheWizard

There are two possibilities - either the EDGE 2 lights are defective in some way or they are wired incorrectly. I say this because the EDGE 2 lights have no direct connection to the headlights so HID versus halogen makes no difference. Yes, they are wired to dim when the lights are on but that's not the headlights, that's the running/parking lights (which are also on with the headlights). Make sure the white wire is connected to the parking lights and not to the headlights - especially not to the high voltage output between the HID ballast and the capsule (bulb).

There are many differences between standard incandescent bulbs and LEDs but the one that affects turn signals is the fact that LEDs draw very little current and produce almost no resistance. Up until the late 90s, most cars used a thermal turn signal flasher. It worked much like a thermostat - current would flow through a bi-metal arm until it warmed up enough to bend, breaking the circuit so that it could cool and move back to make contact again. The opening and closing of the contacts made the signal lamps flash off and on. If you replaced the standard bulbs with LEDs, there would not be enough current flow to heat the bi-metal arm so the turn signals would go on but not flash. This was intended as a bulb out indicator for the driver. As electronics got more sophisticated, car makers got rid of the old thermal flashers in favor of electronic flashers and even entire electronic control modules (my Mustang has a complex module to synchronize the three rear sequential signal lamps with the single lamps up front). They still wanted a bulb out indication for drivers so they added circuitry to determine when too little current was flowing and then they had the module flash the turn signal about twice as fast as normal (hyper-flash). The problem is that not only does a burned out bulb cause reduced current but so does an LED replacement. Then along came CAN bus - a network not unlike Ethernet for allowing the various computers and electronic modules in modern cars to talk to each other without requiring a central "server" to coordinate the communication (i.e. peer-to-peer networking). Some European manufacturers got fancy with their CAN bus network circuit so that it monitors the current flow through lighting circuits (not just turn signals) and triggers a "bulb out" warning light on the dash when the current flow is not within normal limits. Some domestic models also monitor the lamps using a CAN bus circuit but most of them still use the hyper-flash indicator for burned out bulbs. The common factor is the low current flow. There are two ways you can increase the current flow with LED replacement bulbs. One is to use some of the newer very high power LEDs that draw enough current to be within the limits of the detection circuitry. The other is to add resistance to the circuit to simulate the resistance of the filament in an incandescent bulb. That resistance is about 6 ohms for a standard 32 candlepower bulb like an 1157 or 3157. Installing resistors is much easier than many people think. Basically, you want to add the resistance in parallel across the power and ground of the bulb. This is commonly done by splicing one end of the resistor to the power wire and the other to the ground wire of each bulb you replace. You can also connect one end to the power wire and the other to chassis ground if it is more convenient. I found a company that makes a dual load resistor module that simplifies things because you can do both sides with one module. It has three wires - one for each side power and one for common ground - and is built into a weatherproof heat sink housing (resistors produce lots of heat). In fact, I used one behind the left kick panel for my rear turn signals because there wasn't enough space at the back lamps and I could connect both sides with one module. Sorry for the lengthy post (but you asked for an explanation)

Your vehicle doesn't have DRLs unless you bought it in Canada or you've had the dealer turn them on (i.e. they don't come standard equipment on US Edge models). So an HID conversion won't be affected. BTW, no 9006 bulb is an upgrade to 9012 no matter what PIAA tries to tell you. The standard 9006 produces about 1,000 lumens from 55 watts. Over-driving the filament (like PIAA does) pushes that output to almost 1,100 lumens at a cost of greatly reduced bulb life. A standard 9012 bulb produces almost 1,900 lumens from the same 55 watts of power (about 70% more light output). Don't believe any company that tells you they produce "115 watts of light for 51 watts of power (51=100 watt)" for two reasons... first, a watt is a unit of electrical or thermal power not of light output, and second it's physically impossible to produce more watts output than input - unless you believe in cold fusion.

Not possible - the turn signals in the Edge are controlled by the Body Control Module (BCM) so there is no standard flasher to replace.

Also, are you in Canada? You can't use HIDs with the factory daytime running lights in the headlights.

The only 4GB limit in FAT32 is individual file size - not volume size. In theory, you can create an 8TB volume using FAT32 but in practice the limit is more like 2TB for a variety of reasons. There is a 32GB limit for creating volumes using the graphical tools in Windows XP and Windows 7 (Windows Explorer/My Computer). However, you can format much larger volumes using the command line (format /FS:FAT32 X:) or any one of dozens of free tools available for download. So paying $10 for CompuApps Swissknife Premium just to format a drive larger than 32GB as FAT32 is completely unnecessary. There are several disk partitioning programs that are free for home use. My personal favorite is AOMEI Partition Assistant Home Edition (www.disk-partition.com) because of the flexibility it offers and the way it can manipulate existing partitions without losing data.

Actually, it's not just changes in ambient temperature that impact tire pressure - although that has a significant impact (especially 120 degrees F). It's also the change in temperature of the tire due to driving. Tires heat up significantly in use... more so at higher/sustained speeds. Believe it or not, a tire's temperature will increase between 20 and 50 degrees (Fahrenheit) after 30 minutes of driving at 60 mph (depending on ambient conditions). The temperature increases even more if the tires start out underinflated because of the increased flexing of the sidewall. Those "road gators" (pieces of truck tire tread) that you see on the road are examples of the kind of catastrophic failure that can occur when tires overheat. Ever notice how you see more of them when the pavement turns from light colored concrete to blacktop? That's because the blacktop is hotter.

Every passing month? You need to check your pressure much more often than that. Checking every week (two at the most) will keep you from wearing out your tires prematurely or risking a blowout. On my motorcycle, I check tire pressure before every ride because tire problems on a bike will leave you stranded in the best case (no spare) and can cause a serious crash. It is not at all unusual for tire pressure to drop by a pound or two each week. This does not indicate a problem, just the normal variation caused by temperature change and the natural porousness of the tires. Using nitrogen instead of air will slow that change but unless you can get it for free, the difference is not worth the cost. Costco includes nitrogen for free with their tires but most other places charge about $10 per tire.

If you have had your dealer set up the front turn signals as DRLs, you can make them white but doing so creates unwanted side effects. Cutting the parking light and turn signal wires near the sockets on each side and cross-connecting the wires will give you white DRLs and amber running lights. But it will also give you white turn signals (because DRLs and and turn signals use the same circuit) which violates vehicle codes and could get you ticketed. If you have not had the dealer turn on the turn signals as DRLs, you could cut the parking light wires (yellow with blue) on each side and connect them to an ignition switched power source. That would make the white LEDs turn on whenever the ignition is on (basically what DRLs do) and still leave you with amber turn signals. However, you would give up the courtesy light function of those lights (the bumper lights would still work normally).

The light pipes in the bumper are nowhere near bright enough to be used as DRLs. That's why the programming doesn't offer that option. Best option if you want them as DRLs is to buy the replacement lamps from Daytime Bright Lights.

Anybody else experience issues related to water? Last week on vacation, we had torrential downpours and street flooding (figures right? ) and one of the EDGE 2 lights went to solid amber regardless of lights or turn signals. So I disconnected them and left them until today at home. Now that they've had time to dry out, I reconnected them and now they work normally again. I'm going to get behind and check that the rubber grommet around the white and black wires hasn't come out of place but I was wondering if anybody else might have had a similar experience?

Are you sure you got the fuse in the right slot? Most of the slots in the junction box under the hood have constant (battery) power. Only a few have the required ignition switched power which will make your lights go off with the ignition. If you tapped into a constant fuse, your lights will be on all the time.

You should save your money to buy a keyboard with punctuation keys and capital letters. I, for one, have no idea what you were trying to tell us... perhaps you could explain further.

I have replaced all front and rear signal bulbs with LED equivalents. Cellbine is correct - the cheap bulbs don't do a good job of improving visibility over stock incandescent bulbs. Beyond that, different reflectors work better with different bulb types. For the '11+ Edge, I've found that the high wattage bulbs such as those "PlaZma" ones you found work well in the front but not as well in the back. The reflector of the rear turn signals works much better with multi-element LED bulbs such as the 45 SMD tower bulbs available at superbrightleds.com - they fill out the lens with a solid light that has a slightly sparkling effect because of all the individual LEDs. Resistors are not necessary to make the LED bulbs work... they are necessary only to keep the turn signals from "hyper-flashing" to indicate a burned out bulb. However, I have found that the rear socket electrical contacts are not as tight as the front sockets. I had to bend the wire contacts on the LED bulbs outward to ensure good contact with the socket to get them to light up reliably. You can buy LED bulbs with resistors built-in or you can buy higher power bulbs that draw enough current to fool the flasher module without requiring resistors. In either case, they are going to be much more expensive than $30 (mine cost $30 EACH and I have paid $50 each in the past). Otherwise, you will have to add resistors to prevent the "hyper-flashing".

You should resist the urge to comment on subjects of which you know nothing. I can tell you from personal experience that helmets and related safety gear save lives. I've been riding motorcycles for more than 35 years including road racing and dirt track. I also take an experienced rider training course and/or track training class at least once every three years so I consider myself a somewhat better than average rider. About 15 years ago I was involved in a serious accident in the mountains of North Carolina when a car pulled out of a driveway without looking. My bike sustained more than $5,000 damage, my jacket was mostly shredded and my helmet delaminated from extended sliding on the pavement and impact with a curb. Yet I walked away without even a headache (some minor road rash on my back). I have had friends come off their bikes at even higher speeds (during races) and walk away without a scratch. Even those who have experienced injuries such as broken bones would have been much worse without their protective gear. The argument that you don't need safety devices like seat belts because you haven't had an accident is an attempt at trying to prove a negative... no better than people who say that deer whistles work because they've never hit a deer. Well, my UFO whistles must work also because I've never been abducted by aliens. You may never be involved in a serious accident and that's a good thing. But no matter how good a driver you are or how careful you are, you can't account for the other guy who is texting or does something else stupid leaving you no opportunity to avoid a collision.

It looks to be the momentary switch used in aftermarket alarms to program system options and control things like valet mode. You would have to find the alarm "brain" box to get the alarm make and model so you could find an owner's manual.

Well said Waldo! (You beat me to it) The "you won't survive anyway" argument is merely misguided self justification much like the "helmets cause neck injuries" argument used by some bikers. When you actually look at the facts, you find both are just BS excuses.

I won't even ask why anyone in this day and age would drive a vehicle without wearing the seat belt. Seat belts save lives just as motorcycle helmets do but I see dumb riders without helmets every day so obviously their lives aren't important to them. In any case, don't buy one of those electronic LED flashers online because they won't work with any recent model Ford... you won't even find a place to plug them in. Ford and most other manufacturers have gone to computer controlled turn signals - even cars that don't have the newer electronic turn signal switch (e.g. Ford Escape) have replaced traditional flashers with computerized control.

Do you mean that you don't get high beam on one side? The shutter in the headlight projector lens is what switches the beam pattern from low beam to high beam (it moves out of the way when you switch to high beam). The high beam power wire (when power is applied, the shutter moves out of the way) is gray/brown on the left side and purple/orange on the right side. Check that you didn't damage those wires during EDGE 2 installation. Those wires are controlled by solid state circuitry in the Body Control Module (BCM) so if the wires are not damaged, you could be looking at replacing the BCM.

What you're asking is not possible unless you connect the black wire to the rear turn signals as has been suggested. The black wire causes the amber LEDs to turn on (and the white ones to turn off) whenever it has power applied. If you connect the black wire to the front lamps with DRLs enabled, you will get only amber LEDs on in the EDGE 2 lights whenever the DRLs are on (as well as flashing with the turn signals). The only time you would see the white LEDs would be with the headlights on (i.e. DRLs are off) or when the ignition is off (again, because the DRLs are off). As posted before, when power is applied to the white wire, the white LEDs turn on at 70% brightness. When power is applied to the black wire, the amber LEDs turn on and the white LEDs turn off regardless of whether the white wire (or the red wire in the main harness) is powered or not.

We got it back from the dealer and the noise is gone. I don't know if it was really the power steering or if they adjusted/fixed something else while they were working on it. There is no mention of any other work on the work orders. So I guess fourth time is the charm.

That's a great observation! I will have them consider that if (when) the problem still exists after they replace all those parts today. Thanks!

Thank you! However, that description doesn't match the symptoms we're experiencing. I hope they're not chasing the wrong problem. Ours has a groaning noise (relatively low pitch) that occurs when turning left at speeds above about 10-15 mph (e.g. highway on-ramp or a wide intersection). We aren't turning the wheel more than a quarter turn... nowhere near the steering lock. I can see where there might be an issue with the power steering pump relief valve that would cause noise but we're not turning the wheel far enough to involve the relief valve.

The noise was present at delivery with 199 miles on it. I suppose it could be bearings or some suspension component but that begs the question "why only during left turns?"

Our '13 Limited is just four months old, has less than 3,000 miles on it and is in the shop for its fifth replacement of power steering components. This time they are replacing the entire system - pump, reservoir, rack and hoses. The pump and rack have been replaced twice each already, the reservoir once and this is the first time for hoses. It started out as a loud groaning noise when turning left. The dealer suspected the power steering pump and replaced it under warranty. When the noise continued, they discovered a technical service bulletin advising of a contamination problem and updating the pump with replacement stock (apparently all the old pumps were removed from stock and replaced - I don't know if it was a redesign or a manufacturing problem). When that still didn't solve the problem, they were advised by Ford to replace the steering rack. On the fourth try, Ford advised them to replace the rack again and the reservoir because of suspected contamination in the system. Now they've had a Ford engineer look at it and they're going to replace everything one more time. Does anyone know where I can get more information on this TSB? It started out as a noise but now I'm thinking it may be something more serious and I don't want to risk driving a vehicle with potential steering problems.