briandye

I already did an LED swap, which seems to be about the same output, just crisp white. I have these small 4" 18w bulbs that I would like to add, possibly under the bumper or somewhere you can't see them, to really light up the ground since I do a lot of reversing at night (that sounds weird, lol) Could the circuit handle 18w bulbs on each side? (I doubt they're actually a true 18w, the wire going to the housing is smaller than the Edge reverse lights socket, so I would assume it should be okay? Picked these up for $18 for a cooler radio/wagon build I'm doing and had this idea since they're still sitting around.

I did some searching and found the tube, blew my airgun through it, nothing came out, so it looks like it wasn't clogged. (Verified after a quick Kroger trip with the AC on) Ill try and remember to pay attention tomorrow morning when I get to work to see if I hear anything. I read in another thread somewhere, someone suggested not to always have it on recirculate, why is that? I always grew up with the idea that "Max AC" was recirc and blew colder/more air, is that not true? What would that have todo with the drain tube?

Peter, no its liquid somewhere near the firewall, and edgedout, that may just be the culprit, I haven't looked to see if my AC is dripping under the car. I prefer to do my own work, where might that tube be? Ill add that to my list today, put new tie rod ends on, rotated my tires, and got an alignment, might as well do some more! lol

2009 3.5 Recently noticed a "sloshing" type noise when I first start the car. Seems to only happen when it's first started for the day, doesn't happen after its warm, or maybe it does and I can't tell because I'm on the highway (noise) or have the AC on high. Doesn't seem to happen any other time when its started though even after it's sat for hours and cooled down like when I'm at work 9 to 11 hour shifts typically) Of course I checked all fluids, and visually looked and didn't see anything out of the ordinary. Nothing was low, no fluids mixed, AC, and everything functions like normal. Coolant level still at the line like it should be and raises a bit when it's warm. Any ideas? Doesn't *seem* to be an issue, just more of an annoyance than anything.

I upgraded my stock Sync unit to a double din Pioneer. I'm thinking about adding the SXM tuner, but was wondering if I could use the stock antenna. I know in the back where the spare tire is, is where the stock reciever is (My stock radio never worked with satellite, always gave me some kind of error) and I noticed the antenna uses the same plug as an aftermarket unit. Is that plug anywhere up front by any chance as well? Or is there a long extension I can buy? I'm anal with adding stuff on the outside of the car, especially a second antenna which the car already has.

These are out of my 2009 Edge Limited. Had the non-Nav 6 disc Sync, with 6 speakers and the sub. (2) A-Pillar Tweeters (2) Front door speakers w/crossovers for the tweeters (2) Rear door speakers with built in tweeter Only "flaw" is the little plastic connector was cut from the tweeters. Plenty of wire left to easily splice to the stock wiring or find another one of those connectors. All speakers work great, none were blown. Upgraded to components, that's why I'm selling. Shipping from Monroe, MI. I eat image shipping will probably be about $15 via USPS. Pay via PayPal gifting thing, or include the percentage they take out as a fee for a regular transaction. Make an offer, worst I can say is no!

Might be a dumb question- when you use one of those prestone coolant ratio testers, when the needle floats all the way up (indicating a very high boil over protection, and very low temp freeze protection) would that indicate too much coolant? Hopefully that makes sense?

After roughly a gallon drained out of the radiator and refilled with distilled water, im not seeing the 228 temps anymore, stays between 210-218 so im gonna buy some more water today and switch some more out. Leaning towards a complete flush since there's some green still in the system

Squeeze them when they're "cold?" I'll try that. What am I feeling for? When they're warm/hot they don't feel odd, but then again I don't spend too much time squeezing other cars hoses I feel like an idiot, I dropped my coolant to water ratio which I thbnk I mentioned above, and completely forgot to look at my temp until I got home, which was at 210. So it might have actually helped since it's normally 220+ when I get home. I don't feel like it's the water pump, because I feel like when driving it would get cooler since the engine rpms would make it flow more, and then at idle it would get warmer. I'll post back tomorrow when I drive to work and see what the temps average. I want to drain the whole damn system but it seems like quite a task with this sealed system or pressurized whatever it's called. Did them on my Explorers and other older vehicles no problem, but these damn new cars are crazy.

Ever since my overheating scare, I've got the Ultra-Gauge and watched my temp like a hawk. I never had the device before it overheated, so I don't know what the temp used to run at. Someone on the forum told me about 180-190 and up to 200 idling with the AC on. This doesn't describe my Edge at all. I go right up to about 210, and it varies depending on what I'm doing and what's on, it varies from about 203-228. It makes no sense, so bear with me. Driving with no heat/AC on no matter what speed, it hits anywhere from 205ish, up to 228ish. Usually the lower of the two. Driving with the heat on, it stays around 218-228, usually the higher of the two. Driving with the AC on, it stays lower, around 210-216ish. Once I come to a stop, the temp drops to the lower 200's. (My drive is about 33 miles each way, only 2 miles are not highway) The speed doesn't really play a factor, it's either moving or stopped. Moving = higher temps, sitting = lower temps. Fans are always on full blast when I stop and get out. Temp gauge on the dash never goes past the middle, heat blows hot, AC blows cold. New thermostat this past winter and new radiator tank cap. Recent coolant drain and fill, with G05 gold stuff. Drained some out the past day and added about a gallon of distilled water, hoping maybe I just had too much coolant to water. Any other ideas or things I could check? Or is this somehow normal...?

When I had my Explorer, all I had todo was cut one of the pins on the foglights relay off, and they would stay on with the high beams. (Same normal functionality, but they would stay on if you had them on and turned the high beams on) I really miss that feature because I've upgraded to HIDs in my fogs, so I cant "flash" my high beams but more importantly the loss of light in front of the car. The high beams get farther out, but my fogs have an extremely wide beam which helps with all the damn critters and deer we have around here. Has anyone figured out how to keep them on? Hopefully it's a nice OEM type way where we don't have to have extra switches and relays and all that.

WWWPerf- Thanks for that link, I swear I read that thread before but must've skimmed right over his part numbers. Looks like exactly what I need. Mauricio- What's the deal with that harness being so expensive? It looks like it has the sub harness with that whole dongle. The link WWWPerf sent shows a double din install using a basic harness and does everything I need it to. The only difference looks like that harness will retain the auto volume controls for speed as well as the light mute when the reverse sensors beep, which I don't need. (I can hear them plenty over the normal volume im listening to when parking) I hate waiting on shipping! So far I'll have the harness, dash kit and adapters I need, as well as LEDs for a full conversion being shipped. Should be a fun weekend :-)

No they weren't. I'm back home, idling with the heat off and it's staying right around 195-198. Fans still aren't on. (Hood is open though, and it's about 24 degrees (F).

And I'm back in the road with the temp rising above 200

(Update) Sitting in the AutoZone parking lot idling with the new cap on, temp is down from 200 to 190

So when I changed out my coolant, I noticed it was green. Reading around online pointed out that the Edge required the special Gold G-05 stuff. Got that, got as much as I could out with a few drains and fills and am back to gold. I'm reading on here though that there was some kind of issue with the gold stuff clogging the heater cores and Ford flushes the system and puts green coolant in there now? (Had a little "self-induced-from-carelessness" issue a month or so ago and I'm wanting to completely change my coolant out along with a new radiator cap) What coolant do you run and why? I'm in a 2009 Limited if it matters. (3.5)

Oh. My. God. That's hilarious (and awful at the same time). I've had 4 different second even Explorers, which all had that same "Check Gage" light. Only saw it on once or twice but never-didn't actually check the gauges when it alerted me to an issue lol. WWWPerf- my coolant bottle does rise about an inch when the car is warm.

Sad thing is, I work in the auto industry, and most of the people I work with, would be those dumbasses running up to the dealer if the gauge was a true readout.

Yeah I've always heard about that, about the only correct gauges are the gas and some voltage gauges seem to be decent. Obviously not a "readout" showing just "L________H" but it will actually fluctuate with voltage drops/spikes. I wish the gas gauge was an idiot gauge too :D tell me it's always full until it's time to fill up, lol. At what point does the Edge temp gauge read it as over heating? (To cause it to move from the normal position, to the hot side)

My trip is about 34 miles total, 32 of which are highway, cruising at 70~ with the temp being 30, it stayed right around 213-215 the whole trip.

I just got to work, and am hopefully leaving within the hour, so I'll check that level when I get home when it's warm and when it cools down. (Would stop at Autozone but don't think they'll be open yet) I would like to say there was a very small difference, like you said maybe 1/2-3/4" but I didn't know that was significant enough to mention.

No, no I didnt. It completely slipped my mind once I was overwhelmed with joy when I was able to drive it home after that whole incident. Is there any way to test it? Edit* Screw it, (no pun intended lol) it's only $7 for a new one at AZ. I'll stop on my way home and grab one. Couldn't hurt to replace it either way. I assumed since its not just a standard small metal radiator cap, and a newer car that itd probably be 5x the price. Will post back later.

I think I'm gonna take it in to get the fluid flushed and changed out at a dealership so I know it's done properly, with correct ratios and whatnot.

I'll have to check tomorrow, from what I've saw (haven't directly paid attention to it, but I've glanced) it seems to be right at the cold fill line no matter what (cold engine/warm engine/heat on etc)