briandye

You and be both. I was pretty happy when I went online and saw a new water pump is around $60. Then I did some googling and saw a average estimate of $800-$1100 for labor. Then dug some more to find out why, and of course what a wonderful design. Internal. Driven by timing chain. Awesome. I am so tapped out from pouring money into this thing, and I still owe big time on it. I keep telling myself, as much as I love the amenities of these new cars, I need to stick with pre-2000's vehicles. Too much is controlled through the computer and too much stuff is not user serviceable anymore. I prefer todo all my own work.

TheWizard- The water pumps on the Edge is internal, and driven by the timing chain... As for the fans, they were spinning faster than they ever have before, I could hear them over the engine before Id shut it off. Coolant is definitely low right now, but I don't suspect that to be the culprit. Seems like there's a stoppage somewhere. Hopefully I'm wrong.

After some reading on here, I really really really pray that its not the water pump...I will never buy another Ford product in my life if thats the case.

2009 AWD Edge As I finally get this damn thing back on the road, I drive it to work for the first time in a month, (Drove it down the highway a few times, along with across town and back multiple times before this issue), and I noticed the cabin was getting cold. Look at my temp gauge and its all the way to the right, (You'd think there would be a chime/warning light or something to get my attention to that, but there wasn't) and the air from the vents wasn't warm anymore. I pull over, and steam is pouring out from under the hood. (Specifically the coolant tank cap). About 10-15 minutes after standing out in the -30 temp with cars flying by, it was back down to a little below halfway on the temp gauge. Started it up, still no heat but odd click/thump noises kind of towards the glovebox area, drove about a mile and the temp started to rise. Repeated this process (Heat off though, no more weird noises) until I could limp it into my friends apartment complex, and thankfully he was awake (5am) to give me a ride home. What could cause this? He thinks water pump just from what I said, but he said they usually make an awful sound when they die, which I didn't have. I was thinking stuck-closed thermostat maybe? More info: When I would stop and let it cool down, with the cap off, the tank would be very high when I stopped. By the time the steam slowed down, the tank would be almost empty. When I would stop, the upper hose by the radiator was rock hard with pressure, and when the steam would stop and coolant would go back down, the hose was pliable as normal. (Well, normal as in able to be squeezed like I thought they should usually be?) I flushed/changed my coolant about 4 (+/-) months back, and haven't had a single issue until now.

Well I soaked them in PB blaster, but couldn't break them loose for the life of me. I double checked the rubber boots and anything I could visually see, and they appeared to be in perfect working order still so I said screw it, and kept the stock ones on. I was able to find my other jack that could actually reach them and push hard enough to hold the stud in place. She drives like a new car! Still drives perfectly straight down the road as well. Next thing is to change my oil and TPU fluid, but it's a wonderful -20 or less outside right about now.

Well, apparently the black liquid is just that; black liquid from something I apparently drove through. By the time I got home and parked, it froze like water then when I brought it in the garage and jacked it up, it melted and ran off. I still took the wheel off and checked EVERYTHING, nothing is leaking or broke, drove it quite a bit more and checked again, all is well!

So all is (was) well, got the new parts on, didn't even have to end up using the tie rod ends (I inspected my boots, very clean and full of grease still) so I got everytbing out back together, drove it around for some time and all the lights went off, and I was driving with AWD again. (After that, I still unhooked the battery just to clear anything else out just in case) I washed it, and took it to the state park across the street to snap some pictures, and noticed a thin black fluid all over my drivers side front wheel. All fluids under the hood check out fine, and I don't think its the brake line because my brakes still feel perfectly fine. (In fact with the new pads they feel amazing!) Now I have to figure this out....GREAT!

On my way to buy a sawzall! :D

Im calling/texting everybody I know in hopes that someone will have one. This should-have-been-fairly-easy job is just ridiculous right now! I might just grab one of those $10 hacksaws from Ace Hardware. Of course, girlfriend is at work and I just dropped my moms car back off to her, so i'm stuck here until further notice. Next car I get (Thinking about a newer 2012+ Edge Sport) is getting anti-seize slathered on all exposed bolts like the end links have!

I got the cv in, put the shaft on first and then ended up having to take the C Ring off and bend it a tad smaller. Now I'm stuck on these horribly designed sway bar links. I put an Allen in the top of the bolt (very snug fit) and then an open end wrench on the nut, got it 3/4 of that way off getting harder to turn with every rotation. Then the end of the bolt decides to strip out where the Allen goes just like the other side. The bolt was soaked with PB blaster a good hour before hand. There is no flat side on the bolt to hold with a wrench where it comes out of the boot. It's conpletely round on the stock part as well as the replacement I have. I have never been so frustrated working on a vehicle in my life. This is the upper bolt on the link btw, not the bottom one which looks like it's inpossible to get tools on. Stupidest designed part I have ever seen in my life. Word of advice, if you have the same style, REPLACE IT BEFORE ANY RUST/CORROSION BUILDS ON THE BOLT! And no, I don't have a sawzall or know anyone that has one. Buying one is out of the question as well because I spent another large sum at Autozone today buying a few more things I needed as well to finish this job. ?

Ok so parts are here, got the CV out with those 2 volts, very easy, got the shaft apart but now I'm having trouble putting the new cv into that intermediate shaft. The only thing I can think of is to reinstall that shaft without the new cv, and get it bolted in and then install the new CV. Can anyone confirm?

Yeah, that's definitely odd. I haven't even though to check my rear wheels/hubs etc for anything odd. I saw the broken rings up front and jumped right to conclusion. Definitely gonna go home today and pull my rear wheels off. Mine was intermittent like that too even with the broke rings. I had the traction control issue happen probably over a week before the whole ordeal happened that almost left me stranded. Then it cleared itself right up, then did it again a few days later, then clearednup again. I'm going to be getting a new vehicle once my Patriot lease is up, and I was thinking about a 2012+ Edge Sport but it seems like the AWD models are rare around me (In the Sport models). I won't ever buy another non AWD/4x4 vehicle again unless it's a Charger or something which I've also had in the past. Even then I would still have to get something AWD/4x4 to get me through these Michigan winters. I do not understand how some of the vehicles I see on the road can actually get through some of the snows we get.

Yeah, that's close to what happened to me, not a fun experience at all! Your situation sounds a bit different though, as my (I think they're called ABS Tone Rings?) were both broke, so with enough force they spun freely as well as werent even. I hope, and don't hope that it was just snow in yours. Hope it was because then you have nothing else to worry about, as in nothing was broke or loose, but almost hope something WAS broke because that's a terrible designed system if some packed up snow can throw the (exposed to the elements) sensor off that easily. But like you said, it's like driving an 80's or 90's model vehicle. Mine driving in FWD is a completely different feel and response level to AWD. I luckily have been carpooling so mines been parked in the garage (rest of my parts will be here tomorrow finally). But I did get one CV changed out, and put everything back together to turn the car around and took it down my street and back and without ABS/AWD it's stupid bad in the snow! The tracks from other cars just yanked my car in them, if there had been another car coming, I think I would have had to either pull in someone's driveway til they passed, or back up back to my house where it wasn't as snowy. Hit the brakes and all 4 tires locked up like nothing That's what I was telling a friend too, all the features and amenities of these new cars where everything's electronic and computer controlled is very nice, but when something fails, that's cause for a disaster! Had there been snow or something on the highway and this happened, I might not be here right now!

Yeah I removed the outer tie rod end, and the strut bolts to gain access to the area. Im sore as hell between work this past week, and working on this thing so im waiting until the parts get here to finish that side. Thanks for the description and diagram WWWPerfA_ZN0W. When I was out there, my light was at a weird angle, so those bolts were invisible, I saw them now though. Mind if I ask where you get those detailed diagrams from?

Haha yeah, when I was younger I loved getting a car and doing stuff to it like aftermarket wheels, stereo, lights, etc then id get bored with it and find a different car. I have a thing for Explorers though, if you couldn't tell! I was just watching some YouTube videos of the next gen Edge Sport's and like them more and more. Might just have to grab one if I can find it for a good price. I guess ill just make sure I get a worth-while warranty though. I HAVE to have AWD or 4x4 if I have an SUV. The Patriot is only FWD and it kills me when I have to drive it around. As for the stereo, that 10-speaker Sony system seems like it sounds great, so at the most with that, id add a little single 12" or 15" sub so I could keep some cargo space. Id just have to get creative and make it easily removable for when I have to haul stuff. I always do the whole system though, I couldn't stand when friends would just throw some Wal-Mart subwoofers and amps in the trunk and turn the gain all the way up and think it sounded good. I gotta have the full range of sound, but with ass-kicking bass when I want it

Im just gonna have to replace them, the bolts are pretty corroded on them, so just taking them off took everything I had in me with the ratchet. I tried my hardest to get the drivers side back on, which after a good 20 minutes or so of clamping it, using various things to push it, including a hydraulic jack, I couldn't get the nut more than halfway on. Plenty to be able to get it out of the garage and turn it around to work on the other side though. Do you know if theres any special trick to getting the passenger side CV out? I have everything the same as the drivers side, but its not popping out like that side did. Are there bolts or anything that hold this one on that I don't know about/see? Im about at my whits end working on this thing today, drivers side went smoothly, but passenger side is problem after problem. Seems as if that CV was going bad anyways, so i'm glad i'm replacing them because of the broken ABS rings.

Also another question, all the videos im watching on YouTube show the tie rod end going "down" into the hub/knuckle, and the bolt being on the bottom. Mine is the opposite. My tie rod end bolt was coming through the bottom, up with the nut on top... Is that normal for the Edge?

I figured as much with the end links, guess ill have to buy a saw now. Had ten reasons to in the past year but keep avoiding it, lol. As for the tie rod, thats what I thought, I didnt see how it "wouldn't" spin if that makes sense, but I have no idea how to get the bolt back on? Do I hold the bolt stationary with something? Sorry if thats a dumb question, like I said its been awhile since ive wrenched on a vehicle.

Really bummed on the issues, because for awhile I was considering buying a 2011+ Sport. Love those things, havent driven one yet but they look so good. And I bet the 3.7 is a nice upgrade.

Was raised by a Ford family, so of course I love Ford. Only had a few non-Ford products, and one was the worst vehicle I'd ever owned. I like modifying my vehicles as well, and sometimes get bored with them, and get something else. 1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer (First car, paid $800 for it) 1997 Ford Taurus SE (Passed down from my grandma, had alot of issues that were out of my price range) 1995 Explorer XLT (Traded the Taurus for this, then found a ton of hidden issues) 2002 Taurus (Traded the 95 X for this, grew tired of having a car vs a 4x4 SUV) 1995 Explorer Sport (Traded the Taurus for this, had low miles, mint condition) 2002 Grand Am GT (Traded the Explorer for this after gas sky rocketted. Had every issue you could imagine) 2000 Explorer V8 Limited AWD (Drove this for awhile, then got my current job which is out of state) 2007 Focus Hatchback (Traded the Explorer for this, to save up some money on gas) 2004 Crown Vic LX Sport (Basically a Marauder Clone without the seats, center console gauges and motor) 2013 Charger R/T 2014 Patriot Latitude And now my 2009 Edge Limited AWD. Still have the Patriot, that was a lease, and the GF drives it. Traded the Charger in because of the terrible Winter we had that year. Would have never been able to make it to work! Anyways, the Edge is coming up on being my second longest owned vehicle. I love it, but I hate it. I love the styling, I love the power, the AWD is amazing in the Winter months, but there are so many issues it seems like. I regrettably didn't do any research before I saw it at the Ford dealer and bought it. The PTU issue alone would have turned me away, even though mines been fine (knock on wood.) Doesn't seem to be a hit with the girlfriend though, she laughs at it and calls it a "Dad car." (Im 22, she's 21), no kids. I guess it was a huge transition going from a "muscle" car to this, but thats the perks of having a far drive, vs her who works a few miles from home. I love the way it looks, and drives, but hate the brakes. This car has the worst feeling/poorest performing brakes I have ever felt, even compared to my old Explorers with 200k miles, and cheap Duralast pads/rotors. I have new pads on the way, and will be replacing the rotors soon as well. It seems another issue with these is the brake booster failing. Also, not a cheap easy fix. The PTU seems to cost people between $1500-$3500 and NEVER seems to fix the problem with it leaking, or not working. Seems like they are in and out of the dealer getting it replaced or repaired 2-3 times. If those 2 issues were fixed, I would recommend the Edge to friends in a heartbeat. I don't plan on keeping mine much longer, because I miss the sound of a big V8, and can definitely afford to buy a smaller car just for work now, but I want a larger SUV. Definitely want to get back in the music scene, as I miss having heart stopping bass, but the Edge is so small that I would lose my cargo space with any system I would install. However, if I do keep it, im planning on lowering it, upgrading from my 20" Forte rims, to 22" wheels (Something like the IROC style, simple and clean) and possibly a deep blue paint job.

First off, gotta thank this forum for helping me replace my CV Shafts and other various things on my Edge, thank you a ton! Im a DIY guy, but haven't wrenched on a car in a few years, so i'm a bit rusty. I needed new CV Axles due to the ABS tone ring being broke, and causing havoc, leaving me unable to drive, and disabling my AWD. I finally got the old one out (Drivers side) and new one in, but in the process of figuring out what I needed to disconnect to get the hub to move, I think I may have broke my tie rod end. The bolt just spins now. I had the nut off, but it was seized in the hub, so I threaded the nut back on and gave it a few swift hits with my mallet to get it out, and then when I went to loosen the nut, the whole bolt/joint just spins. I was able to clamp a pair of vice grips on to get it off, but now i'm assuming I need a whole new outer tie rod end? There were no issues with it before leading me to want to replace it, just this. Then, at the beginning, I thought I had to take the lower ball joint out and let the whole assembly kind of hang free, but realized my setup was different (Watched a few how-to's online, and thats what they did, but it wasn't on an Edge) I was taking the stabilizer bar link off, the stupid design where you need an allen key and open end wrench to get the nut off, and the inside of the bolt where the allen key goes is pretty stripped now. The bolt is halfway off the nut, so its loose as it sits now. (Not driving it yet, still waiting on my pads and rotors to come in this week) Id really rather not spend more money on parts at the moment because i'm tapped out to the max, but I need to get my car back on the road. Even if I do need to replace the sway bar link, how the hell do I get it off now...?

No kidding, didn't even pay attention to that. Thanks for sharing!

Yeah I noticed that too. Guess only time will tell, ill be happy with them if they get me through the Summer, (Dont see why they wouldnt) then if need be, ill be able to buy the "better" ones when I do all my balljoints and whatnot down there.

And can someone suggest a low-dust budget friendly pad? The pads it has now turn my white wheels black in a short day of driving, as well as whine when theyre cold.

(Edit) **I answered my own question after searching some more, AWD models have the larger diameter rotors