briandye

I love it. It takes a bit to configure (putting what info you want on each screen and what position) but it's definitely a fun little toy. It also reads/resets check engine codes and pending codes. You can set alarms such as engine temp, voltage, rpms, speed, and all the various info as well.

Yeah I'm getting readings as high as 220. It was a short 4~ mile drive but it was still warm from just a little bit ago. Gets between 210-220 and doesn't fluctuate much. Seems to drop a little when I let off the gas and coast to a stop like a stoplight or something. My needle doesn't ever leave the middle of the gauge (once it's warmed up) In the video im uploading to show the UG, I am driving primarily without heat on, cruise set at 45, and to see if there's a difference, I turn the heat on at one point, and once I'm in my driveway at the end, idling, I even crank the AC. At the end when I shut it off, you can hear that the electric fan(s?) were roaring like I asked about in another thread. BTW- Coolant temp shows up as "engine temp" there aren't two separate ones. Also, if it matters, it's about 47 degrees outside. Will share the youtube link when it's done uploading.

I'm gonna go out there and play with it again see if there's a difference with coolant temp, and then drive around. That's gonna drive me nuts if I don't.

Hmmmm that's what I thought, my UG is showing up to 213 degrees as the "Engine Temp" (don't know if there's a difference, but I believe it also has a coolant temp, but I didn't have it set to show when I was playing with it) This was while moving too. It was around 192 when I started (already warm) and idled for about 5 minutes then drove the course of my neighborhood and about a mile down the main road doing 45 or so and it continued to go up to said temp, didn't drop, didn't surge just a slow rise then I got back home and went in. Dash gauge showed normal, halfway up.

Don't know if anyone's familiar with these, see them all over other vehicle forums, but not here so I figured I'd share. (I had one back in 2011, but sold it after I bought an older vehicle it wasn't compatible with) These new ones have more gauges, as well as voltage readings which i was disappointed the first one didn't have. I ordered this one with the vertical mount for like $80 shipped. It's worth every penny to me to be able to monitor what this thing is capable of. I don't even understand 70% of the info it can tell me. It has 7 pages, up to 8 gauges per page. I only have 3 pages active right now, and 6 gauges per page. Haven't really messed with the configuration too much yet. You can check it out more at ultra-gauge.com they also have a full list of all the gauges which I believe is like 106 now. It just plugs into the OBD II port and powers on/off with the key.

Just out of curiosity, anybody know what the normal engine (and/or coolant) temp should be?

That's what I read online as well, but I found no such screw/valve anywhere in my engine bay.

Ended up being something related to the abs sensors on the front wheels. I think the correct name is the ABS Tone Ring, which is basically a speed sensor. It measures to make sure both wheels are spinning at the same rate, otherwise it kicks traction control on, or enables the ABS if you're braking, and apparently disables AWD too if the speed is uneven long enough. Replaced those, and all my issues are solved. (Replacing them meant replacing the CV axle on each side)

Ended up just finding out that when i flushed the coolant, I somehow replaced way less than I drained out. Lesson learned the hard way. I blame it on the pressurized system or whatever the Edge has. Done a million drain (or flush) and refills of coolant on previous vehicles and never had an issue. They all had a radiator cap though and burping the air out was as simple as just starting the engine with the cap off and topping off as neccesary.

Noticed when I got my Edge back on the road (09 Limited) in the carwash baby with it running, I heard a slight whistle noise. Didn't think much of it, but then noticed it again recently and it's bugging me. After searching online, it seems to be a vacuum leak, which makes sense. I have no experience with the vacuum system on a vehicle, nor how to check it. I saw some videos and they said to have the engine running, and spray some kind of parts cleaner, or starting fluid around all the vacuum lines to narrow it down (the RPMs should surge a bit where the leak is). I was just wondering if there are any common spots on the Edge where hoses or connectors might wear out to cause a leak? The only symptoms I have are in the mornings, my idle will drop a little lower than normal for a split second, then go right back to normal. Not a fast "surge" just a small dip and then back up. It ONLY does it at idle, if I touch the gas pedal at all enough to raise the RPMs then it will stop. I'll try that spray trick later on today and see if I can't track it down.

Yeah I've been watching the coolant level like a hawk, hasn't changed at all. Runs great, hot heat, cold AC, steady temp but I just don't remember those fans ever being on like that. Wouldn't think it'd need them when it's still cold outside (and I'm moving)

Hopefully I'm just over-thinking and worrying for no reason (since my overheat scare), but it seems like my cooling fans are running more than usual. I notice just about anytime I drive, once I get home and get out (I open the door within a second or two of turning the key off) my fans are shutting down. I know it's normal for them to run a split second or two after the engine is shut down, BUT I just don't remember them running as much as they do now. It's been averaging about 40 degrees (F) outside, so it's not hot or warm even. My drives are 99% highway, temp rises like normal and stays right in the middle on the gauge, is this just normal fan operation?

Nope. Of course that's a "reverse harness" that plugs into the factory radio for damaged stock wiring. S-O-A-B!

Scoshe doesn't ahve anything for wiring besides that $160 module, and antenna adapters. Metra had a whole slew of adapters when I type 2009 Ford Edge. I'm wondering if that 71-5520-1 and the sub adapter next to it would work? Those don't have a price of course but since they're basic harnesses I can't imagine over $30 for the pair. I guess I'll have to be the Guinnea Pig here and try them out.

Can anyone chime in who has done this install before? I was about to order that $30 harness, then searched more and found out that that's only PART of it. I would also need a $150 module with it! I don't care about keeping my steering wheel controls, just the factory sub and Id prefer the delayed accesory feature (where it stays on after I turn the key off) This seriously can't be the only option, a $180 wire harness?!?!

http://wwv.crutchfield.com/p_794HRRF01/iDatalink-Connec-HRN-RR-FO1-Factory-Integration-Adapter.html?tp=3486

Is this the wiring kit I need? I know I still need an antenna adapter and dash kit but I know which ones of those. I'm just confused because there's so many different wiring harnesses from $20 all the way up to almost $200.

I have a 2009 Limited, without Nav, but the standard radio with bluetooth and sync. I have the factory sub as well. I want to retain the factory sub and speakers, I don't care about the Sync, USB port etc. What do I need to install a new heaunit? (Wire harness, dash kit, antenna adapter?) Can someone link me up, because last time I looked, I couldn't find anything specific to my Edge setup.

akirby- Thats one of the forums I read over when I searched. Im sick as a dog right now so i'm not really feeling the whole "bundling up, going out in this lovely windy 5 degree weather and checking" right now, will post back later/tomorrow when I do check. macbwt- Thats kind of what I was figuring, its not perfectly balanced I suppose. Hopefully were wrong, and its that loose bearing/support, but after reading some more, I would put money on the damn axle. Of course I cant tell what side it comes from, so this is fun. Didn't wanna tear all this down again. I don't think the bolts on the outer tie rod ends are there enough to withhold being taken off and put back on again. Threads were pretty thin when I reinstalled them. Couldn't break them loose to replace them either though. Damnit. Oh well, if thats all it is, its gonna stay like that until Spring. My drive is all highway anyways.

That'd be a big bummer...they fit just as smooth as the OEM ones came out, looked identical as well. (Obviously minus the 100k of Michigan salt corrosion, lol) I don't really want to shell out the insane $200+ per CV for the Motorcraft ones

Had a similar issue recently, last time I "flushed" my coolant I took out a lot more than I put back in. Wasn't used to these new pressurized systems, so when I had thought I was "full" I was really at least a gallon low. Lost heat one morning going to work, and the car started overheating. Thought for sure it was the water pump, since I wasn't properly getting the air out of the system. Make sure you fill the bottle to the cold fill mark, run it til its at normal temp, then check the bottle again. If low, let it completely cool down, then add and start it again with the heater on full blast. (I was skimping out on that second part of letting it cool, so the bottle was still showing there was plenty)

Ive always been a user of the infamous SeaFoam, so with my Edge over 100k miles, id like to give her a treatment. Already got some in the crankcase, some in the gas tank a few tanks ago, and now id like to get it through a vacuum line. I read some people do it through the PCV valve, but on the Edge, we have to replace the valve if its removed, so I don't want todo that right now. The brake booster sure is hiding on this thing, I know where it is, and can see it, but it seems like the battery, and/or air intake is gonna have to come off to reach it, which seems like more work than its worth, because that'll need to be put back on to start it, then taken back off to reconnect the hose, then put back on again. Has anyone SeaFoamed their Edge before? If I can get some advice on where to get it in, id make a quick little how-to video for the YouTubers.

I changed my CV joints, as well as sway bar links recently, and now that i'm back on the road, i'm getting a pretty bad vibration that happens only at low speeds, and while accelerating. Usually between 15-30 MPH, and only when accelerating, never when slowing down, or slowly taking off. The best comparison I can give is when you drive over some of those rumble strips on the side of a highway. It never happens at any other speeds, and doesn't even happen every time. Those 2 factors are the only 2 common denominators I can find with it. I was searching around other forums, and some people said they replaced the CV axles and had the issue, and its because they were cheap replacements, but I cant imagine this being normal/acceptable from "cheap" parts. I haven't gotten back under to check, but I did read on ONE post on this forum about a bad bearing in the (Name slips my mind, the bearing that supports the passenger side CV, that you have to take off to swap joints), Im wondering if I possibly (Very doubtful, since I triple checked everything, but i'm only human) left those bolts loose. I hope its something simple like that.

2 more questions 1. Does windchill come into play with antifreeze? Like if it's -10 outside but "Real Feel" is -40, and my coolant was only rated to -35, should I worry? (Theoretically speaking, with random numbers of course) 2. How does one regain trust from their vehicle? What can I have her do to make me trust her again? (lol just playing) but it's seriously gonna take me a few long trips before I feel safe driving it again

I believe this is the same (or very close) to the one I have. One side shows freezing point, other side shows boiling point. http://www.amazon.com/Prestone-AF-1420-Antifreeze-Coolant-Tester/dp/B000BOA9RY#immersive-view_1424690589954