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About scguru92

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  1. If I remember correctly, it was approx. $400 for the rails at the dealer. I don't have a record of the part # any longer (should have put it in my original post I guess?) But it is the same rails that go onto an edge of your same year that came with them from the factory. Nothing different about them. They came all in one box- both rails as well as the pre cut trim pieces and hardware. It is really a very easy install for anyone the least bit handy, no special tools needed. I have had them installed for approx. 1.5 years with absolutely no issues. I carry kayaks and skis/snowboards on mine.
  2. They appear to be 6x8. I should have measured, but I only took pics. Part number on the back of mine is BT4T-18971-AA 4 ohms 25 watt If that helps.
  3. I dont think so? I took the door panel off to verify and found no evidence of a blown speaker. The mounting screws were not loose, but were a 1/4 turn looser than I would have made them. I snugged them up and it has been fine since. Odd, it sounded just like a blown speaker though. You may sell it to NKopp83. Thanks for replying though!
  4. My driver door speaker blew and I need to replace it. Anyone upgrade their OEM speakers and have one lying around that they would like to sell?
  5. No problem. With all the time and experimentation I did, I figured I would try and save someone else the same hassles. Since it was a very simple install once all was figured out. No cutting of the original rail covers is needed. The roof rails that you get from the dealer already have ones included that are cut. You can save your originals and even return it to stock in the future if you like. Good luck!
  6. Yes, just start from the back and gently pry up and keep sliding your fingers forward. Those 3 white clips are what holds the rail cover in place. No special tools needed. I used a screwdriver and put a small knick in my paint. Don't do that, just use your fingers.
  7. I looked around for quite a while for researching my options for roof rack needs on my 2011 Edge with vista roof. Hopefully this post will help out others that wish to do the same. Obviously there are the clamp on racks that attach to the door frames, those are always an option. There are the aftermarket installed rails that get riveted onto the roof. However I like the look of the Edge with the factory roof rails and pursued that route. Here are my findings and results: 1. The Ford factory roof rails WILL fit and is a very simple job to perform. Get the rails from your local dealer and follow the instructions, its a half hour job. No drilling required, you must use the provided self tapping screws to add 2 additional holes to what is already there from the factory, but drilling is not required. I believe these holes are already there at production and simply siliconed shut and painted over at assembly? It took very little pressure with a 1/4" ratchet to install the needed screws. 2. The Ford factory crossbars WILL NOT fit (unless you don't want to open your vista roof) So for the crossbars, I went with Thule Aeroblade edge 7503 crossbars. Besides the fact that I simply like how the aeroblades look the best, I also went with these because they have Thule's "T-track" mounting system. This system permits the accessories to be mounted entirely on top of the aeroblades as opposed to being clamped on and having hardware/knobs underneath the crossbar for the accessories. The 7503 crossbars permit full use of the vista roof with approx. 3/4" clearance at its closest point with the roof open. Just enough room to not worry about clearance issues yet not sit too high on the vehicle as to look awkward in my opinion. 3. From there you may select any Thule accessories that utilize the T track system or have an adapter kit to do so. Most accessories do have this ability. I selected a Hull-a-port pro folding kayak cradle and will be adding a snowboard carrier for next winter. I had intended on placing bicycles up there originally, but found the loading height to be a bit too high and awkward and foresaw an unfortunate expensive slip in the future. So I went with a hitch mount bike carrier instead. Attached are pics along the way. PS: Please patronize your local bike/ski shop, etc for the Thule purchases. Mine got me better prices than I could online and was very helpful along the process when I needed to experiment and return some pieces.
  8. I went with the Thule aeroblade 7503. They do not extend over the rails however like the ones you had posted a link to, so you do sacrifice some width.
  9. Really? So the clearance of the factory crossbars is the only issue? I ask because I have the vista roof and was researching and trying to figure out if the factory rails would work on the vista roof. I didn't see why they shouldn't, but could not find proof of this. Surfer1 could you please let me know where you got this confirmation or even better any pictures at all of it done? This is just what I wanted to do but was ready to give up on it and pay to have rack attack or rack n road install aftermarket rails. Thanks!
  10. Brilliant, I was hoping to find a solution to avoid running directly to the battery. Looks like your method has not given you any problems at all. I will copy you if you don't mind. Where is the easiest place to access the power lead to the rear lift gate?
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