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chipworkz

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  1. I noticed you posted the shift linkage adjustment procedure for an Edge awhile back. I have a 2013. They replaced the shifter under warranty but it’s doing the same thing now and I’d like to try myself now that it’s not under warranty. Can you post it again. It doesn’t open and when I download the link the file is empty. 

    Tag me in it or email it to me if you can. It would be much appreciated. 

  2. What color bulbs did you get with your order?
  3. As the others stated, it should just come off with a little help. Remove the wheel and tire. For additional information. NOTICE: Do not allow the brake caliper and anchor plate assembly to hang from the brake hose or damage to the hose can occur. Remove the brake caliper anchor plate bolts and position the brake caliper and anchor plate assembly aside. Support the caliper and anchor plate assembly using mechanic's wire. Remove the brake disc.
  4. The common issue I have seen people talk about with an HID high beam application is the warm up time. A lot of the time when you want or need high beams, you want or need them now so the warm up time doesn't work to well with high beams. This isn't a problem with the 2011+ since there is only one bulb and a shutter system for the high beams. If your primary use is driving a long distance in the middle of nowhere with your high beams on then the warm up time won't be as big of an issue. It is all based on how you will be using them.
  5. Look at my answer and previous post in the Puddle Lights thread.
  6. Did you look at my diagrams I attached just a few posts above on this page? The ground can connect to the nearest ground screw and the positive will need to connect into the Violet wire shown in the diagrams. You can either soldier the wires together or use a splice connector.
  7. I didn't buy the Morimoto system, just the XB 9012 bulbs. I have the Drive Bright ballasts which work fine, I just didn't like the bulbs that come with their system.
  8. I am against over moderation but I have to agree with this one. This is why I normally stay out of "Oil" threads. Lots of money is wasted on this subject but people have the right to change their oil every 500 miles if they want to. Some of the comments that were being made in that thread were just way off though. In this case, keeping it open was pointless.
  9. At first I was wondering what the heck you guys were talking about. I forgot I have Adblock Plus installed in Chrome so I don't see those ads.
  10. The rule I have always heard is 7 years from the date on the tire. Cracks in sidewalls or other defects should be considered of course but even if they look brand new, 7 years is the limit. Here is a write up on the subject which shows the age limit is between 6 and 10 years. http://www.edmunds.com/car-care/how-old-and-dangerous-are-your-tires.html
  11. The Ballasts work great, I have never had a light not start yet. The 6000K bulbs that come with the kit suck however. I just bought the Morimoto XB 9012 4500K bulbs and they get brighter way faster and are a lot brighter too. I had some buyers remorse with the kit until I added these bulbs. I am not sure how his 5000K bulbs compare but I hated the 6000K bulbs but couldn't be happier with these new 4500K bulbs.
  12. So as I said I really hated the 6000K bulbs that came with my DriveBright kit. I ordered the 9012: MORIMOTO XB 4500K bulbs and man what a difference! The bulbs that come with the kit can be bought for $15 or less online and these Morimoto bulbs cost $40. Regarding the Start Up time that I originally opened this thread for, well these new bulbs greatly improved this issue. Right from the start you can see these new XB bulbs get brighter faster. Not only do they get brighter faster, the are also much brighter as well. I did a quick drive around the block at dusk and with the 6000K bulb in the drivers side and the 4500K bulb in the passenger side, it looked like my drivers side light was out in comparison. I did another quick test drive after it was totally dark and the passenger side is definitely brighter and much more visible on the ground. Being 9012 bulbs instead of the 9006 that come with the kit they also install super easy just like the stock bulbs. I actually feel happy about the upgrade to HID lights now. With the 6000K bulbs I felt like it was a bit of a waste of money. This also showed me that bulb quality also plays a roll in the start up time.
  13. I have the DriveBright 6000K and I would NOT call it pure white at all. If you want pure white, I would suggest going more for a 5000K bulb not 6000K. The 6000K has a blue tint to them. I ordered some 4500K bulbs and they should be here any day so I hope I like them better than these 6000K bulbs. The DriveBright lights have a lifetime guarantee on the Ballast so if that is your concern then you shouldn't have to worry about these.
  14. No they have 5000K and 6000K, my kit came with the 6000K bulbs. The 6000K better matches their DRL's so the kit automatically comes with the 6000K's.
  15. Just make sure you don't get the 6000K bulbs unless all you care about is having blueish lights.
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