chipworkz

What color bulbs did you get with your order?

As the others stated, it should just come off with a little help. Remove the wheel and tire. For additional information. NOTICE: Do not allow the brake caliper and anchor plate assembly to hang from the brake hose or damage to the hose can occur. Remove the brake caliper anchor plate bolts and position the brake caliper and anchor plate assembly aside. Support the caliper and anchor plate assembly using mechanic's wire. Remove the brake disc.

The common issue I have seen people talk about with an HID high beam application is the warm up time. A lot of the time when you want or need high beams, you want or need them now so the warm up time doesn't work to well with high beams. This isn't a problem with the 2011+ since there is only one bulb and a shutter system for the high beams. If your primary use is driving a long distance in the middle of nowhere with your high beams on then the warm up time won't be as big of an issue. It is all based on how you will be using them.

Look at my answer and previous post in the Puddle Lights thread.

Did you look at my diagrams I attached just a few posts above on this page? The ground can connect to the nearest ground screw and the positive will need to connect into the Violet wire shown in the diagrams. You can either soldier the wires together or use a splice connector.

I didn't buy the Morimoto system, just the XB 9012 bulbs. I have the Drive Bright ballasts which work fine, I just didn't like the bulbs that come with their system.

I am against over moderation but I have to agree with this one. This is why I normally stay out of "Oil" threads. Lots of money is wasted on this subject but people have the right to change their oil every 500 miles if they want to. Some of the comments that were being made in that thread were just way off though. In this case, keeping it open was pointless.

At first I was wondering what the heck you guys were talking about. I forgot I have Adblock Plus installed in Chrome so I don't see those ads.

The rule I have always heard is 7 years from the date on the tire. Cracks in sidewalls or other defects should be considered of course but even if they look brand new, 7 years is the limit. Here is a write up on the subject which shows the age limit is between 6 and 10 years. http://www.edmunds.com/car-care/how-old-and-dangerous-are-your-tires.html

The Ballasts work great, I have never had a light not start yet. The 6000K bulbs that come with the kit suck however. I just bought the Morimoto XB 9012 4500K bulbs and they get brighter way faster and are a lot brighter too. I had some buyers remorse with the kit until I added these bulbs. I am not sure how his 5000K bulbs compare but I hated the 6000K bulbs but couldn't be happier with these new 4500K bulbs.

So as I said I really hated the 6000K bulbs that came with my DriveBright kit. I ordered the 9012: MORIMOTO XB 4500K bulbs and man what a difference! The bulbs that come with the kit can be bought for $15 or less online and these Morimoto bulbs cost $40. Regarding the Start Up time that I originally opened this thread for, well these new bulbs greatly improved this issue. Right from the start you can see these new XB bulbs get brighter faster. Not only do they get brighter faster, the are also much brighter as well. I did a quick drive around the block at dusk and with the 6000K bulb in the drivers side and the 4500K bulb in the passenger side, it looked like my drivers side light was out in comparison. I did another quick test drive after it was totally dark and the passenger side is definitely brighter and much more visible on the ground. Being 9012 bulbs instead of the 9006 that come with the kit they also install super easy just like the stock bulbs. I actually feel happy about the upgrade to HID lights now. With the 6000K bulbs I felt like it was a bit of a waste of money. This also showed me that bulb quality also plays a roll in the start up time.

I have the DriveBright 6000K and I would NOT call it pure white at all. If you want pure white, I would suggest going more for a 5000K bulb not 6000K. The 6000K has a blue tint to them. I ordered some 4500K bulbs and they should be here any day so I hope I like them better than these 6000K bulbs. The DriveBright lights have a lifetime guarantee on the Ballast so if that is your concern then you shouldn't have to worry about these.

No they have 5000K and 6000K, my kit came with the 6000K bulbs. The 6000K better matches their DRL's so the kit automatically comes with the 6000K's.

Just make sure you don't get the 6000K bulbs unless all you care about is having blueish lights.

Thank you pjsckett but do you have the Capacitor Links installed?

I have the DriveBright kit and the lights fire up and work every single time so that part is good. The bulbs that come with the kit appear to be cheap ones and you can buy them for under $15 online. Since I am buying bulbs to get rid of the awful 6000K anyway, I am tempted to just get the new Morimoto kit instead of just the bulbs. I would hate to spend the extra money though to have the same start up time but with a better light output color. One note is that I am not using the relay harness that came with the kit as they recommend to try it without it first and only use it if you have issues. The lights fire up every time so I never thought about using the harness. I guess I could try installing the relay harness just to see if it makes a difference in the start up time. Oh and pjsockett, have you had any issues with bulbs not firing up? Did you get the Capacitor Links with your kit?

So one thing that I am not crazy about with my new HID lights is the slow start up time. I swear it seems like a couple of minutes before they get to 100%. I can jump in my car and drive a mile and a half down to my local market and they still aren't at 100% by the time I get there. So is it my Ballasts or the bulb itself that would be causing this? From what I have read, it seems more likely to be the Ballasts. I am buying new bulbs no matter what since the 6000K light sucks but I am wondering if I should just get another complete system or not. Looking at the 9012 Morimoto system if I do. Thanks for the input!

2012 Ecoboost and I am very happy with mine too. It was an added bonus to have it in the car I bought and wasn't specially looking for it but I am glad I got it. I test drove two other limiteds with the 3.5 and I like the Ecoboost much better.

As far as the light not being on for the dealer to look at it, I am not too sure about that. Normally DTC codes are stored whenever something like this happens. Here is a thread on the subject. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/10972-issue-with-advancetrac-warning/

This might be helpful to you. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/15548-2012-dead-battery-procedure/?do=findComment&comment=118305 For the flashers, take a look at the attachment. Pinpoint Test Hazard Flashers.pdf

Congrats on the purchase! Now the fun begins...

Good luck on your hunt! I got my fully loaded SEL with only 10,800 miles on it for a couple thousand cheaper than I was finding base Limited's for so it was a no brainier for me. The Vista roof is really nice and I use it way more than any sun roof we have had in the past.

If you had to buy all the parts new then it would likely be more than the difference in price between an SEL an Limited. I am sure it is possible if you wanted to spend the money to replace everything but probably not cost effective unless you found a donor car and got everything really cheap. I was in your position and ended up getting an SEL. Replacing the speakers was the first step and made a big difference. I will slowly upgrade the system and happy I have my SEL.

TheWizard has a very good point. It takes a bit to get used to the light pattern these cars put out and just making it brighter may not give you what you are looking for. I was used to the old way of High Beams really making things brighter but with the shutter system and only one bulb in these cars, hitting the High Beams just opens the shutter and doesn't give the same feeling of being extra bright to me. It allows more light further down the road but up close doesn't change at all. It just takes a while to get used to it. If you do go with HID's I would advise you stay away from the 6000K bulbs. I drove across the desert which was pitch black and they sucked! Not worth the money to upgrade over the 9012 bulbs in my opinion in terms of light output. It started raining part way home on that same trip and I couldn't see squat with the 6000K bulbs! It was the strangest thing and I have never experienced anything like it. I couldn't even see the rain on the windshield or coming down in front of the car unless some light from an oncoming car or street light reflected off the water. I am replacing them with some 4500K bulbs that I hope I will like better.