ANDERSONBD

The woman I spoke with told me I had the best extended warranty plan there was. Then when i get there, the guy in service said that someone was mistaken because when he called the warranty place, I only had powertrain. He said the only way he feels comfortable diagnosing it is to put a genuine OEM Ford battery ($180). My brother works for a different dealership so he's going to get me one for $90, then I will bring it back to them and pay ANOTHER $110 for diagnosing IF the battery goes again (which it will). I also asked to see the Motorcraft battery warranty information, because right on their site it says "3 year free replacement, 100 month limited warranty". I then proceeded to be told that the warranty listed on the website is ONLY for purchased batteries, NOT batteries that come with your vehicle. Batteries that come with your vehicle are ONLY 3 years free replacement, no 100 month warranty (ridiculous). I just really feel like I'm getting the run around and every single opportunity to take my $110 diagnostic fee and just tell me to get bent. The guy definitely seemed extremely knowledgeable but it felt like he was super quick to just assume that it's the brand new battery's fault, rather than the vehicle. I'm pretty sure if a battery all of a sudden dies, you replace it with a 200 CCA higher version and it dies again within 3-4 weeks that you should take a little more in depth look. Yes, your battery testing machine shows that the battery is crapped out.. That's because my vehicle crapped it out and flushed it. With regards to this door latch BS, I've read all of the threads on here. I've tried spraying stuff in there but it didn't help. I didn't try the electronics cleaner. That's my next step. I was kind of hoping he'd be like "oh yeah, it's a typical issue and we replaced it. $150 / $200. Nope. Almost $500? You've got to be kidding me. That's the highest I've seen on this forum. I can't see why the Door Ajar latch is causing battery drain... I always double click my lock button which shuts everything off, even if doors are open or lights are on. With regards to: Is the WalMart battery a type 59 or 65 or ... Specs? I'm not sure. It was slightly larger than the current OEM battery, so I'm assuming a 65. I remember it having 6something for CCA's. As of right now I'm getting a battery from my brother (OEM Motocraft) and if this happens within the next few months, I'll let you guys know. Too bad I don't have the Walmart receipt anymore

So it looks like the original battery I pulled out is a "BXT-59-540" which apparently has a 36 month free replacement and a 100 month total warranty (whatever that means) so I'm going to try to push the fact that this battery failed miserably since "the charging system is working properly".

Hi Guys, first post here.. So I purchased a 2011 Ford Edge roughly 2 years ago. It was great until about 2 or 3 months ago. One day I came out to the car and the battery was dead. I jumped it and it was fine for a while. Then about 2 months later, it started saying "Low Battery" on the clock/radio and was starting a little rougher. Within 2 days, it was saying "Battery Saver" and then eventually just didn't start. I got out of the car, walked to the front and heard a LOUD rattling, like a rattlesnake inside the car. All the "HI PWR" black fuses were rattling so hard that they were vibrating everything. I quickly disconnected the fuse box because I was worried that an airbag was going to deploy or something. I had a brand new battery in the garage that I had purchased 2 weeks prior (by mistake for my boat - needed a deep cycle). COOL, what are the odds!?! So I put the new battery in, everything's perfect. Within 3-4 weeks it starts saying "LOW BATTERY" again on the clock. Within 1 day it was dead and refused to start again (This time it was saying "Check charging system"). *** By the way, I've also been having the stupid DOOR AJAR problem for about 6 months now *** So I called FORD service and explain the situation and give them my info. She tells me that my vehicle is still under warranty and even if it wasn't, that I had purchased the "best extended warranty that they offer". I bring the car in, explain everything, have to sign to agree that I will pay the $110 diagnosing fee, regardless of what they find. I get a call back within a few hours saying that my battery is bad (no $*, why do you think I brought it in?). It is a 1 month old battery that was brand new when put in the vehicle. Then he proceeds to tell me that the only way to properly diagnose it is to purchase the $180 Motorcraft battery, have them put it in, and then re-diagnose it. He tells me "This battery from Wal-Mart is a low quality battery and we can only properly diagnose it with a brand new high quality battery from Motorcraft". (I'm not sure why they'd assume that there's something wrong with a brand new battery and a prior 3 year old battery just dying instantly and not something electrical). He also informed me that I am completely out of warranty and the only thing the extended warranty covers is lubricated parts in the powertrain. (awesome). So it's going to be: $109.95 for diagnosis $180 for battery $479 for door latch replacement for Door Ajar (haha, F you buddy). This is a safety hazard to begin with. The doors won't lock when driving. Sounds like something a recall should take care of. I'm not really sure what my avenue should be. it's obvious that it's either something electrical or the alternator. A healthy battery shouldn't die in a month in a 3-4 year old vehicle. I'm not sure why they can't test my car with a battery that they have in the shop. I wonder if I bring my dead Motorcraft battery and drop it on his desk if he can test that "high quality battery" and see why it failed... I feel like my only avenue at this point is to either pay a bunch of money for them to do exactly what I just did (replace the battery), or to take it to a shop that will actually try to figure out what's wrong instead of blame it on a new battery. Thoughts?