HappyHourSport

Turned out great! just finished my first fiberglass box as well. What a pain!

Yeah, good luck on getting info on the 2015! I have electrical diagrams if you need them, but as far as panel removal, just tug and take your time.

I have am usually at 80 or above in Phx and haven't had any issue in my sport. Maybe check out the "active shutter system" maybe it was transitioning and caused a strange vibration? Don't ask me any more about them though, I am not sure what triggers them or the exact purpose. Can you duplicate it? Doesn't sound like a good thing.

I do have the factory enclosure on the passenger side but I also built a fiberglass enclosure for a JL 12 using the driver side bin as a mold. I will still probably keep the factory enclosure running unless I run into any canceling issues.

Oh mine are all hacked up already lol. I already had to build some supports for each side of the floor so my sub clears. I do plan on one more support of rigid foam attached to the underside of the floor to rest on the spare for heavy loads. Not sure when it changed, guessing 14 into 15, but there isn't JACK out there for the 2015. Broke down and got the electrical manual. Thank goodness, I was getting ready to rip off the passenger side planning to find it behind the sub. Wasn't really happy about guessing on panel removal also. But not to bad though.

Yeah there isn't much room back there on a 2015 either. I was able to squeeze the LC7i behind the factory amp and crossovers will be mounted in there also. My Alpine amp will be going the same place as yours. Looks good!

I have 2 12's downfiring in my f-150 about 1/2" off the floor. Subs don't care as long as they can move the air on the outside, nondirectional, and a grill through my floor would define the "hidden" idea. There is plenty of free air to move around under the seats and the floor, it also has about an inch of gap on the edges of the where I added the spacers. If I run into any issues I will be sure to update. Still trying to figure out if I should tap into the full range feed prior to the DSP or sum the signals after the DSP. I have read that on some systems the pre amp is flat levels without volume control.

I am sure it will vibrate but not rattle. Using rubber spacers helps. I plan on putting a rear mat down so that will help also. There is plenty of room to vent the output without causing pressure build up. More concerned about sound deadening the back hatch, and other rattley bits in there. I'll update if I finish it up and it sounds like ass.

Thanks! Definitely a learning experience. I see what custom boxes are expensive lol. Thinking I may just dive into getting to the DSP and door panels to test what the crossover points are heading to the front mids and tweets. I am assuming I can just use a voltmeter to test when signal heads out. Then I will see if I need to sum my channels in the LC7i. Curious if I can tap into one of the DVC feeds for the factory sub and still use it? Can you run a LOC with the speaker still hooked up?

Uploaded the wrong page, but it is the box next to the SODL module in that pic

Still waiting for info on interior panel removals. But if anyone needs it, here is the wiring for the 2015 Edge with Sony Premium wiring diagrams. http://imgur.com/a/Vz3rT

Currently waiting for more info on the 2015 interior trim removal before getting started on this. Just don't want to foul up any of my interior! But for anyone wanting to know, here is the wiring scheamatic for the 2015 Edge with Sony Premium sound. Happy to see I won't even be working behind the dash, seeing as the DPS is in the rear quarter panel driver side.

If it is like the 2015, it is in the rear driver side quarter panel.

I have had the rear gate lifted a few times when I return to the car. Took awhile to figure out it was the remote in my pocket. Haven't set off the horn, yet.

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/19317-new-build-2015-sport-stealth-jl-12-components-and-some-s/?do=findComment&comment=142340 I posted in the audio/nav section but wanted to ask a few things here. How do you remove door panels on the 2015's? I am getting ready to start and don't want to jack up my panels the first day. They are different than any guide I found on here. Any help? And other ?'s And so now for the questions and concerns I have. 1. I upgraded to the LC7i 6 channel because I was going to tap into the front and rear door outputs. But the more I look into the "Sony Premium" wiring it looks like the fronts have a separate line for the in door tweeter instead of tapping into the 6x8 using caps as cutoffs. I can only assume this means the 6x8 is getting Mid range Hz's and the tweeter is getting the highs, all the way from DSP. If that is the case, I don't want to tap into a limited frequency range for my pre amp wiring. Where is the DSP located? I have the actual 2015 edge wiring manual on the way, as I couldn't find a solid source for this year. I will be sure to share any info I come up with on this trip. 2. If I end up only taping into the rear doors (assuming they have a full range feed, suspect they have separate tweeters as well, hopefully piggybacked off mid), should I downgrade from the LC7i since I will lose any fading ability anyway? 3. How are you guys dealing with vibrations added by more power? I hooked up my box to my truck amp and was amazed at how much vibration I had coming from a $40K vehicle. The doors seem to be holding up to a lot right now so hopefully they wont be a problem, but that tail end all the way up to the mirror and dash vibrate like crazy. Going to have to get creative. I had even tried putting the sub on the deck, thinking I had made a horrible mistake by building the box onto the body, but "luckily" it was the same in a standard location. 4. Any suggestions on rear door speakers? Never seem to be a priority with me, as stock speakers sound pretty good amped up usually. 5. Tips and tricks? Hidden screws that will ruin my day when trying to take a panel off? How to stop your wife from killing you when she sees her interior ripped out? Number for a good attorney? Any thing good like that!

I was so glad when I found that bottom shield loose. It was killing me having my brand new sport rattle. Looks like I will need to do a more permanent solution than "push it back in" as it has returned! Frank, No chance that is the spare tire or jack tightened down enough? if you take the spare out, make sure the jacks screw is tight as well. I am adding a 12 in the back, so my rattles are just starting. Going to be fun tracking all of them down!

Glad I am not the only one having the touchy brake feeling. It does feel like it is getting a little better. Almost feels like there should be some lube on the pedal feed or something. ust a little bit, not enough, little bit more and your jaming the brakes!

Busy delivery day. Was able to get pretty good deals on everything. The JL components for 114 was the best. Any one have easy door panel removal instructions for the 2015. Mine is different then any I have seen on here, no grab handle to pop out first.

And so now for the questions and concerns I have. 1. I upgraded to the LC7i 6 channel because I was going to tap into the front and rear door outputs. But the more I look into the "Sony Premium" wiring it looks like the fronts have a separate line for the in door tweeter instead of tapping into the 6x8 using caps as cutoffs. I can only assume this means the 6x8 is getting Mid range Hz's and the tweeter is getting the highs, all the way from DSP. If that is the case, I don't want to tap into a limited frequency range for my pre amp wiring. Where is the DSP located? I have the actual 2015 edge wiring manual on the way, as I couldn't find a solid source for this year. I will be sure to share any info I come up with on this trip. 2. If I end up only taping into the rear doors (assuming they have a full range feed, suspect they have separate tweeters as well, hopefully piggybacked off mid), should I downgrade from the LC7i since I will lose any fading ability anyway? 3. How are you guys dealing with vibrations added by more power? I hooked up my box to my truck amp and was amazed at how much vibration I had coming from a $40K vehicle. The doors seem to be holding up to a lot right now so hopefully they wont be a problem, but that tail end all the way up to the mirror and dash vibrate like crazy. Going to have to get creative. I had even tried putting the sub on the deck, thinking I had made a horrible mistake by building the box onto the body, but "luckily" it was the same in a standard location. 4. Any suggestions on rear door speakers? Never seem to be a priority with me, as stock speakers sound pretty good amped up usually. 5. Tips and tricks? Hidden screws that will ruin my day when trying to take a panel off? How to stop your wife from killing you when she sees her interior ripped out? Number for a good attorney? Any thing good like that! It will be an adventure, I will try to take pics and document progress. All gear is on its way, should start this weekend.

Hello, New here but love the new edge sport I "got for my wife". I finally heard her say "It just doesn't sound as good as your truck" and I knew it was a go. Even though I have the Sony Premium sound, it just doesn't cut it. I planned a build using the left wet storage container as a mold for a shallow mount 12 and here it is. I will be installing: Alpine PDX-V9 (4x100 + 500x1 @ 2ohm) JL TW3 12" shallow mount Custom "First attempt ever at fiberglass/what the hell am I doing" box JL C2-650 6.5" component set for front doors LC7i 6 channel Line Output Converter As much sound deadener as I can cram in there, sounded like a tin can when I hooked up an external amp. The plan And so it begins My first attempt at fiberglass and I can tell you, use one set of clothes that stays outside, use solo cups, and it sucks but is worth it. Test fit, added a "structural support curvature" to the long section. Will have to fix that. That will do Have since fixed my nasty seam, a little better. With the deck on "under the hood" Plenty of clearance.Will probably end up putting a grill on it, but deck is very rigid, will add support in the middle near the spare also. Spacers are rubber stoppers epoxied together with a screw through it into the plastic frame.