fit1446

Yes

And bright AF

No worries, I do still have my edge. Although my audio system has been loooong upgraded and nothing is factory anymore. As far as the signal, you have to pick it up after the factory amp unfortunately. The signal pre amp is useless. I will say I didn’t have the Sony system I had the audiophile system which had an 8” sub under the passenger rear quarter trim. I think the Sony system has like 11 speakers or some shit like that? But I’m going to assume that similar to mine if you are adding an amp which I assume that’s what you are doing. You must get the signal after the factory amp then I would use like an lc7i or some sore of dsp. Then into your amp that your adding. If you need anymore help go over to the Facebook group FEWW. Ford Edge world wide. I don’t come into this forum much and I’ll get more notifications in the group.    Absolutely hilarious… I thought this was directed towards me… it’s not even my post??. Sry to whoever asked the question I didn’t even look at who the OP was. I had gotten a notification and assumed it was one of my old audio posts. My bad.

It is def something you can do yourself if you have any basic mechanical skills. Just support the trans using a hack and wood block. While the mount was off I did manipulate the height to access the bolt in the back of mount. It is a tight place on that one bolt but it wasn’t difficult it was just time consuming. That particular mount took me 2.5 hrs and the other 2 mounts were simple took about 1 hr each. I highly recommend getting a 13mm box E.N.D. ratcheting wrench. 

2010 edge. edge runs great and always has. i take care of it and it has treated me very very well. ill admit i have driven my edge hard,at one point i did spray 100 shot of nitrous but only for a short while and then removed the system. i have had this annoying vibration at idle when in gear,to the point i felt like it was going to die at times while stopped at a light. i proceeded to go tghru the basics first..plugs/cleaned throttle body,i do have the ability to monitor computer function thru a couple software programs i have as well as data log with my sct device. i changed the bank one o2 sensor and none of these fixed the issue. i moved to mounts..the gen 1 and 1.5 have 3 mounts. transmission torque mount which is located under the vehicle you could say on the driver side..ive listed the picture of that mount below. it was completely seperated and i felt for sure this was it..i installed the new mount and it did not fix issue.although i could tell a noticable difference when selecting gears and how much movement i could feel in motor/trans. i then went to the motor mount located on the passenger side next to the coolant overflow tank. this mount was pretty worn but nothing extreme. after install nothing changed. very frustrated at this point. there is one more mount which is titled a "transmission mount" located under the battery box on driver side. i hadnt replaced this mount yet because i felt its purpose and location it couldnt be bad after 80,000 miles......well....i posted some pics of this mount below as well... needless to say,this mount was the main cause of the vibration. after installation the vibration is compoletely gone.so if you are dealing with a vibration issue at idle this is my experience. hope this helps a gen 1 or 1.5 owner in the future.. side note..the first 2 mounts were extremely easy to replace. this trans mount is in a tight spot and i highly recommend you get a 13mm box end ratcheting wrench. and have some patience. not hard just awkward and slow considering ford put enough locktight to hold the bolts solid forever. 

4 hours ago, vtchopperdude said:

Ok, maybe I'm a dummy, but I feel that I'm am above average when it comes to doing mechanical stuff. So, I have the EcoBoost, and there is only 1 giant fan, not 2 fans. And the giant fan spins immediately once the car is turned on with the AC going. Is it variable speed? Is that something that I should check for?

yes,yours does have a single fan. if it wasnt running im pretty sure youd know because that thing would be overheating... 

56 minutes ago, WWWPerfA_ZN0W said:

If not buying Motorcraft, keep the old OEM module.  You can put it on the new assembly, instead of the one that came with it.

 

Failure of the module is extremely rare, and if you look at how new ones are priced, you end up buying the whole assembly.  LOL

the module on the new assembly i purchased was wired differently to the fans. the ford module has 2 seperate harnesses one to each fan..the assembly i purchased has one harness out of the module and it splits to both fans. i however def agree that purchasing a motorcraft assembly is best. i unfortunately had to go the inexpensive route this time as i had multiple things to replace.

On 8/20/2020 at 7:31 PM, Nick Halstead said:

Wetsanded both fenders and got them polished and coated. Im only doing a panel a day off and I have a hellcat and widebody charger coming in for paint correction and ceramic/graphene coatings so this will be last work the edge sees for a minute unless someone canclea

wow..... your really good at that shiny paint stuff. are you a painter?

1 hour ago, vtchopperdude said:

How difficult was replacing the fan assembly? My Edge is doing the same thing! When sitting idle or coming to stop at a traffic light, the AC starts blowing warm air. We JUST had the system recharged, but they didn't say anything about the fan having issues. I'm thinking this is what's going on. Is it obvious if the fan assembly isn't working properly or cycling correctly, or would I need a code scanner?

super easy... i removed the air box / there are 2 bolts holding the fan assembly in place ( i beleive 8mm). can reach them both easily.disconnect the plug from the fan module and remove the whole assembly. it is a little tight to get out, and also recommend removing the oil dipstick before you attempt to remove the assembly. i broke mine and have new one ordered. there are a couple youtube videos online. have to lift on the driver side of the fan assembly and kind of slide up and out. its tight but not difficult. when you put the new assembly in make sure it is slid into the tabs at the bottom. i got fan assembly from amazon for 145.00

Havnt posted in the forum for a while... Been putting off some important maintanance for to long just due to this crazy summer here in Az. its been consistantly over 112 degrees for a couple months. saw a brake in the weather ..it was only 100 today so i thought id tackle some things. my A/C has been overheating when stopped and forscan had a code that the module had failed. replaced fan assembly first this morning. only casualty was the dipstick handle..should have pulled it out before maneuvering assembly out. have had a knock from the passenger side suspension when going over bumps and could feel the noise in the floorboard. replaced lower control arm rather than pressing a balljoint. honestly makes no sense to not just replace the whole control arm..it takes about 30min and the cost of a moog arm is like 100 bucks. driver side cv axel blew apart a few weeks ago and covered the wheel and and suspension parts with grease... replaced that cv axel and suprisingly it was an easy one. all said and done i spent approx 5-6 hrs total which isnt bad considering i didnt have a lift and i used hand tools. feeling accomplished for sure. 

25 minutes ago, enigma-2 said:

Years ago i had my 09 in for something (my have been an oil change). Mentioned I had a soft pedal. When I got the car back an hour later had a hard pedal. Asked what they did and said something about bleeding something in the brake system. Wasn't the brakes, something near the booster. Whatever it was they didn't charge for it. 

probably the abs module...it is down below the master cylinder.requires access to abs bleed option with a diagnostic tool. i can get into it with forscan but it would be a task to do it by myself. i have a strong feeling that there is a valve stuck open in that module.

Well,looks like im another Edge owner left to throw parts at the braking system to try and figure out why i have no pedal.2010 edge. pedal was super hard so replaced booster. of course the brake switch plunger didnt come back up so had to replace that too. but now i have the INFAMOUS.... "brake pedal is soft and continues to the floor" could it actually be the master cylinder? or am i destined to throw money at the obvious causes of a soft pedal only to find out it may be an abs issue... wheel speed sensor,caliper not functioning properly, air stuck in the abs module...i took it out yesterday onto a gravel road to engage abs several times. didnt change anything. i have been reading threads now for an hour and watching a couple youtube videos...i have forscan so i have the ability to do an abs bleed,although im contemplating letting the dealer do it just because i know its a huge pita to do it by myself. pretty sketchy driving with a shit brake pedal. anyone want to be the pedal pumper?

I no longer have this in my edge. I built a custom fiberglass enclosure that fits in factory location. It holds a 10W6V2. The enclosure I modified was sold to a member of Ford Edge world wide. But to answer your question on sound.. when I modified the plastic enclosure I was using an LC7I and cant remember what amp? Its been a while and Im old? it sounded good not great. 100 times better than the factory set up.

Ok, so after about 6 months upon installing the actual K&N CAI made for my 2011 Ford Edge, no check engine lights ever,

and average fuel economy, based on my aggressive driving, has been around 11.5L/100km, with mostly hyqy driving.

It's a very quiet ride, until you floor the pedal, which sounds amazing, and just want to hear more of it, resulting in more gas!!

It sounds like it makes a difference to throttle response, but only at higher rpm's and speed, and minimal at best, more bark than bite.

However, I tried on a couple of occasions to see if the CAI actually makes a difference to fuel economy. I drove for around 40km at 98kph,

or ~ 60mph. I actually achieved 6.7L/100km, or just over 40mpg!! Hard to believe, but when I first bought it brand new, I was averaging

7.3L/100km or 37mpg, same speed and road conditions. I can't believe it actually had some improvement, but needless to say, I won't be driving at a steady 98kph

for long periods of time, unless the price of gas goes up 50 cents/liter!

 

After almost 6 years and over 100,000km, this Edge has been very reliable, and have been really happy with it.

In the last 6 months I've been searching for a new suv, and have looked and driven everything from Porsche, BMW, Acura, Mazda, and others,

only to come back to Ford. I believe I'm close to making a decision, and looks like I'll go with either a 2017 or 18 Ford Edge Sport, in black, with 21" wheels,

and all options. Will purchase towards the end of the year when I'm more likely to get ~ $13,000 off list. With my current Edge, I was able to get $12k off list (SEL with leather, pana, and nav), plus all rubber liners and mats, life time oil changes for free, and a trip for 2 to Vegas which included air and hotel! (Yes, I will charge for coming with you to make a deal)

So your saying that through your experience you calculated a 3mpg increase. All be it realistic or not.. this was your "experience" correct?

your edge is 2013? Livernois has nothing for you. Neither does the aftermarket world. Almost anything you do will be 100% custom. If you have the 2.0 Ecoboost, you have ZERO tuning support and outside of a standalone engine management system wont get any support. But yes, HnR makes springs that barely lower the 07-14 Edge, and Rotora makes a big brake kit that is currently on clearance.

 

Nick, this has to be the same guy...

Poof... he has disappeared

Making hp is the easy part. Open your wallet to get it to the ground reliably.

Can you give us a list of the mods you plan on doing when you start the build?

Nice

Cool

 

Isn't the code burned into permanent memory? And, aren't the codes in the BCM, not the SJB?[/quote

 

It may be permanent . I would still check in forscan. It may be as built tho.

I am not positive but you may be able to change through forscan in the module. if not you def have the option of turning easy entry off

Got it figured out. Ty to the thousands of members for the help. :-)

bump

Hello all!

Wish I would have read how fast Vista roof is supposed to open so I could have addressed problem earlier.

I was driving and came upon severe weather. Tried to close Vista roof it wouldn't close. Torrential downpour so while holding close button I forced it with other hand to close (sorta) it closed the gap but is not down in the sealed position. How can I fix this? Praying I didn't completely mess it up.

you need to open the glass back all the way,clean and lube tracks.i personally at this point would remove the glass.i have done this personally several times on my gen 1.if you need help..bill trammel has a fb group called mactforedge. he has made several videos on youtube one of which is on removing the vista glass and cleaning all parts and lubing. then u need to re initialize to set correctly in track.

I have a dtc that sets upon movement of about 3-5 feet. Doesn't matter direction forward /reverse. Abs module and sasm both store DTC's that are not present at time of connection to forscan but store in modules. Hoping someone can advise on further troubleshooting to confirm module replacement or speed sensor failure. Ty in advance for any help. I have more specific symptoms I can give if it will help