Jump to content


Edge Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by fit1446

  1. fit1446

    Traction control

    Having an issue with traction control disabled light coming on all the time even if it is enabled. I can engage, disengage once vehicle is started but on ignition cycle the light comes on as if it is disengaged, when it actually is engaged. Anyone else have this issue? 2010 limited 3.5 fwd
  2. Here a write up on changing the display color for your gauge cluster. this particular one was done on 2010 limited. before we start you can literally choose any color you like..if you want green,great job.....you are done! 1 take a picture of your gauges with ignition off. take each seperate if neccessary to get a close up of exactly where needle position is. not always right at zero.and i dont know about you but that plus or minus 3-4 could make a difference on the speedometer in particular. 2 remove steering column opening trim panel. 2 10mm bolts and it pulls out .4 retainer clips 3 remove instrument cluster finish panel. 2 screws at the base. make sure to lower your tilt to the full down position. seperate the column trim by pressing in on the sides of the top piece and lifting upward.disconnect one harness plug for rear hatch and remove. 4 remove instrument cluster.4 7mm bolts and 1 harness plug and remove 5 remove plastic lens from gauge cluster. 1 phillips screw in the back and carefully seperate the tabs. yes i broke one,luckily it was repairable. ok here is the fun part,just be patient. 6 there are several tools i have seen used to remove the dials from the gauge cluster..two spoons,one on each side and pry them off...another used a fork although his was a picture and i didnt actually see it happen....i wasnt in the kitchen when i did this so i chose to use a hook pick.carefully use whatever tool will allow you to just get under the edge of the dial and pry it up. these are not quite as flimsy as i thought but yes they will break. 7 once all 4 dials have been removed there are 4 round retaining clips at each gauge..again i used a small pick to pry these out. 8 remove the plastic trim and if you are going to finish this project before driving your car,great set the gauge assembly in a safe place away from your work area.if you plan on going somewhere you will need to temp install this unit back in your edge..just reconnect the harness plug and the 4 screws. it wont start without this unit in the car and connected..this is essentially where your car communicates all together. 9 you will need to sand away the parts of the trim where it shows green when light is behind it..i used wet sand both 600 amd also 1000 grit..just take your time once again and you must get ALL the green off.i left the red as i wanted the max and high levels to be different...u can also make these any color you choose..double check and triple check to ensure that all of the green is gone.. i also used a very sharp razor blade or an exacto would work also to cut out the green display screen in front of the info center..then i cleaned edges with a dremil. if you are unsure of your skills with a dremil..dont use it! it is very easy to take away to much material.. 10 tape off the parts of the trim u want to keep clear or red or i believe there are a few that are yellow leds on the actual board of gauge cluster..if you want to change the color of the yellow you will need to change the actual leds on the board..if you dont think u can or question your ability at all to do this..DONT DO IT! it will require a steady hand and a good soldering iron with the right tip and the correct heat level.. 11 so now you need to pick your color..or colors...if green is your choice and you have completed steps up to this point..well then you are an idiot and probably need help tying your shoes in the morning..ok ok im jk... there are two options you can use to get your color..i used both.. first u can get lighting gels which are used for stage lighting and come in a variety pack. i purchased 1 pack of like 15 different colors. they are 10x10 sheets and i got this pack at guitar center or u can order online..also you can use testers transparent spray enamel..they have at hobby store but limited in colors but the basics are certainly there..i tried using just the gels at first but any type of adhesive i used would remove the gel color and it looked like crap..but the color from gels in my opinion is much deeper and better than the testers enamel..note :the gels can be secured with hot glue but in the case of the gauges you will notice you are limited on space and if the glue oozes out the front its going to look like crap...so my solution was to spray two coats of the testers enamel and on the third coat literally while paint was still wet i layed the gels i had cut to fit right into the wet enamelit actually worked quite well and the two different sources together gave me a nice shade of blue...let it dry completely and peal your masking tape. the display you cut out in front of the information screen i just cut an oversized gel and hot glued it behind the trim..u have plenty of room to use hot glue here. basically you are ready to reassemble...just make sure all your color edges are good..a couple color changes from blue to red are extremely close so i did trim a bit with a very sharp blade.. just reverse your removal process and make sure to set your gauge needles exacty where they were ..refer to your pictures . hope this helps someone..its really not that difficult..and i spent i think about 30 bucks on whole project..
  3. No worries, I do still have my edge. Although my audio system has been loooong upgraded and nothing is factory anymore. As far as the signal, you have to pick it up after the factory amp unfortunately. The signal pre amp is useless. I will say I didn’t have the Sony system I had the audiophile system which had an 8” sub under the passenger rear quarter trim. I think the Sony system has like 11 speakers or some shit like that? But I’m going to assume that similar to mine if you are adding an amp which I assume that’s what you are doing. You must get the signal after the factory amp then I would use like an lc7i or some sore of dsp. Then into your amp that your adding. If you need anymore help go over to the Facebook group FEWW. Ford Edge world wide. I don’t come into this forum much and I’ll get more notifications in the group. Absolutely hilarious… I thought this was directed towards me… it’s not even my post😂😂. Sry to whoever asked the question I didn’t even look at who the OP was. I had gotten a notification and assumed it was one of my old audio posts. My bad.
  4. so ive never been a big fan of 8" subs...the difference in sound between an 8" sub and even a 10" is huge to my ears.so options for the edge are as follows...u can accept the system that you have in your edge now....bye a stelth box with JL audio 10..... Build your own fiberglass enclosure......or...you can modify your factory enclosure to accept a 10" shallow mount sub! i know the enclosure is tech to small for even a shallow mount..but not by much. here is how i modified the plastic enclosure step by step. it is in the car and finished and it sounds awesome for a small enclosure...i will eventually build a box but am very pleased with this finished product for now. first i only found one sub that was close enough in dimensions to even try this. i used a kicker comp R dvc 10 2ohm. you will need to make a ring out of 3/4" MDF any less than 3/4 the enclosure is to shallow,any more than 3/4 your quarter panel will touch the surround.yes,its that close. for the kicker the ring dimensions are 9 1/8" inside and 10 1/2" outside,i used a divider caliper i got from harbor freight for like 9 bucks...carbide tip marks well on most any surfaces. jigsaw to cut ring or router if u have one.sand ring smooth corners. the ring should fit flat along the ridge that travels arond the enclosure.there is a very small piece i had to cut where the mounting arm is on the oposite side..ill post pics of all this..i cut out with a cut off wheel on my dremil..but the ring will cover the hole perfectly and will seal at the end of the mod. after you cut the piece out from the mounting arm the ring should sit flat all the way around. place the ring under the sub frame and mark the mounting holes for the sub on the ring.. place the ring on the enclosure and drill holes with counter sink bit ..i drilled two and put screws in right away to secure ring.once the ring is secure to enclosure cut out plastic inside the ring..i stayed 1/4 inch away from inside of ring so i had a good lip to seal with silicone on the inside as well as outside ring. i painted the ring black just because i wanted it to match,,do whatever u like. silicone bead around bottom of ring and secure to enclosure. tool the silicone inside ring and around outside.. set driver in and if u didnt paint your matks from before will still be there if you paint remark hole and pre drill...mount sub into enclosure and go hook it up! hope this is useful to someone...i havnt seen anyone put a ten in that plastic box ..it isnt permanant in my edge..i will make a fiberglass box eventually but for now..it cost me maybe 25 bucks in material and whatever you pay for your driver,,,enjoy! anyone want to buy a polk audio 8" dvc?
  5. 2010 edge. edge runs great and always has. i take care of it and it has treated me very very well. ill admit i have driven my edge hard,at one point i did spray 100 shot of nitrous but only for a short while and then removed the system. i have had this annoying vibration at idle when in gear,to the point i felt like it was going to die at times while stopped at a light. i proceeded to go tghru the basics first..plugs/cleaned throttle body,i do have the ability to monitor computer function thru a couple software programs i have as well as data log with my sct device. i changed the bank one o2 sensor and none of these fixed the issue. i moved to mounts..the gen 1 and 1.5 have 3 mounts. transmission torque mount which is located under the vehicle you could say on the driver side..ive listed the picture of that mount below. it was completely seperated and i felt for sure this was it..i installed the new mount and it did not fix issue.although i could tell a noticable difference when selecting gears and how much movement i could feel in motor/trans. i then went to the motor mount located on the passenger side next to the coolant overflow tank. this mount was pretty worn but nothing extreme. after install nothing changed. very frustrated at this point. there is one more mount which is titled a "transmission mount" located under the battery box on driver side. i hadnt replaced this mount yet because i felt its purpose and location it couldnt be bad after 80,000 miles......well....i posted some pics of this mount below as well... needless to say,this mount was the main cause of the vibration. after installation the vibration is compoletely gone.so if you are dealing with a vibration issue at idle this is my experience. hope this helps a gen 1 or 1.5 owner in the future.. side note..the first 2 mounts were extremely easy to replace. this trans mount is in a tight spot and i highly recommend you get a 13mm box end ratcheting wrench. and have some patience. not hard just awkward and slow considering ford put enough locktight to hold the bolts solid forever.
  6. fit1446

    annoying vibration at idle

    It is def something you can do yourself if you have any basic mechanical skills. Just support the trans using a hack and wood block. While the mount was off I did manipulate the height to access the bolt in the back of mount. It is a tight place on that one bolt but it wasn’t difficult it was just time consuming. That particular mount took me 2.5 hrs and the other 2 mounts were simple took about 1 hr each. I highly recommend getting a 13mm box E.N.D. ratcheting wrench.
  7. yes,yours does have a single fan. if it wasnt running im pretty sure youd know because that thing would be overheating...
  8. the module on the new assembly i purchased was wired differently to the fans. the ford module has 2 seperate harnesses one to each fan..the assembly i purchased has one harness out of the module and it splits to both fans. i however def agree that purchasing a motorcraft assembly is best. i unfortunately had to go the inexpensive route this time as i had multiple things to replace.
  9. wow..... your really good at that shiny paint stuff. are you a painter?
  10. super easy... i removed the air box / there are 2 bolts holding the fan assembly in place ( i beleive 8mm). can reach them both easily.disconnect the plug from the fan module and remove the whole assembly. it is a little tight to get out, and also recommend removing the oil dipstick before you attempt to remove the assembly. i broke mine and have new one ordered. there are a couple youtube videos online. have to lift on the driver side of the fan assembly and kind of slide up and out. its tight but not difficult. when you put the new assembly in make sure it is slid into the tabs at the bottom. i got fan assembly from amazon for 145.00
  11. Havnt posted in the forum for a while... Been putting off some important maintanance for to long just due to this crazy summer here in Az. its been consistantly over 112 degrees for a couple months. saw a brake in the weather ..it was only 100 today so i thought id tackle some things. my A/C has been overheating when stopped and forscan had a code that the module had failed. replaced fan assembly first this morning. only casualty was the dipstick handle..should have pulled it out before maneuvering assembly out. have had a knock from the passenger side suspension when going over bumps and could feel the noise in the floorboard. replaced lower control arm rather than pressing a balljoint. honestly makes no sense to not just replace the whole control arm..it takes about 30min and the cost of a moog arm is like 100 bucks. driver side cv axel blew apart a few weeks ago and covered the wheel and and suspension parts with grease... replaced that cv axel and suprisingly it was an easy one. all said and done i spent approx 5-6 hrs total which isnt bad considering i didnt have a lift and i used hand tools. feeling accomplished for sure.
  12. Well,looks like im another Edge owner left to throw parts at the braking system to try and figure out why i have no pedal.2010 edge. pedal was super hard so replaced booster. of course the brake switch plunger didnt come back up so had to replace that too. but now i have the INFAMOUS.... "brake pedal is soft and continues to the floor" could it actually be the master cylinder? or am i destined to throw money at the obvious causes of a soft pedal only to find out it may be an abs issue... wheel speed sensor,caliper not functioning properly, air stuck in the abs module...i took it out yesterday onto a gravel road to engage abs several times. didnt change anything. i have been reading threads now for an hour and watching a couple youtube videos...i have forscan so i have the ability to do an abs bleed,although im contemplating letting the dealer do it just because i know its a huge pita to do it by myself. pretty sketchy driving with a shit brake pedal. anyone want to be the pedal pumper?
  13. probably the abs module...it is down below the master cylinder.requires access to abs bleed option with a diagnostic tool. i can get into it with forscan but it would be a task to do it by myself. i have a strong feeling that there is a valve stuck open in that module.
  14. I no longer have this in my edge. I built a custom fiberglass enclosure that fits in factory location. It holds a 10W6V2. The enclosure I modified was sold to a member of Ford Edge world wide. But to answer your question on sound.. when I modified the plastic enclosure I was using an LC7I and cant remember what amp? Its been a while and Im old? it sounded good not great. 100 times better than the factory set up.
  15. So your saying that through your experience you calculated a 3mpg increase. All be it realistic or not.. this was your "experience" correct?
  16. fit1446

    The first heavily modded edge?

    Nick, this has to be the same guy...
  17. fit1446

    The first heavily modded edge?

    Poof... he has disappeared
  18. fit1446

    The first heavily modded edge?

    Making hp is the easy part. Open your wallet to get it to the ground reliably.
  19. fit1446

    The first heavily modded edge?

    Can you give us a list of the mods you plan on doing when you start the build?
  20. I am not positive but you may be able to change through forscan in the module. if not you def have the option of turning easy entry off
  21. Got it figured out. Ty to the thousands of members for the help. :-)