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fit1446

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Posts posted by fit1446

  1. Wow, I am so responding to ddchristian72 need for that recall. As an owner of a 2008 Edge often experience problems with the roof and have tried basically everything. I refuse to be suck in by Ford Dealers and their need to strip the pockets of owners who bring in the vehicle for routine maintenance and spend too much. I recently learned from past employed mechanics that Ford does not troubleshoot they are trained to remove and replace the part. So, the job may take 20 mins and the owners are charged for 1 hour labor. I also notice that you can never see what they are doing but are quick to say you need something when you just brought in the car for a recall. Like the recent Airbag Recall I was told I needed some repairs and I refused to leave it. Knowing they cant charge for the recall so they want to drum up business to compensate for their lost on that certain vehicle. I also demand that Ford recall the vista sunroof and repair the faulty motors that cause the defect. NOTE: FORD SOONER OR LATER YOU MUST RESPOND TO THE NEED OF THE PUBLIC.

     

    The motor is not the issue. I have a 2010 , have owned it for 3 yes now and after approx 4 months of ownership my vista roof began slowing on close, it escalated to the point I needed to assist it shut then eventually it would stop. It is true, the motor does heat up. But the cause of this is the issue with the tracks being so long and binding occurs due to lack of lubrication and dirty components. I have never taken it to dealership because as you stated.. I already knew that dealerships don't make money for spending time trying to diagnose a known issue when they already know what is wrong and them charging you to lubricate tracks is only a bandaid . So I researched and found a video on how to clean and lube tracks. It worked ok. So I then decided I am going to take this thing apart and see how it works / how to fix it. I pulled glass removed the guides and the Teflon feet that slide in the tracks ... I cleaned all of thoroughly, the feet the tracks all of it! It is so much easier w the glass off. My roof has functioned fine. Yes it is a bit slower than when it was new but fords standard is a 12sec close and I am well under that. There is a video that is on YouTube made by bill trammel from Mact Ford Edge showing how to perform this MAINTANANCE. Procedure.

    • Like 1
  2. Hello everyone, I'm new to the group and the Ford Edge. My Explorer was totaled after a gentleman decided to do an illegal U-turn in front of me. I opted to try a 2013 Edge SEL AWD as it's replacement. I am a fire chief and having difficulty finding a suitable location to mount the siren speaker on the front of my Edge. Has anyone had experience with this on here? Thanks in advance for the assistance.

     

    these things are tight for space...I have struggled since I purchased to find places to mount components. but as has alred

    ady been said..behind the bumper cover will probably be your best location for that item.

  3. Good morning. I've mentioned in another thread that I was undergoing an HID projector retrofit. Due to the limited amount of time I had to work on it at any given moment, I didn't take any progress pictures. If anyone is interested in doing a similar retrofit, feel free to ask any questions and I'll do my best to answer them.

     

    Back in November, during TheRetrofitSource.com's Black Friday special, I bought the Morimoto D2S III Mini kit. It includes everything you need to complete a retrofit, other than the butyl rubber needed to seal the lights back up. You could use silicone, but the butyl is so easy to work with and will make opening the lights back up, if needed, so much easier.

     

    I'll say that opening the factory lights, or even aftermarket lights, is not quick or easy. This takes a lot of self control. My first attempt was on the factory light, right off of our Edge. It didn't go well.... at all. I managed to crack the chrome bezel inside the light, tore up the channel that holds the glue that seals the lens to the housing, and still never got the entire lens off. I siliconed it back together and did some more research. Found out I wasn't heating my oven up high enough, or for long enough. The 'permaseal' glue wasn't getting hot enough to even remotely soften, so it was like trying to work with hardened concrete. 270*F at 17 minutes is the sweet spot, and even then, you've got to work quickly and put the light back in the oven for a few minutes at a time to keep the glue semi-soft.

     

    Anyway, I started over with an aftermarket light and was successful. Took me a couple months to order the other housing and then another month or so to retrofit that light. I just finished a couple weekends ago, and here are the results.

     

    Feel free to ask any questions or provide your comments.

     

    Thanks,

    Mark

     

     

    What shrouds are those?

  4.  

     

    Ah hah... I didn't look over the diagram for the rears. I guess I assumed they'd be wired the same as the fronts. It looks like maybe there is a crossover that the full signal runs to for the rears (rectangular shape "behind" the lower woofers) and the signal is distributed from there to the upper and lower drivers. I assume this is in the doors, but it may well not be. I'm looking over the parts diagrams on Ford's site and I haven't found anything yet that suggests what it could be or where it is. They do use the same woofers for front and rear though.

    the factory audiophile system that was in my 1st gen edge had a module that controlled sync as well as audio sound functions. would be unlikely that ford would put 4 seperate crossover devices in the doors...but the real focus is,,,no big deal for you!! since the mid range driver and the tweeter locations are both inside your door it will be an easy install for your new components using the crossover supplied with your new speakers!! your kind of lucky your tweeters are not in the pillars...have you ever looked at trying to run new wires through the bulk head in the doors???? not sure about your 2nd gen but it literally would require removing my doors to drill new holes.. total nightmare,, luckily for me when i did my audio system the factory wiring is set up for a compnent system..unlike the later models such as yours. hoping to see some pics of the project ongoing and finished sir.

    • Like 1
  5.  

     

    The wiring diagram posted earlier suggests they are wired separately. If not for that, I would have thought they were wired together just because they are in the same door. The 6x9 speakers in the gen 1 Edges are effectively a component 5 1/4 woofer and a tweeter packaged together. We'll see.

     

    I'm way on the fence on what to get. For tweeters, Crutchfield says you have to glue them in place, something I'd rather not do. I need to hunt around for a detailed description/photo of just how these tweeters are actually mounted. Someone posted that the tweeters from a Focal component set popped right into place, which would be ideal, but at $350 for that set, it's a bit more than I care to spend. I'm looking to spend about $200 per set. The other big problem with a component set is the tweeter... going by the dimensions of the Focal set that are supposed to be a perfect fit @ 1.79" cutout diameter, then most of the sets I've looked at have tweeters that are too big to fit in the space. Those that have the same or smaller diameter have a deeper surface mount depth. Custom mounting something that's oversized is out of the question... my wife will flip her shit if this is anything more than a simple swap-out. Going by Crutchfield's buying guide, here's what I'm considering:

     

    Center dash: Infinity Reference REF-3022cfx. This is the only set Crutchfield has listed as fitting, but that's a-ok. I expect it'd have been a top choice anyway.

    Tweeters, front and rear doors: Infinity Reference REF-275tx. These have a flexible mounting system and may work well here. I trust they'll better complement the dash speaker than my alternates, which are: Alpine SPS-110TW and Kicker KST20.

    Rear doors, lower: Polk Audio DXi6501. The tweeters likely aren't going to fit but the woofer should be a good match for what the factory amp puts out.

    Front doors, lower: Rockford Fosgate PPS4-6. This is a midrange speaker, not a woofer, but I'm thinking I'll let the rears and sub in the back handle the bass and have dedicated midranges up front. It might not be necessary if the dash speaker works out well though, in which case I'll do the same Polk Audios as the

     

    im curious to see where the tweeters mount in the doors. in my gen 1 they are in the pillars and i was able to find tweeters that literally pushed in like they were designed to be there.and you are correct about the wiring in the gen 1. i my factory adio was one channel to the door that ran both 5x7 and tweeter.however they were both crossed at the same frequency from the head unit. post a couple pics of the factory tweeter pod will ya?

     

  6. Actually, they did introduce a "Sport" model in 2009. Strange, huh? Really mostly in non-powertrain updates, unlike 2011+

     

    Sport Includes all the standard Edge SEL features, plus:

    • 20" premium painted-aluminum wheels

    (shown above with optional 22" wheels)

    • Unique front and lower fascias

    • Body-color door cladding and side-skirt

    rocker molding

    • Unique headlamp and taillamp blackout

    treatment

    • 31/2" bright exhaust tips

    • “SPORT” badge

    • Contrast stitching on leather-wrapped shift

    knob and steering wheel

    • Leather-trimmed seats with Alcantara®

    suede inserts

    • Unique dark brushed finish on centerstack

    panel

    • Ford SYNC

     

    In addition:

    Sport Premium Package

    Dual-zone Electronic Automatic Temperature Control with

    particulate air filter, Universal Garage Door Opener, security

    approach lamps, heated front seats and sideview mirrors with

    memory, 6-way power fold-flat front-passenger seat and power

    liftgate (Available on Sport)

     

    No towing pkg available on Spor

     

    good to know Mano!! i am practicing being wrong...im getting REALLY good.

    • Like 2
  7.  

     

    Agreed on all counts. I hadn't thought of simply disconnecting the lower speaker to test and verify the wiring to the upper one... thanks for the tip!

    I highly doubt the 2 doors speakers are component. It is my assumption they are wired seperatly on their own channel. But I have been wrong before :-). Either way it will be simple to install your component speakers using the crossover. What components are you looking at buying, or have u already purchased?

  8. Hey guys, I have a couple questions. I want to upgrade just the speakers in my wife's 2017 Edge. I already have one ordered for the dash, but I'm not sure how to proceed with the doors. Right now, if I'm not mistaken, the factory door speakers consist of a 6.5" woofer-only in the lower part of each door and a tweeter up high. The question at hand is whether or not the factory audio system is pre-filtering out the highs for the lower speakers, and the lows for the upper tweeters. If it does do this, then the install is as simple as putting in better drivers. I could buy a component set and just not utilize the external crossover that these come with.

     

    If the system does NOT filter the highs/lows appropriately for each driver (which perhaps could partly explain why the factory sound quality is so poor?), then the question is how would I utilize the crossover that comes with the component speaker sets with the factory speaker wiring. If I'm interpreting the wiring diagrams provided earlier correctly, then each driver in each door is fed its signal separately from the DSP. Using the crossover that comes with these component speaker sets would require a bit of re-wiring of the speakers, something that I don't want to get that deep into. Alternatively, I could put a regular 6.5" 2-way speaker in the lower door and a separate tweeter up high. This would be the most practical solution if the system is not filtering out the highs for the lower speaker, though I'd need to do something to filter out the lows to the tweeter up top.

     

    Any thoughts here?

     

    First , what trim package is your gen2?

    If you currently have a seperate mid range speaker in the door and a tweeter in the pillar I would absolutely utilize the crossover from a quality set of component speakers. Depending on your factory system more than likely your headunit is acting crossover

  9. Sounds like it errored because your pcm was flashed possibly by the dealer while a custom file was resident. Therefore your stock file was lost.sct customer service is great! Call them during normal business hrs and they will help you with a file to flash back to stock.

    • Like 1
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