fit1446

Cost?

where do u live? ill check shipping cost

150 and you pay for shipping

dont know your city but rough cost to TN from Phx fed ex ground is about 45.00

Does anyone know what this is? I found it under the center console on driver side between the console side panel and the shifter base

No it doesn't need programming. 300

i also have this for sale as well..

What about changing the leds? Did u notice if they are actually green, or are they clear behind a colored overlay?

So basically a nav unit is only useful to someone who already has one from the factory but maybe it went bad?

idk that for sure...but i believe uf u have the sync box it will control the nav. only thing is do you have the antenna? it is on the rear spoiler

Send me a pic of your head unit golf1446@yahoo.com

I knw it will plug.. I'm 50/50 weather nav would work. Do u have a square gps antenna on the rear spoiler?

You r correct and that is specifically why I installed.. Astetichs .

Fluid was new. And yes I knw these are not top of the line rotors, however if they wear and I notice stress at the drill points I will simply replace. But I seriously doubt that under the conditions that my car is driven( which on a daily basis consists of a 5 min drive to the gym and back) that these rotors are going to fail. My car is driven maybe 75 miles a week. These rotors were purchased primarily on an aesthetic basis as I don't want to see a rusty rotor through my wheels. And as far as slotted and drilled rotors being less effective than ones that are not... Is absolutely not true. It all depends on material and wether they were drilled and cut from blanks. Honestly , I am at the point where I believe it IS just the different feel of new material. And as far as cost , I payed right at 400 for rotors and pads. And they definitely stop as I bedded them well. I don't believe I went cheap on brakes but also didn't purchase the top dollar rotors to go racing. I am very conscious of the condition of my edge and if issues arise with these rotors I will just change them.i also like the zinc coating,which will probably wear off over time in the areas that come in contact with the pads.i guess i more started this thread to see if anyone had ever dealt with the different feel of new material vs the oem components.i rebled last night using a vacuum bleeder and no real difference. i guess its just a feel thing,as the breaks work great just a much different feel.

Slots increase brake pads bite - Stock rotors do not. Note: The misconception out there is that slotted rotor will heat up because of the added bite and the rotors will over heat. Yes this is true under repetitive use such as on a racetrack or slowing down a heavy load down a steep hill, and the rotors do not have enough time to dissipate the heat. You need heat for the brake pads to work. The problem is, when there is too much heat, the increased bite provided by the slots will raise the brake pad temperature slowing down the vehicle sooner, thus you don't need to be on the brakes as long.\

Holes and slots eject water and prevent Brake Pad hydroplaning - Stock rotor can hydroplane in bad weather.

Holes and slots vent gas during brake fade - Stock rotors will fade if the brake pads out-gas.

Drilled rotors are lighter - No real advantage over a stock rotor on a road vehicle.

Drilled rotors are more prone to crack - Well Stock Rotor can crack too if exposed to excessive thermal shock (Fast Heating and Cooling). if the rotors are chamfered at the holes it helps to relieve the stress caused at the edge when heated thus preventing cracking at these areas

i coppied and pasted this as im off to work and low on time but,everyone has opinions about what is right and wrong.however i too care about safety and if i believed that these would compromise not even so much my safety but others more importantly i would not have installed them/.

no the fluid level never went low..again,im back to the fact that the pedal felt shitty before i bled...there should have been no reason to bleed brakes,but i did just because it feels like a pedal with air in the lines. but changing rotors and pads should not require bleeding..it should be a simple pedal pump to get pistons back in the correct position...idk im beginning to think im just crazy...

Yes, I did complete inspection of lines and they are all in good condition and routed exactly as they were. I'm going to isolate master cylinder as I believe this is the issue. Ty for the tips I appreciate your input:-)

congrats on the new edge cat123...welcome. im sure you wont be looking at any of my topics as us gen 1 owners are working on things you wont think about forn years...lol but still ,welcome and enjoy the new ride!

looking for reviews that someone else has dealt with this issue with these rotors and pads but not finding any negative really.which leads me back to the thought that there is an issue....guess i need to isolate the master cylinder next. then move onto hcu,problem is to diagnose that unit i believe i need a diagnostic tool of some sort.

So I installed rear rotors /pads went to an empty parking lot large enough to get to 45mph and seated these pads. Did set of 4 at 45mph hard brake but just short of abs engage not to complete stop. Parked for 10 min and repeat 4 times. I have brakes it's just a very different pedal than my oem pads. I researched this issue quite a bit and I'm not really sure there is a problem. There seems to be a large difference in feel between ceramic pads and oem pads. I am just used to a very short pedal and now it is about 3 times the distance which when we're talking about a total distance of what, maybe 7 inches? Is quite a bit. Here are the rotors and pads I installed

http://m.ebay.com/itm/110994632116?_mwBanner=1

i thought that maybe i did something to the hcu when i seated the pads... 35mph hard brake but no complete stop- 45 mph hard brake but no stop,65 mph hard brake no stop...and then reverse order. but the pedal felt different emmediately upon completion of swap. before i even drove anywhere

Classic master cylinder or air in system symptoms. Did you bleed the system in order: RH rear, LH rear, RH front, LH front? If the brake fluid has never been flushed, it might be dirty, and cause similar symptoms as well IME.

no i went LF RF LR RR.....but what i dont understand is how air would even be introduced. i only changed rotors and pads..never had any brake lines open. i should have been able to simply pump 8-12 times and pedal should be back. the brakes work just a totally different pedal. feels mooshy.which normally is more of an oem pad not ceramic . i still have the oem pads and rotors on the rear. i guess im going to swap those and see if anything changes. i just dont see how air would be in the lines? i pulled the wheels back off on the front just now and i dont see anyvisible leaks and i literally bled a whole bottle of fluid always keeping resevoir full and i had straight fluid coming out.

so i did a simple install of new rotors and pads. i was sure to hang the calipers so not to stress the brake lines. after install i lost my pedal. should be no reason for that. it still has brakes just steady pressure and pedal slowly goes to the floor. i did bleed brakes although there should have been no reason for it. didnt see any visual sign of leak but am getting ready to pull the wheels off and thoroughly inspect..any other ideas?

oh,and only did front rotors ..i have new for the rear as well just havnt done them yet.need to figure out this issue first

hahaha...i posted a diagram and removal instructions but it didnt post...sry bout that

N0060049_580 cruise control.pdf

no i am pretty sure they are right..the oem is in his 15 on the top and the bottom with the sharp cut off is the retro he built.i believe

actually that retro cut off is crazy...

Are the Cruze switches on the left in a group of 4. I have the replacement switch and it looks like it would just pull out but there is a small brass threaded grommet on the top and bottom that look like it could possibly be secured with a little screw

Did this from my phone.. If you need pictures I have them. Nick I know this doesn't help you.

Bronco, tell me exactly what you need to see and I'll paste it here. Be specific and I'll get the info from my service manual. Not sure what year you have but this manual is for 2010

yea there is a whole other box that is used to control sync,nav and steering wheel controls. not to mention you dont have a factory michrophone or any of that stuff. you just need to go buy a double din head unit w nav...

then it def will not work. u r better off just buying a headunit w nav..

so u dont have sync now?